O.T. Jeep CJ-10a conversion project

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Supersized...now with 34" Swampers. The front lift shackles still aren't installed yet, so that'll give a little more clearance in the front, too.

Craig

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

The NP-208 transfer case and front lift shackles are now installed. I also replaced a couple broken wheel studs on the rear axle. I still have to make the extension (~4") for the NP-208, but that should go pretty quickly.

Craig

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I finished up the modifications to the transfer case shift linkage tonight, so I now have a smooth-shifting t-case. I also verified the measurements on the rear axle install, so it's just a matter of setting the pinion angle.

Craig

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I just talked with the guys from JCR Offroad (a highly-regarded local offroad shop), and they're going to do the following for me probably within the next couple weeks:

• Double-check all measurements & suspension setup (currently tack-welded).
• Finish weld spring hangers & shackle hangers, and gusset where needed.
• Set rear axle pinion angle & weld on spring perches.
• Weld up the rear diff ("Lincoln Locker").

They're also willing to pick up & deliver the tug just for the cost of gas...very cool!

I'm planning on driving this '10a down to Windrock, and it's looking pretty realistic that it'll be ready by then (with some time to test-drive it around town for a while before making the long trip to Tennessee).

Craig

 

[bigwalton]

Excellent Craig, can't wait to see it at Windrock.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Doors are reinstalled, and a set of rollers have been installed to get it ready for pick-up by JCR (bolt patterns front-to-rear won't match until I get my front axle installed). You can also see the 1" lift shackes that I got from BJs Offroad.

I'm also going to start searching for a 1/4-ton Jeep trailer (bed) as an option for a bed for the '10a. I think it would look pretty sweet, and would be a nice integrated look with the rest of the Jeep. I'm just not sure how hard it will be to find one (I'm not afraid to drive for the right deal, though). The M-416 trailer has a removable bed, but it would probably have to be shortened a little to fit on the back of the '10a.

Opinions?

Craig

 

[Truck]

Craig,

I've heard the Canada version of these has been selling a lot up there lately. I saw a couple of folks on a board (don't remember which ) talking about going up and getting a load of them. I don't know where they were getting them from, but it is an idea to look into. I will look around and see if I can find where I saw this.

Truck

 

[Truck]

Craig, I couldn't find the thread I was looking for, but this link might be helpful.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/M101CDN/

Truck

 

[CBRogers]

Craig,

I have a Vietnam Era one. The one with rectangular fenders. I can get measurements if you want. But bed size is about 4'x6'.

It might be cheeper to get one bent at a local metal shop. The sizes are pretty simple, and you can use 3/4" or 1" square tube for the top edge to make it really easy. Throw in a couple of beed rolls for stifness and you are done. You could also use Diamond plate for the floor of the bed to make it more durable.

Carl

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Craig,

I have a Vietnam Era one. The one with rectangular fenders. I can get measurements if you want. But bed size is about 4'x6'.

It might be cheeper to get one bent at a local metal shop. The sizes are pretty simple, and you can use 3/4" or 1" square tube for the top edge to make it really easy. Throw in a couple of beed rolls for stifness and you are done. You could also use Diamond plate for the floor of the bed to make it more durable.

Carl

That's a definite possiblity. A friend ~25 minutes from me has a Bantam trailer, which I understand is a little smaller than the M-416s. I just got an e-mail back from him about coming down and taking some measurements. My dad & brother are heating/cooling guys, and my dad has a big sheet metal break. I'm thinking the hand-built route would be a lot easier. Any guesses as to the gauge of sheet metal used on these trailers?

Craig

P.S. - Thanks for the input, Truck.

 

[CBRogers]

About the same as Jeep CJ body stuff. So I would imagine 16 ga.

If they have on eof those nice large pan breaks, then you should be golden.

Figure our the width and length that you need for the main floor and then go from there. For the fenders you can go to some place like Northern and get a set of squared trailer fenders. Or make you own like this.

