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RispoNY's Scrambler Build Thread - The 'Kit' Scrambler w/ Postal Top (PIC HEAVY)

Oh, and AMC BLUE allll the way! I already bought eastwood's AMC Blue because I didn't know they was an Aerosol version, then when I bought the stuff from Bulltear, I saw it the cans and ordered them as well. Now I have an extra quart sitting around that I have to figure out what to do with. Paint the frame maybe? :D I plan on just painting the block and heads only, masking off all the freeze plugs for that "built" look. I think the blue will be very nicely offset by the aluminum intake, timing cover, water pump, and carb. On top of that, black valve covers, air cleaner, oil pan, and headers...Did I mention I'm getting headers?!? This is what I hope for it to look similar too a couple weeks time (Photocredit to 1987MattCJ7 over on Jeepforum.com)

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I'd go with block hugger style headers and keep the exhaust inside the frame rails.
 
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Go Doug Thorley tri-Y, ceramic coated. I did a lot of header research before I bought. Doug Thorley uses the thickest flanges, they are dog-legged specifically for AMC heads, and the ceramic-coating means you won't get the rust that all the other brands will give you. These are also inside the frame-rail, and designed for CJs.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dougs-Headers/776/D1104Y/10002/-1?parentProductId=938133
 
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Little update, here are some of the parts I planned to install. As mentioned, this build is going to be a little less conservative then my DD...

Posion Spyder Trail Stinger
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Speedhut Guages, still decideding on blue or green. They both look amazing.
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J.W. Speaker Model 8700 HD Headlights...black housing obviously!
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BDS 4.5" Lift
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Aero Tanks 33 Gallon
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Warn Zeon Winch...Still Deciding which model exactly. (8S or 10)
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American Racing Mojave Rims - Teflon Coated
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Skip the headers. Manifolds are best for a Jeep IMO. Headers are loud, they leak, collect mud, burn knuckles when working in the engine bay and rust unless you get expensive coatings. Total waste on the Jeep.
 
LetchcoreCJ7 said:
Skip the headers. Manifolds are best for a Jeep IMO. Headers are loud, they leak, collect mud, burn knuckles when working in the engine bay and rust unless you get expensive coatings. Total waste on the Jeep.
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Interesting point. You don't think they're worth the performance gains? Never ran a set but I've been told it's ~15 or more hp, sometimes even 25...It's either investing in headers which id then coat myself, or begin the search for a set of center dump manifolds to fit the jeep and invest in those (if I can find them)!

Not too concerned about loudness though, I have my little 4cyl scrambler to drive if I'm ever in the mood for a quiet drive! The silence gets too me sometimes so I almost need a loud jeep!
 
For a stock 360 with a 2-bbl carb, where low-end torque mattered infinitely more than HP, and where the engine probably was never destined to see much over 3000 RPM, the OEM high-flow style manifolds were fine. I even know a guy who took a stock 401 and put a 2-bbl intake and carb on it specifically for a trail-only project (not street legal buggy). I ran a 360 with the free-flow manifolds for several years in my CJ-7, with a true-dual exhaust exiting at the rear with glass-packs, and it was LOUD.

I think with this engine, you're going to be looking for more than just low-end grunt, and you're going to need a more efficient way to get gases out. I've had my DT headers for over 10 years. They are strong and they don't leak. Yes, you need to pay attention to keeping the header bolts tight, but I'm also dealing with aluminum heads and you're not. Yes, I think the ceramic coating is worth it because they've never rusted. They are strong enough to support the weight of the engine (and nearly the entire weight of the front half of the Jeep, but I'm not proud of that moment). I've developed one minor crack at one of the welds, but it's so minor that you wouldn't notice it if I didn't point it out. And it's not the headers that dictate the noise; it's the rest of the exhaust system. Open headers are loud and obnoxious. Manifolds with glass-packs are also loud and obnoxious. Put on a muffler and tune your system to your preferences!

I wouldn't ever recommend messing with painted Hooker, etc., as they are cheap, will rust, the flanges won't hold the gasket so you'll get leaks, etc. But I've been very pleased with my Doug Thorley headers. As far as headers go, the Tri-Ys will also be more torque-friendly than equal-length tubes to a single collector. If I wasn't running the DTs, I'd stick with the free-flow manifolds (rather than the log-style, which was prevalent in some AMC cars). I've probably burnt myself on manifolds as often or more often than on my headers.
 
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If you have not gotten your lockers yet JC Whitney has an amazing sale on lockers right now.

Sent from my bla bla phone zero2wow ;-)
 
Unfortunately, I missed the crazy sale! Wasn't considering going with lockers, but after Jeff and I spoke on the phone, I decided to take the plunge ($377).....until I noticed they were sold out. Good news is, I'll get to reappropriate the money to other more crucial parts needed at this point in the build.

I finally received my package from Bulltear which I couldn't wait to open. Timing chain cover, water pump, oil pump, paint, etc.. Also got some other little things, check the pics...

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Mating Surfaces are razor sharp
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The other water pump was a mess, this one looks amazing.
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AMC BLUE! Question though, has anyone used Seymour paint? I've only seen builds with Eastwood's AMC Blue. The guys over at bulltear who sold me the seymour aersol paint said it doesn't need primer. How can primer hurt though?

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Got this 'HRC' oil pump upgrade from bulltear, it has hydro-relief channels cut into each gear to relieve pressure. $20
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And here's the oil pump housing...I know it's supposed to be 100% flat and level, so am I just going crazy or is the dimple an issue? I'm going to call them in the morning regardless

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The dimple is the right there in the center of everything...is that an issue?
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And lastly for today, here are some other little things I got:

Air Cleaner Badge (great quality but all the ebay auctions I found for them show them as brushed aluminum, they're not)
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And then some aircraft style safety switches (I want people to think I'm firing a missile when I want to turn on my rock lights or air compressor)
*Credit for these goes to ExhaustDemon, I caught them during his build
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rispony said:
AMC BLUE! Question though, has anyone used Seymour paint? I've only seen builds with Eastwood's AMC Blue. The guys over at bulltear who sold me the seymour aersol paint said it doesn't need primer. How can primer hurt though?

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Got this 'HRC' oil pump upgrade from bulltear, it has hydro-relief channels cut into each gear to relieve pressure. $20
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I used the Seymour paint on my 360 (I still need to get the build specs to you). It turned out great! I did not use primer however, I did get Ace Hardware silver high temp spray paint and used that as a base coat then sprayed the Seymour AMC blue over it. Really makes it pop!
 
Body Rivets?

Stopped by to see the painter today. The tub look amazing. They did minor body work, i.e. smoothing out some imperfections, grinding down some snot welds that the PO did on the firewall, seam sealed everything, and sanded it all down. It looks incredible and is as smooth as silk. One thing I noticed is that they left the body rivets untouched in the rear quarter panel and by the doors. The tub is supposed to go into primer tomorrow afternoon and they planed to leave them showing. I asked why and they said it would make the tub look factory, and three of the guys said I should definitely keep them. I've never really noticed them on my black 81' but now that I see the tub bare they're definitely evident. It's a little bothersome to have the entire tub smooth as glass and then feel these 10-15 bumps on each side because of the factory welds. However, I do agree that it adds a touch of originality and shows that the tub hasn't been painted and repainted a million times or chopped and hacked. What do you guys think? Do the rivets affect resale value or are they a factory imperfection I should take care of? Check the pics...

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The ones back here are hard to see, but they basically follow the line of the inner floor
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The ones by the door are more evident
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