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Randyzzz Scrambler Restification Thread!

Nice. You did a thorough job. I was lucky and did not have to deal with any panel replacement.

As far as power windows go, stay away from the ones that use and adapter to drive the original regulator. I prefer the ones that lift the window from the middle and run on a separate track.

For power locks, the ones that use a gear driven actuator instead of a magnetic one are the way to go.
 
What do you think about the kits from electric-life? Their's seems to be a simple bolt in replacement
 
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Just checked their site out, that looks like great stuff! I'm going to have to bookmark that!
 
Randy,
have you looked at the 4 gauges that have a central speedo or Tach with the oil, amps, water, etc in the same gauge arrayed around the central primary function? You'd end up with two larger diameter clusters about the size of a cj speedo but with all the gauges you could want. I an't recall teh name off the top of my head but there are a couple of companies who make them, not inexpensive but cheaper than buying a lot of quality gauges and then trying to mount them all.

OK, not exactly what I was trying to explain but this is an idea http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/AUM1308.htm# or http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Te_SLF the egauges site has a number of options available, I think I like this one http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Moal_BL but it doesn't help reduce the footprint
 
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I'm familiar with those gauges- in fact I'm planning on installing a set in my wife's Waggy. I already have a nice set of VDO Cockpit gauges for the Scrambler. I really want to keep individual gauges in the Scrambler for visibility reasons. Thanks for the suggestion!

Progress is going slow again...moving date has been set for August 1st, I've got A LOT of sorting/packing to do...
 
Since my last post I've made some good progress on my center console/shifter housing. This includes finalizing the 4WD shifter, mounting the trans shifter, getting a hand lever parking brake mounted and operational, and building a dual lockbox and console out of metal. However, camara issues leave me with no pictures. I will get some soon.

My moving date is firm at August 1st, so there will probably be no more build progress until after that. I've been collecting more parts, and the new place has been keeping me busy.

This weekend was spent insulating and then sheetrocking the garage at the new place. Not one of my favorite jobs, even though my son and son-in-law were great helpers. (Who am I kidding...they did most of the work!)

I'll keep posting updates and get some pics once the camera issue is resolved.
 
Yep, moving sucks. One weekend to move the house, and three weekends and counting on the garage.

Here's some progress I made on my console and shifter cover. There's two lockable boxes- one with a mounted holster and the other for misc stuff. Both have blue LED lighting. The front box has an internal power port to charge a phone or camera and still be locked up.

The front half is bent and welded angle, it will be covered with sheet metal and carpeted too. I'm thinking carbon fiber for the top panel....

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'lectric...?

Randyzzz said:
As far as power windows go, stay away from the ones that use and adapter to drive the original regulator. I prefer the ones that lift the window from the middle and run on a separate track.

For power locks, the ones that use a gear driven actuator instead of a magnetic one are the way to go.
Click to expand...

Any chance you would share the linkys to the ones you recomend? I would normally...uh, scoff(?) at the idea of putting 'lectric locks/windows in a jeep...but since I am heading to snowy country I think it would be nice to be able to let mine run to warm up without having to leave it unlocked...or maybe even add a remote start...? The windows going up and down Volta-style would be a benny should a cage find its way into mine one day.?.
Nice work Randy....as usual!
 
NeatO

Thanks Randyyyy...
That may be something to look into down the road for me as well. I would be inclined to do the CJ Specifc since the "universal" seems more...complicated? Wonder how hard they are to install?
Also, do you know of any good links to a remote start? One that would work with a manual tranny??
 
Usually remote start is not an option on manual trans. You have park it in neutral with the parking brake set, and then bypass the clutch safety switch with a relay. It can be done. I have installed Code Alarm systems, they are a supplier to the OEM. They make a cool alarm/pager/remote start that will be going in my Scrambler at some point.
 
Randy: My god! I have just spent the last 1.5 hours looking at your build thread from begining to end and I must say you've been a busy little beaver haven't you.

I also got some good ideas from your work. I especially liked the rotissiere from two engine stands. Be going to Harborfreight this weekend to pick up another cheapy stand for my rotissiere. is that spelled right?

I liked the routing of your fuel lines also, never even thought of running them up the drive train.

Goota tell ya, the Cage is really nice, and it's one of the best looking ones I've seen, and you know I've seen a bunch!

The Hammertone paint has something added to it so it "Fisheye's" on purpose. In fact all it does is fisheye. That's the look. I've been painting my wheels with hammertone grays since I was 16 years old, I'm 60! Good stuff and it touches up pretty well too, because of the texture.

Have you fired this thing yet? It's good to see someone else who is willing to wait and do things right instead of using the "I just wanted to get it running ' excuse! Heard it way too many times.

The thing I am really waiting for is the final paint job, and I'm assuming that will be coming soon?

You've done a real good job so far, and you are going to have a really nice Jeep when you're done. Believe me I know how the frustration of a long winded project can take you away from your goal. Dude I'm heavily into guns too, and shooting is taking way too much time away from my project. But It will get done, mainly by just keeping at it.

