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Heading out on a little African Jeep adventure

Internet is so awful that I don't even want to try google to convert. Posting a FB update is a 5 minute wait for the upload if it works at all.

Epic day yesterday through the mountains further into nowhere. People that do live out here are fascinating in so many ways. Simple herders and farmers with no electricity but all have basic cell phones and relatively nice clothes (small solar chargers for phones as best we can tell.) Tiny houses but some amazing stone work and ornate wood doors and cool windows and window bars. Tons of sheep, goats and cows with a few horses. Rock wall pens, if any and they just tend to herds in the massive fields and all over the sides of the mountains. So incredible the distances they walk and roam. They're incredibly friendly and only a few have asked for food or money, mostly giant smiles and waves/thumbs up. So much fun.

We went over an insane 3000m pass yesterday and an older lady was walking down at us as we were going up with a younger woman who had a baby in a cloth sling backpack! Nearest house that they could have come from was another mile at least once down the other side (about the same drop!) and the nearest town is another 8 miles or so and we couldn't even reach that driving in the next three shouts before dusk when we needed to find a campsite and set up.

Not going to try a pic. Hope this works. Check JPFreek on FB for the few I've posted.
 
Another great day, but grey and photos aren't so great. Throwing up some pics while in town briefly for supplies with good internet.
 

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So cool. Much different terrain than I expected.
 
Now out of Lesotho via the Sanni Pass, a famous dirt drive up into the mountains of Lesotho from South Africa on the SE side of the country. We hit the highest elevation that Dan's Jeep will see on his entire circumnavigation of Africa and had sleet as we were trying to get photos. Unfortunately this morning and the last two days have been grey with spots of rain, so photos aren't great and we had about 40' of visibility coming down Sanni Pass. We had lunch and some wicked cheap celebratory drinks at the highest pub in Africa at the top of the Pass waiting to see if the weather might clear, but by late afternoon it didn't and we made the call to drop down into SA anyway. Still neat with the clouds.

We camped at a cool campground in Underberg (likely no more wild camping now in SA due to safety concerns, many people have warned us of that.) I thought we had decent wifi but can't get photo uploads to work dammit.

Heading around Lesotho in SA today for some great hiking and (hopefully) clearer weather.
 
Even with it being a bit grey the photos are beautiful! What an amazing trip!
 
I never made it back to "finish" out this thread, sorry.

It's unfortunate I wasn't able to get much posted here, we "owed" Dometic social media posts across all of our channels and the small amount of time that we had in the mornings/evenings when we had internet and we always prioritized those. Sadly, they ended up having marketing staff changes in the middle of our trip and they did absolutely nothing with any of them. That really pissed Dan and I off, but at least they made the trip possible regardless.

Unfortunately there were a lot of grey days on the back half of the trip, so what would have been insane photos ended up being somewhat blah. Sani Pass in driving rain was the most disappointing as it's one of the best-known scenic areas in South Africa/Lesotho, but trying to wait out the rain at least gave us more time to eat (stewed lamb) and drink (Glenmorangie cheaper than I'll ever find it again, and a couple local beers) at the "highest pub in Africa".

After we left Sani Pass we went to an AMAZING campground/horse camp called Khotso. That was the last place I made a substantial post and mentioned going around Lesotho for hiking. Well, we scrapped that plan when the weather broke at Khotso and we made a snap decision to hike there for a day in the surrounding hills and stay another night. This worked out PERFECTLY as it was finally a beautiful, clear day, we hiked out a couple miles to some amazing views and then went to hit an amazing swimming hole in a nearby creek. We also drove into town to a butcher that we'd seen and bought the most INSANE beef tenderloin I've ever cooked myself for PENNIES on the dollar. We got ten 1"+ thick steaks out of this cut that we cooked over three days (two dinners and one breakfast with eggs) and it was heaven.

Hiking in the hills:
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Swimming hole with an AWESOME cabin that they are working to fix for rental:
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We also picked up a bottle of Jameson's Caskmates finished in stout barrels and polished that off after dinner. While we were drinking by the fire, the owner of Khotso, Steve, who is an avid off-roader and overlander, came over to talk with us about our plans. He told us about a "trail" along the Wild Coast on the southeastern side of SA on the Indian Ocean and we instantly scrapped our previous plans to go do that. Steve promised us great wild camping (even in SA, which worried us) and we could make it work with the timing we had left, barely.

The first of the steak meals, cooked over hardwood coals:
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So we packed up the next morning and drove due south to the coast, which is aptly named as it's mostly forest covered bluffs that fall off right into the Indian Ocean. We meandered along the coast on this "trail" which was a series of dirt roads with a few more interesting spots that were connected by an occasional asphalt road.

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It was 100% on the opposite end of the spectrum from what we'd done in Lesotho, so it really was the perfect way to finish the trip. To top it off, the first night on the coast we found a spot that will forever be in the top few camping locations I'll manage to find. As was typical for us, we didn't use GPS or a map when it came toward the end of the afternoon and we needed to find a wild camp. We took whatever roads "looked good" based on the terrain and surrounding houses/populated areas.

