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walkerhoundvm's rebuild thread

walkerhoundvm said:
Good question. The check valves are built in to the 20g tank, so they're still there. In the OEM CJ setup, the canister is purged to the carb by a signal provided by a mix of temperature change (through the CTO valve) and manifold pressure which opens a simple valve in the canister. The default state of the canister is closed, and scavenging only happens with the vacuum signal.

With the LS, it's a signal from the computer to a solenoid valve at the front of the engine. There's a canister, but it's a simple flow-through canister and scavenging happens with the PCM signal to the external solenoid valve.

When I was redoing the LS harness, I was following a guide without thinking for myself. The guide essentially deleted everything outside of what it takes to turn on, off, and a few essential sensors. The canister purge valve was deleted. I figured this out too late, it was going to be a major undertaking to add a single wire back to the harness for that valve. On top of that, I'd have to find some place to put the Chevy canister, which is roughly the size and shape of half a cinder block.

Decided to deal with it "in the future." For now it vents to the CJ OEM canister without being purged. So far, no gas smell accumulating in the garage, but I'm sure it's probably costing me 0.1mpg ;)
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Thank you for the education on this, especially with the LS swap. Trying to stuff something modern in something 40 years old looks like it has some real complicated challenges. It's like adding gremlins on top of the gremlins that these Jeeps already had leaving the factory. Also I had no clue the Chevy evap canister was so large. I have no idea where you could bolt that up something that big in an already crowded engine bay, maybe where the factory tire jack was mounted on the passengers side fender? Awesome and educational build nonetheless. Did I mention I am totally jealous of your Jeep? It must be the copper brown paint, I seem to have a thing for that color.
 
AJ2393 said:
I have no idea where you could bolt that up something that big in an already crowded engine bay, maybe where the factory tire jack was mounted on the passengers side fender?
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I think there'd be a good spot back under the bed somewhere, just have a long line back up to the engine.

Did I mention I am totally jealous of your Jeep?
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As I was of yours way back when :) After seeing yours, I was more than happy to find my OEM color was CBM and waited a long time to get it back to that color.
 
Your Jeeps come a long long long way. Based on this thread it been at least 10 years, and if my math is correct you lived in three different states during that time. That means you've shipped it at least twice, when it was just a collection of parts and a dream. I salute your perseverance, and so happy for you that it turned out so nice. Maybe someday I will get back in the saddle and find my "next" one, but nothing will be as nice as the CBM one. I messed up big time selling it. Something I will regret for some time.
 
A couple of weeks ago, my fuel gauge pinned and started smoking, so I did what any reasonable Jeeper would do and decided to swap out my valve covers and replace my brake system :crazy: My proportioning valve had a leak from the rear and I still hadn't narrowed down my check engine light despite a lot of help from @Randyzzz on the matter. I thought there might be a chance I had a valve cover leak since a smokedown found some smoke pouring from the oil fill tube, but that was it.

Based on some positive feedback from @Dave The Sparky on the Wilwood proportioning valve, I picked one up from Amazon, and about 30' of PTFE and fittings from pegasusautoracing.com. Very rewarding, but this process probably goes a lot easier for someone who does this more than once every decade or so. I had quite a few fittings with leaks I had to redo, but the braking system is operational again and no more leaks. As mentioned in one of @Dave The Sparky 's posts, the prop valve mounts right up but the fitting locations are different than the OEM.

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The valve covers were just as rewarding. I'm happy with the cleaner look, but it's only cosmetic of course.

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The check engine light I think I've traced to a real touchy MAF - anything that comes in contact with it throws the readings off. My finger, the filter, anything. After replacing the new/refurbished one I had in there with another new/refurbished one from the parts store, it's a little less touchy and my fuel trim readings are at least stable and not skyrocketing.

I took my fuel gauge to Dick's Speedo and Tach in Phoenix, and am still waiting on it to be repaired. Whole lotta work and still waiting on what started it all to be fixed!
 
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Maybe try a Delco MAF? I’ve had good luck with them.

