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spankrjs's Biloxi, MS '83 Scrambler

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I placed magnets inside the grill, near the "cut/drill zone" to catch most of the shavings:

20210906_143034.jpg

Same procedure on the 2nd hole.

Original 1976 grill:

20210906_143057.jpg

1983 grill:

20210906_150258.jpg

Tape and transfer lines on the 1976 grill:

20210906_150313.jpg

Another "squirrel" moment - note the driver side strut rod attaching tab on both the 1976 grill and my 1983 green grill. On my 1983's red grill, the tab is vertical, as opposed to at a 45 degree angle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

20210906_150331.jpg

Again, the existing hole almost fell exactly into where the larger hole needs to go:

20210906_150700.jpg

Confusing, but I shifted my lines downward to incorporate all of the existing hole, then made an inner line to mark/drill so I would not go oversize:

20210906_152153.jpg

This hole was a PIA due to the "stamped creases" that were in the way. But, a hole saw took car of part of it, a drill did some more:

20210906_154257.jpg

Dremel cut off wheel took care of the rest:

20210906_155529.jpg

And the magic of the internet, done:

20210906_162212.jpg

Again, about 30 minutes with Dremel/files/sand paper, a nice beautiful hole!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Installing the snorkel hose plastic part to the grill:

20210906_170935.jpg

Bad picture, it is NOT that crooked LOL!!!!!!!!

The stamped creases will cause an air leak:

20210906_170940.jpg

Glued some foam inside the creases, so when I screw the plastic piece back on, the gaps are closed:

20210906_173222.jpg

Also painted the raw/cut edges with a small brush:

20210906_185530.jpg

Most people would not have to do all of this, but since I have a 1976 grill, all this was necessary.

I should be able to finish up this project in the next few days, the hard work is finished!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's it for now :wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
It only takes about an hour to remove the fender. In the future, if I install the Wolfe steering column bearing (amazingly the OEM lower bearing is still good) or upgrade to a Borgeson steering shaft (again, the OEM is still good) I will definitely pull the fender back off. It also makes intake/exhaust manifold work much easier!!!

20210907_171744.jpg

20210907_171756.jpg

Power brake stuff really gets in the way. Manual brakes allow way more room on this side.

Anyway, the new hole in the side of the grill for the front light harness worked out perfect.

20210907_191141.jpg

The air intake hose hole appears good, too:

20210907_191149.jpg

Back where I started:

20210907_191200.jpg

Should hopefully be able to finish this little project up this weekend.

That's it for now.
 

Ron84cj

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
West Bend
State
WI
It only takes about an hour to remove the fender. In the future, if I install the Wolfe steering column bearing (amazingly the OEM lower bearing is still good) or upgrade to a Borgeson steering shaft (again, the OEM is still good) I will definitely pull the fender back off. It also makes intake/exhaust manifold work much easier!!!

View attachment 96952

View attachment 96953
So what you're saying is we should have done this to Bigwaltons when we were on the beach 😁.

In all seriousness though aren't you more likely to have rust issues or doesn't the paint seem to be disturbed too much when you remove the fender? Every jeep I parted out had serious rust where the fenders bolt on to the tub. After seeing that I've always been scared to remove the fenders and/or grill unless I really needed to. Maybe it's just me in my northerner mindset paranoid about rust. It really is amazing how much rust is on mine in various areas considering I've never exposed it to salt. Very frustrating.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
So what you're saying is we should have done this to Bigwaltons when we were on the beach 😁.

In all seriousness though aren't you more likely to have rust issues or doesn't the paint seem to be disturbed too much when you remove the fender? Every jeep I parted out had serious rust where the fenders bolt on to the tub. After seeing that I've always been scared to remove the fenders and/or grill unless I really needed to. Maybe it's just me in my northerner mindset paranoid about rust. It really is amazing how much rust is on mine in various areas considering I've never exposed it to salt. Very frustrating.

