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Postal going 4.0/AW4

Way to go Eric.
I haven't been on here much to follow your install or I would have cought your bolt shortage. I found the canister of all the bolts from the 4.0 I saved for you sitting on the front bumper of MrBeep. Things got a little hectic before I left for work and didn't think to set them in your trailer. If you need them, I can ship it to you. Sorry for the inconvieance my friend. :o
I also left the tranny shifter cable somewhere after going through the trouble of pulling it out ;) I looked at it last night though, and I think I can make something that works using my stock shifter. The throw is in the right direction and the position of things looks pretty close to being able to make it work.

I didn't figure it would be much to replace the bolts that I actually needed. Probably less trouble than sorting through all of the ones in the bin to just go buy new if it's something I didn't have already :D No worries Toby!
 
Way to Go Eric,

You have twice the space between the fan and the idler pulley (without spacer) than I have. As the engine speeds up the fan blades will pull away from the pulley.

Don
I probably wouldn't have bothered except that there was so much space between the fan and radiator when I test fit it that I figured getting it a little farther forward couldn't hurt.

I just don't like tight tolerances on non-precision moving parts :eek: :D
 
Picked up the Mallory fuel pressure regulator that I should have gotten in the first place. Haven't had time to install it yet. Heading out of town this weekend and won't get back on it until next week.

Wanted to write out a list of what's left to try and think this all through.

Here's what's not hooked up on the electrical/wiring side:
-diagnostic port: have wires IDed in harness, just need to locate it and wire it in

-MIL light: this will be fun. needs to come out of the circuitboards from the back of the gauge cluster... details in different threads on cjoffroad.com, need more research. since I don't have emissions, may not want to bother.

-O2 sensors: when exhaust goes in. debating on #2, don't want to spend on a catalytic converter.

-fuel level sensor wire: 100 ohm resistor will give needed signal to computer, may trip an occasional code for not using enough gas to travel some given distance, I don't care about that as long as it's not constant and it shouldn't be. I was wondering about a way to wire up a circuit that would decrease resistance over time in the range that the sensor looks for... seems like it could be done but I just don't care enough to try.

-battery temp sensor wire: another 100 ohm resistor to fool the computer, simple)

-tachometer: think I just have to splice into the coil + wire

-VSS- need to install Hesco 2-wire connector on the stock 3-wire setup, need research, connect to Hesco VSS/spedo unit

-voltmeter: it seems to be reading, but there was a wire that went to the alternator plug that's an odd single-strand black wire that I thought was the feed to the alternator... its currently not connected. Need to look that dealio up to see what needs to happen there. (anyone know?)

-OBA: last on the list, need to source a tank cheap anyway, have relay feed pulled to hook to switch and was planning on reusing stock high pressure switch.

-I have a few wires that I IDed from the FSM and kept, but I don't know their function or how it relates to the computer running. Need to find out about those and thin/connect as needed.

Mechanical things not hooked up or needed
-tcase/driveshafts, ready to bolt in, won't clock it at this time.

-fenders/grille/radiator/headlights/etc: need to locate computer, might be on top of driver's fender by the looks of things.

-fuel pressure regulator

-fill/burp coolant system

-plumb in tranny cooler lines

-bleed power steering

-reinstall and/or secure all vent fittings

-fab tranny shifter link: looks like something can be made to work off of my stock floor shifter :smokin: I really wanted to keep that unique feature of the postal

-twin stick install: FINALLY had all the parts made sitting on the shelf for a couple years

-reinstall winch

I think that's it. Major hurdle now is the exhaust. The rest I can just plug away at...

Hope this all is of some use to folks!
 
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-OBA: last on the list, need to source a tank cheap...

I found several options at a truck salvage yard. They had been part of an air brake system. Ended up using one about 8” in diameter by 24” long. Sits between the two rear cross members.

-fenders/grille/radiator/headlights/etc: need to locate computer, might be on top of driver's fender by the looks of things.

A little extra work, but on the LHD CJ8, there was an obscure place on the firewall below the harness connectors and above the canister where it fit. Mine started out on the RH inner fender but you don’t really need access to the ECU once you have it running.

Later, Ken
 
[

I found several options at a truck salvage yard. They had been part of an air brake system. Ended up using one about 8” in diameter by 24” long. Sits between the two rear cross members.

I've heard that trucks can be a good source of cheap tanks, I was definitely going to look at that option.

A little extra work, but on the LHD CJ8, there was an obscure place on the firewall below the harness connectors and above the canister where it fit. Mine started out on the RH inner fender but you don’t really need access to the ECU once you have it running.

That's where my battery is, there's no room on my passenger side firewall, only driver's side below the brake booster if I relocate/remove the washer bottle. I really want it up high/protected and I was thinking I could actually get it inside the cab if I opened one wiring harness hole to fit the plugs. Lots of places for the little tranny computer to go.

