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Gr8Dain's 4.0/aw4 swap from a 97 XJ

02tj

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Took a quick break from work to see about attaching the transfer case to the transmission. Something is not letting them mate. The outer diameter of the output shaft is about 2 and 1/8”. The inner diameter of the seal on the transmission is about the same. They should slight right together. I cannot tell if the seal is what is keeping it from going all of the way in or not, but it appears to leave a gap of about 3/8”.

Any ideas?
I think u have the extended input shaft in that 300 it has the 4-1 kit in it right?
 

bigwalton

Alaskan Postal nutjob
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I will just add the O2 bung to the pipe closer to the cat.

This is a better idea anyway :thumbsup: You're considerably more likely to need to replace the exhaust header than the exhaust piping and you want to have a good average of all of the cylinders after the collector.
 

gr8dain

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I think u have the extended input shaft in that 300 it has the 4-1 kit in it right?

Yes Rick. I have now ordered a standard i put shaft and the thin retainer ring to use. It should work with the 3/4” clocking ring now.
 

gr8dain

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Ok. So the replacement retaining ring and stock length input shaft came in last week. So I got a few hours to play with the Jeeps today. So I got the old parts off, and put the new parts on, and looky here. It mates right up to the aw4.
 

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spankrjs

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I'm confused about the different length input shafts with regards to the 4:1 kit installed inside the Dana 300.

I installed JB Conversions 4:1kit in my red Scrambler's Dana 300. It used the stock input shaft and input shaft housing, just a new gear on the OEM input shaft. I used this transfer case behind T5(s), my T176, and finally an AX15 with no problems. On the OEM CJ transmissions the transfer case bolted on like stock. With the AX15 I had to add a clocking ring due to the AX15 output shaft sticking out further then an OEM CJ transmission.

Do different 4:1 kit manufacturers include a new input shaft/housing with their 4:1 kits that sticks out more then OEM? If so, why?
 

gr8dain

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I'm confused about the different length input shafts with regards to the 4:1 kit installed inside the Dana 300.

I installed JB Conversions 4:1kit in my red Scrambler's Dana 300. It used the stock input shaft and input shaft housing, just a new gear on the OEM input shaft. I used this transfer case behind T5(s), my T176, and finally an AX15 with no problems. On the OEM CJ transmissions the transfer case bolted on like stock. With the AX15 I had to add a clocking ring due to the AX15 output shaft sticking out further then an OEM CJ transmission.

Do different 4:1 kit manufacturers include a new input shaft/housing with their 4:1 kits that sticks out more then OEM? If so, why?

Supposedly, it stuck out further to compensate for the 3/4” clocking ring. I had no issues with the t176. I was told by the techs at Advance Adapters that the output shaft of the aw4 transmission is too long and I needed to use the stock length shaft and retainer for the dana 300 even with the clocking ring.

I am not sure if I could have used the stock length parts with the t176.
 

jpnmaine

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This is good to be aware of. Pretty sure I will be using the ax15 with the 300 transfer. Although since following this thread the automatic is starting to gain traction.
 

gr8dain

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This is good to be aware of. Pretty sure I will be using the ax15 with the 300 transfer. Although since following this thread the automatic is starting to gain traction.

I made my choice to go auto and I am sticking to it, but am wondering if I will regret it. Always been a driver of the manuals.
 

gr8dain

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This is where things leave my comfort zone. I just removed the old wiring harness. And there was a wire that was going from the engine side of the firewall back into the cab under the dash. I started to trace it back, then realized that this is a good time to clean up the underdash wiring where some POS (that POS is me) added things and powered them off of other fuses like an idiot.
 

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sdsupilot

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I think you will be happy with your choice for auto. I used to want my tow rig to be a manual, until I bought my duramax/allison. Same for my Jeep, until the 700r4 went in.
where some POS (that POS is me) added things and powered them off of other fuses like an idiot.

haha! I think a majority of us relate to this after years of adding "just one more" accessory.

