- City
- Ducor
- State
- Ca
Must be something in the air. I changed this one today. It was almost 2 years old. It was on my 82 scrambler. It has the California serpentine set up. Wish it was a V belt. I hate the serpentine tension options. PITA!
spankrjs's Biloxi, MS '83 Scrambler
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Had the same thing happen on my CA 1985 Spring Special CJ7 awhile back, belt was maybe 1.5 years old!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Didn't think to look
- City
- Ducor
- State
- Ca
It is stamped made in Spain.
- City
- Dillsboro
- State
- IN
The belt we put on Ref had to be replaced again last week. They don’t make them like they used to.
- City
- Richmond
- State
- TX
Raymond, you have a picture of the v-belt setup? I have a set of pulleys and an a/c compressor I plan to put on the Overlander. I have been putting it off due to the work in figuring out how it goes together. This is not a York compressor setup, but I think one from a 4.2 YJ.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I'll post one up in a day or two. The setup I have is closer to the "dealer add on AC" versus the "from the factory AC" set up.
PS pump on driver side like normal. AC compressor (Sanden style) mounted low on passenger side. Alternator mounted above AC compressor with a short belt from compressor to spin alternator. Water pump and crank center of engine like normal.
IIRC the YJ 4.2 set up might be superior IF it comes with a belt tensioner for the compressor belt. That has been my biggest issue - the increased load when the compressor clutch is initially engaged will cause this belt to squeal unless the tension is perfect. A tensioner, like all modern serpentine belt set ups have, would prevent this. On my setup, the JeepAir kit, no where to really mount a tensioner. I added an idler pulley to the face of the timing chain cover between the crank and compressor pulleys, this was the longest length of unsupported belt. Seems to help, but belt tension has to be perfect.
I might be too picky, having been spoiled by modern AC equipped vehicles with serpentine belts with self tensioners. Never had an issue with my TJ or LJ. I seem to remember my mom's '78 Z28 and my dad's '83 Chevy pickup having squealing AC v-belt issues back in the day sometimes. Could be wrong, that was a long time ago!!! Neither of my '78 CJ-7's had this issue, but they didn't have AC LOL!!
IIRC the "factory air" equipped CJ's do not have a self tensioner, either. Maybe the clutch on the York style compressor engages easier/softer, not sure??
My set up will only squeal for a few seconds upon initial clutch lockup, only the first time. When the compressor cycles on and off, no issues. If belt tension is right, no squeal.
So far, with the new belt, no problems.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Page 17 my initial AC install, lot's of pictures.
Page 23-25 is where I added an idler pulley.
Take a look at those and let me know what else you need.
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- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
The steering box on this Scrambler has been clunking, lateral play in the sector shaft. So, just finished up a steering box swap on my red Scrambler, might as well stay in the groove and fix this one now, too!
On my red Scrambler, with Rubicon Express YJ width BUT CJ length front leaf springs, the shackle hanger was below the steering box bracket. So, you have to drop the suspension to remove the steering box bracket.
On this Scrambler, with BDS YJ conversion kit and YJ width AND length front leaf springs, the steering box mounting bracket mounts below the shackle hanger. So, no need to drop the suspension to remove the steering box.
Instead of fighting with all of this stuff up here, and pulling the radiator out to access the PS box line fittings....
I wanted to see if I could partially lower the steering box to gain access to the lines. I had to get the sway bar out of the way, easy enough:
I loosened the bracket bolts, did not remove them, slid the box/bracket down, and was able to remove the lines:
And the OEM PS box and brackets on the ground.
This may not be the best way to do this IF you are fighting real old or rusty parts. I replaced both PS lines 6 years ago, so was fairly confident they would break loose. They did, but still kind of a PIA. If in doubt, I would pull the radiator out to get at these lines.
While I was at it, even though this Jeep only has 31" tires, decided to install a M.O.R.E. HD box bracket and cross over brace. These "small" tires will cause the bracket/frame to flex/move. Better safe than sorry...
On my red Scrambler, with Rubicon Express YJ width BUT CJ length front leaf springs, the shackle hanger was below the steering box bracket. So, you have to drop the suspension to remove the steering box bracket.