YES, on BigWaltons "Beach Adventure", it would have been so much easier to reinstall the intake/exhaust manifold bolts WITHOUT that pesky fender in the way :D

As for rust between the body/fender/grill, no real worries :shrug:

This Green Scrambler was repainted probably over 20 years ago. When they repainted it, they left the fenders/body assembled. When I did the engine swap a few years ago, I removed the fenders. They had never been removed, they still had some OEM body caulk at the top(s). If you look at the above pictures, some minor surface rust around the bolt holes, but no real concerns. Next time I pull the fender, I might brush paint some primer/paint over the bare metal, but not overly worried about it.

On my red Scrambler, I pulled the whole thing apart when it was repainted. When I reassembled it, I simply bolted all the painted metal components back together, nothing between the tub and fenders, or grill and fenders. When I pulled it back a apart a few years ago for it's engine swap, all the paint was still 100% perfect, no issues at all.

I guess it depends on the climate and the paint job?

It is humid down here, but no road salt. That being said, if I would have left that stripped air cleaner paint-less for a few days, the humidity would have completely flash rusted it.


Red Scrambler, 2016 when I pulled the engine, post #1422 :


No issues with the paint. I pulled this same fender off a year or two ago to cut in the louver, no issues at all.
 
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spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
My air cleaner project has had a slight delay.

I was not happy with my paint job, there were some "bumps/excessive orange peel" from the first paint job. This was due primarily from painting it outside, fighting the wind.

So, did a light wet sand with 400 grit:

20210910_163853.jpg

Used the Harbor Freight Trailer/Paint booth, to protect from the wind, much better:

20210910_173529.jpg

20210911_122852.jpg

I painted them Friday, so i should be able to get back on this pretty soon,

Started another project on this vehicle, but will not start posting about it until I finish the air cleaner install.

That's it for now :wave:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
99% finished with installing the OEM air cleaner assembly back on the Mopar MPI equipped 258.

Some of the parts, did not use all of this stuff, but had to start somewhere:

20210918_131737.jpg

The repainted OEM air cleaner assembly:

20210918_131757.jpg

Getting rid of my "RedneckRay Cold Air Intake" set up LOL:

20210918_131811.jpg

This was a key piece, BUT it ended up not working out for me, more on this in a bit:

20210918_131831.jpg

The OEM valve cover mounted air cleaner mount:

20210918_141826.jpg

Some old and new parts:

20210918_141834.jpg

How I assembled it. I ended up removing the washer from in between the metal bracket and the blue plastic disc, it was not needed. I bought a new round rubber disc from McCaster Carr, drilled a hole smaller than 1/4" through the center. The rubber disc fits tight around the stud, so it does not want to slide downward. I will probably install a 1/4" "push nut/washer" on here in the future.

20210918_142614.jpg

Installed on the valve cover:

20210918_142824.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I replaced the dried out original air cleaner lid seal with this, seems to work well:

20210918_143731.jpg

20210918_143740.jpg

20210918_143744.jpg

When I bolted on the OEM air cleaner to the valve cover, you can see the "problem":

20210918_144111.jpg

I do not have a stock 258 powered Jeep here (i.e. original intake and carburetor)to compare to, but two issues:

1) I presume the 4.0 intake is wider than the original carburetor, thus kicking the throttle body further outward
2) I presume the OEM carburetor is taller than the throttle body (and my throttle body has a 1" spacer underneath it)

Neither problem is insurmountable.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
On the offset, easy enough. I built an "adapter plate" out of a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum to move the valve cover mount outboard by 1-1/4":

20210918_151706.jpg

I drilled and tapped the plate (#10-32) on the three holes that will hold the air cleaner base mount to the plate. I slightly over drilled the three holes that will secure the plate to the valve cover to give me some "wiggle".

20210918_164926.jpg

Mounted up:

20210918_165651.jpg

I chose #10-32 as the attaching screw size for several reasons:

1) I had them in hand
2) With only an 1/8" thick plate to tap, the fine thread would give me more threads.

