1984 SL Restoration
- Thread starter Jeep Addict
- Start date
Short work day today.
Removing brand new paint to allow for good ground points for the headlights:
Making new wire clips. Left is original, middle is unmodified new clip, far right is modified. These clips are a hair small for the tubing but worked well. You have to cut the little feet off the bottom of the clips because they sit so close to the inner face of the grill.
Another problem I have ran into with headlights, first time when I was in Hurricane, Utah: the prongs are too long AND they have these little "tits" sticking out. I bend the "tits" flat with pliers. I did NOT trim the length of the prongs on this set, might have to.
And almost finished with the driver side/grill wiring. Need to wire up the windshield squirter pump, after I install a new squirter tube:
And the headlight area. I left the little "blue three way" taps on the turn signal wires since I am pretty sure JeepAddict will be installing an 8274 Winch, with the auxillary turn signals mounted on the winch mount, so he can tie into the wiring here.
Short day, that's it for now!!!
Removing brand new paint to allow for good ground points for the headlights:
Making new wire clips. Left is original, middle is unmodified new clip, far right is modified. These clips are a hair small for the tubing but worked well. You have to cut the little feet off the bottom of the clips because they sit so close to the inner face of the grill.
Another problem I have ran into with headlights, first time when I was in Hurricane, Utah: the prongs are too long AND they have these little "tits" sticking out. I bend the "tits" flat with pliers. I did NOT trim the length of the prongs on this set, might have to.
And almost finished with the driver side/grill wiring. Need to wire up the windshield squirter pump, after I install a new squirter tube:
And the headlight area. I left the little "blue three way" taps on the turn signal wires since I am pretty sure JeepAddict will be installing an 8274 Winch, with the auxillary turn signals mounted on the winch mount, so he can tie into the wiring here.
Short day, that's it for now!!!
Did a little bit of work on this one before Monday Night Football. Nothing too exciting, but progress.
Grinding more new paint off for the windshield squirter pump ground:
New squirter hose, plus making a new squirter hose firewall grommet out of two grommets and 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive:
Installed the radiator, without the shroud, checking clearance:
I have 1-3/4" between fan bolts to core of radiator, so plenty of clearance. I will check to see how the fan falls in line with the fan shroud. Will probably leave it like this, I am assuming this is how it was from the factory. I have never ran across an OEM 7 bladed fixed fan before.
That's it for now!!
Grinding more new paint off for the windshield squirter pump ground:
New squirter hose, plus making a new squirter hose firewall grommet out of two grommets and 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive:
Installed the radiator, without the shroud, checking clearance:
I have 1-3/4" between fan bolts to core of radiator, so plenty of clearance. I will check to see how the fan falls in line with the fan shroud. Will probably leave it like this, I am assuming this is how it was from the factory. I have never ran across an OEM 7 bladed fixed fan before.
That's it for now!!
I just leave them bare metal. I guess eventually they will corrode, but easy enough to hit the rust with some emery cloth and have a good ground again.
I did the same thing on my red Scrambler 10 years ago, no corrosion yet. I think a lot of that has to do with how the Jeep is stored. My Jeeps are stored inside and driven frequently. If they sat outside neglected, could be an issue. It is pretty humid here, still no issues.
Not really sure what the "correct" answer should be
I did the same thing on my red Scrambler 10 years ago, no corrosion yet. I think a lot of that has to do with how the Jeep is stored. My Jeeps are stored inside and driven frequently. If they sat outside neglected, could be an issue. It is pretty humid here, still no issues.
Not really sure what the "correct" answer should be
I just leave them bare metal. I guess eventually they will corrode, but easy enough to hit the rust with some emery cloth and have a good ground again.
I did the same thing on my red Scrambler 10 years ago, no corrosion yet. I think a lot of that has to do with how the Jeep is stored. My Jeeps are stored inside and driven frequently. If they sat outside neglected, could be an issue. It is pretty humid here, still no issues.
