Stouttrout
Registered Jeep Nut
- City
- Sour Lake
- State
- Tx
Looking sweet. Do you know what Power steering pump that is off of?
The latest prodject
- Thread starter crash
- Start date
- City
- Rockville
- State
- VA
It looks kind of like PSC stuff, since it says "PSC" on top of it...Stouttrout said:
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/index.php
Stouttrout
Registered Jeep Nut
- City
- Sour Lake
- State
- Tx
John N said:It looks kind of like PSC stuff, since it says "PSC" on top of it...
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/index.php
I might not be looking in the right spot, or maybe I just Don't See PSC anywhere on the Pump. I do see it on the resevior. Your not mistaken the resevior for the pump, are you John
I have a PSC Resevior and made a mount for an LT1 type pump with a few mods done to it (Basically a PSC just alot cheaper).
- City
- Rockville
- State
- VA
You got me, I was looking at the resevior. I figured that if he had that, he used the PSC pump also........just poking fun at you.Stouttrout said:I might not be looking in the right spot, or maybe I just Don't See PSC anywhere on the Pump. I do see it on the resevior. Your not mistaken the resevior for the pump, are you John
I have a PSC Resevior and made a mount for an LT1 type pump with a few mods done to it (Basically a PSC just alot cheaper).
Stouttrout
Registered Jeep Nut
- City
- Sour Lake
- State
- Tx
I dealt with PSC on two projects and was so dissatisfied with the quality control and customer service that I only order the Reservoir from them. it is a very nice Reservoir.
When I start doing this upgrade on the Unlimiteds Steering I will post a write up on it. We have been using one of these set up for about 2.5 years and it is working great.
When I start doing this upgrade on the Unlimiteds Steering I will post a write up on it. We have been using one of these set up for about 2.5 years and it is working great.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
So--to keep in the mood of doing some of the odds and ends--figured it was time to lay a little pipe (noo- not that pipe,lol)
So I figured it was time to do some brake work so I made a list and jammed down to the parts store to load up on goodies . So the first step was to figure out just where the heck to put the rear perportioning valve. I finally found a nice location behind the brake booster and made a little mount for it. You can't see it but the residual valve is right under the perportioning valve.
And down to the line locks
This is as far as I am taking the brake lines until I get the lines done on the diffs then I will plumb the rest of them.
So I figured it was time to do some brake work so I made a list and jammed down to the parts store to load up on goodies . So the first step was to figure out just where the heck to put the rear perportioning valve. I finally found a nice location behind the brake booster and made a little mount for it. You can't see it but the residual valve is right under the perportioning valve.
And down to the line locks
This is as far as I am taking the brake lines until I get the lines done on the diffs then I will plumb the rest of them.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
So the next thing I decided to do---keeping on the current "theme" lol--time to work on getting motor some fuel(since at this point thats the only thing thats keeping me from trying to start this thing).
So the first thing to figure out was the return line off the fuel rail. The stock one was pretty short and headed straight to where the new power steering reservoir is. The stock fuel line is also made of what looks to be stainless steel and I wasn't even going to try and rebend it into a usable shape--so I picked my target and gave it a good old throw (aimed for the garbage can and almost hit the zook,lol)..
So here is how I decided to do the return line.
As you can see I used the fuel rail mounting bolts to mount the line to which worked out pretty good.
For the rubber portion of the lines I just re-used the stock ones. The only thing was on one end it was the female side of the quick release(which worked out perfect) and the other end had a bunch of goofy bends. So I took each line and just cut them and flared the ends(again stainless and was a pain to flare--hard stuff). So I went down to the frame side and cut the stock lines and again flared those ends--made a couple short pieces and wallla--all done..
So the first thing to figure out was the return line off the fuel rail. The stock one was pretty short and headed straight to where the new power steering reservoir is. The stock fuel line is also made of what looks to be stainless steel and I wasn't even going to try and rebend it into a usable shape--so I picked my target and gave it a good old throw (aimed for the garbage can and almost hit the zook,lol)..
So here is how I decided to do the return line.
As you can see I used the fuel rail mounting bolts to mount the line to which worked out pretty good.
For the rubber portion of the lines I just re-used the stock ones. The only thing was on one end it was the female side of the quick release(which worked out perfect) and the other end had a bunch of goofy bends. So I took each line and just cut them and flared the ends(again stainless and was a pain to flare--hard stuff). So I went down to the frame side and cut the stock lines and again flared those ends--made a couple short pieces and wallla--all done..
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
You're a fabrication god to me, just so you know. 
I love your build threads. I simply, totally, completely love them. Amazing work every time.
You build like I'd build if I had more time (and knew how to weld, and had a plasma, and...)
I love your build threads. I simply, totally, completely love them. Amazing work every time.
You build like I'd build if I had more time (and knew how to weld, and had a plasma, and...)
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
bigwalton said:You're a fabrication god to me, just so you know.
I love your build threads. I simply, totally, completely love them. Amazing work every time.
You build like I'd build if I had more time (and knew how to weld, and had a plasma, and...)
Lol--thanks man. I still really enjoy doing this stuff--its more of a passion than anything..
Its funny I have one guy who really is not a bad fab guy--his work isn't too bad but I have done a few things for him now just for that simple reason--I can do it alot quicker than he could.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
2K1TJ said:Great build , as usual.
Just curious about how much time you have in it so far. I know it'd take me a year or 2, that's if I didn't sleep.
Thanks.
