• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

What's on your Work Bench?

I'd my T176 and D300 last winter. First timer too for a transmission rebuild. But I rebuilt my NP231 t-case in my YJ, so I didn't think a T176 would be too hard. Used Novak master kits and watched the same guy on YouTube as you did. He does a great with his videos.
X3
 
Got the T177 installed with the new internal hydraulic throwout and twin sticks on the D300 and it didn't blow up instantly when firing it up or driving it around the shop back and forth. I guess we'll know if she'll hold together when I get going down the road. Did have a scary moment when I put the shifter back in and the transmission wouldn't shift at all. Turns out the shift forks were misaligned. A quick google and a screw driver and we were back in business.
 
What did you use? I could not find one to fit my T176.
The RAM Clutches 78142. The collar of the bearing retainer on the T176/177 is 1.435" and this fit perfectly. I paired it up to the Wilwood 260-15098 master cylinder. No modifications needed, just measured and shimmed it like normal. The alignment stud that comes with it is the right pitch/length, as well.

I've got a T177/302 combo but it should work with any engine mated to the T176/T177 as long as you have 1.7" of distance between the bearing retainer face and your clutch fingers.

 
Last edited:
The RAM Clutches 78142. The collar of the bearing retainer on the T176/177 is 1.435" and this fit perfectly. I paired it up to the Wilwood 260-15098 master cylinder. No modifications needed, just measured and shimmed it like normal. The alignment stud that comes with it is the right pitch/length, as well.

I've got a T177/302 combo but it should work with any engine mated to the T176/T177 as long as you have 1.7" of distance between the bearing retainer face and your clutch forks.

Thanks! If you knew the BS I went through trying to get a working clutch in my jeep. I'm running an Advance Adapter 71258 conversion bell housing to an SBC and never could get a working clutch that I was happy with, and Advance Adapter was no help. It's too late to take everything apart at this stage but I have added the info to my Jeep notes. (y)(y)
 
1614793063341.png

Picked up these. Was disappointed they were legit flat and not more of a satin so we'll have to change that.

I currently have Wagon wheels with a set of OEM center caps. Are those easily sold? The wheels are in fine shape (they're painted black, though) but the centercaps could use some love.
 
Thanks! If you knew the BS I went through trying to get a working clutch in my jeep. I'm running an Advance Adapter 71258 conversion bell housing to an SBC and never could get a working clutch that I was happy with, and Advance Adapter was no help. It's too late to take everything apart at this stage but I have added the info to my Jeep notes. (y)(y)

I went this direction because there are so many different SBF bellhousings and clutch setups...this seemed the easiest and since I already had the transmission out for the rebuild it was the time to make it happen. I exchanged several emails with the RAM Clutch support guys. They were always super fast to respond, gave me all of the bore and stroke info for my MC, and helped look at different options. Can't beat that it's made in the USA, too.
 
Finally wrapped up 8274 rebuild #1. Turned out pretty well for a 78 model- just need to wind it up and get it mounted. And a shout out to @Rosco1974 for the decals. They look great!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2888.jpeg
    IMG_2888.jpeg
    255.1 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_2890.jpeg
    IMG_2890.jpeg
    207 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_2891.jpeg
    IMG_2891.jpeg
    281.4 KB · Views: 19
Last edited:
Nice ! Did you figure out the date of age from the serial # ? I still got a waze to go before I toss mine onto the bench.
 
Nice ! Did you figure out the date of age from the serial # ? I still got a waze to go before I toss mine onto the bench.
Thanks, and depending on the age, should have a three letter/digit date stamp that can be decoded. Mine is JG8, which corresponds (as I understand it) to J=month (10th letter, October), G is the working day of that month (not counting weekends - seventh day) and 8 corresponds with the year (78). Might be some confusion between the 70's and 80's on the year, but early models had a 'keyed' pinion gear, while Warn switched over to the splined version in the early 80's. Mine has a keyed pinion, so I'm pretty confident it's a 78 model.

Now, I'm a 8274 noobie, so if I've been misinformed on the above, someone chime in and let me know!
 

Attachments

  • 8274 Date Code.jpg
    8274 Date Code.jpg
    173.8 KB · Views: 5
I used Novak's master kit. Came with Japanese bearings (not Timken) but we'll see how they hold up. A good pair of snap ring pliers and a large bearing splitter is all you really need to do it. Press helps but is not required.

I had to replace the reverse idler gear because it was chewed up. I probably should have replaced the 1/2 Syncro assembly but it was OK enough to throw back in.

I had never rebuilt a transmission before but there is a guy who does a step for step rebuild of the T176 on youtube and it was perfect.

Got my rebuild kit yesterday. Which youtube video did you use?
 
Finally wrapped up 8274 rebuild #1. Turned out pretty well for a 78 model- just need to wind it up and get it mounted. And a shout out to @Rosco1974 for the decals. They look great!
I have a few sets of SE turn signal lights if you or anyone is looking.
 

Attachments

  • 6512.jpg
    6512.jpg
    58.2 KB · Views: 22
Back
Top