- City
- Baton Rouge
- State
- La
Louisiana dirt is smarter.
Spankrjs' 1984 Long Term Project
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- Dillsboro
- State
- IN
Appreciate it Toby, see you next week
My poor ole Mississippi Scrambler will have Louisiana and Alabama dirt on it at the same time
not any Gorgia or Indiana dirt left on it, but I would make a wager the if you look a little you can come up with some red Utah dust and white Michigan Sand!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Long time no see stranger
not any Gorgia or Indiana dirt left on it, but I would make a wager the if you look a little you can come up with some red Utah dust and white Michigan Sand!
And Kentucky/Arkansas Dirt, too
Broke a rear brake line in Vidalia, LA, Friday afternoon. The short line that runs from the center block to the passenger side wheel. Short piece of brake tube, quick brake bleed, back on the run
Wheeled a few trails at Sicily Island on Saturday, drove home Sunday. Cleaned it up, serviced it Sunday night. I need to rebalance the tires, then it should be good to go for the trip up to Hawk Pride on Wednesday
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Back from a two week off road trip in the Red Scrambler, Sicily Island then Hawk Pride. Got the red Scrambler all cleaned up and ready to go again, so I started back on this one
Spent the last two evening running all the plug wires, which is a PIA. I am running "Ram Horn" manifolds, with center dumps, so all the plug wires have to come from the bottom up to the plugs.
I just need to prime the oil pump, reinstall the distributor, then fire it up
Should have it back on the road by Saturday, fingers crossed
Spent the last two evening running all the plug wires, which is a PIA. I am running "Ram Horn" manifolds, with center dumps, so all the plug wires have to come from the bottom up to the plugs.
I just need to prime the oil pump, reinstall the distributor, then fire it up
Should have it back on the road by Saturday, fingers crossed
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I couldn't wait for the weekend
I "rented" an oil pump primer tool from Autozone, primed the oil pump, dropped the distributer back in.
Turned the key On/Off three time to cycle the fuel pump (to get fuel up to the TB)
Turned it to start, it fired right up
Pulled it out the garage, brought the RPM's up to 2,000 for twenty minutes to break in the cam.
So far, no leaks or strange noises, the PS pump sounded like a Ford due to low fluid, but other then that, seems good to go
I just need to install the air cleaner and hood, and it will be ready to drive. I plan on driving it on a bunch of short daily driving trips over the next week or two before I get it back on the highway. I plan on keeping a sharp eye out for leaks and any other issues over the next several weeks, too.
That's it for now
I "rented" an oil pump primer tool from Autozone, primed the oil pump, dropped the distributer back in.
Turned the key On/Off three time to cycle the fuel pump (to get fuel up to the TB)
Turned it to start, it fired right up
Pulled it out the garage, brought the RPM's up to 2,000 for twenty minutes to break in the cam.
So far, no leaks or strange noises, the PS pump sounded like a Ford due to low fluid, but other then that, seems good to go
I just need to install the air cleaner and hood, and it will be ready to drive. I plan on driving it on a bunch of short daily driving trips over the next week or two before I get it back on the highway. I plan on keeping a sharp eye out for leaks and any other issues over the next several weeks, too.
That's it for now
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
So far, so good
I have been driving this Scrambler since this past weekend, and no problems so far, except for one, but it was "pre-engine swap"
I am getting an error code for no signal from the VSS. I have a 3 wire VSS. It is getting power, and it is grounded, but it is not talking to the ECM anymore. Before I swapped engines, the last time I drove it on the interstate it was randomly locking and unlocking the TCC. Now, since the VSS wont talk to the ECM, I am not getting TCC lock up at all
When the VSS was functioning, and the scan tool was plugged in, it was giving the exact MPH reading that the speedometer had (it is a pass through VSS, it plugs on the Dana 300 where the speedo cable plugs in, speedo cable piggy backs on to it). Now, it reads 0 MPH all the time.
The speedo gear/cable is fine.
I am getting 12 volts to the VSS, and it has a solid ground.
I verified my 12 volt supply to the TCC is still working (12 volts power goes through a brake light switch to unlock converter when braking).
So, the VSS is not sending a signal to the ECM anymore. As a result, no TCC lock up.
When the VSS worked, I would get TCC lock up in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears, Now, no TCC lock up in any gear.
