Well finally start building
- Thread starter nib
- Start date
Or a roll of NICOP... but once steel tubing starts rusting, it's done. Especially when it can rust from the inside.
Hey folks
Progress has been slow (jeep and back). But I have been doing what I can. Had purchase SS brake lines from classic tube (nice product) but since I installed rear disk brakes and adjustable proportioning valve stock tubing bends and ends wouldn't work. Purchased nickel copper line and made new lines across rear diff and connections to proportioning valve stuff works nice. Installed fuel tank and plumbing also installed new steering box mount (M.O.R.E.). The wheel adaptors are just to mount a set of Tacoma wheels and tires I had so I can roll frame around.
Have to bring Dana 300 and T 176 out of storage for rebuild (kits purchased for Novak) and paint then mount in frame. The 4.2 needs a refresh (about 80,000 miles). Going to disassemble and take measurements to see what it really needs (Titan engines is not far away)
Project coming up clean the underside of the body (check for rust)
in prep for Lizard Skin.
Progress has been slow (jeep and back). But I have been doing what I can. Had purchase SS brake lines from classic tube (nice product) but since I installed rear disk brakes and adjustable proportioning valve stock tubing bends and ends wouldn't work. Purchased nickel copper line and made new lines across rear diff and connections to proportioning valve stuff works nice. Installed fuel tank and plumbing also installed new steering box mount (M.O.R.E.). The wheel adaptors are just to mount a set of Tacoma wheels and tires I had so I can roll frame around.
Have to bring Dana 300 and T 176 out of storage for rebuild (kits purchased for Novak) and paint then mount in frame. The 4.2 needs a refresh (about 80,000 miles). Going to disassemble and take measurements to see what it really needs (Titan engines is not far away)
Project coming up clean the underside of the body (check for rust)
in prep for Lizard Skin.
- City
- Cobourg, Ontario, Cana
- State
- da
Looks great!
Might want to check your rear brake calipers, I think they are on the wrong side. Bleeder screw needs to be at the top. You'll have a heck of a time getting them bleed as is.
Might want to check your rear brake calipers, I think they are on the wrong side. Bleeder screw needs to be at the top. You'll have a heck of a time getting them bleed as is.
I agree. But according to installation instructions the emergency brake mechanism goes in the upper position. If I swap them this will place it in the down. I will double check.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
If those are the SSBC rear calipers you have them on correctly. There are two bleeder screw per caliper, you use the upper screw to bleed the brakes.
Those calipers are used on a certain year Ford Mustang (rear), lot's of non-US market Ford sedans. I lost one of the parking brake return springs and found one in a junk yard.
Picture of my red Scrambler rear caliper from SSBC:
Those calipers are used on a certain year Ford Mustang (rear), lot's of non-US market Ford sedans. I lost one of the parking brake return springs and found one in a junk yard.
Picture of my red Scrambler rear caliper from SSBC:
Yes SSBC you are correct.
Well took a needle gun to the under belly to remove any old under coating and such. All went well not much for rust, just the (I guess you would call the usual places) were panels meet (next to the raised jeep stamping). I wasn't going to strip all the old paint (appears 1 original and 1 respray) but as I sanded I found small areas of bondo and had to look further. So on to paint stripping (what a PAIN IN THE ASS) but it does do a nice job.