It is holding fine. I did "shorten" my in hand bolts by installing a nut under the head. The plate sits flat to the valve cover, so the bolts can not protrude through the bottom of it. Other ways to skin this cat, this is how I did it.

20210918_165658.jpg

Air cleaner installed. The offset problem is fixed, BUT the vertical difference is not:

20210918_170616.jpg

20210918_170622.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Back to the store, I bought (x2)of the 2.5"-3" by 2-1/4" tall silicone rubber hoses and (x1) 4" tall 3" plastic sleeve:

20210918_231601.jpg

Cut the plastic sleeve down to 2-1/4":

20210919_103336.jpg

the 2.5" to 3" "adapter" sleeve is around the throttle body, the 3" hose slides over it:

20210919_103349.jpg

Slid the plastic spacer in, then the other hose, the throttle body is now connected to the air cleaner assembly:

20210919_115242.jpg

The 4.5" height seems "high", BUT over 2" of that height is hose slid over either the air cleaner snorkel mount or the throttle body, leaveing less then a 2" gap between the air cleaner and throttle body.

I have a better solution to this already worked out, more on this later.

Mocked up:

20210919_115251.jpg

I have a 1" spacer under the throttle body, AND the corresponding spacers underneath the throttle cable bracket. The air cleaner rests on top of it. Not a problem, not ideal either?

20210919_115334.jpg

The problem with sliding the entire assembly 1-1/4" over:

20210919_115350.jpg

I want to reuse the original pulse air ports on the base of the air cleaner. These two ports supply "filtered air", the only two ports on the original air cleaner that do.

I need " filtered air" for two things:

1) the PCV system fresh air intake hose
2) I want to discharge the vapor canister purge line into the center of the air cleaner so that the vapors are sucked up directly into the throttle body and not just discharged into the air cleaner housing somewhere down stream (no reason to filter this discharge)

I think I can solve this problem too, more in a bit.
 
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spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Back to easy stuff, plugging the unused holes in the OEM air cleaner assembly.

Plugs I bought:

20210919_141923.jpg

They all worked perfect EXCEPT the 1/4" plugs. Ideally, they would fit a bit tighter in the "up and down" range. The ones I purchased would work better on slightly thicker steel. You could use screws to seal these holes, too.

The 2" metal cap referenced above, used to seal this unused port (hot air hose inlet):

20210919_141934.jpg

And rubber plugs everywhere else:

20210919_141940.jpg

20210919_141952.jpg

20210919_141959.jpg

I installed a "dummy" bolt/wing nut/rubber gasket/washer" to seal the old "carburetor to air cleaner lid hole":

20210919_142913.jpg

I also installed a nylock nut above the wing nut, just for safety sake. I do not think that if the bolt fell into the throttle body it could get sucked into the engine, but why take a chance?

20210919_143405.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Back to the old pulse air ports on the base of the air cleaner.

Bought this part:

20210919_143444.jpg

Slid a piece of 5/8" heater hose over one of the tubes:

20210919_144056.jpg

Voila, I can now easily hook up to one of the two ports.

20210919_144110.jpg

Once I found the angle I needed, I tightened this down with a hose clamp.

I was concerned that sliding over a tight fitting hose over this 90 degree fitting COULD collapse the hole. So, I cut a piece of brass tubing, slid it in the hole, no more worries.

20210919_155922.jpg

Marking and notching out my adapter plate to clear the port:

20210919_144900.jpg

20210919_162428.jpg

Works like a charm.

20210919_163722.jpg

The other port is plugged for now, BUT I am 99% certain I can get to it when I do another mod, more on this later.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
For now, I reinstalled an OEM "PCV breather assembly" into the air cleaner to connect the PC fresh air tube to.

20210919_154859.jpg

A flat edge against a round wall does not seal well, note the gap in the picture above.

I installed some double sided tape to seal this gap. Not pretty, but it works.

