spankrjs's Biloxi, MS '83 Scrambler

[spankrjs]

I finally received the pilot bearing that I ordered from the Jeep dealership. It is a needle bearing, NOT a bushing, so it will be stored on the shelf, probably never used by me:



The rear differential cover/gasket has been leaking for awhile, finally got off my butt and installed a new cork gasket, problem solved:



Still need to trim those rear u-bolts!!!!


The metal strip that attaches the hard top to the windshield frame has been loose and rattling for awhile, the two passenger side rivets were loose. I re-riveted this a few years back, but the passenger side will not stay tight.

The problem: these two holes are wallowed out to a hair over 1/4":



The tree other holes are still 3/16", so they will hold the OEM sized 3/16" rivets:



A few years ago I picked up some small Riv-Nuts from a small local hardware store. They shut down, and I could not find them anywhere locally, on a Saturday, when I wanted to fix this problem.

While at Ace Hardware I found these well nuts and decided to give them a shot:



I don't know the exact model number, but they have a 8-32 threaded insert inside, measure 5/16" OD. These have a "wide head".

A well nut is like a rivet nut or a jack nut. Stick it in the hole, tighten the screw in the center, it pulls the rear of the fastener toward the hole and outward, creating a threaded insert inside a blind hole. The biggest difference, a well nut is rubber, not metal. Since we are dealing with fiberglass, this might be a plus???

I drilled all 5 holes to 5/16":



The well nuts slipped tightly inside the holes:



Installed the metal strip and tightened up the five 8-32 screws, and the five sheet metal screws in the windshield frame.



Now, I have only drove around with the well nuts for about four hours. So far, so good, including interstate speeds. No more annoying rattle, all fasteners staying tight.

Is this the best fix, I don't know. Is it working so far, yes. This metal strip was originally attached to the fiberglass with aluminum pop rivets. Over time and vibration/wind force, the aluminum wears the fiberglass holes larger until the pop rivets no longer holds. I am now using rubber against fiberglass, so hopefully the rubber will not wear the fiberglass holes larger. Being rubber, maybe this fastener type will cope better with the forces against it? The rubber will give a bit, but still hold tight.

I will post up on the well nuts performance, good or bad, after a longer trial run. For now, for $15 and about 30 minutes, I am happy.

If this does not hold up I will probably fill the entire top header with marine epoxy and epoxy in place some female threaded inserts. I am hoping the well nuts hold up!!!! My red Scrambler currently has blue plastic drywall inserts crammed into the top. This was a last ditch repair before heading home from Michigan last year. Amazingly it has held up!!!! But, if the well nut experiment works out in this Scrambler I will probably install well nuts inside the red Scramblers hard top, too.

 

[spankrjs]

I started on one more repair/modification/improvement today, one I have been needing to do for awhile:



The OEM steering shaft on this Scrambler has excessive play in the upper "u-joint". There is no way to rebuild this joint, unlike the lower joint. Since this Jeep has larger tires, only 31's but still larger then the OEM 235's, might as well upgrade!! I have installed and been very happy with the Borgeson steering shafts, so decided to install one of their shafts on this Scrambler, too.

I bought a shaft with the "vibration damper" option this time. I have always used the shafts without this feature in the past, never had a vibration issue. Just wanted to see the difference...

I have also been driving around with a Wolfe Engineering upgraded lower steering column bearing assembly inside the center console for a few years, what better time then now to get it installed, too!!!

Between the play in the upper joint and the play in the lower steering column bearing I probably have about 3/8" dead space in the wheel. Not terrible, but annoying, especially since my red Scrambler/Spring Special have no play in the steering.

The Borgeson steering shafts come unpainted/uncoated. So, first order of business is to get some paint on it. I have had great luck with this paint, and had some left over from when I painted the TNT Customs spare tire carrier, so I decided to paint the steering shaft the same "Cast Iron" color:





Did some yard work this morning, paint in the afternoon. The high this afternoon was 67, only 50% humidity, so perfect afternoon to spray some paint, in true RedneckRay fashion!!



Cold and rain will resume later this week, so plenty of garage time in my future.

I installed the Wolfe Engineering column bearings in my Red Scrambler/Spring Special awhile back. Both these Jeeps (at the time) were non power brake models (SS still is, red Scrambler was upgraded). Without a brake booster in the way piece of cake. With a brake booster in the way it will be more fun!!!!