On this Scrambler, with BDS YJ conversion kit and YJ width AND length front leaf springs, the steering box mounting bracket mounts below the shackle hanger. So, no need to drop the suspension to remove the steering box.
Instead of fighting with all of this stuff up here, and pulling the radiator out to access the PS box line fittings....
I wanted to see if I could partially lower the steering box to gain access to the lines. I had to get the sway bar out of the way, easy enough:
I loosened the bracket bolts, did not remove them, slid the box/bracket down, and was able to remove the lines:
And the OEM PS box and brackets on the ground.
This may not be the best way to do this IF you are fighting real old or rusty parts. I replaced both PS lines 6 years ago, so was fairly confident they would break loose. They did, but still kind of a PIA. If in doubt, I would pull the radiator out to get at these lines.
While I was at it, even though this Jeep only has 31" tires, decided to install a M.O.R.E. HD box bracket and cross over brace. These "small" tires will cause the bracket/frame to flex/move. Better safe than sorry...
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- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
The M.O.R.E. stuff is pretty much bolt on. The HD box bracket does require a third hole to be drilled into the front cross member. I put some spacers on the cross member to keep the bracket from rocking on the ridges.
You place the box bracket on top of the cross member, upside down, bolt it into place, then mark where the third hole needs to be drilled.
I temporarily bolted the box bracket into place without the steering box attached, just to make sure all 6 holes line up.
I thought that this was going to be a fast job, but unfortunately, when I was draining the PS box and flushing out the lines, there was a metric shit ton of metal in the fluid. Looks like I'm panning for gold!!
With that much metal present, no way I was going to try to just flush out the power steering pump. I don't think you could get all the metal out, and I would presume the pump is damaged, too. Not worth risking damage to a new steering box IMO.
So, pull the power steering pump off:
Had to drive one town over to the next closest NAPA to pick up a pump, so lost about an hour and a half. The lines are only 6 years old, look fine, so I flushed them out with brake parts cleaner. Some new O-rings on the lines, good as new.
I did swap out pumps, love my pulley puller tool kit, I have used this kit at least 6 times in the last few years, worth its weight in gold!!!
Ready for reassembly, ran out of day light, should be able to get it mostly knocked out tomorrow, that's it for now!!!
You place the box bracket on top of the cross member, upside down, bolt it into place, then mark where the third hole needs to be drilled.
I temporarily bolted the box bracket into place without the steering box attached, just to make sure all 6 holes line up.
I thought that this was going to be a fast job, but unfortunately, when I was draining the PS box and flushing out the lines, there was a metric shit ton of metal in the fluid. Looks like I'm panning for gold!!
With that much metal present, no way I was going to try to just flush out the power steering pump. I don't think you could get all the metal out, and I would presume the pump is damaged, too. Not worth risking damage to a new steering box IMO.
So, pull the power steering pump off:
Had to drive one town over to the next closest NAPA to pick up a pump, so lost about an hour and a half. The lines are only 6 years old, look fine, so I flushed them out with brake parts cleaner. Some new O-rings on the lines, good as new.
I did swap out pumps, love my pulley puller tool kit, I have used this kit at least 6 times in the last few years, worth its weight in gold!!!
Ready for reassembly, ran out of day light, should be able to get it mostly knocked out tomorrow, that's it for now!!!
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- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Goofed off most of the day, so late start. I was able to hook up the PS lines to the box, but it was super aggravating, took forever. I am never doing it like this again, will pull the radiator out like I normally do.
The BDS YJ conversion puts the steering box mount on top of the shackle hanger, so there is a gap between the top of the OEM steering bracket and the bottom of the cross member. The BDS kit came with two spacers to go between the front cross member and factory steering box bracket. I now need three. What I did for now:
I used three 9/16" jam nuts as 1/4" thick spacers for the steering box bracket to cross member fit up. I used the original two silver BDS spacers between the bottom of the frame and the top of the steering box bracket. M.O.R.E. supplied the single gold spacer, which would work with CJ length front springs with the shackle hanger sharing two bolts with the steering box bracket.