Please let us know how the Wilwood valve works out!
 
You can not run that O2 sensor between two exhaust ports in that manifold. The exhaust gas reversion is going to really screw with it-
 
Randyzzz said:
Maybe try a Delco MAF? I’ve had good luck with them.

Please let us know how the Wilwood valve works out!
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If I see the CEL again I just might. The ones I've been using are the duralast/delphi refurbs. The sensitive part is the metal ring on the filter-facing side, which I think is getting the air temp.

The Wilwood is really nice. I like being able to dial in the rear brakes to get the feel right. I have zero complaints with it, it's made well, fits well, and I feel like it's better overall than OEM.
 
I installed the Wilwood one on my blue Scrambler reason being it has a NT Dana44 with the 11" drum brakes in the rear and it works a treat.
This is why i bought another for the current project, just be warned as @walkerhoundvm says for anyone thinking of installing one that the OEM pipes will need modifying, not a problem to me as i am starting from scratch.
Did you space it out a little? i stuck some spacers behind mine to make it easier to adjust thats all.
 
Dave The Sparky said:
I installed the Wilwood one on my blue Scrambler reason being it has a NT Dana44 with the 11" drum brakes in the rear and it works a treat.
This is why i bought another for the current project, just be warned as @walkerhoundvm says for anyone thinking of installing one that the OEM pipes will need modifying, not a problem to me as i am starting from scratch.
Did you space it out a little? i stuck some spacers behind mine to make it easier to adjust thats all.
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I saw that there is an option to get a mount and tubes to place the unit up top next to the master. That’s my plan because the exhaust is just too close to the stock location. Plus it will be easy to adjust there.
 
Randyzzz said:
That’s my plan because the exhaust is just too close to the stock location. Plus it will be easy to adjust there.
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I wrapped my pipes, and the lines near them. I've been checking and temps are doing pretty well luckily. It is a little hard to reach over the pipes to adjust, but I figure I only have to dial it in once.

mysunnshine said:
You can not run that O2 sensor between two exhaust ports in that manifold. The exhaust gas reversion is going to really screw with it-
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Not sure I follow. It's a C6 manifold with the O2 sensor in its factory location. What should be done differently?

Dave The Sparky said:
I installed the Wilwood one on my blue Scrambler reason being it has a NT Dana44 with the 11" drum brakes in the rear and it works a treat.
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I'm working with the same setup, and after adjusting, the rear brakes are behaving a little more like I was expecting.
 
spankrjs said:
Please let me know if your shop is able to repair your fuel gauge. I have a Mopar replacement fuel gauge that needs some work :fingerscrossed: :thumbsup:
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I know they can, because the builder would routinely send all of his gauges there. The question is whether they can do it in a reasonable time frame. Going on about 10 days now, and when I called I got the "it's on his desk now" line. Hopefully sometime this week.

I think these things are their bread and butter - they're basically resistance wire wrapped around a pivoting rod no matter who made them. I also think they take mail-ins, but give them a call.
 
Been a while since any updates. How's the jeep running? Are you finally getting to drive the heck out a jeep you have moved around the country with you so many countless times when it was just a project?
 
Hopefully we've reached the end of this particular chapter in the rebuild. After an exhaustive search for issues triggering several check engine codes, ultimately ending with a rebuilt engine in March after I found the heads full of coolant, I hope I can finally put this to rest.

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Drove her downtown to throw her on a dyno and get everything sorted out. This guy came with a great reputation in all of the hotrod and tuning groups, and he worked me in this afternoon. A few laps around the block, half an hour on the dyno, a blown fan relay later and I was back on the road.

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Really impressed - the trims stayed balanced, she had plenty of power, now we just have to see if there'll be any mpg benefits.

So we've finally got a well-running 5.3LS, and I can finally rest easy and focus on other ways to blow my paycheck. Like sorting out why the fan relay had a meltdown 🤪

@AJ2393, sorry I missed your post, I've been on the sidelines dealing with this particular problem!
 
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