The other issue: to remove the OEM intermediate steering shaft either the PS box needs to be loosened up from the frame or the steering column needs to be loosened up from the firewall to gain enough slack to get the steering shaft out. Neither of those options are great. I will usually loosen the column, BUT the addition of factory style AC under the dash makes this less appealing, too.

Option 3: cut the OEM steering shaft in half with a sawzall/grinder/torch/etc. Now, I would normally frown upon this, especially if the OEM part was still salvageable/rebuildable. Since this shaft's upper non-replaceable joint is shot, no harm no foul. I foresee a Sawzall in it's future!!!


That's it for now!!!

 

[wm69]

I would think that bearing would be much preferable to a bushing there, given the nature of it, but I certainly wouldn't go tearing it back apart to put it in there.

 

[xatu40]

It looks like it is used to sitting on a shelf

 

[spankrjs]

Wasted about an hour of my life last night trying to remove the OEM steering shaft without loosening the column or lowering the PS box. No dice. Even with the lower coupler fully collapsed I was still about an 1/8" too long.

Tonight, slid the column coupler back into place and cut the OEM steering shaft in half with a sawzall in about 30 seconds:



A new blade on the sawzall and good steady pressure, the saw cut through the shaft like butter, no vibrations.

With the shaft off of the column, this fell out:



That is part of the OEM lower steering column bearing retainer.

I found this puller in my toolbox. No idea of where it came from or when I obtained it. With a socket on the end to hold it tight against the hollow column shaft it pulled the bearing right off:



The crappy OEM lower steering column bearing assembly:



The super awesome Wolff Engineering lower steering column bearing system. Much better/beefier/slop free, highly recommended:



With the old parts removed, time for some clean up. This is before, how I found it:



And after about 5 minutes with some emery cloth and brake parts cleaner. This Scrambler/lower column are really clean/rust free:



Not going to do a step by step, I've done it before, will add a link. The brake booster makes it hard to take pictures, but the install is not that much harder.

It is important to make sure that the lower tube portion of the column has not spread. If the Wolff cartridge bearing does not fit tight inside the column you need to reshape it. A simple solution: 1.5" conduit clamp I had in my junk bin (I use these to clamp external fuel pumps to the frame).





The column is closer to 1.75 ID but this clamp worked perfectly to "re-round" the lower column housing.

Quick mock up/test fit: cartridge bearing has slight interference fit inside the lower column, the external retaining ring fits snugly around the exterior of the lower column tube.



I just need to add some lock tite to a few set screws and finish up this new lower column bearing install.

That's it for now!!

 

[barrys]

That is a faucet handle puller and also a GM steering column lower bearing puller.

 

[spankrjs]

More work on the lower steering column/Borgeson steering shaft install.

The Borgeson instructions don't mention this, but I think it is needed. I install the two ends on the shaft, tighten up the set screws to mark the shaft. I then carefully center punch the set screw marks and drill a shallow hole a hair wider than the OD of the set screw. This gives the set screws something to bite into. I do this to all four holes on the shaft:





A drill press aids in this work. I free handed it by clamping the shaft in the vice. Regardless, kind of a PIA because two of the holes are on the rounded "D" shaped part of the shaft. Careful center punching and drilling is needed so the indentations line up on both planes, like the picture below. The side set screw is in its divot and you can see how the upper threaded hole lines up with its drilled divot on the shaft.



I put red lock-tite on all set screws and jam nuts.



I then temporarily install the shaft and use the set screws to mark the steering box splined shaft and the steering column splined shaft for their drilled "divots":



On the upper shaft, and the lower, not necessary to bottom the couplers out. For one, they will have full spline engagement before they 100% bottom out. And, if you bottom them all the way out the shaft could bind against the universal joints. The picture below is the upper coupler on the steering column. It is not bottomed all the way against the steering column/lower column bearing. No need, full spline engagement.



The Borgeson instructions tell you not to install the set screws on the existing shaft flats. Probably a good idea. I will typically install the set screws 180 out from the original bolt notches.

Anyway, two more divots to drill, reinstall the shaft and I will be done with these two steering system upgrades.