The YJ length front springs necessitated moving the shackle hangers forward, but all this stuff still works together. I MIGHT place the steering box bracket straight to the frame, move the shackle hanger underneath the steering box bracket, like OEM/my red Scrambler. I could space down the passenger side 1/4" so it would match side to side. This would slightly lift the front/slightly change the caster, but not enough to worry about. It would make the lower front bumper bolts much more accessible. Moving the axle forward slightly with the YJ length front springs has also caused some slight contact between the drag link and the OEM tie rod mounted steering stabilizer hardware, which I need to address sooner rather then later.
Steering lines, steering box, pittman arm installed and torqued, and sway bar bolted back into place. Still need to install the steering shaft, after dimpling the new steering box shaft.
Power steering pump mostly installed, pressure line installed, need to finish all of this before filling with fluid and bleeding the system.
Not too much left to do, that's it for now!!
The BDS YJ conversion puts the steering box mount on top of the shackle hanger, so there is a gap between the top of the OEM steering bracket and the bottom of the cross member. The BDS kit came with two spacers to go between the front cross member and factory steering box bracket. I now need three. What I did for now:
I used three 9/16" jam nuts as 1/4" thick spacers for the steering box bracket to cross member fit up. I used the original two silver BDS spacers between the bottom of the frame and the top of the steering box bracket. M.O.R.E. supplied the single gold spacer, which would work with CJ length front springs with the shackle hanger sharing two bolts with the steering box bracket.
The YJ length front springs necessitated moving the shackle hangers forward, but all this stuff still works together. I MIGHT place the steering box bracket straight to the frame, move the shackle hanger underneath the steering box bracket, like OEM/my red Scrambler. I could space down the passenger side 1/4" so it would match side to side. This would slightly lift the front/slightly change the caster, but not enough to worry about. It would make the lower front bumper bolts much more accessible. Moving the axle forward slightly with the YJ length front springs has also caused some slight contact between the drag link and the OEM tie rod mounted steering stabilizer hardware, which I need to address sooner rather then later.
Steering lines, steering box, pittman arm installed and torqued, and sway bar bolted back into place. Still need to install the steering shaft, after dimpling the new steering box shaft.
Power steering pump mostly installed, pressure line installed, need to finish all of this before filling with fluid and bleeding the system.
Not too much left to do, that's it for now!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
About knocked it out last night, but of course one step forward two steps back sometimes....
I noticed Sunday night that the power steering pump looked a little 'cocked" in relation to the water pump/crank pullies:
Laying a rusty straight edge from the PS pulley to the back side of the water pump pulley, you can see the gap at the water pump pulley:
Not much, about an 1/8 of an inch, BUT that is a lot in such a short span. It has probably been like this, I just noticed it. It is probably OK, but it bugs me.
The 4.0 intake manifolds that came with the Mopar MPI had whatever threaded bosses on the front removed. I know they would not have lined up, but it would have gave me something to work to/bolt the rear PS pump bracket to:
On the stock 4.2 intake manifold there are two nice threaded holes that secure this portion of the PS pump bracket/puzzle. I am sure if was really talented I could weld a nut to the intake manifold, but that is pretty risky for my skill level.
So, I "RedneckRay'd" it. I removed the two bolts that secure this rear bracket to the block, loosened up all the other PS pump brackets/bolts. I inserted a washer between the block/PS bracket in the forward hole to shim it out/slightly cock this rear bracket:
Tightened everything back up, voila, looks pretty good to me!!!
I went and looked at my red Scrambler with a 4.0, the PS pump pulley is cocked a hair, not as bad as this one, not worth messing with at this time.
Just need to add fluid/bleed the system, install the steering shaft, and install the M.O.R.E. steering box cross over brace, that's it for now
I noticed Sunday night that the power steering pump looked a little 'cocked" in relation to the water pump/crank pullies:
Laying a rusty straight edge from the PS pulley to the back side of the water pump pulley, you can see the gap at the water pump pulley:
Not much, about an 1/8 of an inch, BUT that is a lot in such a short span. It has probably been like this, I just noticed it. It is probably OK, but it bugs me.
