The latest prodject

[bigwalton]

Then next I got the power steering cooler mounted. It was pretty easy once I got the cooling fan removed.

Have you used these through-the-fins holders for coolers before with success? My tranny cooler was on that way when I got the Jeep and people have told me it's a bad way to go as the thrashing (not that I thrash that hard ) can rip the fins.

I thought that sounded a little paranoid and haven't done anything about it yet. Just curious if that's your typical mounting method.

 

[crash]

This is the second one I have done this way--I like to mount them off a bracket but room is pretty limited on this rig. One thing you need to make certain if you do it this way--rubber between the cooler/rad and make sure to secure the hoses the come off the cooler. i think where most peoples problems come from is they don't secure the hoses at all---theweight of the fluid in the hoses causes the cooler to loosen/move around.

 

[Randyzzz]

I would advise against it. The biggest problem I've seen is the spikes going between the tubes eventually settle and ride against the tubes, and vibration and accumulated grit eventually cause the spikes to rub through the tubes, causing a coolant leak. I'd run straps across the grille back and mount the cooler to the straps.

Most aftermarket aluminum radiator companies advice against using the quick-mount spikes.

 

[crash]

I would advise against it. The biggest problem I've seen is the spikes going between the tubes eventually settle and ride against the tubes, and vibration and accumulated grit eventually cause the spikes to rub through the tubes, causing a coolant leak. I'd run straps across the grille back and mount the cooler to the straps.

Most aftermarket aluminum radiator companies advice against using the quick-mount spikes.

Sure--take the steam outa my sails--you big meany

And I would not advise this on alum. rads--they are a little too soft...

 

[Randyzzz]

I've rubbed through a FSJ radiator with those little plastic spikes... I'll never use them again. And it always happens at the worst times.... I've even seen electric fans mounted using those- Talk about looking for trouble!

Another benefit of using crossbars to mount the cooler is if the radiator does need to be removed, the cooler can stay.

Didn't mean to take the steam out of your sails...wait- that should be wind in your sails- if you've got steam in there you're already overheating!

Just clicked on your web-cam. No wonder you get so much done...I don't see any beer anywhere.

 

[crash]

I've rubbed through a FSJ radiator with those little plastic spikes... I'll never use them again. And it always happens at the worst times.... I've even seen electric fans mounted using those- Talk about looking for trouble!

Another benefit of using crossbars to mount the cooler is if the radiator does need to be removed, the cooler can stay.

Didn't mean to take the steam out of your sails...wait- that should be wind in your sails- if you've got steam in there you're already overheating!

Just clicked on your web-cam. No wonder you get so much done...I don't see any beer anywhere.

lol--nobody can take the wind outa my saild randy,lol.

And beer--drinkin some now

 

[crash]

Finally got a chance to pke at it some more. Got the front brake lines done at the front diff. One thing I have been doing alot lately is a single brake hose from the diff to the frame--been very successfull with it.

\

To support the TEE I just drilled and tapped the housing---the 60's have alot off bossing in the area that I drill so there is no worries of damaging the housing or getting into the inside of the diff.

 

[crash]

So The next thing to do was probably the last big fabbing to do--and that was the track bar. I had gotten material for it when I got the tie rod so that was sitting there. But unfortunately the 7/8 hiems that joe had were not going to work without having the link material machined so I opted for what I have done a # of times now and went with a weld in bung and a 3/4 5/8 hiem

So I sat there trying to figure out how I was going to do it--since the main issue I was having was runing a cross bar to support the shackle was going to be in the way of ever trying to get the t-case out (typical way I have done them in the past) and the other option was to make one mount off one frame rail. Well I have never liked that idea so I went and decided to try something new. And that being making a removeablr cross bar to the t-case could eaily be removed.

So I rolled the bender out and played with a little tube....

And here is how the frame side of the mount turned out...

The frame is also sleeved so the whole mess should hold up fine..

 

[crash]

So I next welded the bung into a piece of material and then started building up the track bar.

All tacked together and time to make some smoke--and if I am lucky some fire fire too,lol..

So once that was welded up--I built the shackle and then ripped the whole works apart/prepped and threw a little paint on everything....

 

[crash]

So since that was done--heck why not do the rear brake lines,lol...

So at that point I went and bled the brakes and was able to get most the air out--the brake pedal has a good feel without it running but I am sure we will need to bleed them again.

 

[bigjeepnfool]

THanks for taking the time to write this up! You do top notch work.....and the best mig welds I have ever seen! A really good write up with alot of useful information, I appreciate you taking the time to share it!!!!
-Will

 

[crash]

THanks for taking the time to write this up! You do top notch work.....and the best mig welds I have ever seen! A really good write up with alot of useful information, I appreciate you taking the time to share it!!!!
-Will

Thanks will--hope you are able to use some of the ideas

 

[crash]

Well--I had to do it--yes that is right--I had to BOOOTY FAB something. I absolutly HATE to do exhaust work--I don't have the right tools to do it right so I prefer NOT TO,lol.. But I went and thru the header pipe on the rig and it dumped the exhaust right at the t-case cross member. Well I could not have that. So I went ahead and cut up the exhaust and thru something together so it won't burn anything. It does sound MUCH better now,lol. But the system will have to be re-done because it looks like the front driveshaft might end up hitting the exhaust where it comes down off the exhaust manifold....

 

[crash]

And I just could resist these pics. I had a flood lamp explode and throw glass all over the place so I went and pulled the rig out...

 

[crash]

And I also got the shifters done up. Now granted they are pretty close--only time will tell if they are perfect for joe so he may end up needing to tweek them a bit more after he gets used to the rig...

 

[crash]

Well I got the front bump stops done. I was going to do an aftermarket style but after looking at the stockers that I pulled off--I found they would actually be perfect.

So here is how the fronts worked out..

 

[crash]

So now that I had my measurements for the front shocks--I figured it was time to do the front shocks. I decided to go with a hoop style. So I plated the frame right off the verticles on the bump stops and then bent a lil tube...

And the mount at the axle

so just gotta byult the top tabs...

 

[crash]

So I got everything but the front axle painted--so I threw the front shocks on to double check the setup and also get measurements for the rear bump stops. It pretty much ended up right where I wanted it to--might have to limit it another 1/2"--wasn't anticipating those stock bump stops to actually squish like they did,lol.... But the front won't have any shock problems.

 

[crash]

So now it was time to do the rear bump stops. Like the front the stock bump stops worked out perfectly and I was able to compensate for the squish of the bump stop.. To mount the bump stop I just drilled the frame and tapped it---worked like a champ....

 

[crash]

Ok--so the rear end is now all done except for mounting the new shocks--which joe will be bringing with him on saturday. But I cleaned it up and pained the last of the un-painted areas. I also contiplated how to mount the shocks. After alot of looking/measuring I ended up having to build a new crossbar and mount the shocks at an angle behind the diff. I origionally wanted them in front but there just wasn't enough room to mount them horizontaly and due to the track bar I could not mount them at an angle--so my only option was to do them how I did...