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SJScrambler - Getting Started

So the doors are specific to the 10?

I'm saying to go out to your warehouse and get a set of take-off 7 doors and rob some solid door frame channel from them to make the angled top rear corner necessary for the top.

You are correct, that is the only unique part, excepting the hard to source glass.

That is my fall back plan on my build if I can't get the CJ10 doors, but I hope to not need that. I already bought a set of door glass from Australia and had them shipped stateside.
 
nor did I realize the glass for these is curved whereas 7 glass is flat

7 glass is not flat, just such a small curve you don't notice it.

Don't forget it is safety glass, and tempering must be done after cutting. Float glass would be very dangerous in a car window.
 
Don't forget it is safety glass, and tempering must be done after cutting. Float glass would be very dangerous in a car window.
This is what I love about jeeps. You need to know more than just simple mechanics to get by. I'm trying to repair a soft top zipper over the holidays, come to find out zippers are more complicated than I imagined. Some parts are easy to replace, others require a complete replacement of the whole zipper. I'm going to try to rig it using a kit off of Amazon, but if that doesn't work I'll have to recruit my MIL.
 
Craig, as good as you are with sheet metal, couldn't you make the filler pieces for the top to fit the CJ 7 doors and blend them into the top so they look (and become) part of the top? The top you are using is already metal so wouldn't that be the simplest way for someone with your skills?
 
Am I insane or missing something?

Wait, dont answer that.

On page 36(?), Craig posted pictures of the CJ10a.

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Looks like square edge doors to me, so why fix something not broken?

:shrug:
 
Am I insane or missing something?

Wait, dont answer that.

On page 36(?), Craig posted pictures of the CJ10a.

View attachment 78290

Looks like square edge doors to me, so why fix something not broken?

:shrug:
Because it doesn't look right... I have the doors, they can be used, but the roundness of the rest of the CJ, this just looks off to me and others, that is what we are discussing.

cb
 
Craig, as good as you are with sheet metal, couldn't you make the filler pieces for the top to fit the CJ 7 doors and blend them into the top so they look (and become) part of the top? The top you are using is already metal so wouldn't that be the simplest way for someone with your skills?

I plan on doing something like that once I figure out why the windshield frame and top/body aren't all working together... the gaps on the driver side door are off and the rear panel of the top won't tighten down on the passenger side.

I have to take off some parts/pieces and try to see what is what when I get a few minutes.

cb
 
MERRY CHRISTMAS / HAPPY HANUKAH to everyone... if you celebrate something else, MERRY/HAPPY that as well!

I think I finally figured out what is causing the alignment issue, but not sure why they attempted to do this... unless the top somehow bent back or something gave this thing a huge hit from the inside... as it is not symmetric.

It is kind of difficult to see, so I put a straight edge up so you can see.
The bolt holes in the middle of the rear glass piece were not lining up.
So, I finally figured out that it was also raised in the middle.

Take a look at the pictures... I don't believe that is supposed to be like that.

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The holes on the rear window piece are all in a perfect line and are all flat with no raise in the piece itself.
I really don't know why some tried to modify the rear piece, but now I think I have to cut it all out and replace the metal :(

I don't think there is saving it... it is really bend and kinked along the back edge... almost like they removed 3 bolts on each side and a stiff wind blew back the piece bending the metal and instead of taking it off, they probably grapped it and bend it back, but they didn't have a buddy help them so it bent back but unevenly to one side... if you look closely from the above hosts, the bend out is not symmetric from side to side... it is just a head scratcher.


I also tried the bar that will be the rear brace... needs a pie cut and bend forward and cut down about 2 inches for height, but that is the plan with the rockhard from cage piece.

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cb
 
Dang... I'd be willing to try a lot of pounding and bending, before cutting it out and replacing it!

You're getting pretty good at cutting and welding body panels though, so that might be the quicker way.

Merry Christmas! :christmas:
 
Damn they really tore that up. At least it looks like you would have a chance cutting and replacing the top section ( bent lip down a inch or two). Rest should come in ok. If you start cutting, bending and welding you'll probably open up pandora's box.
 
Damn they really tore that up. At least it looks like you would have a chance cutting and replacing the top section ( bent lip down a inch or two). Rest should come in ok. If you start cutting, bending and welding you'll probably open up pandora's box.
I can see PANDOR'S BOX on the side of it already.
 
I am really starting to wonder if the doors for the tug are different angles in the front... I got the back area straightened out by cutting off the busted part so the top would bolt on... and then I tried to fit the top and everything wasn't fitting, it was off by 1/4", so I got the old windshield frame and put it in place of the new one and same issue.

I then made the top fit with some screwdrivers and such and now the doors won't shut and can't be adjusted.

I am going to dig out the doors today and try to get them on there and see what is what... the only thing I can think of that is tweaking this is that the tub is not level on the frame, so will loosen up the body mounts and see how/what that does... but other than that, the doors themselves on the front angle might be different? it is contacting on both sides at the top and can't be adjusted anymore and just in general don't fit.

cb

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the opening of the door, the "bath tub" or "U" section seems to be fine side to side... about 1/8" of a difference, so this didn't even crumple up and the bottom of the door fits fine... it is at the top front corner that can't be moved forward.

cb
 
It's fitment exercises like this that make me think of a dog chasing its tail...good luck and keep us posted. And a late Merry Christmas
 
It's fitment exercises like this that make me think of a dog chasing its tail...good luck and keep us posted. And a late Merry Christmas

I would have a lot more fun if I had a tail and was chasing it... this stuff just doesn't add up and it is frustrating beyond belief.

cb
 
So you adjusted the plates on the bottom of the windshield frame as much as you can ?
 
So you adjusted the plates on the bottom of the windshield frame as much as you can ?

They aren't even in there... this is just the top being bolted in... the windshield frame would need to be pushed forward if anything and that is limited by the back window piece being rigidly mounted.

I will get the original doors out today and hang them and see what is what, I know this all was together when I got it, so I have to recreate that, and then see about the CJ doors.

cb
 
Ok. I know when I went from soft doors with soft top to YJ steel 1/2 doors and soft uppers I had to do a lot of adjusting at the door hinges and the windshield. Top of windshield needed tilting forward slightly. Glad I don't need to figure out what you need. A. Lot of patience required
 
As you stated...the original doors looked like they fit well, the trim edge on the door lined up with the top of the tub too.

Is it possible that the rear part of the cab and windshield are leaning towards the back?

If you removed the top piece - if that's possible - and adjusted the door to get the edge lined up with the tub, then adjust the windshield and rear cab to match the door would the top fit?

DOOR.PNG
 
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