Not really sure what the "correct" answer should be
I did the same thing on my red Scrambler 10 years ago, no corrosion yet. I think a lot of that has to do with how the Jeep is stored. My Jeeps are stored inside and driven frequently. If they sat outside neglected, could be an issue. It is pretty humid here, still no issues.
Not really sure what the "correct" answer should be
After tightening down not before as dielectric grease does not conduct. 
https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Special-Electrical-Contact-Corrosion/dp/B00HDF9EXE
Messing around with fan shrouds and radiators.
For reference, my Green Scrambler, factory HD cooling 2 core radiator, fan shroud, and 7 bladed 19" clutch fan.
Note how shroud profile matches contour of radiator:
Shroud sits flush along all four sides of radiator:
Blades come close to touching inside of shroud:
Same model shroud on OEM 3 core radiator, 15" 7 bladed fixed fan.
Shroud will NOT fit flush with radiator, big gaps:
Blade edges no where close to shroud.
I am going to say that the 2 core shroud will NOT work with a 3 core radiator.
For reference, my Green Scrambler, factory HD cooling 2 core radiator, fan shroud, and 7 bladed 19" clutch fan.
Note how shroud profile matches contour of radiator:
Shroud sits flush along all four sides of radiator:
Blades come close to touching inside of shroud:
Same model shroud on OEM 3 core radiator, 15" 7 bladed fixed fan.
Shroud will NOT fit flush with radiator, big gaps:
Blade edges no where close to shroud.
I am going to say that the 2 core shroud will NOT work with a 3 core radiator.
- City
- Molalla
- State
- Or
After tightening down not before as dielectric grease does not conduct.
This is the shroud that came on the Jeep. This "mod" pre-dates JeepAddict or me. Someone cut the bottom off a two core shroud and installed it.
Part number on shroud, pretty sure the same part number is on the intact 2 core radiator fan shroud.
I installed it, but will remove it, I do not see how this provides any benefit at all?
I have NO experience with this odd sized/bladed fan.
I am used to the 2 core radiators, with shroud, and the big 7 bladed clutch fan.
OR
I am used to the 3 core radiators, NO shroud, and the small 4 bladed fixed fan.
My now red Scrambler came with an OEM 3 core radiator, 4 bladed fixed fan, NO shroud, never ran hot.
My green Scrambler came with the 2 core radiator, shroud, big clutch fan, and even after adding AC does NOT ever run hot.
I converted my red Scrambler to the 2 core/shroud/clutch fan when I replaced the radiator. I like the idea that the clutch fan will not be such a load at high speeds, maybe free up a bit of power/MPG.
On this Scrambler, I am going to leave the 3 core radiator, 7 bladed fixed fan in place, see what it does?
Part number on shroud, pretty sure the same part number is on the intact 2 core radiator fan shroud.
I installed it, but will remove it, I do not see how this provides any benefit at all?
I have NO experience with this odd sized/bladed fan.
I am used to the 2 core radiators, with shroud, and the big 7 bladed clutch fan.
OR
I am used to the 3 core radiators, NO shroud, and the small 4 bladed fixed fan.
My now red Scrambler came with an OEM 3 core radiator, 4 bladed fixed fan, NO shroud, never ran hot.
My green Scrambler came with the 2 core radiator, shroud, big clutch fan, and even after adding AC does NOT ever run hot.
I converted my red Scrambler to the 2 core/shroud/clutch fan when I replaced the radiator. I like the idea that the clutch fan will not be such a load at high speeds, maybe free up a bit of power/MPG.
On this Scrambler, I am going to leave the 3 core radiator, 7 bladed fixed fan in place, see what it does?
Repaired the alternator plug:
The OEM small brown wire is a single strand wire:
Would probably be best to solder this wire to a connector/terminal. I did NOT. I bent it in half, carefully, stuck it inside a crimp, crimped it and heat sleeved it. I have done this a few time with no issue.
Loosely routing alternator/starter solenoid/passenger side engine wiring to determine best routing:
Still need to install the new coil connector:
That ties into the new ICM/distributor/"Nutter ByPass" harness I hacked out of my '85 Spring Special's damaged feedback harness.