It's smoking hot there in Ojai right now and I can't even go into my garage let alone do any serious work, but it is supposed to be cooling down Thursday and I have to hit it to get the body off and things that have to get done before I pull it.

I haven't figured out my dash yet either and I have a whole box full of Isspro gages to work into it.

Just keep at it you'll love it when you're done.

Randy
 
Thanks, Randy. Still haven't fired it up, that's a ways off. I was almost in the "just get it running" mode with winter coming and only 1 good winter vehicle, but the Cherokee I just picked up took off the pressure.

The engine stand rotisserie worked great. The only thing I would have added was a tube to join the two together at the bottom, but you just have to be aware of movement if you don't.

The dash is next. I think I have been delaying on it because i'm planning on having it water jet or laser cut...and I don't want to pay for something I don't like. I might just cut it myself...hole saws and what not, then if I like it I'll have it done professionally. (Maybe I'll get lucky and like the job I do myself and call it good!)

Can't discuss paint right now...sore subject. Decided on Copper, but the design department (Wife) hates every copper color I show her. She actually likes the old drab faded color, which I can't stand. She used to be an interior decorator, and is very stubborn on colors and such. (She has a good eye, too...) White has been suggested, along with a metallic green, like the Element "Kiwi Green". We'll see how that goes...
 
Randy: You can mock up out of masonite sheet and have a pretty good idea of what it will look like when done. If you have a CAD program You can get the dimensions right but it is hard to evaluate the 'Look" of the thing. You really need the 3d view to be successful, and you may need more than one shot. I've had to scrap several things along the way cuz they just didn't get it.

Mine is essentially going to be a piece of 1/4 aluminum plate cut to fit the normal dash board place, and then a formed box bolted to the front with the Gages and various insundry switches and lights installed. Also the box and all the gages will be aimed at the drivers position. Things like the A/C controls, light switch and Wiper controls will be in the main plate. I think I am going to mount my CB Radio above under the roof in the center.

I've got speedo, tach, boost, egt, fuel level, O/P W/T, Volts, and Air Pressure. I think I'm going back to them for a clock too! So there is a bunch going on.

I'm doing this so I can remove the box and work on the gages on the bench rather than trying to work upside down under the dash. My CJ 5 has this problem and believe me it sucks.

My Yukon Denali Seats have arm rests so the only center console I'll have will be a little box between the seats. OH and I will have at least 2 well constructed cup holders in thsi jeep.

Try to get a picture in your head of what you would like this thing to look like, do this many times, to refine it til it works and does what you want and eventually it will appear in the real world. It's what I do. Sounds like magic , but it is what development is all about. It's not like you can go down to the NAPA store and buy one.

It's not what you buy, it's what you build. And I'm sure you've heard" Real Jeeps are built not bought" :thumbsup:

Well I say,,,, "it's not how well you do what you know how to do, It's how well you do, what you don't know how to do, that matters" :rotfl:

Randy
 
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I like that saying.

I have made several up out of cardboard, and used replica gauges and stereo that I printed on the computer. They just didn't have the right "feel". I think it's time to just build some panels and go from there. Get it worked out 1:1 and then have the final version professionally done.

One of the locals builds "trophy trucks", full on off road racers...he showed me his carbon fiber dash today...might be an option...
 
electric life regulators are supposed to be an exact replacement and I think I'm about ready to try these. I have not been working much on my own rebuid this summer but have been driving the hell out of it. Randy I decided to go back with the original brown copper Metalic but in base coat,clearcoat and am so happy I did. I thinks it looks better than I expected.
 
One other thing and this one is a fine point.

The edges of the dash panel in a Jeep are tapered from bottom to top about 1/8" on either side. If you try to use a rectangle piece of material it will not look right on the edges. I learned this on my first Jeep 15 years ago.

I have seen so many dash panels that missed this small point it's criminal. You see it everytime you get into the Jeep. It would bug the crap out of me.

Just be patient, you'll figure the dash out.. You may even have to cut the dash cross bars out of your cage to get where you need to go. BUt consider this. "you'll be looking at that dash board more than any other thing in the Jeep, so better get it right for you" Don't settle on this point.

Just keep developing the picture of the final product in your head and eventually you will be satisfied with it , I do CAD drawings at that point, and then it is much easier to actually build it, because then you are just building parts to print, and you know everything will fit because it works on the computer

Randy
 
Never even thought about the taper you mention, Randy. Are you describing the complete stock dash panel? One taper I am contemplating is the edges where the panels butt up against the cage tubes. I may end up gluing a thin rubber strip around the perimeter on the back of the panels so that it will become a gasket of sorts when the panels are bolted down.

I am a stickler for symmetry, and that's what's throwing my designs off. But, where there's a will, there's a way.

ZR, post up a couple pics of the paint, I'd like to see how it turned out!
 
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