20210919_154911.jpg

20210919_155540.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
99% installed, just need to hook up the PCV fresh air hose to the air cleaner housing (did not have 1/2" 90 degree fitting):

20210919_164616.jpg

Out of curiosity, I put a level across the lid, pretty damn level:

20210919_165044.jpg

I ordered the following part:


This will cure four major "issues" I have:

1) This single hose will take the place of 4 parts (two couplers, one reducer ring, one plastic sleeve) AND eliminate two hose clamps
2) It will look better
3) This 1/2" offset will allow me slide the air cleaner housing over just enough to gain access to the other pulse air tube port on the bottom
4) I can remove the throttle body spacer

This new hose is 6" tall, I currently have 4.5" of hose. BUT, when I eliminate the throttle body spacer, I will need 5.5". I can trim a 1/4" off each end of the new hose, perfect fit.

I have not started up the engine yet, but I am pretty confident I have not degraded the performance over my old open air K&N hot air intake system.

A bunch of work, some wasted money (on the currently installed silicone hoses, the new hose will work better, but I had to start somewhere), BUT I think it was worth it to improve the looks, and more importantly, I can run an OEM air filter. :twocents::shrug:
 
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spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
One potential issue with the silicone intake hose:

Silicone hose is generally NOT fuel and oil safe.

Why is this important? Theoretically, only air will be flowing through this intake hose. BUT, it is downstream of the fuel vapor purge line. Is this purged fuel vapor that will flow through this hose enough to degrade? I seriously doubt it, BUT it is worth a note.

My vapor purge canister only purges while the engine is running. So, a small amount of air with fuel vapor will be mixed with a much greater volume of clean air, and it is all sucked down the throttle body super fast. So, not a lot of vapor, minimal exposure time. should be fine :twocents:

Probably over thinking things :shrug: But, I will monitor this hose for any signs of degradation over time.
 
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spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I love this! Do you think there is a way to fit a stock air cleaner on a 258 Howell conversion?
Anything is possible. I don't have a Howell set up here to mess with. The last Howell equipped CJ-7 I messed with was a power brake model, but it had an aftermarket open air filter on it.

IIRC, the OD of the throttle body is fairly large, not sure if you could neck down enough to adapt? Also, the TBI throttle body is fairly tall, so you might run into vertical clearance issues with the hood?

It might be easier to adapt a closed GM air cleaner assembly to the Howell, even if you had to reweld/rework the opening in the base to offset the cleaner over away from the master cylinder?
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Bought this pack of vacuum fittings (it originally had four pieces inside, I used two of them):

20210920_181557.jpg

Used the 90 degree fitting on the PCV filter port:

20210920_181604.jpg

Used this fitting on the valve cover fitting:

20210920_181610.jpg

And finished, for now:

20210920_181624.jpg

This is just temporary, I hope to hook up this line to the other old pulse air port on the bottom of the air cleaner housing, once I obtain/install the new offset silicone hose.

Fired it up, took it for a drive, worked/performed perfectly. A few observations, all subjective:

1) engine seems quieter at idle
2) engine is definitely more quiet when accelerating hard ( the old set up made a cool sucking sound when you nailed the gas)
3) did not hurt the engine performance at all

Took a little work, some head scratching, but I am happy with this conversion. Looks better, probably provides a cooler air intake charge, but more importantly, I can now use a regular easily obtainable air filter, and just toss the old one when it gets dirty.

My red Scrambler has a 4.0, but it's valve cover does not easily lend itself to this conversion (no tapped holes for air cleaner mount, and the oil fill cap is dead center). On that Scrambler, I will probably "punt", take the easy way out, and install a TJ air cleaner assembly.

That's it for now :wave:
 

jpnmaine

Well-known member
Member
City
East Wilton
State
ME
Very nice..I used a 97 wrangler air assembly on my 5. It goes over to the passenger side and mounted very nicely on the fender close to the grill.. Turned the snorkel from the filter box up, catches air just under the hood.
 
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