Distributor plug end on the left, ICM plug on the right, before cleaning old grease out of the terminals:
Basically, orange will connect to orange, green connects to purple, and the black ground wire is actually running straight between the two plugs. I will cut this ground wire, put eyelets on each end, and ground both the distributor end and ICM end to the block on passenger side where the battery grounds. Something like that. This will be stand alone as well, no hacking into the other OEM harness.
Also hacked this piece out, I will use it to power the choke after removing all the obsolete wires.
Cleaner ways to do this, BUT I do NOT want to hack the stock harness, just in case someone ever want to reinstall all the feed back components.
That's it for now.
The OEM small brown wire is a single strand wire:
Would probably be best to solder this wire to a connector/terminal. I did NOT. I bent it in half, carefully, stuck it inside a crimp, crimped it and heat sleeved it. I have done this a few time with no issue.
Loosely routing alternator/starter solenoid/passenger side engine wiring to determine best routing:
Still need to install the new coil connector:
That ties into the new ICM/distributor/"Nutter ByPass" harness I hacked out of my '85 Spring Special's damaged feedback harness.
Distributor plug end on the left, ICM plug on the right, before cleaning old grease out of the terminals:
Basically, orange will connect to orange, green connects to purple, and the black ground wire is actually running straight between the two plugs. I will cut this ground wire, put eyelets on each end, and ground both the distributor end and ICM end to the block on passenger side where the battery grounds. Something like that. This will be stand alone as well, no hacking into the other OEM harness.
Also hacked this piece out, I will use it to power the choke after removing all the obsolete wires.
Cleaner ways to do this, BUT I do NOT want to hack the stock harness, just in case someone ever want to reinstall all the feed back components.
That's it for now.
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I have been plugging away on the engine bay wiring, a little each day. Not so much repairs, just routing.
I am using the original 1984 harness, but on a 1981 tub. The 1981's and 1982's route the wires a bit different along the firewall then the 1983 and up models I am more used to working on. Not major differences, and I am not doing some concourse restoration, just trying to run like OEM without adding any holes.
I actually went to Collins Brothers website and looked at a bunch of 1981/1982 models they sold as reference.
This is how I did it, similar to what I saw on the CB site, works out well.
Starting at the bulkhead connector, crossing over the brake booster bracket:
Two big plastic wire loom clips plug into OEM holes in the fire wall. I zip tied the intake manifold heater relay to the harness. I plan on running the choke wire out of the late model 6 pin connector. I have to research some more, pretty sure all I need coming out of the 6 pin is the choke wire.
Dropping down the passenger side of engine block. I have a metal bracket with a plastic clip I could mount to the block ground bolt hole to secure the harness here, but not going to. I want to leave the ground bolt for grounds ONLY. The reverse light/4wd indicator harness/connector is visible here, as well as the heater blower wire.
Running the harness loose past the distributor, it is secured between the distributor/back of alternator by an OEM block mounted metal tab.
It then runs down, and I secured it again by another block mounted OEM metal tab/plastic clip thing. I do not believe this is an OEM location for a bracket, but it works for me and keeps everything neat/secure/supported.
Still a work in progress, but I am happy with it so far. Still need to add the coil connector and the "Nutter Bypass" wire harness, but progress.
I am using the original 1984 harness, but on a 1981 tub. The 1981's and 1982's route the wires a bit different along the firewall then the 1983 and up models I am more used to working on. Not major differences, and I am not doing some concourse restoration, just trying to run like OEM without adding any holes.
I actually went to Collins Brothers website and looked at a bunch of 1981/1982 models they sold as reference.
This is how I did it, similar to what I saw on the CB site, works out well.
Starting at the bulkhead connector, crossing over the brake booster bracket:
Two big plastic wire loom clips plug into OEM holes in the fire wall. I zip tied the intake manifold heater relay to the harness. I plan on running the choke wire out of the late model 6 pin connector. I have to research some more, pretty sure all I need coming out of the 6 pin is the choke wire.