We found an overgrown two track that climbed up from one "settlement" into trees on a ridge and took a chance on it. We ended up finding what looked like two home sites overlooking the ocean high on the ridge that were cleared years ago, but never used. There were very overgrown "driveways" that clearly had no vehicular traffic for a long time. We walked them and chose the best of the two, completely out of sight of anyone and we traded a pretty stiff wind (which ended up dying later that night) for the sound of the ocean crashing below.

We even felt good enough to have a fire (not typical when wild camping if there's any fear of people noticing) so it was truly an epic night.

Had to get the campsite in a panorama, no other way to show the Jeep and the view.
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Morning view from the ridge camp:
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The rest of the time on the coast was spent driving to inlets on the ocean and we even came on one of the millions of overloaded old Toyota pickups with a broken rear axle yoke. The locals use these to get around and to haul WAY too much stuff on the crap dirt roads and then people pile on top of the stuff in the bed, as clearly had happened to this one. There were a dozen or more people stuck with the truck, trying to keep it from rolling down the fairly steep hill where it had died.

I have a few hundred photos from the day we spent between the ridge camp and our next camp on the Mdumbi river. Inlets between the cliffs and a lot of hiking. Amazingly, no one really had houses out overlooking the ocean. All the settlement stopped further inland. So the name "wild coast" is truly fitting.
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Toyota towing.
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We strapped it to the Jeep and towed it up to a flat area at the top of the hill, instantly becoming heroes to the folks watching. One guy was clearly drunk as hell and was particularly entertaining.
 

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:angry::banghead: I am SO effing sick of the photo rotation bug in vBulletin...
 
Great pics.
I'm sure they don't do the experience justice.

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:thumbsup:
 
Had to add one more coast shot of the Jeep. This was the coast just off a road through what appeared to be a grassy pasture for local cattle. It's got to be one of the coolest places I've ever seen where you were able to drive right out to it.

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One more from a different inlet where we stopped for lunch. Wild coast indeed. this was just behind a hill from the rocky beach, we were trying to get out of the wind to make lunch.
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An example of the "Trail" this was almost as bad as it got, just a washed out bridge that's now a straight river crossing. If the water had been higher, it could have been more interesting.
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This was our final "wild" camp next to the Mdumbi river. We're actually next to a facility that does shellfish research and a kayak rental hut that was closed. We asked permission from the caretaker at the research facility and he was fine with it, so while it wasn't truly a wild camp (Dan always does ask permission when camping near anything that's "settled", though he tries to avoid that scenario whenever possible).

However, it was a spectacular place, even though it was overcast. The tide made a HUGE difference in the river and I actually woke up this morning before sunrise and took a walk to let Dan sleep in more. I was rewarded with one of the most amazing photography outings of my life and got my favorite non-Jeep photo of the trip. Unfortunately, I only had my phone because my good camera was locked up in the Jeep and I would have made significant noise to dig it out.
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And one of those photos where you're in the perfect place at the perfect time, when the sun broke through an opening in the clouds as I was walking toward this point into the ocean.
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From the river camp, we headed straight back toward a campground most of the way to Johannesburg because my flight out was the next night. Our tradeoff for taking the time to do the coastal trail was that we were going to have a long road day back to the campground Dan wanted to make. Dan never likes to force himself into long road days and we proved why, unfortunately. We had a lot of dirt/gravel/generally bad road to get through before we got to high-speed asphalt and then we hit separate instances of construction and a traffic accident where a tractor trailer had gone through a guardrail and off a cliff. Our planned 10-11 hour day stretched out to almost 14 and we hit a lot of rain in the second half. We finished well after dark, which sucked for setting up the tent, even though we did it between rain squalls. The bar at the campground had a number of folks still up in it though, so we made some new friends while drinking our road woes away.

Coming up on the tractor trailer accident where we would spend entirely too much time.
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The next morning started an insane series of awful days trying to get home. As I said, my flight back was the next night and we just had to drive about 4 hours to get to the city where I had made dinner reservations to take Dan to a really nice restaurant that my brother recommended so that I could thank Dan for the whole visit. Easy, right? Just get up and take our time to get a couple hundred miles before dinner and then go catch my flight...

We hit some of the worst storms I've ever seen with monster hail and Dan was (rightfully) worried enough about his solar panels that we drove off the highway and hid the Jeep in trees TWICE.
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I risked getting knocked unconscious to get these pieces of hail to show how incredible this whole thing was. Multiple times we thought the windshield had shattered from the sound of it being crushed by waves of these. Largest hail I've ever seen or want to see again.
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So we did manage to get to Johannesburg in time for dinner, which was excellent, and I made it to the airport in plenty of time for my overnight flight to Amsterdam where I'd connect to Detroit the next morning. While waiting at the gate, KLM staff came and cleared out the waiting area, making us line up to get back in. Turned out that they were taking anyone with a connecting flight out of Amsterdam off the plane because weather had caused them to close the airport to outbound flights the next day. They wanted to rebook us from Joburg the next day rather than making us sit in Amsterdam for a whole day.