 

[wm69]

More work on the lower steering column/Borgeson steering shaft install.

The Borgeson instructions don't mention this, but I think it is needed. I install the two ends on the shaft, tighten up the set screws to mark the shaft. I then carefully center punch the set screw marks and drill a shallow hole a hair wider than the OD of the set screw. This gives the set screws something to bite into. I do this to all four holes on the shaft:

View attachment 108060

View attachment 108061

A drill press aids in this work. I free handed it by clamping the shaft in the vice. Regardless, kind of a PIA because two of the holes are on the rounded "D" shaped part of the shaft. Careful center punching and drilling is needed so the indentations line up on both planes, like the picture below. The side set screw is in its divot and you can see how the upper threaded hole lines up with its drilled divot on the shaft.

View attachment 108062

I put red lock-tite on all set screws and jam nuts.

View attachment 108063

I then temporarily install the shaft and use the set screws to mark the steering box splined shaft and the steering column splined shaft for their drilled "divots":

View attachment 108064

On the upper shaft, and the lower, not necessary to bottom the couplers out. For one, they will have full spline engagement before they 100% bottom out. And, if you bottom them all the way out the shaft could bind against the universal joints. The picture below is the upper coupler on the steering column. It is not bottomed all the way against the steering column/lower column bearing. No need, full spline engagement.

View attachment 108065

The Borgeson instructions tell you not to install the set screws on the existing shaft flats. Probably a good idea. I will typically install the set screws 180 out from the original bolt notches.

Anyway, two more divots to drill, reinstall the shaft and I will be done with these two steering system upgrades.

Perhaps I should spend more time looking at your post, but don't you have to grind on the splines to get the bolt in place that holds the shaft on the column and box?

Been a long time since I've dropped a steering box, but the wife gave me a Borgeson shaft a couple of years ago that I need to install (along with a MORE steering box mount). Seems like I remember someone saying the splines and cutout didn't match up., maybe the factory relieved area of the splines wasn't on the same side as the set screw that apparently holds the shaft in place?

 

[Chamba]

My Borgeson shaft fit without mods and I've got the MORE mount. I only wish I'd drilled it like Spanky.... maybe when I next take it off. I find most things he's done after me make me wish I'd see his stuff before

 

[spankrjs]

Perhaps I should spend more time looking at your post, but don't you have to grind on the splines to get the bolt in place that holds the shaft on the column and box?

Been a long time since I've dropped a steering box, but the wife gave me a Borgeson shaft a couple of years ago that I need to install (along with a MORE steering box mount). Seems like I remember someone saying the splines and cutout didn't match up., maybe the factory relieved area of the splines wasn't on the same side as the set screw that apparently holds the shaft in place?

The factory round cut outs, on the PS box shaft and the column shaft, are both too large of a relief to really grab the set screws. I position the Borgeson shaft set screw holes 180 from the OEM bolt relief cuts, drill into the spline to make a set screw divot.

 

[spankrjs]

My Borgeson shaft fit without mods and I've got the MORE mount. I only wish I'd drilled it like Spanky.... maybe when I next take it off. I find most things he's done after me make me wish I'd see his stuff before

Make sure you at least drill the PS box shaft, the Borgeson coupler can come loose here, don't ask me how I know!! I have also had a factory lower coupler fall apart and leave me with no steering, so six one way half dozen the other!!

 

[spankrjs]

Finished the Borgeson steering shaft installation tonight.

Marking, center punching, and drilling a divot on the steering box shaft. Looks like I am 90 degrees from the OEM bolt notch, not 180. Regardless, just make sure not to put the set screw on the OEM notch. This is a fun one to drill, face full of metal chips!!!



And the steering column shaft. No face full of metal chips on this one, but a PIA to get to, no matter how you turn the shaft.



And finished, hard to see it with all the other stuff present on the driver side.



Finished up, but rain today/tonight/tomorrow, so no test drive till Sunday :-( That's it for now!!!

 

[spankrjs]

I guess this one got jealous because I was working on the red one!! Went to go for a drive this morning, before I left my driveway I smelled something funny, looked down and saw this:



Yep, heater core gave up the ghost. The heater core I thought about proactively swapping out a few years ago BEFORE I installed air conditioning. Well, at least I had the part on the shelf!!!