The 4.0 intake manifolds that came with the Mopar MPI had whatever threaded bosses on the front removed. I know they would not have lined up, but it would have gave me something to work to/bolt the rear PS pump bracket to:
On the stock 4.2 intake manifold there are two nice threaded holes that secure this portion of the PS pump bracket/puzzle. I am sure if was really talented I could weld a nut to the intake manifold, but that is pretty risky for my skill level.
So, I "RedneckRay'd" it. I removed the two bolts that secure this rear bracket to the block, loosened up all the other PS pump brackets/bolts. I inserted a washer between the block/PS bracket in the forward hole to shim it out/slightly cock this rear bracket:
Tightened everything back up, voila, looks pretty good to me!!!
I went and looked at my red Scrambler with a 4.0, the PS pump pulley is cocked a hair, not as bad as this one, not worth messing with at this time.
Just need to add fluid/bleed the system, install the steering shaft, and install the M.O.R.E. steering box cross over brace, that's it for now
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Well, poo poo 
Went to install the lower steering coupler on to the steering box, would not go. At first I assumed it was jus all the paint/goop these things come coated with blocking up the splines, so I scraped all the crap out between the splines. Well, problem is not goop, problem is damaged/twisted splines. Hard to see in the pictures:
It is a newer Borgeson coupler that installed just fine on the previous box, splines are 100% perfect:
Ideally, you want a tight fit here. I don't mind having to really push/pull the coupler on the first time, even a few light taps with a hammer. BUT you should not have to beat the coupler on. That can't be good for the box or the Borgeson coupler's u-joint bearing caps.
Three hours with micro files, fighting, tapping, this is as far as it will go:
Pretty disgusted right now, so I will probably just pull the Jeep in the garage until next week. I tried to get my core back this morning, to send off to get rebuilt, but too late, its gone.............
Live and learn, will have to have a stricter protocol for inspecting/test fitting new/rebuilt parts BEFORE installing them.
I might take the lower coupler off the steering shaft and try to tap it on harder, but will probably just pull this box off and chunk it in the river!!!!!!!!!
Went to install the lower steering coupler on to the steering box, would not go. At first I assumed it was jus all the paint/goop these things come coated with blocking up the splines, so I scraped all the crap out between the splines. Well, problem is not goop, problem is damaged/twisted splines. Hard to see in the pictures:
It is a newer Borgeson coupler that installed just fine on the previous box, splines are 100% perfect:
Ideally, you want a tight fit here. I don't mind having to really push/pull the coupler on the first time, even a few light taps with a hammer. BUT you should not have to beat the coupler on. That can't be good for the box or the Borgeson coupler's u-joint bearing caps.
Three hours with micro files, fighting, tapping, this is as far as it will go:
Pretty disgusted right now, so I will probably just pull the Jeep in the garage until next week. I tried to get my core back this morning, to send off to get rebuilt, but too late, its gone.............
Live and learn, will have to have a stricter protocol for inspecting/test fitting new/rebuilt parts BEFORE installing them.
I might take the lower coupler off the steering shaft and try to tap it on harder, but will probably just pull this box off and chunk it in the river!!!!!!!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Got off my butt and messed with this one last night.
I removed the steering shaft from the coupler, and I was able to gently tap/drive the coupler over the messed up steering box splines. I would tap it a few times, remove it, clean out any debris/flakes of metal, repeat. The Borgeson coupler straightened the damaged steering box splines.
If it would have taken more then "taps", I would have pulled the steering box. No sense beating on a new steering box, or an expensive Borgeson coupler. Anyway, it worked, so I can hopefully finish this project over the next few days/evenings!!!
I removed the steering shaft from the coupler, and I was able to gently tap/drive the coupler over the messed up steering box splines. I would tap it a few times, remove it, clean out any debris/flakes of metal, repeat. The Borgeson coupler straightened the damaged steering box splines.
If it would have taken more then "taps", I would have pulled the steering box. No sense beating on a new steering box, or an expensive Borgeson coupler. Anyway, it worked, so I can hopefully finish this project over the next few days/evenings!!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Almost finished with all of the steering work, just need to install the M.O.R.E. steering box crossover brace.
