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Roll over check valve and liquid check valves

Truck

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
Manassas
State
Va
I can't find an answer to this question. On a 15 gallon tank with the external roll over and liquid check valves. do I really need them? This will be a DD not a wheeling rig. If I don't need them, what do i need to do with the 2 lines coming from the tank to the LCV? Can I just plug them or loop them? Can they be bypassed for the short term? I know about the DeLorean roll over valve replacements but is there a LCV replacement?


Truck
 
Last edited:
You'd be hard pressed to find a replacement for the LCV. You could rebuild it, if it's still mostly intact, like I did. (search the forum, you'll find it in my rebuild thread).

You don't need them, mine were out of commission for who knows how long. Your best bet is to loop the lines and buy a vented gas cap, or drop the 15 and replace it with a 20/21 that has them built in. I'm not sure what the emissions laws are in VA, but most likely the loop will go unnoticed.
-N
 
Off the wall...

So here is an odd question. What if you did the "loop" but added some kind of small, inline breather/vent/check valve type thingy?? It could be routed up somewhere out of the way?? Is this to wierd?
 
Truck,
My suggestion is to run with just the rollover check valve because this is a DD and you won't be getting into circumstances on the road where the LCV would come into play.

I would not loop the line or bypass it because it is designed to be a sealed system to prevent the escape of fuel vapors into the atmosphere, if you do a vented cap or some other rigged solution, it you're likely to be smelling gasoline around the Jeep.

I'd definitely run the rollover check valve, not because it's likely you'll roll over on the street, but because they're really cheap so why not have that insurance. I needed a new rollover check valve some years ago for my Scrambler, and I found a Nissan check valve that worked perfectly, from an early 90's Altima:

valve-1.jpg


The only real difference from the stock rollover valve is the mounting method, so I used a zip-tie:

RolloverValves-1.jpg


If you don't have a functioning LCV, I'd still run the vent lines up to the charcoal canister in the engine compartment, but in place of the LCV I'd make sure the vent lines run up into the rear fender, higher than the tank, so liquid fuel cant travel through the vent lines to the canister. If you run the line as high as you can inside the rear fender, there's no way you'll be at any angle on the road that will ever cause liquid fuel to pass through the vent line, so the LCV wouldn't be necessary.
 
Thanks fellas.

Jeff, any chance you have a part #? I can't seem to find it online.

Truck
 
Thanks fellas.

Jeff, any chance you have a part #? I can't seem to find it online.

Truck

Sorry, I don't, I actually pulled mine off an Altima in the Pick-n-Pull, pretty sure it was an 89 or 90. Probably if you take the photo to the Nissan dealer they'll be able to find the right one.
j
 
Anyone know what the possible ramifications might be if I simply loop or plug the two lines meant for the liquid check valve (LCV) or roll over check valve (ROCV)? I'm using the 15 gallon tank as a temporary solution and do not have the LCV or ROCV. The postal will essentially be driven to a parking garage (12 miles) and left there until I free up garage space at my home. I may periodically need to move it to the other end of the parking structure but that's it. Thanks for your help with this.
 
You will be fine. I had a rig that I wheeled for years that I plugged these lines on.
 
Truck,
My suggestion is to run with just the rollover check valve because this is a DD and you won't be getting into circumstances on the road where the LCV would come into play.

I would not loop the line or bypass it because it is designed to be a sealed system to prevent the escape of fuel vapors into the atmosphere, if you do a vented cap or some other rigged solution, it you're likely to be smelling gasoline around the Jeep.

I'd definitely run the rollover check valve, not because it's likely you'll roll over on the street, but because they're really cheap so why not have that insurance. I needed a new rollover check valve some years ago for my Scrambler, and I found a Nissan check valve that worked perfectly, from an early 90's Altima:

valve-1.jpg


The only real difference from the stock rollover valve is the mounting method, so I used a zip-tie:

RolloverValves-1.jpg


If you don't have a functioning LCV, I'd still run the vent lines up to the charcoal canister in the engine compartment, but in place of the LCV I'd make sure the vent lines run up into the rear fender, higher than the tank, so liquid fuel cant travel through the vent lines to the canister. If you run the line as high as you can inside the rear fender, there's no way you'll be at any angle on the road that will ever cause liquid fuel to pass through the vent line, so the LCV wouldn't be necessary.


My LCV valve has the two lines that come from the tank but the third line just hangs down and isn't attached to anything. The roll over valve I bought only has one position for the line that comes from the characoal canister. Should I get a different roll over valve with two positions?
 
My LCV valve has the two lines that come from the tank but the third line just hangs down and isn't attached to anything. The roll over valve I bought only has one position for the line that comes from the characoal canister. Should I get a different roll over valve with two positions?
You can get one from the DeLorean company, yes that DeLorean. Direct replacement.
 
You can get one from the DeLorean company, yes that DeLorean. Direct replacement.
I see the Delorean one. There are other aluminum one way roll over check valves
You can get one from the DeLorean company, yes that DeLorean. Direct replacement.
I ordered the Delorean check valve from the Delorean Co. It said it was the last one. There are other aluminum made-in-China one way roll over check valves for cheap. Are these suitable for future projects?
 
Although it isn't aluminum and differs somewhat from the stock system, The MTS company is another source for LCV and rollover check valves and other CJ fuel components (fuel filler hoses, gas tanks, etc). I've ordered several items from them, and have been pleased.

Hoov
1599071536855.png
 
Although it isn't aluminum and differs somewhat from the stock system, The MTS company is another source for LCV and rollover check valves and other CJ fuel components (fuel filler hoses, gas tanks, etc). I've ordered several items from them, and have been pleased.

Hoov
View attachment 86711
Just avoid their fuel sending units.... Not that there are any alternatives. They're all Omix junk.

I had my rollover valve in my jeep for about ten years. It held up OK, but there's a thin steel ring on the bottom that had started to corrode. Maybe it's reversible and you can put the metal ring side on the top?

I just tried to checkout on the DeLorean site and it let me get most of the way through with one?
 
Maybe each one is the "last one".
There are certainly a finite number of them. My understanding (based on an episode of Wheeler Dealers and the DeLorean documentary) is that they made a limited number of spare parts back when the DeLorean was being produced, no more were made, and they're all in a warehouse in Texas.

That being said, my guess is that hundreds have been sold to jeep owners in the past decade, so they must have quite a stash.
 
Humble, Texas to be exact. North East of Houston.
 
Got the Delorean check valve today. Put it on. One line to canister and the other tank line to the LCV valve. There is another line coming out the back. Is that just a breather line that doesn't go anywhere?
 
Got the Delorean check valve today. Put it on. One line to canister and the other tank line to the LCV valve. There is another line coming out the back. Is that just a breather line that doesn't go anywhere?
It's a location nub that plugs into the bracket. Don't think it's patent, just a nub so it can't spin.
 
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