Pitman arm and tie rod making contact

[Randyzzz]

Was looking for a pic so I didn't have to take one... one of the first I came across.

 

[John N]

Well, mine with the Astro arm and the box moved forward 1.25" still binds on the tie rod on compression. I haven't succeeded at curing it. It drives great, the turn radius is great...it just stinks when I'm Off road and the steering binds up because of this.

 

[CJ8LVR]

Well, mine with the Astro arm and the box moved forward 1.25" still binds on the tie rod on compression. I haven't succeeded at curing it. It drives great, the turn radius is great...it just stinks when I'm Off road and the steering binds up because of this.

John, here's a resurrection of a real old thread. I've just gone through some tidying up of my system and wondered if you ever got this sorted out. I'm running that same MORE bracket now for a PSC gearbox (moved it forward 1.25") and I'm running a stock (flat) CJ Pitman arm and as far as I can tell, no contact with my Big Daddy Offroad tie rod with that TRE on the bottom of the CJ pitman arm. TR and DL both on top of my stock Dana 30 widetrack axle. I used OK4WD tapered sleeves in the knuckles and reamed them to match that taper.

 

[John N]

John, here's a resurrection of a real old thread. I've just gone through some tidying up of my system and wondered if you ever got this sorted out. I'm running that same MORE bracket now for a PSC gearbox (moved it forward 1.25") and I'm running a stock (flat) CJ Pitman arm and as far as I can tell, no contact with my Big Daddy Offroad tie rod with that TRE on the bottom of the CJ pitman arm. TR and DL both on top of my stock Dana 30 widetrack axle. I used OK4WD tapered sleeves in the knuckles and reamed them to match that taper.

Nope, never got it better. I stopped trying, pretty much. When it happens, I just back up a little and take another shot at the obstacle.

 

[bigwalton]

Nope, never got it better. I stopped trying, pretty much. When it happens, I just back up a little and take another shot at the obstacle.

I ground a little on mine and have let my setup “self clearance” beyond that. I’ve talked to a couple places about what I could realistically do and it gets complicated and expensive fast. I would like to try a shorter pitman since I have the knuckle stops turned out anyway, I could give up a touch of throw.

 

[John N]

I ground a little on mine and have let my setup “self clearance” beyond that. I’ve talked to a couple places about what I could realistically do and it gets complicated and expensive fast. I would like to try a shorter pitman since I have the knuckle stops turned out anyway, I could give up a touch of throw.

Pretty much the same. I’m just living with it.

 

[Jeeper_4_Life]

Can you swap to Dana44 outer knuckles and run high steer arms or arm (just do passenger side for drag link). I thought the c's were the same on a Dana 30 and Dana 44 like from GM or Wagoneer? This probably means different stub shafts as well. I am probably completely wrong because if it worked you would probably see more swapped like that.

With JK's & JL's they are all running an offset tired end now. Parts Mike sells those. Perhaps you could run one of those and shift the tie rod in or out depending where you need clearance.

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/categories/tie-rod-draglink
They have several different ones. Most are 1 ton size ends which would require reaming the taper to fit?

Y-Link steering is another option. Crossover is better really, but Y-link could help.

Just thoughts that may help, but probably won't.

 

[John N]

Can you swap to Dana44 outer knuckles and run high steer arms or arm (just do passenger side for drag link). I thought the c's were the same on a Dana 30 and Dana 44 like from GM or Wagoneer? This probably means different stub shafts as well. I am probably completely wrong because if it worked you would probably see more swapped like that.

With JK's & JL's they are all running an offset tired end now. Parts Mike sells those. Perhaps you could run one of those and shift the tie rod in or out depending where you need clearance.

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/categories/tie-rod-draglink
They have several different ones. Most are 1 ton size ends which would require reaming the taper to fit?

Y-Link steering is another option. Crossover is better really, but Y-link could help.

Just thoughts that may help, but probably won't.

I am running a full 44 front, outters, brakes, internal spline hubs and a high steer arm on the passenger side for the drag link. No 30 stuff. The steering box is already moved forward with a Ruff Stuff box mount. It only binds when off road in rare situations when really twisted up.