My ECM/TBI harness can be wired two ways:
1) With the VSS hooked up, you would get TCC lock up in 2,3,4 gears. This is how it is, and I like it like this.
2) There was a stand alone wire that could be spliced into the TCC harness that would lock the TCC as soon as the transmission shifted into top gear. I don't like this as much, but might do this temporarily to make sure the TCC can/will still lock up.
To sum it up:
1) No signal from VSS
2) No TCC lock up
3) With scan tool plugged in, transmission in 4th gear, the ECM is not recognizing the transmission is in "Top Gear".
The Jeep runs/idles great, just no TCC lock up
My 3 wire VSS is a "Hall Effect" unit, manufactured by Magnetic Sensor Corp. I emailed them to see if they still make a unit like this, no response yet. I might try to take the sensor apart, maybe it has some contamination inside??
I have been driving this Scrambler since this past weekend, and no problems so far, except for one, but it was "pre-engine swap"
I am getting an error code for no signal from the VSS. I have a 3 wire VSS. It is getting power, and it is grounded, but it is not talking to the ECM anymore. Before I swapped engines, the last time I drove it on the interstate it was randomly locking and unlocking the TCC. Now, since the VSS wont talk to the ECM, I am not getting TCC lock up at all
When the VSS was functioning, and the scan tool was plugged in, it was giving the exact MPH reading that the speedometer had (it is a pass through VSS, it plugs on the Dana 300 where the speedo cable plugs in, speedo cable piggy backs on to it). Now, it reads 0 MPH all the time.
The speedo gear/cable is fine.
I am getting 12 volts to the VSS, and it has a solid ground.
I verified my 12 volt supply to the TCC is still working (12 volts power goes through a brake light switch to unlock converter when braking).
So, the VSS is not sending a signal to the ECM anymore. As a result, no TCC lock up.
When the VSS worked, I would get TCC lock up in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears, Now, no TCC lock up in any gear.
My ECM/TBI harness can be wired two ways:
1) With the VSS hooked up, you would get TCC lock up in 2,3,4 gears. This is how it is, and I like it like this.
2) There was a stand alone wire that could be spliced into the TCC harness that would lock the TCC as soon as the transmission shifted into top gear. I don't like this as much, but might do this temporarily to make sure the TCC can/will still lock up.
To sum it up:
1) No signal from VSS
2) No TCC lock up
3) With scan tool plugged in, transmission in 4th gear, the ECM is not recognizing the transmission is in "Top Gear".
The Jeep runs/idles great, just no TCC lock up
My 3 wire VSS is a "Hall Effect" unit, manufactured by Magnetic Sensor Corp. I emailed them to see if they still make a unit like this, no response yet. I might try to take the sensor apart, maybe it has some contamination inside??
- City
- BROOKLYN
- State
- NY
I had a problem one time with the vss not giving signal.i try everything and the last thing I did was take the vss out and stuck my figure in there. The reluctor ring was not pressed in the right spot so it wasn't picking up the signal. Had to move it over a inch..
Sent from my SM-N910P
Sent from my SM-N910P
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
No reluctor ring on mine
My VSS has a male "stick", same shape as stock speedo cable end, that plugs into the stock Dana 300 driven gear. This "male stick" spins something inside the sensor. My VSS is all self contained inside this external doo-hickey
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I pulled all of my transmission and VSS wiring this weekend, and found the problem - the ground was intermittent, the ground wire was loose in the crimp at the ground strap on the firewall. I found this, of course, after pulling all of the harnesses apart
So, now my VSS is sending a signal, and the TC is locking and unlocking in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear like it should. But, the scan tool is indicating that I am not getting the "Top Gear Engaged" signal to the computer This signal comes from a switch inside the transmission. I am not sure if that matters, probably does. I am still getting a faulty VSS code, too, so I need to see if clearing the codes will straighten everything out
While I was messing with all of the transmission/transfer case wiring, I went ahead and fixed two other issues:
1) I never connected my "4wd" dash light wire to the Dana 300
2) I never wired up my reverse lights
For #1, I just crimped on a female spade terminal and slid it over the Dana 300 single post switch. Crude, but it works. I think I found a connector that will match the factory connector, I will find out this afternoon If it works, I will post up the part #, I think some people were looking for this.