Drilled an indentation into the new steering boxes input shaft, where the Borgeson coupler's set screw will go:
When you use YJ front leaf springs on a CJ, they push the axle forward some. The last alignment shop positioned the drag link's adjusting sleeve's bolts facing the tie rod, leading to this interference/damage:
No damage to the actual tie rod, but the OEM stabilizer bracket sleeve has some wear!
Easy enough fix, I loosened one bolt up at a time, turned it, retightened, lot's of room now:
You can move the steering box forward, M.O.R.E. and other companies make mounts for this purpose. This becomes necessary with more lift/larger aftermarket tie rods/drag links. BUT, to slide the steering box forward, you have to cut the front cross member, no way around it:
You can see how close the PS lines are to the front cross member.
With my lift, OEM tie rod/drag link, no reason to move the steering box forward. BUT, something to think about if you switch to YJ length FRONT leaf springs.
Drilled an indentation into the new steering boxes input shaft, where the Borgeson coupler's set screw will go:
When you use YJ front leaf springs on a CJ, they push the axle forward some. The last alignment shop positioned the drag link's adjusting sleeve's bolts facing the tie rod, leading to this interference/damage:
No damage to the actual tie rod, but the OEM stabilizer bracket sleeve has some wear!
Easy enough fix, I loosened one bolt up at a time, turned it, retightened, lot's of room now:
You can move the steering box forward, M.O.R.E. and other companies make mounts for this purpose. This becomes necessary with more lift/larger aftermarket tie rods/drag links. BUT, to slide the steering box forward, you have to cut the front cross member, no way around it:
You can see how close the PS lines are to the front cross member.
With my lift, OEM tie rod/drag link, no reason to move the steering box forward. BUT, something to think about if you switch to YJ length FRONT leaf springs.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Yep, it looks to be a b$%ch!!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Finishing up the steering project.................
Installing the M.O.R.E. crossover steering brace, aftermarket, with the BDS YJ conversion kit, aftermarket, means a bit of modifications.
Bolting the brace to the passenger side frame rail:
And the BDS shackle hanger spacer plate sticks out just enough to barely catch the M.O.R.E bracket. No way to slide this bracket forward, it already just about hits the lower bumper bolt head. You need a spacer here, the M.O.R.E. bracket was designed for it's forward mounting hole to slide on top of the shackle hanger rear hole. Since I moved the shackle hanger forward, trying to mount an offset plate to a level frame. If the shackle hanger spacer was about 1" longer it would have worked, but would have needed a hole drilled through it to access the inner frames welded nut at this location.
Remember the left over spacer from the M.O.R.E. steering box bracket? A little Dremel work...................
Fits like a glove!!!
So, finished with the steering, mostly...............................
I had to order some bolts for the steering box bracket crossmember attaching holes due to some interference with the KimDawson aluminum frame cover, especially the newly added third hole.
Good news, steering is working perfectly, with lot's of power assist
Bad news, the two week old PS pump on the red Scrambler is squealing like a stuck pig
That's it for now, on this one
Installing the M.O.R.E. crossover steering brace, aftermarket, with the BDS YJ conversion kit, aftermarket, means a bit of modifications.
Bolting the brace to the passenger side frame rail:
And the BDS shackle hanger spacer plate sticks out just enough to barely catch the M.O.R.E bracket. No way to slide this bracket forward, it already just about hits the lower bumper bolt head. You need a spacer here, the M.O.R.E. bracket was designed for it's forward mounting hole to slide on top of the shackle hanger rear hole. Since I moved the shackle hanger forward, trying to mount an offset plate to a level frame. If the shackle hanger spacer was about 1" longer it would have worked, but would have needed a hole drilled through it to access the inner frames welded nut at this location.
Remember the left over spacer from the M.O.R.E. steering box bracket? A little Dremel work...................
Fits like a glove!!!
So, finished with the steering, mostly...............................
I had to order some bolts for the steering box bracket crossmember attaching holes due to some interference with the KimDawson aluminum frame cover, especially the newly added third hole.
Good news, steering is working perfectly, with lot's of power assist
Bad news, the two week old PS pump on the red Scrambler is squealing like a stuck pig
That's it for now, on this one