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1983 Scrambler "STUMP JUMPER". Frame off, 5.3 Conversion.

Again, the factory tanks have no baffles. Another option is a retrofit kit that Tanks Inc. makes which places the pump in the tank and the pump sits in a cup.

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
mysunnshine said:
http://www.tanksinc.com/cartimages/prd_84.jpg?img_id=201412031413590

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I like the Novak one better simply because it has the sending unit in it. My thinking is the lack of a fuel tray shouldn't be a problem for me. Remember I am building a street queen not a off road, rock crawling machine. As I said in my first post I am more interested in building this Scrambler the best I can that fits my needs than saving a few bucks. Even though I already have the inline fuel management system in my hands if I feel that the in tank system is the better way to go I will do it. Actually the in tank unit would be easier and make a neater set up. Cha-ching
 
A scenario on the street would be having 1/4 to 1/8 full fuel tank and get on a highway on a 270 degree on ramp. All of the fuel is pushed to the outside wall of the fuel tank.

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
I have never trusted a CJ fuel gauge enough to let the tank get below 1/4 of a tank. :)
 
I modified a tank like the one mysunshine linked to take a factory GM pump module. It can be done with a steel factory tank too, just not as easy. The GM module has an integral bucket and I have never had a problem with sucking air.
 
Randyzzz said:
I modified a tank like the one mysunshine linked to take a factory GM pump module. It can be done with a steel factory tank too, just not as easy. The GM module has an integral bucket and I have never had a problem with sucking air.
Click to expand...

I remember watching your tank mod real close.
 
save your money and DON'T buy the Novak one. It's just an aftermarket CJ sending unit with a fuel pump attached to it. Simply get a fuel pump and make your own.
I bought the one from Novak and it was a piece of garbage. Worst possible quality sending unit, and the work that Novak did to it was VERY sub-par. I ended up redoing everything.
 
Bad Karma said:
save your money and DON'T buy the Novak one. It's just an aftermarket CJ sending unit with a fuel pump attached to it. Simply get a fuel pump and make your own.
I bought the one from Novak and it was a piece of garbage. Worst possible quality sending unit, and the work that Novak did to it was VERY sub-par. I ended up redoing everything.
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Thanks, thats what I need to here. BTW who does make the best quality sending unit?
 
My drive shafts came in today from Tom Woods drive shaft. NICE. The fit with the Dana 300 just wasn't going to work for me and I just don't see how anyone gets it to work with the 4L60E transmission. The 241C TC seems to be the way to go to me. I'm not sure what Jeep this belly pan came off of but it does work but I'm going to remove it and custom build a proper cross member. Also thats a CV yoke on the front of the transfer case and I need to change it to a non-CV yoke. cha-ching
 

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Today I ordered the fuel injection in tank fuel pump from Novak. Yes I could have built it myself but I decided to just order it and work on other things. Also all of my Jeep body parts are now at the blaster.
 
zr10054 said:
The fit with the Dana 300 just wasn't going to work for me and I just don't see how anyone gets it to work with the 4L60E transmission. The 241C TC seems to be the way to go to me.
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I am running a 4l60/stock width axles/Dana 300, a stock OD front drive shaft bolted in just fine:thumbsup:

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BUT, I am not sure if my set up will work without a suspension lift:shrug:

Looking good:thumbsup::cheers::wave:
 
Spankrjs..... I was trying mine with no lift, then 3 inch of lift. With more lift it probably would have worked. Well anyway I now have a rebuilt D300 with the complete Advanced Adapters kit for mounting to a 4L60E trans for sale.
Spankrjs we live close enough to meet. I would like that.
Dennis
 
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