For #2, I "modified" the Lokar "Park/Neutral" switch to work as a reverse light switch:
The Lokar shifter has a raised ridge that will contact the Park/Neutral switch when the shifter is in either position. Reverse is in between these two raised ridges. So, I spaced the switch back, so that it would not hit the Park or Neutral ridge. I then drilled and tapped the shifter, and threaded in a 3mm screw. This screw will make contact with the switch when the shifter is in Reverse, thus completing the circuit and turning on the reverse lights.
And a picture showing the switch and wiring. I ran the wires through a rubber grommet.
The "Park/Neutral" switch is usually used to prevent a vehicle from being started up in gear. I am not worried about this potential safety issue. But, on factory TBI vehicles, this switch is also used to send a signal to the computer that the vehicle is idling in Park or Neutral. From what I have read, the computer adjusts the idle to be different. I do not have any idle issues, but I might make a temporary wire thing from the computer to ground out to see if the idle changes. Maybe this "Park/Neutral" signal will only interfere with the the "In Drive" idle
The more I research/work on this factory TBI stuff, the more I realize how integrated this system is. Besides fuel, it also controls the timing, and transmission functions. The Howell set up does not include any of this stuff
Which leads me back to my "Park/Neutral" switch dilemma:
With a working VSS, the computer will get a 0 MPH reading when the Scrambler is sitting still. Will this VSS signal tell the computer the same thing as if the "Park/Neutral" switch is telling the computer, "Hey, this is the Jeep, I am sitting still, adjust the idle accordingly"???????? Right now, I am idling around 550 RPM in Park, I will have to see where it idles in gear, probably the same. With that being said, I would think the "Park/Neutral" switch signal would want to lessen the idle speed, since the Jeep does not have the same load as it would have like when it is in gear. So, should I be idling slightly higher then 550 when I am in gear, or slightly lower in Park/Neutral
I was going to drive the Scrambler all this week, but I just found two of the three bolts that hold the steering box/shackle hanger to the frame on the driver side lost their heads, need to fix this ASAP
So, now my VSS is sending a signal, and the TC is locking and unlocking in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear like it should. But, the scan tool is indicating that I am not getting the "Top Gear Engaged" signal to the computer
This signal comes from a switch inside the transmission. I am not sure if that matters, probably does. I am still getting a faulty VSS code, too, so I need to see if clearing the codes will straighten everything outWhile I was messing with all of the transmission/transfer case wiring, I went ahead and fixed two other issues:
1) I never connected my "4wd" dash light wire to the Dana 300
2) I never wired up my reverse lights
For #1, I just crimped on a female spade terminal and slid it over the Dana 300 single post switch. Crude, but it works. I think I found a connector that will match the factory connector, I will find out this afternoon
If it works, I will post up the part #, I think some people were looking for this.For #2, I "modified" the Lokar "Park/Neutral" switch to work as a reverse light switch:
The Lokar shifter has a raised ridge that will contact the Park/Neutral switch when the shifter is in either position. Reverse is in between these two raised ridges. So, I spaced the switch back, so that it would not hit the Park or Neutral ridge. I then drilled and tapped the shifter, and threaded in a 3mm screw. This screw will make contact with the switch when the shifter is in Reverse, thus completing the circuit and turning on the reverse lights.
And a picture showing the switch and wiring. I ran the wires through a rubber grommet.
