1984 SL Restoration

[spankrjs]

Battery and starter cables installed/routed/secured. I left the positive cable off of the battery for now.



Secured the cables with a big plastic clip on the fender. I put a piece of plastic loom on the cables just for the hell of it, helps to better secure the cables inside the plastic loom clip.



The negative cable connects to the block where my finger is pointing. I routed the ground up above the oil filter to make oil filter access easier.



Put a sleeve over the starter cable to precent it from shorting out by rubbing on the fender. I will add a plastic clip down here to further secure this cable.



Trying to burn through easy to install parts, I changed the oil. It was nasty. I was going to wait until I had the engine running before I changed it for the first time, glad I did not wait, it was nasty.



The engine had a "short" oil filter installed, brand I have never heard of?



Sun was out, no rain, not too cold, so perfect weather for sitting outside and cleaning up some OEM parts before I reinstall them.



EGR valve, three under hood metal fuel lines, a metal vacuum line, and the air cleaner housing valve cover mounted base.

Dremel tool, steel wool, and time. While not "perfect", much better, and will not look out of place with all the new parts/paint.

Left is after, Right is before:



Got most of them cleaned up before the sun set.

 

[spankrjs]

The EGR valve tests fine, so I spent some time cleaning it up. I will reinstall it into the intake manifold, but I might not hook it up.

A few picture of some of the markings that were on it. I will have to run the part number and see if it is even the correct valve. I do know it will plug the hole in the intake just fine LOL.



It was a major PIA scraping what was left of the old gasket off the back of the valve!!!

I plan on working on it again tomorrow, knocking out some more easy tasks.

That's it for now.

 

[Jeep Addict]

Lookin Good Spanky! I better get moving on my end.

 

[spankrjs]

Spent over half the day gathering up odd ball missing supplies at 5 different parts stores, so minor progress today. Taking tomorrow off.

EGR installed, metal fuel return line loosely in place, brake booster vacuum line attached, rusty throttle springs dangling off their bracket:



Installed the metal fuel line that comes up from the fuel pump and over the valve cover, plus the rubber fuel line from the frame rail to the fuel pump. I used high pressure fuel hose and fuel injection clamps, even though it will have a carburetor.



Trying to remember where this bracket goes. I know it came from the driver side, and the rubber fuel return line went through the loop. Somewhere down low, either off the block or ???



Coolant hoses:



Upper and lower radiator hoses:



The hoses I use for the water pump to heater core, heater core to back of intake manifold, and front of intake to thermostat housing:



Started running coolant hoses, ran out of daylight. Break time now. Doesn't take long to fill up the nice clean engine bay:



That's it for now!!

 

[certifiablejeep]

Trying to remember where this bracket goes. I know it came from the driver side, and the rubber fuel return line went through the loop. Somewhere down low, either off the block or ???

View attachment 90516

This looks like passenger side, behind the alternator. attaches to the block and it holds the coolant hose away from the block to go to the thermostat area to hook in.... no?

cb

cb

 

[spankrjs]

This looks like passenger side, behind the alternator. attaches to the block and it holds the coolant hose away from the block to go to the thermostat area to hook in.... no?

cb

cb

No, the metal loop is just big enough for a 1/4" ID fuel line to pass through. IIRC, it came off the driver side and held the rubber portion of the return line off the engine or fender? It held the rubber return fuel line, somewhere between the frame mounted hard return line and the other metal return line that drops down off the fuel filter. Just can't remember/see where it went??

 

[FLCJ8]

No, the metal loop is just big enough for a 1/4" ID fuel line to pass through. IIRC, it came off the driver side and held the rubber portion of the return line off the engine or fender? It held the rubber return fuel line, somewhere between the frame mounted hard return line and the other metal return line that drops down off the fuel filter. Just can't remember/see where it went??

Not going to be much help, but I checked my '83.
Mine has a metal loop on the hard line from the filter to the rubber line that I believe you are talking about. It is bolted by the rearmost bolt for the power steering bracket.
The rubber line between that block mounted hard line and the frame mounted hardline doesn't currently have a strap.
By the length and position of the rubber line it appears it would be secured to the fender (if it was on).

 

[spankrjs]

Not going to be much help, but I checked my '83.
Mine has a metal loop on the hard line from the filter to the rubber line that I believe you are talking about. It is bolted by the rearmost bolt for the power steering bracket.
The rubber line between that block mounted hard line and the frame mounted hardline doesn't currently have a strap.
By the length and position of the rubber line it appears it would be secured to the fender (if it was on).

Yep, I have the little bracket/clip that secures the vertical hard line to the rear most lower power steering pump bracket to block bolt.

I am almost positive the bracket I pictured secured the rubber portion of the return line, maybe to the fender, could be losing my mind??

I'll look back at my Spring Special thread, I might have a picture of it there. I need to hurry up with JeepAddicts red Scrambler so I will have my SS for spring ?

