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Never Ending Scrambler Build

Another easy day, went out and bought another allen pack so I can pull the knob off the wiper switch. Installed the delay wiper switch. Went to remount the mirrors. This time I drilled and tapped the windshield hinge for the third bolt. Then painted the bolt head.
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While waiting for more parts to come in started cleaning parts to sell. Between this and starting the remodeling of the bathroom might keep me busy for a few weeks. The ceramic polish seems to do a good job on the header. Cleaned up the cap pretty good just a little too much pitting. Might see if I can find a shop that can re-chrome the caps.
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Installing the tie rod flip kit. Ream out the knuckle so the insert fit from the bottom. Reaming took a little time, went from looking like it needed a lot removed to being where it should be in 3/4 of a turn. I probably could have removed a little more but didn't want the chance of removing too much and having to drill out for other inserts.20160227_102932_resized.jpg20160227_103303_resized.jpg20160227_103321_resized.jpg20160227_103736_resized.jpg20160227_105012_resized.jpg20160227_131222_resized.jpg. Worked pretty good, this should help with the drag link angle. Also greased the tie rods (before I forget).
 
Installed the cable for the heater coolant control valve and another cable for the manual choke (for what ever engine I decide to use). On a carb I would rather have a manual choke than the electric ones.20160227_131130_resized.jpg20160227_131153_resized.jpg unfortunately this will probably be it till I decide on a motor and get the funds together to either get the 401 rebuilt or go with a Engine Factory 350 like I did on the cj7. Only other issue I could try to figure out is the brake pedal which you push down with about 1/2" play than 1/2" of brake and it's solid (can't push down). You can push the pedal down (1") and if you try to spin the tire the brakes are applied. This is with the power booster and no vacuum, linkage is not locked.
 
Decided to pull the aluminum entry guards off the cj7 and mounted on the cj8. Went to pull the antenna off the original tub to install on the new cj8 and found it's too pitted to mount now. I need to find out what everyone is using. Would also like to see if they make a aftermarket antenna like the stock one.20160304_131024_resized.jpg20160304_131038_resized.jpg20160304_132647_resized.jpg20160304_123946_resized.jpg
 
Sandblasted the minor rust off some side steps. Sprayed the steps with ospho and kept wet overnight to finish any rust that couldn't be gotten by the blasting.20160307_183017_resized_1.jpg20160305_114508_resized_2.jpg20160305_162301_resized_2.jpg20160305_115419_resized_1.jpg
 
20160305_155950_resized_1.jpg20160305_161844_resized_1.jpgAlso stripped the paint off a power booster bracket I have. Going to switch the bracket that came with the M/C and booster.
 
First coat epoxy primer/filler primer. Sanded and ready for another coat of primer.20160309_151810_resized_1.jpg20160309_161931_resized_1.jpg
 
Was having problems with brakes. I have 3/4" freeplay then about 3/8" and the petal is hard and if you rotate the tire and hit the brake it locks up the tires. I've changed the mounting bracket to the style that the booster rod runs directly to the brake pedal (which cut some of the slack and gives me about 3/4" brake pedal). Need to order a coupling nut Current setup about 3/4" short. Release the pedal and wheels turn fine (rears have minor drag that I always adjust into new brakes to wear shoes in). Hooked up hose from the cj7 (power booster line) to the power booster on the cj8 and no difference with pedal travel or effort. Anyone have any ideas if the MC is bad or if the booster is bad. Never had this happen before?20160313_124714_resized.jpg The one that came with MC setup
20160305_161844_resized_1.jpg The one I painted and replaced it with. One rod helps to remove any additional problems. I used this bracket with the cj7 vanco MC setup and had a normal pedal. Did notice cj7 rod moves into booster approx 1/2" and the cj8 (with original bracket) only moves about 1/4" (after freeplay was removed) looking from inside cab at the fire wall hole.
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Talked with my mechanic, said mc may have a obstruction in the booster not allowing a full stroke but enough to allow the brakes to stop the tires. May also not allow enough for booster to work properly. Say's he's come across some mc with that problem. Decided to get the mc/booster that Randy's had success with. Ordered it last night and was at the shops door later this morning. Also decided to paint the mc like I did with the other new setup.20160315_141233_resized.jpg20160315_153017_resized.jpg
 
Loosened up the bolts holding the MC to the booster to the point that they were just on and slid the MC away from the booster. The pedal after freeplay can travel 2 to 2 1/2". Booster not causing the restriction. Pulled the MC off then the booster. Installed the new booster and hooked up the clevis and found the booster needs to be shimmed like the other set up. New booster studs required drilling out the mounting bracket and shims (I made for the other setup) to 7/16. Hooked up the booster and shims to bracket. Installed the MC and bleed the system. Pedal now has the close to the travel as the cj7 set up I have. Glad the brakes are like they should be. Since I don't have the engine or battery hooked up I never checked to see if I have all the air out of the system (pedal feels good but with no vacuum or power can't swear I have all the air out), We'll see what it looks like after I get a engine. Still don't know why in the he** the pedal only had half the travel it should have and came to a stop (as if it had a physical, mechanical stop).
Just relieved theirs progress.:bacon:
Old one was harder to push MC cylinder in but pushed in fine. Also cut anti-slip tape and installed on steps.
 

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Nice! I need to find a set of those steps at some point.
 
Randy thanks on the compliment but more so on your brake writeup. Bought the first setup on ebay and didn't get set up for a year. Their's something wrong with the setup. I usually use vanco (he stopped making the booster setup) so I needed a good referral. Haven't put a vacuum on the booster or power for brake light (worry about that when engine is in) but got good pedal with your mc/booster set up. Thanks for the direction.
 
jammer1 said:
Randy thanks on the compliment but more so on your brake writeup. Bought the first setup on ebay and didn't get set up for a year. Their's something wrong with the setup. I usually use vanco (he stopped making the booster setup) so I needed a good referral. Haven't put a vacuum on the booster or power for brake light (worry about that when engine is in) but got good pedal with your mc/booster set up. Thanks for the direction.
Click to expand...


:thumbsup:

mysunnshine- Just one good set...although I won't be needing them for awhile.
 
Got some aluminum diamond plate to use on the dash (for the flaming river steering column). Used the one off the cj7 (last project I built, used same column). Just need to decide if I'm going to paint gloss black or leave polished aluminum.
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Here's the pieces installed.
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I need to decide to leave polished aluminum (complements the steering wheel) or paint gloss black (might be too much black, steering column could get lost in the diamond plate cover). The windshield frame and hood hinges are powder coated black, along with most hardware. Right now leaning toward leaving it polished.
 
Getting bored so decided to mount the bulkhead. When I pulled the bulkhead out I found when I painted the body I got a fine coat (dust coat) of white paint on the bulkhead. Also noticed where I was a little shy on the bed liner (bottom edge had a few specks of surface rust). Sanded the specks, shot with Ospho and let sit a few hours. Re-shot and washed acid off, let dry and painted epoxy primer on base of bulkhead. Sanded bulkhead and shot another coat of bed liner. Ready to install.20160409_124421_resized.jpg20160409_134052_resized.jpg20160409_134059_resized.jpg
 
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