Thanks for the ideas Ken.
 
Hardwired the start and run/start feeds in, wired in resistors for the fuel level sensor and battery temp sensor. Mounted and plumbed in the purge solenoid/charcoal canister and extended the wires in the connector for it so it would reach where I mounted it under the battery tray next to the canister.

Looks like I'll be able to mount both the tranny computer and the PCM inside the tub, which will make the wiring for the data connector all inside the tub as well and makes the harness/wiring in the engine bay pretty clean. Need to clearance the opening in the firewall to fit the PCM connectors and figure out how to solidly mount the PCM, tranny computer will just bolt to the firewall. PCM will go up in the curve under the cowl behind where I have my Cobra CB box mounted.

Bed.
 
Got the computers mounted inside the tub up high on my driver's side and ran the harnesses in through an existing hole (after a little Dremel lovin') where the stock computer wiring ran originally, I cut a piece of rubber tube to put around the edges as a grommet and will wrap the wiring:

Hole:
firewall_hole-1.jpg


Tranny computer in:
TCM_mounted-1.jpg


Both computers bolted in with harnesses attached, looks like a rats nest. I also have the control box for my Cobra CB mounted in the same area, so that makes it that much worse.

computers_mounted-1.jpg


Harnesses run over the brake booster, will wrap them and tie them up later:
harnesses_run-1.jpg


Got the fenders on, bracing in, grille on (needs tightened up) and bumper installed:

front_end_reassembled-1.jpg


I just called Hesco because the new VSS and 2-wire connector I got to use in the conversion (to keep stock CJ speedo and also send VSS signal to computer) didn't have any instructions and cjoffroad is down (again). Benny was helpful after initially saying "look at the wiring diagram since the colors are all different between years". Obviously, I don't have any diagram for the new VSS, and that was the reason I called. After explaining I just needed to know the positions for the two wire functions that are left after eliminating the voltage feed, he hooked me up. Don't ask me why they don't send this info with the parts or at least post it on their site.

Here's the deal for the 3-wire to 2-wire conversion on the Hesco VSS:
-You eliminate the voltage feed wire to the VSS, the new one creates its own pulses.
-Hold the new connector so you're looking at the back of it (the side you'll be inserting the wire/pin into) with the tang/clip facing up:
-The ground wire goes in the right-hand position
-The signal wire will go in the left-hand side.

Stock 97XJ VSS plug with three wires:
stock_97XJ_VSS_plug-1.jpg


Hesco plug kit:
hesco_2wire_VSS_plug-1.jpg


Wired Hesco plug, ground on right, signal on left, removed the purple/orange tracer wire that was the supply voltage:
hesco_plug_wired-1.jpg
 
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Front end reassembled
PDC mounted (cut/bent/drilled the stock mounting feet and put it on driver's fender):

PDC_mounted-1.jpg


front_end_reassembled1-1.jpg


Many of the stock wiring tie-down spots were perfect for securing the harnesses.

Coolant filled, needs burped & topped off
Tranny cooler plumbed, needs topped off
Wired up the fuel pump power permanently
Changed out VSS plug to 2-wire
plumbed in vacuum for power brakes
reconnected ebrake switch

Found out I got the wrong fuel pressure regulator AGAIN! :banghead: apparently there's some false info out there, even at the part stores, that the 4309 regulator from Mallory can be set to work with higher pressures. It's a 3-12 PSI unit and it does come with a replacement plunger for a Mallory fuel pump that will allow it to be used at EFI pressure, but only when used with that specific pump.

So I'll return this one and I ordered the proper unit off eBay from Summit last night. The 4305M is the proper 30-100 PSI unit. My part store didn't have that one as available and called to check on the 4309, that's when they said it could be made to work, it can't. :angry:
 
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Tranny shifter fabbed, need to try it out more to see if I have it right.

Tcase mounted, have to shorten the rear driveshaft and lengthen the front, probably means the twin stick will have problems

Vent lines connected and secured

VSS/speedo cable installed

Winch installed

Air filter mount installed

Items left to drive (I think):
driveshaft shortening/lengthening
burp coolant
bleed power steering
top off tranny

Needed to finish things out:
fuel pressure regulator
tach hookup
water temp sensor
loose wire from CJ alternator plug
twin stick
MIL light
data port
 
Need to play with the shifter, P on the shifter is R on the tranny.

Other than the exhaust/O2 sensors and the driveshafts, it's ready to drive. Fired it up today to run for a while since it's got all the needed fluids and parts. Idles rough, but just off-idle it sounds GREAT! No leaks, no visible/audible problems! :D:D:D I was pretty stoked.

Burped the coolant, still need to top off the tranny fluid.

Found a couple driveshaft places ~30-40 minutes from here, of course none were open on Sat. I'll probably have to talk to them on the phone and then drop the driveshafts off in the evening to pick up the next night or something, because I can't make it to any of them during the day without taking time off work :banghead: I'd guess they're all 8-5 type shops.