 

[Dave The Sparky]

I assume this is correct from my back catalogue of pics (2012)

 

[FLCJ8]

I assume this is correct from my back catalogue of pics (2012)

View attachment 90521

Mine uses that clamp for the line (vent?) from the carb to the charcoal canister.

 

[DRILLROD]

I assume this is correct from my back catalogue of pics (2012)

View attachment 90521

I am having that same issue. Wondering where that little bracket goes on my 84 restoration

 

[FLCJ8]

I am almost positive the bracket I pictured secured the rubber portion of the return line, maybe to the fender, could be losing my mind??

Yeah, my rubber portion of the line looks like it would secure to the fender if it was on.
Someone has to have a stock setup still, just have to wait till they see this post.
At least I'm helping by keeping it active
With all your pics you'll be busy for a while looking for it.

 

[spankrjs]

I assume this is correct from my back catalogue of pics (2012)

View attachment 90521

That's it, but not sure if that is the right spot??

 

[spankrjs]

Mine uses that clamp for the line (vent?) from the carb to the charcoal canister.

That might be what this one was doing, too?

 

[spankrjs]

Dave the Sparky and FLCJ8 are correct, it goes on the EGR valve, hangs down, holds a vapor line

 

[Belizeit]

When I bought an engine to rebuild, this is where it was. No idea if it is correct.

 

[spankrjs]

When I bought an engine to rebuild, this is where it was. No idea if it is correct.View attachment 90535

I have one or two of those on the driver side for the wiring harness

 

[spankrjs]

More easy work.

Ordered this fan shroud:





Much thinner than the two core radiator shroud, and a smaller fan opening vs the larger two core radiators larger diameter clutch fan.

Two core shroud below:



As much as I bad mouth Crown/Omix parts, their fan shrouds fit pretty good.

Three core radiator, three core shroud, smaller OD non clutch fan, fit together well:



Fan fits correctly at the top of the shroud. Shroud really does not contain fan at the bottom. BUT, I might have the grill pulled too far back at the top to get the fender/grill lines to match up.



That or the transmission may be sitting a bit too high. I will probably revisit this once the Scrambler is back on the ground.

Installed the radiator/heater hoses. The upper and lower radiator hoses are easy enough. The two hoses to/from the heater core only require trimming to suit how you want to route. All pretty easy.

 

[spankrjs]

I have been using this pre-moulded hose to run from the thermostat housing to the front of the intake manifold on stock 258 engines:





I found the part number on the internet, hose works great with a little work, much better than a big loop of heater hose up front.

The problem with this engine, easy to fix, was the front manifold heater hose fitting. It had this angled fitting that would not work with the hose:



Easy enough to remove this fitting and swap it for a straight fitting:



The manifold is tapped for 3/8 pipe thread, not easy to find at hardware/plumbing shops, but easy to find at auto parts places:



New fitting installed, before cutting the hose:



Trim the hose, install, like it was made for this application:



Don't throw away the cut off piece!!



Works perfect as a heater box drain pipe hose extension!!!



Still have a few odds and ends to finish up here, mainly installing the carburetor, priming oil pump, checking mechanical advance curve plate in the distributor, a few vacuum/vapor hoses/PCV system hoses, but getting closer to firing this thing back up:



Might switch gears and install all the new rear brake parts next. This will help clear out the bed of parts, and I am burnt out of working on the engine LOL.

That's it for now.

 

[spankrjs]

So, decided to take a break from the engine stuff and work on rear brakes.

On jack stands, noticed something wrong as soon as I pulled off the tires.



Just to confirm, but both rear axle bearings have way too much end play, should be around .005 MAX:



Strike 1.

Using the trusty hub puller:



Driver side hub would NOT come off. Put a little heat too hit, it came off, but the damage was done:



Strike 2.

Yep, bent the axle hub with the puller.

This is the 2nd time I have damaged a hub using the correct puller. For now on, if it won't budge after reasonable time/force, a little heat will be the magic trick.

Good news, amazingly, I found a NOS Jeep/Mopar hub on eBay and bought it. Already iffy using stock axles, NO way I will use a made in China axle hub. The NOS hub was made in Canada, eh.

Excessive bearing play meant everything inside the drums was covered in grease, like the back of this hub:



Used the torch, 20 seconds on each Torx bolt, all 12 diff cover bolts came out no problem.



All of these bolts have some kind of factory thread locker on them, like the shackle hanger/steering box mount bolts had on them. The torch/heat breaks it free and will enable the bolts to come out without stripping the stupid star out.

The fluid that came out was purplish, and the diff cover had a rubber gasket, maybe OEM that has never been changed/removed???



So pulled the differential cover off to drain the fluid, and to prevent it from leaking down the axle tubes once I pull the axles shafts out.

What do you know:





Hard to see, but one tooth busted off the driver side differential side gear.

Strike 3.