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Project Slow and Steady

Unlike sand or other media. Any part cleaned with baking soda has to be cleaned before primer and top coat is applied. Google soda blasting for good instructions on how to use.
 
Holy cow I finally got the roll bar out after all the torx! ARRRRRGGGGH man I hate those things.

Ok so what do you think does the roll bar go on CL or should it just go in the pile for now?
 
Good luck with the roll bar...I have one I can't even give away...

Cant wait to see how your LCG build goes...:thumbsup:
 
So has anyone ever used a soda blaster instead of a sand blaster? I picked one up at Harbor Freight for use on this project. I've seen videos on YouTube of them but have never actually used one. Looks like they work well but we'll have to see. I'm looking forward to blasting something and not having to worry about the huge mess that comes with it.

Hope it works!!:fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed:

GARY R used the soda blasting process on his. but iirc he had a friend bring out a professional setup.
 
Good luck with the roll bar...I have one I can't even give away...

That's kind of what I thought too. Heck right now it is being used as a monkey bar set by my three little one's so that will do for now.
 
So the last week or so I had been working on trying to buy a 14bolt and front D60 housing only that a guy was selling for under $300 on another bulletin board. After calling him he said someone had flaked on him but that they might come through..bla bla bla. Told him I'd come down right now to pick up and he said I'll let you know tomorrow. Of course the next couple of days he doesn't respond to calls or PM's so I guess he sold them but who knows. :banghead:

So I've managed to get the rest of the dash out. I"m looking forward to getting a new dash in that doesn't have the unnecessary cut outs on it.

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I'm keeping the classic design for the dash though. I just dig CJ dashes as is. Of course it's funny now that I'm fixing it but get a load of the hack job a PO did to the fire wall.

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That is the new hole that was put in for the ARB wiring, oil gauge and other stuff. That jagged piece of metal and sharp metal edge never shorted out any wiring somehow. Looks like they should have surrounded the wires with razor blades.

I want to try and clean up the wiring that is under the dash and throughout the Jeep. I've been looking for one of the power distribution centers that Randyzzzz Jeep has (the police unit) but I can't seem to find them any time on ebay. I'm hoping to make it cleaned up a little more like

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But maybe a little more protected from the elements.
 
That PDC was a once in a lifetime thing, I'm thinking. I should have bought them all. They were from a police contract, extra units that an auction company was trying to get rid of for the department. Mine was made by MNStar, I know Patrol Power is another manufacturer. I have looked several times since for more, but no luck.
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for alternative fuse boxes? I've checked out some of the painless wiring boxes and I don't know they just don't float my boat. I want to look at some marine applications too but haven't done it yet.
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for alternative fuse boxes? I've checked out some of the painless wiring boxes and I don't know they just don't float my boat. I want to look at some marine applications too but haven't done it yet.

Here's a link to a marine electrical supplier.

http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Fuses%20and%20Blocks/Fuse%20Blocks/

They have free shipping and also carry the waterproof terminations and wiring for a decent price.
 
Some of those are pretty slick. I like the 12 circuit box.

Just out of curiosity has anyone thought of moving the battery to the rear for any extra area under the hood. I was considering using the battery area now as the electrical circuit area and moving the battery behind the seat or else where. Just spit balling here on the idea really.
 
The problem with moving the battery farther from the front of the vehicle is the voltage drop you would incur with the heavy loads for the starter, and possible winch.
Of course they make heavier gauge wire to overcome this. I believe there is a wire size calculator on the site that I linked for the fuse panels.
 
When one door closes another one opens. Well sometimes. In this case I came across another 14 bolt and it was only a couple of miles from my house. $100 later its in my garage now.

Can I say I'm beaming with pride??:D:D:D

As it sits it is from a SRW Chevy and has 4:10 gears. Don't think I'll keep the gears but who knows. I'd like to pick up some C&C hubs to bring it into a 63" WMS from 67". It is freaking huge for sure. I'm just looking forward to wheeling it because I'm not breaking this thing. No worries with it.

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Just removing more stuff today in an effort to get the tub off. As I pulled the transmission cover off I could obviously peer down and see the top of the T-5. It's actually not the original T-5 as the previous owner swapped it out for a World Class T-5. But as you might be able to see on the top of the cover a recycle symbol cast into the aluminum. There is just something about seeing a recycle symbol on a transmission that doesn't instill confidence in it.

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I'm looking forward to replacing it with my SM420 sitting in my garage. I rebuilt it awhile back and man what a beast it is. The 7:1 first gear should be sweet up on the Rubicon. I can live with one less gear for some good crawl ratios. Again a main goal of this build is to make it bullet proof on the trail. Not necessarily hard core. Just want strong.

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There is just something about seeing a recycle symbol on a transmission that doesn't instill confidence in it.

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If I had a beer right now, I'd have spit it all over my computer :eek: :rotfl:

That's funny junk right there man...
 
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