I don't think you will regret going to an auto. I thought I would miss the compression braking. With my 700r4 locked in 1, there really isn't a big difference from the previous manual.
 

spankrjs

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So, the "extended length output shaft" was an aftermarket part, designed to be used with an extra thick clocking ring, when a standard length output shaft and a thin clocking ring would work fine :shrug:

Just trying to understand this long input shaft thing, not trying to be an a$$, I didn't even know anyone made such a thing :shrug:
 

jpnmaine

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Dont think you will look back unfavorably on your decision. Even though I am far from that point in the build..it is something I am currently thinking about.
 

gr8dain

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So, the "extended length output shaft" was an aftermarket part, designed to be used with an extra thick clocking ring, when a standard length output shaft and a thin clocking ring would work fine :shrug:

Just trying to understand this long input shaft thing, not trying to be an a$$, I didn't even know anyone made such a thing :shrug:

Advance Adapters sells the longer shaft and retainer for the shaft to go along with the 3/4” clocking ring when used with specific transmissions. The t176 was one of those. Due to the length of the output shaft on the aw4, those are not used. The normal input shaft and retainer are used with the clocking ring. It all depends in the transmission being used. Since I was switching from the t176 to the aw4, I had to switch back.

The funny thing was the tech kept telling me to just go grab my stock parts and put then back on. I had a hard time convincing him that I did not have them since I bought it already set up. Then he kept asking why the seller did not give me the stock parts with it. He was trying to save me money.
 
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gr8dain

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Big day today. I got the drivetrain in this afternoon. What a pain to muscle it into place. And I think I screwed up the starter in the process. I thought attaching it to the motor before install was the right thing to do. Nope. It got caught up on the motor mount bracket and wires pulled off. Well, another part to get (again).

Exhaust is removed. Guess it will get trashed since I need a new cat and muffler anyway.

And I put the grill on to make sure there is clearance for thr mechanical fan. There is. But I left it on because I have been looking at the Scrambler without a grill for too long. It will come back off as I continue with the work on the motor.

So much more to do. But so glad the drivetrain is in.
 

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spankrjs

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Advance Adapters sells the longer shaft and retainer for the shaft to go along with the 3/4” clocking ribg when used with specific transmissions. The t176 was one of those. Due to the length of the output shaft on the aw4, those are not used. The normal input shaft and retainer are used with the clocking ring. It all depends in the transmission being used. Since I was switching from the t176 to the aw4, I had to switch back.

The funny thing was the tech kept telling me to just go grab my stock parts and put then back on. I had a hard time convincing him that I did not have them since I bought it already set up. Then he kept asking why the seller did not give me the stock parts with it. He was trying to save me money.

Ok, now it makes sense to me, thanks for the explanation :thumbsup:
 

gr8dain

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Thinned out the wiring under the dash. Radio wiring, 12v and USB, CB, add on tach, oil pressure gauge, and left with one orange wire a PO did something with. It was running through a hole in the firewall to the engine. But I have no clue what it was attached to. Oh well. Maybe I will find out if I need it once the new motor is wired up and running.

I will probably run the CB again, but in a different location and as a back up to the GMRS I plan to get.

And I labeled all of it so it will be easier to reattach it all. But I promise that I will do it the right way and not the quick way.

The good news was that there was only one household wire nut found. All of the rest I had removed. Those were definitely from the PO.
 

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gr8dain

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Is there a crossmember that I can look to purchase for an AW4 on a CJ? Or do I just have to fabricate one or bash this one flat? The front of it sits high and the trans pan rests on the crossmember and the trans mount bolts aren’t even able to get to the crossmember let alone through it. Besides, now that the t-case is clocked, I don’t need the cross member to drop like it does on the pass side.

What did you all do?
 

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gr8dain

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Oh and here is what happened to the starter and oil filter when I jammed the motor into the bay. That passenger side motor mount did a number on them. Oops
 

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