The "Park/Neutral" switch is usually used to prevent a vehicle from being started up in gear. I am not worried about this potential safety issue. But, on factory TBI vehicles, this switch is also used to send a signal to the computer that the vehicle is idling in Park or Neutral. From what I have read, the computer adjusts the idle to be different. I do not have any idle issues, but I might make a temporary wire thing from the computer to ground out to see if the idle changes. Maybe this "Park/Neutral" signal will only interfere with the the "In Drive" idle
The more I research/work on this factory TBI stuff, the more I realize how integrated this system is. Besides fuel, it also controls the timing, and transmission functions. The Howell set up does not include any of this stuff
Which leads me back to my "Park/Neutral" switch dilemma:
With a working VSS, the computer will get a 0 MPH reading when the Scrambler is sitting still. Will this VSS signal tell the computer the same thing as if the "Park/Neutral" switch is telling the computer, "Hey, this is the Jeep, I am sitting still, adjust the idle accordingly"???????? Right now, I am idling around 550 RPM in Park, I will have to see where it idles in gear, probably the same. With that being said, I would think the "Park/Neutral" switch signal would want to lessen the idle speed, since the Jeep does not have the same load as it would have like when it is in gear. So, should I be idling slightly higher then 550 when I am in gear, or slightly lower in Park/Neutral
I was going to drive the Scrambler all this week, but I just found two of the three bolts that hold the steering box/shackle hanger to the frame on the driver side lost their heads, need to fix this ASAP
Scramblin' Man
Basic User
- City
- Ladera Ranch
- State
- CA
This is great info, thanks for posting it. Where did you buy this Mopar conversion kit? I'm having trouble finding one but love your suggestion.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
This is great info, thanks for posting it. Where did you buy this Mopar conversion kit? I'm having trouble finding one but love your suggestion.
This Scrambler, the tan one with a GM 350, has factory GM TBI injection. My red Scrambler has the Mopar MPI kit on the stock 4.2 inline 6
I believe Hesco still sells the MPI kits
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
No, I would not go the Hesco route. The previous owner bought and installed this TBI kit from a company called "Turbo City". The "kit" included a brand new TBI unit and the wiring harness. It is pretty nice. Turbo City no longer handles TBI stuff. This harness is nice, has almost everything a stock GM harness would have.
If I was going to swap TBI on a GM 350, I would just make my own harness. The way that GM made the TBI set up, it already has its own separate harness. Some of the aftermarket harnesses cut out a bunch of stuff that the GM harnesses have, such as the VSS, EGR, Vapor purge, TCC, Park/Neutral, ESC/knock sensor, etc. Now, you might not "have" to have this stuff for the engine to run, but GM included it for a reason
Using the stock GM harness, I have more then just an "electronic carb". Besides the ECM controlling the fuel, it also controls spark timing and torque converter functionality. A manual trans doesn't need the TC stuff, but having the ECM control the fuel AND spark is the way to go IMO
Emissions stuff does not matter where I live, but using the stock GM harness lets you choose if you want to run all the stock emission stuff (EGR and canister purge off the top of my head).To be honest, when I first started this project, I knew very little about TBI. I "assumed" it was a fairly simple/primitive step between carbs and MPI. Now, after seeing how the stock GM TBI works/performs, it is actually fairly advanced. Now, obviously not as efficient/powerful/tunable as MPI, but still a pretty good set up
If I was to pick an aftermarket TBI kit, I would want to know:
1) Does it use/include a VSS. If no, why? The ECM needs this to optimize performance.
2) Does is use/include the ESCM and knock sensor? If no, why? The ECM needs this to control timing to optimize performance.
3) What about the EGR/canister purge solenoids? You might need this stuff to meet emissions.
4) If you are running a 700R4, you need that wiring/functionality for the TC to work. There are ways around this, but using the ECM, you will get TC lock up in 3 and 4th. Third gear lock up is crucial if you tow, big no-no to tow in OD with a 700R4.
It might be a bit more trouble/research, but I would use the stock GM harness/computer. It is then your choice as to how much of the functionality/control you want
- City
- Columbia
- State
- MO
Awesome! Great info, thanks! 👍No, I would not go the Hesco route. The previous owner bought and installed this TBI kit from a company called "Turbo City". The "kit" included a brand new TBI unit and the wiring harness. It is pretty nice. Turbo City no longer handles TBI stuff. This harness is nice, has almost everything a stock GM harness would have.
If I was going to swap TBI on a GM 350, I would just make my own harness. The way that GM made the TBI set up, it already has its own separate harness. Some of the aftermarket harnesses cut out a bunch of stuff that the GM harnesses have, such as the VSS, EGR, Vapor purge, TCC, Park/Neutral, ESC/knock sensor, etc. Now, you might not "have" to have this stuff for the engine to run, but GM included it for a reason
Using the stock GM harness, I have more then just an "electronic carb". Besides the ECM controlling the fuel, it also controls spark timing and torque converter functionality. A manual trans doesn't need the TC stuff, but having the ECM control the fuel AND spark is the way to go IMO
To be honest, when I first started this project, I knew very little about TBI. I "assumed" it was a fairly simple/primitive step between carbs and MPI. Now, after seeing how the stock GM TBI works/performs, it is actually fairly advanced. Now, obviously not as efficient/powerful/tunable as MPI, but still a pretty good set up
If I was to pick an aftermarket TBI kit, I would want to know:
1) Does it use/include a VSS. If no, why? The ECM needs this to optimize performance.