Dropping down the passenger side of engine block. I have a metal bracket with a plastic clip I could mount to the block ground bolt hole to secure the harness here, but not going to. I want to leave the ground bolt for grounds ONLY. The reverse light/4wd indicator harness/connector is visible here, as well as the heater blower wire.
Running the harness loose past the distributor, it is secured between the distributor/back of alternator by an OEM block mounted metal tab.
It then runs down, and I secured it again by another block mounted OEM metal tab/plastic clip thing. I do not believe this is an OEM location for a bracket, but it works for me and keeps everything neat/secure/supported.
Still a work in progress, but I am happy with it so far. Still need to add the coil connector and the "Nutter Bypass" wire harness, but progress.
Building my "Nutter Bypass" ignition harness out of a junk 1985 harness I have. Not saying this is the "right" way to do it, just how I am doing it. All my years of owning and driving CJ's, first time I have ever "Nutter'd" one, I think, could be wrong. The two 1978 CJ-7's I had came 'Nutter'd" from the factory, i.e. no feedback computer/carb/ignition. My green Scrambler had a working feed back system until I added Mopar MPI. My tan Scrambler had a TBI 350. My 1985 CJ-7 has a working feedback system. My red Scrambler came to me already "Nutter'd", then I added Mopar MPI. I think I "Nutter'd" "Project Yard Scrambler", will have to look back at that thread LOL.
Anyway, without the feed back computer in the loop, the ICM needs a way to talk to the distributor and the coil. So, started with the original feed back wiring that went between the distributor and ICM, cut from the big plug that went to the OEM under dash computer.
The internet says to twist these wires together, and the purple/orange wires from the distributor do come twisted together from the factory, so what the hell.
I mocked up the harness in place, plugging it into the ICM and the distributor, routing it along the firewall, to see how much to trim, where to splice, etc.
Two problems with the feedback harness 4 prong plug that goes to the ICM:
1.) purple wire goes into plug from ICM but no purple wire in the harness to plug into.
2.) Green wire from the ICM/harness plug stops short of the coil.
These are my "Redneck Ray" notes, please correct me if I am wrong:
So, I connected the two orange wires. The two black wires stay connected. I added length to the green wire to reach the negative side of the coil connector. And added a length of purple wire to the purple wire from the distributor to tie into the purple wire that come out of the ICM.
I will wrap this new harness in wire loom, tie/route it under the other harness, plug the two ends in, connect the green wire to the negative side coil connector, splice the purple wire to the purple coming out of the ICM, should be good to go.
That's it for now.
Anyway, without the feed back computer in the loop, the ICM needs a way to talk to the distributor and the coil. So, started with the original feed back wiring that went between the distributor and ICM, cut from the big plug that went to the OEM under dash computer.
The internet says to twist these wires together, and the purple/orange wires from the distributor do come twisted together from the factory, so what the hell.
I mocked up the harness in place, plugging it into the ICM and the distributor, routing it along the firewall, to see how much to trim, where to splice, etc.
Two problems with the feedback harness 4 prong plug that goes to the ICM:
1.) purple wire goes into plug from ICM but no purple wire in the harness to plug into.
2.) Green wire from the ICM/harness plug stops short of the coil.
These are my "Redneck Ray" notes, please correct me if I am wrong:
So, I connected the two orange wires. The two black wires stay connected. I added length to the green wire to reach the negative side of the coil connector. And added a length of purple wire to the purple wire from the distributor to tie into the purple wire that come out of the ICM.
I will wrap this new harness in wire loom, tie/route it under the other harness, plug the two ends in, connect the green wire to the negative side coil connector, splice the purple wire to the purple coming out of the ICM, should be good to go.
That's it for now.
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What better way to start the New Year then by working on a Scrambler!!!
Wrapped up my "spare parts Nutter By Pass Ignition Harness". The purple wire will tie into the purple wire coming out of the ICM, the green wire will go to the negative side of the coil connector:
The most "correct" way to connect the purple wire to the ICM would be with a new plug on the harness. No real way to add this wire to the existing plug, even though the prong is there inside. I wanted to keep this purple wire "serviceable", i.e. easy to swap out the ICM if needed. So, I "RedneckRay'd" it.