To be honest--I dunno when I started it but I will look at the first pictures and that will give me a good idea of when I did--you got me wondering too,lol. I am into it at the very most maybe 2 months...
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
Ok things have been slow over the last # of days--trying to get the motor out of my father in lws rig so I can put a new one in and some other things. But I have been also trying to poke along on this thing...
So now on the right hand rear of the tub the wiring harness goes down thru the body. Well the previouse owner just cut the harness off when they cut the back of the tub. So my origional plan was to just rewire the back of the rig at the plug. But I got to thinking--why run the harness down an area thats totaly exposed. So I decided to re-route the wiring harness/totaly re-wire it.
So I just made the harness wrap around the back of the tub and down the inside edge and then thru the bottom of the tub.
Plus since the fuel pump and fuel sender were now in different locations it also made perfect sense to re-do all of it..
And here you can see the fuel sender portion of the harness.
I also fully mounted the fuel cell and as you can see I decided to move it to the drivers side to give joe a TAD bit of room for something but it also will protect the wiring/fuel lines since its pretty tight between the fuel cell and the tub on the drivers side.
So now on the right hand rear of the tub the wiring harness goes down thru the body. Well the previouse owner just cut the harness off when they cut the back of the tub. So my origional plan was to just rewire the back of the rig at the plug. But I got to thinking--why run the harness down an area thats totaly exposed. So I decided to re-route the wiring harness/totaly re-wire it.
So I just made the harness wrap around the back of the tub and down the inside edge and then thru the bottom of the tub.
Plus since the fuel pump and fuel sender were now in different locations it also made perfect sense to re-do all of it..
And here you can see the fuel sender portion of the harness.
I also fully mounted the fuel cell and as you can see I decided to move it to the drivers side to give joe a TAD bit of room for something but it also will protect the wiring/fuel lines since its pretty tight between the fuel cell and the tub on the drivers side.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
One thing I could never under stand is why they use AN fittings on fuel cells--I guess so you have to pay as much on fittings as you do the fuel cells. In any case on this particular cell the fittings are -8. Now I don't use An alot so I still kinda stuble thru it but I am getting the basic priciple down. Now from my understanding I was under the assumption -8 was roughly 1/2" (where -6 is 3/8). So I got a couple -8 90 degree fittings and some 1/2 fuel line. Well when I tried to get the 1/2" fuel line into the fitings there was NO WAY that stuff was going to fit. So I grabbed some 3/8 rubber line and with some gentle work I was able to get the stuff to go NICELY into the fitting.
So here are some of those FANCY fittings,lol
So I pondered how I was going to run the fuel line down thru the tub. Well I knew I had to go from the 3/8's hose to the 5/16(stock) hose. So I decided to do something I had tried in the past that worked really good. Basically use brass fittings and have them sandwhich'd to the tub to hold them into place. This let me not only go from 3/8 to 5/16 but it also made a very secure pass thru for the fuel with no worries of rubber hose rubbing against any single edges.
This picture is from the front side of the fuel cell--it was very tight to get any pics of the setup. But I used 1/2" washers to get the right pre-load when the fittings were screwed together.
So here are some of those FANCY fittings,lol
So I pondered how I was going to run the fuel line down thru the tub. Well I knew I had to go from the 3/8's hose to the 5/16(stock) hose. So I decided to do something I had tried in the past that worked really good. Basically use brass fittings and have them sandwhich'd to the tub to hold them into place. This let me not only go from 3/8 to 5/16 but it also made a very secure pass thru for the fuel with no worries of rubber hose rubbing against any single edges.
This picture is from the front side of the fuel cell--it was very tight to get any pics of the setup. But I used 1/2" washers to get the right pre-load when the fittings were screwed together.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
And here you can see why I did the mount like I did. A couple hose clamps and the pump is now locked into place. I did the same on my rig when I re-did the fuel feed portion of the system and have had ZERO problems with it..
And here you can see the rear of the wiring that is all now new stuff.
And the tail lights are pre-wired for what ever lights joe decides to go with.
So I plugged the ecm in and the fuel pump promes with the key turned on which tells me SO far I have done things right,lol. So now its ready to dump some fuel into the cell to check all the fuel lines for any leaks----which also means once I get a new coil wire its ready to try and fire off.
And here you can see the rear of the wiring that is all now new stuff.
And the tail lights are pre-wired for what ever lights joe decides to go with.
So I plugged the ecm in and the fuel pump promes with the key turned on which tells me SO far I have done things right,lol. So now its ready to dump some fuel into the cell to check all the fuel lines for any leaks----which also means once I get a new coil wire its ready to try and fire off.
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
So with keeping on the current "jive" I have just been trying to poke along on the small stuff.
Got the orbital mount and steering shaft made up.
Got the heater hoses done and joe was able to get the nose supports so I got those on(will adjust them once I put the hood back on)
Got the orbital mount and steering shaft made up.
Got the heater hoses done and joe was able to get the nose supports so I got those on(will adjust them once I put the hood back on)
crash
Mad Scientist
- City
- Gold BAr
- State
- WA
So I talked with joe and told him I needed the line from the clutch master to the slave. It appears the one he had origionally gotten was 1/4 hardline style. So he stopped by with a totoaly different clutch master (slave end the line pops into the line coming out of the bell housing and on the master side the line is held in with a roll pin). So I opted to swap out to the other master--which took a little modification to make fit but it turned out perfect. I even bled the system and we now have a working clutch.