2) Does is use/include the ESCM and knock sensor? If no, why? The ECM needs this to control timing to optimize performance.
3) What about the EGR/canister purge solenoids? You might need this stuff to meet emissions.
4) If you are running a 700R4, you need that wiring/functionality for the TC to work. There are ways around this, but using the ECM, you will get TC lock up in 3 and 4th. Third gear lock up is crucial if you tow, big no-no to tow in OD with a 700R4.
It might be a bit more trouble/research, but I would use the stock GM harness/computer. It is then your choice as to how much of the functionality/control you want
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I got this one back on the road the other day
I love not having to fight rust. Two of the three bolt heads that hold on the the driver side shackle hanger/steering box broke off. I was able to slightly lower the steering box bracket, after removing the shackle hanger, and there was a little bit of each of the bolts sticking down past the bottom of the frame. A little bit of heat, and I unscrewed both bolts out of the frame with a pair of vice grips. I went ahead and changed all of the shackle hanger bolts out. Since I already broke two of the original bolts, cheap insurance
The steering box is leaking a bit, I'll fix that eventually, too
I love not having to fight rust. Two of the three bolt heads that hold on the the driver side shackle hanger/steering box broke off. I was able to slightly lower the steering box bracket, after removing the shackle hanger, and there was a little bit of each of the bolts sticking down past the bottom of the frame. A little bit of heat, and I unscrewed both bolts out of the frame with a pair of vice grips. I went ahead and changed all of the shackle hanger bolts out. Since I already broke two of the original bolts, cheap insurance
The steering box is leaking a bit, I'll fix that eventually, too
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Dana 300 4WD Light/Switch Connector
This Scrambler was missing the reverse light/4WD Light harness. Since I have a 700R4, a stock reverse light harness would not work anyway, so no big deal. I just made my reverse lights functional a few posts above. But, I am about to undo the reverse lights to hook up a Park/Neutral switch for the PCM.
Anyway, I have never hooked up the speedometer mounted 4wd light. I was missing the factory dana 300 switch connector. This is what I used, cost less then $5:
And installed:
It fits a hair loose. But, when I checked the stock connector on my red Scrambler, the fit is about the same. I might add some solder to the Dana 300 switch post to make it a hair fatter to make the connector fit a bit tighter. Or, try to gently compress the new fitting to fit tighter around the post. It is a hair loose, but no looser then the factory connectors on my other Scramblers
If you look up this part number on NAPA's website, you can find a list of vehicles it is used on. Looks like it is used on a bunch of late 90's GM vans for a brake fluid warning switch. Maybe you can find them in junk yards, too
This Scrambler was missing the reverse light/4WD Light harness. Since I have a 700R4, a stock reverse light harness would not work anyway, so no big deal. I just made my reverse lights functional a few posts above. But, I am about to undo the reverse lights to hook up a Park/Neutral switch for the PCM.
Anyway, I have never hooked up the speedometer mounted 4wd light. I was missing the factory dana 300 switch connector. This is what I used, cost less then $5:
And installed:
It fits a hair loose. But, when I checked the stock connector on my red Scrambler, the fit is about the same. I might add some solder to the Dana 300 switch post to make it a hair fatter to make the connector fit a bit tighter. Or, try to gently compress the new fitting to fit tighter around the post. It is a hair loose, but no looser then the factory connectors on my other Scramblers
If you look up this part number on NAPA's website, you can find a list of vehicles it is used on. Looks like it is used on a bunch of late 90's GM vans for a brake fluid warning switch. Maybe you can find them in junk yards, too
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I did a little "redneck engineering" with regards to the "Park/Neutral" sensor. After examining my ECM connector, I realized that slot "B10", the space where the signal wire for the "Park/Neutral" sensor goes was empty. So, I inserted a wire into this "B10" slot and ran it to ground.
The scan tool would now read "Park/Neutral Indicated" when the wire was grounded, and it would rear "Park/Neutral Not Indicated" when the wire was no longer grounded. So, it works, but what does it do??