The most unorganized MESS ensued, trying to get us back through immigration (we'd already "left" South Africa through customs), get our bags and then take us to hotels for the night. No one told us how we were supposed to get our new flight information, when we were supposed to be where, what airline we'd be on, NOTHING. I ended up using Twitter messaging, of all things (no cell phone and only local calls on the hotel phone) to rebook myself through Delta's twitter account. It took HOURS to do but I wasn't going to rely on KLM after the disaster that night.

While I was working on the rebooking and getting ready to shower, I found a tick embedded in my thigh. The little bastard was in my leg GOOD and not wanting to crush it (never good), I realized my only option with what I had with me was to cut around it with my sharp beard scissors. So I washed them as best I could (it was 1:30AM at this point) and proceeded to cut a hole in my leg. I did manage to get him out intact and alive, but that's not something I'll be looking to repeat.

Still attached to the hunk of my leg...
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The rest of the return trip story is too long to go into detail, here's the short version:

I got on board the rescheduled flight the following night and it took off on time. We never left Joburg airspace though because one of the landing gear wouldn't retract fully. We dumped fuel in the air and made an emergency landing back at the airport without issue and they put us back into a hotel after going back "into" SA.

The next night the flight left and we made it to Paris, where my flight to Detroit was delayed twice, but finally got me home.

The problem is that all flights from SA headed into Europe leave in the late evening/night, so if you miss it for any reason, you're stuck for another 24 hours.

I was exceedingly glad to be home and was messed up with jet lag for a couple days. I also ended up having to go to the doctor for antibiotics after having a couple swollen lymph nodes from the tick bite/excision. Telling your local doc that you need an appointment from a South African tick bite that you cut out of your leg yourself with scissors is a great way to see people freak out.

All in all, it was the once-in-a-lifetime trip I had hoped for and I developed even more hatred for airlines and long flights.
 

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BW, thanks for the update; had not seen a follow up, but glad you are home safely. Looks like an epic trip at all levels. Looks like the knife worked well too; assume it got home with you. Fantastic pics. Love the pic of the cabin on the swimming hole with the waterfall, and the open ocean pics. Nice job. Will watch for a writeup in JeepFreek...
 
It was awesome and the knife worked out perfectly. I randomly pick it up and goof with it at my desk during the day and it completely reminds me of the trip.

BTW, it’s JPFreek, “Jay Pee Freek” the other thing is an entirely different entity, so I always have to correct it when sompeople don’t confuse them.
 
Next time you'll just have to drive the postal. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the update.
 
BW...Develop any super powers from that South African tick bite? That freak me the hell out that I get some strange disease.
 
BW...Develop any super powers from that South African tick bite?

:rotfl: Not that I'm aware of yet. I did get the swollen lymph nodes that made me go to the doctor

I absolutely despise ticks and just try not to think about it. What really gets me is that I have no clue how long it had been buried in my leg. I only took two full-on showers during the time that we were driving around before that night and the last one (the day prior at the last campground) was in a tiny shower room that only had natural light through a skylight, and it was cloudy. The other was using the shower bag hanging off the side of the Jeep in one of the wild camp spots, and I hurried through it to save water and time since the sun was going down and we still had to gather wood for a cooking fire. Realistically, it could have gotten there the second day I arrived in South Africa, for all I know. :huh:

The only thing that somewhat helped me feel better was that it wasn't crazy huge with blood or anything. I took a video and photos of it to bring home -- since I didn't figure a tick (alive or dead) was a good idea to bring across oceans -- and then I truly enjoyed cutting the little $&%#*$ in half. It didn't spew blood or anything.

When my lymph nodes swelled up a little, I called my doctor to explain why I needed an appointment and the nurse very clearly freaked out a little bit. She told me she'd have to look into protocols and call me back because this was something she'd never had to deal with in her career :rotfl:

They made me stand out in the entryway between the two sets of doors, put on a mask and wave at the front desk lady so someone could take me right to a room without stopping in the waiting area. When I got there and waved, 6 or so nurses/receptionists all poked their heads into the reception window to see the guy with the African tick bite... they looked like prairie dogs or something.

Me all masked up...
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In the end, they didn't even bother trying to figure out what was actually causing the swollen lymph nodes because all of the treatments were the same. Any tick-borne disease that caused that reaction just got a 7-day course of good antibiotics. So I took those and nothing more happened.

In the end, the worst of it all was cutting the bastard out of my leg with scissors. That took some time and made quite the mess. I wish I had some brown liquor to take the edge off and could have used it to help sterilize the scissors better than hotel soap and water.
 
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