SJScrambler - Getting Started

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
City
Palm Bay
State
FL
Thanks for the link.
Yeah, I was thinking the ability to spin as needed versus not doing it at times when it would be too much trouble would be money well spent. :thumbsup:
 

certifiablejeep

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CJ-8.com Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
Head install, more cleaning, primer, paint... wanted to get this done before it got really cold.
Came out pretty decent... need to install the water pump, new plugs, fuel pump, thermostat, etc.

I made some "locating pins" for the head to get it to line up better.

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Ran an old distrubutor shaft down and spun it for 5 mins or so after some oil... all the lifters pumped up pretty good... a few were slow, so rotated the crank and did it again... then the battery in the drill died... so beer opened, cleaned up, ate some good food and watched some football.

20201126_143815_resized.jpg

Valve cover is just sitting on there to see the overall look.

20201126_143822_resized.jpg

cb
 

certifiablejeep

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Bedford
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Had to put the engine back together... so a few brackets and such will need future painting, but all in all, it is mostly done.

20201128_165729_resized.jpg

New fuel pump, water pump, oil pan, valve cover, gaskets, spark plugs... HEI distributor hasn't arrived yet... nor the wires... will slap a weber on it and run it like this for now... Howell injection when I have the $$$..

cb
 

certifiablejeep

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City
Bedford
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NH
Finally got around to dissasembly of the donor doors for the NOS shells I got a while back.
The shells are for pre-82 doors with fixed vents, so there are some mods that has to be done.

So far I noticed.

1) Vent window opening in the door is different
2) Reinforcement behind the hinges is more substantial on the 82 and up doors
3) Design change for the lock mechanism to keep the rod in place
4) Need for 2 holes to hold the vent window in place, pre-82 has 1 screw on the top, the donors have 3.
5) riveted strip seems to be missing a hole... not a huge deal, just noticed that

Gonna make sure everything fits first, then take it all apart and blast, primer and put seals in it.

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The donor door was very stubborn, but we got it finally... a couple screws would not come out without heat and persuasion.

Gonna do more tonight... but all the parts are out now and only missing one screw so far (broke it off and drilled it out).

cb
 

certifiablejeep

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City
Bedford
State
NH
Potential wheel choice as well... the U-101 15x8 compared to the original slot on the wifes Jeep... they are pretty close... the ring in the middle is the biggest thing I noticed off the bat, but other that that with tires mounted and such, I think it would pass better than the older ones that had the ovals not centered on the lugs.

thumbnail_20201207_153350_resized.jpg

cb
 

certifiablejeep

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City
Bedford
State
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This was the piece inside the door that I was referring to.

thumbnail_20201209_191027_resized.jpg

Finished up the doors without the seals to make sure it all fit... it does and it works!

thumbnail_20201210_185112_resized.jpg

Taking apart the driver side now...
thumbnail_20201210_185914_resized.jpg

Didn't make a ton of progress on this one yet... I could not get the door crank off... bolt came out fine, but someone had siliconed it on there... or glue or something... it wouldn't budge.... people do weird things.

cb
 

Hoover

CJ-8 Member
LIFETIME
City
Livingston
State
AL
This was the piece inside the door that I was referring to.

View attachment 89596


cb
cb,
Seeing the pictures helped me track a little better with your list above, and this could potentially help me with an issue on my doors! I'd like to know more about the rod bracket and placement in your pic- is it mounted to the door skin? On both my doors, the mounting strip that anchors the rod connecting the paddle handle and latch has broken- appears it was tack welded to the rear window glide channel, but have not been able to come up with any easy way to reattach the anchor point. If I am understanding correctly, this looks to be an alternate approach, and trying to figure out how to utilize something like this for my fix. Perhaps fabbing a bracket and tack welding it to the door skin?

685BA3F4-88D8-482E-ACB0-F552E68D2DB3_1_105_c.jpeg
 
Last edited:

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
From what I understand it was a design change... the one you have is riveted in place I think... I can try to take a picture of the other door and see where it was placed, but I have to imagine it was somewhere near what the new design change is.... it literally is a bracket as you said that is spot welded in place.

cb
 

Hoover

CJ-8 Member
LIFETIME
City
Livingston
State
AL
Seeing that would be helpful, thanks! I've been so focused on futile ways to reattach the metal tab back to the window channel that the notion of using a bracket off the backside of the door skin never occurred to me. Ha, really appreciating the view now that I'm outside my box.....
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Around post #100:

https://www.cj-8.com/threads/new-to-me-83-parts-needed.26968/page-5

Info about the door clips I discovered about 8 years ago.
cb,
Seeing the pictures helped me track a little better with your list above, and this could potentially help me with an issue on my doors! I'd like to know more about the rod bracket and placement in your pic- is it mounted to the door skin? On both my doors, the mounting strip that anchors the rod connecting the paddle handle and latch has broken- appears it was tack welded to the rear window glide channel, but have not been able to come up with any easy way to reattach the anchor point. If I am understanding correctly, this looks to be an alternate approach, and trying to figure out how to utilize something like this for my fix. Perhaps fabbing a bracket and tack welding it to the door skin?

View attachment 89599
I had to repair one on my 81 also. I tacked it to a piece of sheet metal and then welded the sheet metal to the window track. Not pretty but it worked. E97F68EE-8C3A-4CE1-AE57-BDB66A3B9F93.jpeg 600FEF3D-F0B6-4F96-9376-8391EEF3182E.jpeg 17EC7E1E-08B3-470E-AA6F-F704186C49AE.jpeg 6A2BE671-234A-4C61-B7D7-6EDD115EE0C4.jpeg
 

Hoover

CJ-8 Member
LIFETIME
City
Livingston
State
AL
I had to repair one on my 81 also. I tacked it to a piece of sheet metal and then welded the sheet metal to the window track. Not pretty but it worked. View attachment 89633 View attachment 89634 View attachment 89635 View attachment 89636

That's pretty clever, Randy. I also hadn't considered lengthening the upright to the point to hit it with the mig through the latch opening. These are great ideas, really appreciate you guys sharing!

And don't underestimate yourself- those are pretty good looking welds given the room you have to work with!! :thumbsup:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I would definitely make sure to reinstall those rod clips some how. Without them, at high speeds/wind, the door skins flex and the remote rod will rattle against the outer door shell.

Ask me how I know 😆
 

certifiablejeep

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LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
I tried the best to get the pics of the older style setup... the newer style setup I don't have access to a door shell that isn't cut/rusted at the moment.

thumbnail_20201211_164900_resized.jpg

thumbnail_20201211_164907_resized.jpg

thumbnail_20201211_164922_resized.jpg

Hope it helps

cb
 

Randyzzz

Blown Budget
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
That's pretty clever, Randy. I also hadn't considered lengthening the upright to the point to hit it with the mig through the latch opening. These are great ideas, really appreciate you guys sharing!

And don't underestimate yourself- those are pretty good looking welds given the room you have to work with!! :thumbsup:
It was all I could manage to fit the mig gun in there and point it in the general direction...plus I didn’t want to distort the window run.
 
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