Pressure regulator should be here Tues. I'll slap it in ASAP, plumbing is there for it already.

SOOO close...
 
Measured for driveshaft length tonight, thinking about getting up real early tomorrow to get to the driveshaft place as soon as it opens to drop them off and hopefully have them put them out somewhere I can get them tomorrow night after work... we'll see.

Going to call the shop in town about the exhaust tomorrow. Not decided about the cat and 2nd O2 sensor yet...

Ran it for a while today just to hear it run and filled up the tranny more. Have to let it settle, too hard to read the dipstick after adding fluid.
 
Great to hear Eric.

OT: Your packages are delivered! :D
 
Took the driveshafts to Ann Arbor Drive Shaft this morning. They're going to shorten the rear one and make up a spare out of a similar CV shaft I pulled off an XJ I parted. The difference between lengthening the stock front shaft and getting a larger diameter new shaft made up wasn't much, so I'll have a better front shaft out of all of this. Hopefully I'll be able to get them tomorrow evening. Oh, once I noticed the driveshaft issue, I went ahead and clocked the tcase up.

Got fuel pressure regulator #3 today and figured out how to mount it tonight. Need to get the right fittings for it, has an AN-8 fitting for the pump feed.

Next hurdle is the exhaust. Called a shop in Ann Arbor and they quoted $450... so I'm now thinking about other (cheaper) ways after having to do the driveshafts. Wondering how tough it would be to find the front/header pipe from an XJ to mate to the header and then getting a cat-back for a Scrambler and just mating up the two.
 
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Header pipe

I do still have the bent one here. Not sure how you could straighten it out , but I can ship it to you or possibly meet you next Tuesday on our way up to the dunes. I don't recomend using it the way it is collapsed now, but you are welcome to it.
 
Thanks Toby, but I'll figure out something. Need to look around for someone parting an XJ locally I think or manage to make it to a junkyard.
 
Drove it!

I knew you vultures (I've trained you well!) wouldn't be happy until I could get up visual proof, so I waited to get the video up for you.

Kate picked up the new front and shorter rear driveshafts yesterday evening and I threw the rear one in last night so I could actually have it move under its own power. Had it in low gear because I don't have the t-case shifter figured out yet and that's what I could manage by hand.

You can hear the fuel pump start up right before I turn it over... Laura was not happy with how loud it was last night (she'd heard it run before and didn't mind, that's why we had her there with Kate)

Drove fine, nothing blew up and no massive leaks. Loud as all get out, need to figure the exhaust solution next along with the tcase shifter.

Link to YouTube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thizC7i_gnA
 
Way to go Eric. :thumbsup:
So all you need to do is exhaust and transfer case shifter? On the down hill side. Are you going to have it done for Silver Lake?

Don
 
Thanks. Exhaust and Tcase shifter need started. I may have to work on the crossmember to clear the front d-shaft too. I am surprised how far back everything got moved with this swap. The Tcase shifter simply can't go in through the stock tranny cover (not just the stock hole, I mean through the main opening that the cover goes over!), it's about 4" too far forward. Got an idea last night for a way to move the shifter pivot forward, need to try that.

I'm still fiddling with the tranny shifter. I think I'll have to remove the "gate" on my stock floor shifter and make a plate with a different pattern to replace it in order to get all the gear combos due to the spacing differences between gears.

Then there's the diagnostic port and MIL light to wire in if I want to be able to scan it.

I definitely plan on it being at Silver Lake. I want it drivable ASAP to enjoy this nice weather!!!
 
very cool I was showing your video to some of my buddies and they were all over it!! I am very jealous GREAT THREAD!!!!!
 
Ordered a 4wd hardware cat-back setup today, figured it was cheap enough that I'd cut some cost by making less work for the exhaust shop or if I try to do something myself I'll know that this much is ready to go. Working on a couple options for a stock front pipe, we'll see what shakes out.

Also ordered an eBay twin stick setup and dual shifter boot. In looking at his pics, he's got it mounted such that the pivot is almost exactly where I was going to have to move it in order to get the shifters to come up in the right spot (~3" in front of the stock pivot location). I also think I'll be able to bend his shifter rods a LOT easier than the ones I have (stockers I cut/welded to match up, but look to need some bending) since I don't have a proper torch.

Also picked up some fittings for the fuel pressure regulator to go from the AN8 fittings you have to use on the pump feed and fuel return lines to go to 3/8" FI hose with clamps. In a perfect world I'd be more like Randy and use high zoot connectors... maybe someday. Unfortunately our power was out here tonight until just now, so I couldn't get out there to put the regulator in.

While our power was out, I worked on the wiring spreadsheet I've been putting together. It's going to be real handy for anyone who happens to have a 97 to swap in.
 
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