So, the under dash AC unit brings a whole new level of suck to this job. Not the end of the world, but still a PIA. I had to pull out the passenger seat, and remove the small portion of the heater box that sits in front of the fans "squirrel cage", to get just enough room to manipulate the heater box out of there. Definitely a patience building exercise!!!



Rust free floors and firewall. Surprisingly clean back there:



Heater box was very clean, just a little dusty/dirty. No leafs, pine straw, or turds!!





The heater core that was leaking was a copper unit. Not OEM, it had some type of "inspected by number three" sticker on it. Not a bunch of goop on the case, but someone had been in here before. There was a small crack on the side of the little plastic front piece that goes in front of the fan, side facing the side of the tub. I little goop sealed this small crack up. No real need to restore or rebuild this box, just a quick swap and go.

But, seeing how this is a PIA, especially with the under dash AC unit, no way I was going to swap in the new aluminum heater core without putting it on the RedneckRay test stand, especially after I had to put a pretty hefty tweak to the hose nipples to get the back plate to line up correctly!!!



If someone has a better way to test heater cores before installing them I'm all ears. This is pretty bizarre looking, but it works. I hook up the core, fire up the engine, let it run for about 10 minutes. No leaks, should be good to go!!!

And with the magic of the internet, finished!!!



As much as I complain, really wasn't too bad, took about 4 hours start to finish, and that included lunch.

Took it on a 3 hour test drive, no leaks, heater works even better than before, problem solved.



That's it for now

 

[FLCJ8]

The heater core I thought about proactively swapping out a few years ago BEFORE I installed air conditioning.

So I imagine you did the blower motor upgrade while you had it all apart this time.

 

[spankrjs]

So I imagine you did the blower motor upgrade while you had it all apart this time.

That would have made too much sense

 

[gpassida]

Damn. Four hours is impressive! Nice job!

 

[spankrjs]

Couldn't leave well enough alone, so went back and fixed something that has been bugging me:



I have been using plastic hose adapters, 3/4 to 5/8, on my heater hoses. Works fine, looks meh.

Replaced both hearer hoses with these:





I always jam a 3/8 drive 3/4 deep socket to open up the fat end of the hose that goes on the water pump. The water pump outlet is close to 7/8, and the 3/4 socket is the pretty close.

My AC compressor/alternator bracket makes it fun to get to the water pump outlet, which also happens to be the only PIA connector out of the 4 ends. Was able to get the hose over the outlet after a brief fight, no further disassembly needed, so happy about that.



A bit of effort, and about $80 for the two hoses, but it made me happy!!!



That's it for now!!

 

[Chamba]

I bought the JeepAir underdash heater/ air con unit in hopes to avoid exactly this scenario. You make it look easy but if I were to do it it would be far less graceful.

 

[spankrjs]

Worked outside all week, plus yesterday until the brush mower engine blew up, so goof off day today!!!



94 outside, with humidity feels like 107, so took the AC equipped Scrambler for a drive for a couple of hours.



Happy to say the AC works perfectly and no engine "vapor locking" issues like I had awhile back. The crank position sensor must have been the issue because the engine performed perfectly today, as it has all summer/last summer. If you sit and idle for a few minutes the engine temperature gauge will creep up about two needles worth closer to hot then normal, but drops back to its usual location once you get moving again. For such an extreme outdoor temperature I am not concerned about the slightly elevated engine temperature while idling. All of these OEM temperature gauges read a bit different, but on this one the needle usually sits two needles worth below the middle. I am running a 195 t--stat per the Mopar MPI instructions. With the OBD1 scan tool plugged in the engine normally runs close to 200. So, even with the AC on and the outside temperature over 100 I am not getting much hotter than 210, which is what TJ's/LJ's run at. If I was concerned I could always pop in a lower thermostat.

 

[spankrjs]

The air conditioning compresor belt started squeaking upon initially turning the AC on a few weeks ago. The squeak gradually became a squeal so time to investigate.



All the pulleys are fine, no gouges or rough spots, all bearings spin free. I purchased this belt only two years ago, maybe it was on the shelf for a long time? Seems odd for a two year old belt to go bad? I changed the V-belts on my red Scrambler after 10 years of use and they looked way better then the above pictured belt.

Will keep an eye on it, for now an easy fix.