Needing direction...

[Polarfire]

ChiefWaho makes heavy duty rear cross members and frame plates that would work perfect for you.

 

[cattleman1977]

Thanks Polarfire. I'll PM him soon... I'm only a couple hours away from him so it'd be easy to pick up and possibly even haul the frame along to make sure I get it right.

Happy Independence Day everyone!

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

Be careful lifting the tub from the very front and rear like that. The tubs easily bend in the door section, even slightly, and can cause major fitment issues down the road.

I fabbed up some quick easy braces that use factory holes.

 

[cattleman1977]

Here are the problems that need addressing before I can blast and paint.

Rear cross member:




Cross member over rear axle:




Engine mount on right frame rail:

 

[cattleman1977]

As far as the body goes I need to replace all four corners where rollbar attaches. I also need to replace the following structural rails.

Support rail under tailgate.


Rail over rear axle:


Stiffener under drivers floor pan:



Not sure if I'm going to replace or repair floor pans:






I'm also undecided on the bed. Aside from some warping I only have a couple pin holes to deal with:


I'm more concerned about the additional time than the expense; the floor pans and bed floor are pretty reasonably priced through Classic Enterprises. I'm just wanting to start going back together so I can use it...

 

[wm69]

Not anything to add, other than I'm enjoying watching your project......thanks for the pics.

 

[John N]

Jason/ChiefWahoo has the best replacement rear crossmember, is 3/16" thick. It can be used for the crossmember forward of the gas tank, too, if you cut it down a bit, that's pretty much how Jeep made them.

 

[jammer1]

Do you have a sand blaster. If you had one at your shop I would remove the damaged pieces (rear cross member on frame, structural braces on bottom of tub). Then sandblast that way you get it cleaned really good in the sections a normal sand blast doesn't get. The same as blast inside the frame rails (where cross member was removed). If your going to take these pieces off anyway may as well get the best bang for the buck. Doing good job, don't do short cuts to get it on the road faster. Believe me I know the feeling of wanting it done so I can have fun with it.

 

[cattleman1977]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I've contacted Chiefwaho and will get the rear cross member from him. The rest I'm going to order from Classic. After adding up prices of everything I'll need from them I think I'm going to wait to see what sandblasting shows before I replace the bed. It's $495 plus 10% shipping plus $95 freight surcharge...

I know a guy here locally that has a big sandblasting tank and he said I could borrow it. I have a compressor big enough it should run it but have never done it before. Not sure where to get media either but I'm seriously considering it, at least on the frame. It can't be too difficult. Worst that could happen is I give up and still find someone to do it. I agree with your advice jammer1.

I managed to get brake/fuel lines, shocks, and steering box removed this evening so there is not much left on the frame. Just need to make a couple repairs and then I can blast/paint. After that the exciting part (going back together) can begin!

By the way, my steering box is an AGR brand. It doesn't appear factory to me. Is this a good brand or not? Originally I thought it was leaking but now I'm pretty sure it was just the old PS lines. I'll post a pic tomorrow.



Sent from my iPad

 

[jammer1]

AGR is a aftermarket box. If I remember correctly they make two different boxes, one is a tighter feel, the other is a variable ratio gearing. From what I've heard they are a good box.

 

[wm69]

They make a Superbox and Superbox 2. Not sure how to tell which one you have, but they used to make good stuff. Supposedly their quality control went downhill in the 2000's. I have one I bought in 2002 on my tan CJ and haven't had any problems at all out of it. Steers easier than the stock box did.

Probably going to put an H1 box on my green CJ if/when I replace it. Has variable ratio like the Superbox 2, is cheaper, and has a bigger piston.

 

[cattleman1977]

Not sure which one I have. I need to clean it up and see if it has any numbers. I didn't find any today though. Here's a couple photos.





Had very little time to work on things today. Managed to get shock towers and motor mounts removed. Got cross member removed and new one ordered from CHIEFWAHO. Had to learn how to use PayPal...

Also was able to repair crossmember forward of the fuel tank. I need to clean it up a bit but it didn't turn out to bad. The old welds and alignment were terrible.

Right side before:

 

[cattleman1977]

Crap, bumped the reply button. Anyway...

Right side after:


Left before:


After:


Also need to cut out rear of right rail and repair:


Also, here is the stamping on the frame. Not sure that it means anything.



Not sure that if this will benefit anyone but I'll need it later so I'll post it here in case it will help anyone. This is a video of the frame before I removed all brake/fuel line so that I would know where the clips go upon reassembly.

https://vimeo.com/132981908

 

[CHIEFWAHO]

Those #'s should match #'s on your VIN. If all original.

 

[cattleman1977]

Good to know. I'll check it out.

Didn't have much time to work on things today and won't until sometime next week but I did manage to get the rear end of my frame repaired.







I did both sides while I was at it.



The left rail didn't look bad but turned out to be pretty thin as well.

Someone did a patch job on the left frame rail at some point.





Exhaust hanger and spring hanger have both been welded to a patch. Since there is no damage to the body in this area in guessing they were repairing a crack in the frame but can't be sure. Not sure whether I should live with it or tear it down and fix it right. I probably should just do it right but it will be fairly time consuming. Any thoughts?

 

[Craner8]

If your goal is a driver, I'd consider grinding it down all around, verify it's done right and if so, leave it. May be stronger than original. Doesn't look bad. Appears to be one rust hole in the bracket to address. Curious what frame looks like below patch, though. Other repairs look good. Have fun.

 

[mhinchliffe]

Repairs look nice! Good work. Thx for the brake and fuel line video, that will help immensely.
Looks that you have a well equipped and stocked farm shop to work on it. Take your time and these guys on here will do all they can to help you successfully repair and restore your 8 👍

 

[cattleman1977]

I have quite a few holes drilled in my rollbar. They should be pretty easy to weld shut.

Aside from the seat belts, side rails, and the spare tire mounts on the drivers side are there any other holes that are factory?

 

[cattleman1977]

https://www.cj-8.com/forum/showpost.php?p=346857

This post got me to looking on mine and here is what I found.

My title says '83 and I assume that is correct but August '82 seems a little early in the year for '83 production. Does anyone know when amc switched from '82 to '83 production?

Also, I can't find the tag that would have the paint code anywhere. I think I'm overlooking it somewhere since my 8 is totally torn apart. Where should it have been located.


Sent from my iPad

 

[mssldn]

The end of your VIN should be "DT003136" (if I can read the stamped numbers right). The "D" is the model year. I don't know when they switch over production. 83 is D, 82 is C, and 84 is E.

The paint code it on a tag on the firewall, on the driver's side under the hole for the wiring.