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Meet Red, my 81 Restomod Build

93_Fummins said:
I thought on the Lokar you could shift 1st to 2nd to 1st without detents, then it step-detented in D, and could shift D to OD to D witnout detents, all while only hard detenting in P and N? Basically the same as most stock console shifters. If nothing else, it looks like the detent plate on the Lokar is pretty simple and could be manipulated with a ramp profile between 2nd and D to allow full gear range while just offering slight resistance on the ramp between 2nd and D so you at least had reference when pulling from P. Just a thought... I like the looks of the Lokar best, and the option of hard mounting and mechanically linking to the trans is nice.

The Kilduff shifter looks like a modified "his-hers" shifter from a Pontiac. Could be fun, but that's pretty steep, and I feel it would look silly anywhere but a full fabbed console.
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I’ll agree the hard mounted shifter to trans is a great feature. But the Lokar is definitely not designed for “slamming gears”. IIRC the step detent for neutral was only out of N, and just a spring detent from D to N. I was using a stock Ford console shifter on Copper and finessing the upshift under full throttle was not fun. Not sure I want to lay out the bucks for the Kilduff, however I am building a custom console with park brake lever and 4x shifter on either side of the trans shifter. The Winters would be a no-brainer, I just have to figure out how to tell what gear I’m in at night.

I had seriously considered a column shifter but decided against it for the lack of performance detent.
 
Hmm... Looks like I was wrong. Park is hard lock, Neutral is hard lock. Bottom detent to OD, flat from OD to D, then forward notched from 1 to 2 to D. You could definitely smooth the ramps between 1, 2 and D so they simply "clicked" as you went back and forth without having to depress the button, but may be more trouble than it's worth.

lok-s-6946_xl.jpg
 
93_Fummins said:
Hmm... Looks like I was wrong. Park is hard lock, Neutral is hard lock. Bottom detent to OD, flat from OD to D, then forward notched from 1 to 2 to D. You could definitely smooth the ramps between 1, 2 and D so they simply "clicked" as you went back and forth without having to depress the button, but may be more trouble than it's worth.

lok-s-6946_xl.jpg
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That’s what I remembered. You have to be really careful when manually up shifting to not hit “N”. I suppose a gate could be modified to have a neutral stop.

I just spoke with Winters (Maverick). Their tech department states the shift lever is 2 3/8” long, my failed mockup was 1 5/8”. The extra distance will help a lot with the heavy P to R detent. Plus the positive stop gate will also be nice. I asked about mounting the lever above the selector shaft, he said the shifter is so universal that anything is possible.

Too bad there’s not a Winters style shifter with a shift rod instead of cable.
 
So... I’m thinking of getting either a Lokar or American Shifter Co. shifter. Figuring out a way to adapt either a thumb button T-handle or a squeeze handle like on modern shifters. Then modify the gate plate to allow for a neutral stop from drive. Lastly figure out a way to make a gear indicator short of ponying up $200 for a Dakota digital. I like the idea of a solid linkage on a trans mounted shifter so much that it hopefully makes all the work worthwhile.
 
Lokar makes the "standard knob adapter" and "Muscle Car T-handle" for their shifters, which either require pushing down on the whole knob rather than a button. You might be able to adapt that into a squeeze handle type option. The t-handle thumb button might be a little more tricky depending on what handle you settle on, because the push pull cable for the gate latch might not want to bend that hard to go to a side button. Gate modification should be easy.

Edit: I've also seen where some brave souls tap into the shift solenoid harness and decode the solenoid activation sequence to populate gear position. I'm not keen on splicing into sensitive areas like that personally, but it would be a cheap parts list to do so if one were so inclined.
 
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My Lokar is a trans mounted rod linkage 16" model. Park is a hard lock. You need to depress the button to go into reverse. From reverse you can simply push forward to shift back into park (no detent) or press the button to go into neutral. From neutral you need to press the button to go into OD or back to reverse. OD to D has no detent, going into neutral from OD also has no detent. You need to press the button to go from D to 2, then 2 to 1. Then to upshift, there are no detents shifting 1-2-3-4 until neutral when you need to press the button again to go to reverse or park.
 
Well, I came across a deal on an American Shifter Co unit. Half the price of a Lokar. I did my research- they are overseas and depending on the reviewer they are either crap or better than Lokar. Headquartered in beautiful Portland, OR. ? Most of the people who say they’re crap didn’t like the idea of online instructions. I couldn’t care less. Since I’m going to be modding it, I feel a lot better doing my test run on a cheapie. If I like the mods but the shifter is crap, I’ll upgrade to a Lokar.

It’s a 12” bent stick, all black.
https://www.americanshifter.com/cat...hifter-kit-12-black-arm-w-bend-and-black-knob

1AE845E9-3CD5-4749-B76A-D1869F51B219.png

Got it delivered for $160
 
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Thinking about the shift plate. Maybe a notch where the red is would keep me out of Neutral unless I really wanted to be there. The plates are $15, I'll have to see if they fit my shifter. I also think I figured out a gear position indicator repurposing my Ford shifter, and also how to get a squeeze knob to work! Stay tuned!

Mod shift plate.jpg
 
Belizeit said:
Or just get that first scratch over with, then you are good. :evil: Took me about 2 years at a new job 2nd day. Looked like it was intentional and in an odd place to even happen at :shrug: Anyway that paint looks beautiful !
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If I ever get called back to my old job- I have a pretty protected spot. I’m more worried about reassembly!
 
Randyzzz said:
If I ever get called back to my old job- I have a pretty protected spot. I’m more worried about reassembly!
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Same worry I have...had the benefit of a 2 post lift when the tub went back on at my buddy's shop. I'm going to have to rig up something with my front end loader, say a prayer, light some sage, throw some salt over my shoulder, etc, etc, etc...
 
Jeepskate said:
Same worry I have...had the benefit of a 2 post lift when the tub went back on at my buddy's shop. I'm going to have to rig up something with my front end loader, say a prayer, light some sage, throw some salt over my shoulder, etc, etc, etc...
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I got it off with an engine hoist...wasn’t concerned then. But going back on- I don’t know. Plus I lifted it from the roll bar. It won’t be in when the tub goes back on...might be time for a Harbor Freight gantry crane.
 
Randyzzz said:
I got it off with an engine hoist...wasn’t concerned then. But going back on- I don’t know. Plus I lifted it from the roll bar. It won’t be in when the tub goes back on...might be time for a Harbor Freight gantry crane.
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Same thing I did. I almost bought a gantry before we moved. Realizing that this is the first frame-off that made it to paint...uncharted territory.
 
Jeepskate said:
Same thing I did. I almost bought a gantry before we moved. Realizing that this is the first frame-off that made it to paint...uncharted territory.
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That’s funny- this is the first time one of my frame-offs has made it to paint.
 
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