It is one I found recently and you can scale the proportions from it. Also you could just about as easily make the entire bed from aluminum if you wanted.

Carl

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Thanks Carl. Click here to see my buddy's Bantam trailer. This is the one I'd take measurements from, although I'd build it custom to fit. I'd be more interested in how the panels were formed & joined than anything.

Craig

 

[CBRogers]

Yes that is a M101 I have the newer M416. There is also the New Canadian version, but that one hase more stuff on the sides.

If I think about it tomorrow I will take a few picks of the corner details. But I think that it is a 90 degree bend on the long side of the trailer with the shorter more detailed side flat cut and continuous welded up the side.

If your folks are HVAC guys. They can come up with a lock seam that would slide together pretty easily and then you could either epoxy it together or weld it. If you are using 14 or 16 guage steel. It should be pretty easy to mig weld the inside corner and make it look good.

I bet if they are in the HVAC industry that they might even be able to get you a deal on Stainless used in Kitchen hoods and then you never have to worry about rust.

Carl

 

[Scott_P]

Craig,
If you go the route w/your dad bending up a box for you.......maybe you could bend up 2? Let me know ......I'd like to replace the box on my little camping trailer (the one you saw at my house built to drag behind my Jeep)

I figured it can't hurt to ask!

Scott

 

[bigwalton]

Someone ought to talk to kohldad about this too, if there's going to be a group buy

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Craig,
If you go the route w/your dad bending up a box for you.......maybe you could bend up 2? Let me know ......I'd like to replace the box on my little camping trailer (the one you saw at my house built to drag behind my Jeep)

I figured it can't hurt to ask!

Scott

Based on the M-416 prices I'm seeing ($900-1000 for a couple I have found in Michigan ), I think that building my own makes the most sense. Having a Bantam close by helps, as I check it out in person and see exactly how it was built. The only limitation I can think of is finding someone with a bead roller. I'm not sure if my dad/brother know of someone with one or not.

I'll let you know, Scott. It's looking like my bed will be roughly 46" long and 40" wide at the base. Would this ballpark size work for you?

Craig

 

[Scott_P]

I'll let you know, Scott. It's looking like my bed will be roughly 46" long and 40" wide at the base. Would this ballpark size work for you?

Craig

I'll measure what my current box is this weekend. Width is probably close, but I would want a little more length...maybe 60", but I'll let you know.

I could do the welding to contirbute.....

Not sure if anyone else remembers, but at one one time 4WD hardware was prototyping a fiberglass trailer box based on the CJ body. Not sure whatever came of it....

 

[Jeepskate]

That's a definite possiblity. A friend ~25 minutes from me has a Bantam trailer, which I understand is a little smaller than the M-416s. I just got an e-mail back from him about coming down and taking some measurements. My dad & brother are heating/cooling guys, and my dad has a big sheet metal break. I'm thinking the hand-built route would be a lot easier. Any guesses as to the gauge of sheet metal used on these trailers?

Craig

P.S. - Thanks for the input, Truck.

Correct. The Bantam (TC-3 I believe it is), M100 and Canadian M101 are the same size, M416 is slightly larger and has a bolt-on bed. I beleive the M101 is bolt-on also...basically took an M100, added the 416 improvements, then added a few more improvements of their own. They aren't cheap, so it's probably cheaper to roll-your-own bed...decent one will run you in the $900+ range. I paid about $400 for mine, but it's a bit rough and I'll probably end up dumping another $400 in it to make it nice.

 

[ryankopecki]

Jeep body panels are thinner than 16 ga. 16 is what I made the rear quarter panels for mine out of. I think stock is 20 ga. If the brake can handle 16 ga I'd go with that. If not, 18 or 20 ga should be fine.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Pics from JCR Offroad. The rear crossmember/bumper still needs to be built, and the rear portion of the frame (up to the new shock mounts) will be boxed.

These guys do nice work!

Craig