With my PCM/chip/vehicle, not much. I "thought" it would cause the idle to be slightly higher when the vehicle is in "Park or Neutral". It does not. The only thing that I could see this input does is slightly (50-75 RPM indicated on scan tool), and temporarily (3-4 seconds MAX), raise/flare the idle RPM, when the ground is disconnected, i.e. when you shift out of Park into Reverse or out of Neutral into Drive. This makes sense, the load on the engine does change when the transmission is shifted into the drive gears, so I guess I can see how this would be beneficial in some cases. On my Scrambler, the RPM does not drop, the engine does not want to stall when shifted out of Park or Neutral, so this input does nothing for me. For now, I am not going to permanently install this sensor wire, I can not see any benefit.
The mechanic at work had the factory GM service manuals for 1991 GM 1500 series trucks, so I borrowed them, lots of great information
Anyway, my only issue/gripe with my TBI system is the base idle RPM, I am idling at around 500 RPM(varies between 475-525), in Park or Drive. The engine runs smooth, it does not want to die or stall, but that base idle RPM seems too low to me, I could be wrong??
The FSM only indicates a base idle RPM in drive of 500 RPM, which I meet. The idle RPM in Park is on the under hood decal, which I do not have. From the FSM and the scan tool, my IAC counts, O2 sensor readings, everything is right where it needs to be while I am idling, so maybe this 500 RPM is correct??
And, my only real issue with the 500 RPM idle is that if you let its it there and idle for several minutes, the exhaust smells slightly rich. Not bad, just a bit. The scan tool does not indicate a Rich condition, the IAC counts are where they should be, block learn and all the other feedback stuff is righ according to the FSM, so maybe this is normal?? The lack of a CAT and/or the Air injection system may have something to do with this too??
I have approximately 300 miles on this new engine, so far so good. I filled up once, averaging 14.5 MPG, all stop and go city driving, so I am happy with that. I am going to continue daily driving this Scrambler to break in the new engine.
Hopefully it will be ready for sand Blast
The scan tool would now read "Park/Neutral Indicated" when the wire was grounded, and it would rear "Park/Neutral Not Indicated" when the wire was no longer grounded. So, it works, but what does it do??
With my PCM/chip/vehicle, not much. I "thought" it would cause the idle to be slightly higher when the vehicle is in "Park or Neutral". It does not. The only thing that I could see this input does is slightly (50-75 RPM indicated on scan tool), and temporarily (3-4 seconds MAX), raise/flare the idle RPM, when the ground is disconnected, i.e. when you shift out of Park into Reverse or out of Neutral into Drive. This makes sense, the load on the engine does change when the transmission is shifted into the drive gears, so I guess I can see how this would be beneficial in some cases. On my Scrambler, the RPM does not drop, the engine does not want to stall when shifted out of Park or Neutral, so this input does nothing for me. For now, I am not going to permanently install this sensor wire, I can not see any benefit.
The mechanic at work had the factory GM service manuals for 1991 GM 1500 series trucks, so I borrowed them, lots of great information
Anyway, my only issue/gripe with my TBI system is the base idle RPM, I am idling at around 500 RPM(varies between 475-525), in Park or Drive. The engine runs smooth, it does not want to die or stall, but that base idle RPM seems too low to me, I could be wrong??
The FSM only indicates a base idle RPM in drive of 500 RPM, which I meet. The idle RPM in Park is on the under hood decal, which I do not have. From the FSM and the scan tool, my IAC counts, O2 sensor readings, everything is right where it needs to be while I am idling, so maybe this 500 RPM is correct??
And, my only real issue with the 500 RPM idle is that if you let its it there and idle for several minutes, the exhaust smells slightly rich. Not bad, just a bit. The scan tool does not indicate a Rich condition, the IAC counts are where they should be, block learn and all the other feedback stuff is righ according to the FSM, so maybe this is normal?? The lack of a CAT and/or the Air injection system may have something to do with this too??
I have approximately 300 miles on this new engine, so far so good. I filled up once, averaging 14.5 MPG, all stop and go city driving, so I am happy with that. I am going to continue daily driving this Scrambler to break in the new engine.
Hopefully it will be ready for sand Blast