Waterproof, which is important, since the ICM mounts down low on the inner fender. And, easy enough to plug and unplug if needed.
I cut the purple wire loose from the ICM plug:
Added a plug to the now loose wire:
And added a plug to the loose wire coming out of my ICM harness:
I left this purple wire a bit long as a "service loop"; some spare wire in case the connector ever needs to be changed out.
So, now I have a completely plug and play ICM and harness. And, since I am such a nice guy, and already had all the tools and supplies out, I went ahead and made Tommy a spare ICM with its purple wire already modified to match the other one I just made. Spare part, plug in ready.
Mounted the ICM, ran the wire harness. I tied my ICM harness below the factory harness and followed its route across the firewall.
My previous "mock up" and measurements worked out well, harness is the correct length, with service slack. I love it when a plan comes together!!!
I secured the harness to an OEM block mounted tab below the distributor. Plenty of slack, keeps the harness above the messy oil filter, plug reaches the distributor plug easily, and plenty of excess green wire to connect to the coil connector.
Wrapped up my "spare parts Nutter By Pass Ignition Harness". The purple wire will tie into the purple wire coming out of the ICM, the green wire will go to the negative side of the coil connector:
The most "correct" way to connect the purple wire to the ICM would be with a new plug on the harness. No real way to add this wire to the existing plug, even though the prong is there inside. I wanted to keep this purple wire "serviceable", i.e. easy to swap out the ICM if needed. So, I "RedneckRay'd" it.
Waterproof, which is important, since the ICM mounts down low on the inner fender. And, easy enough to plug and unplug if needed.
I cut the purple wire loose from the ICM plug:
Added a plug to the now loose wire:
And added a plug to the loose wire coming out of my ICM harness:
I left this purple wire a bit long as a "service loop"; some spare wire in case the connector ever needs to be changed out.
So, now I have a completely plug and play ICM and harness. And, since I am such a nice guy, and already had all the tools and supplies out, I went ahead and made Tommy a spare ICM with its purple wire already modified to match the other one I just made. Spare part, plug in ready.
Mounted the ICM, ran the wire harness. I tied my ICM harness below the factory harness and followed its route across the firewall.
My previous "mock up" and measurements worked out well, harness is the correct length, with service slack. I love it when a plan comes together!!!
I secured the harness to an OEM block mounted tab below the distributor. Plenty of slack, keeps the harness above the messy oil filter, plug reaches the distributor plug easily, and plenty of excess green wire to connect to the coil connector.
One final picture of the passenger side wiring. All in all, I am pretty happy with it.
Changed out the coil next. Three things to note in the below picture:
1.) Where my finger is pointing on the coil bracket, the FSM mentions a "Radio Interference Capacitor" mounting here. The spare red wire that comes out of the OEM coil connector is supposed to plug into it. I have NEVER personally seen one of these capacitors present, let alone plugged in? Besides helping with interference on your AM radio, I wonder if it might help protect the ICM/feedback computer from the coils firing pulses?
2.) The shiny screw that tightens the coil bracket takes a small Phillips head screw driver.
3.) I loosened the coil bracket screw that is NOT visible in this picture to swap out the coils. The rear bolt is easier to get to. It is a T40 Torx, and the easier to get to back one took some effort to break free. The front bolt is a PIA to get to with the coil bracket in the way. Also, this front bolt secures the dip stick tube. Since the rear one took some manshit to break free, I decided to let this one alone. It would suck to bust it off in the block or strip it out. Let sleeping dogs lie, so to speak.
The coil that was installed looked like an old FoMoCo item:
I made sure my replacement coil matched the other one up top, so an OEM style coil connector could be used:
I left the rear coil bracket to block bolt loose while I tightened the bracket screw. Note the small screw driver. I also removed the cap and rotor to make it easier to get the screw driver back there. Also, you have to "clock" the coil so that the coil connector will slide on and not foul on the dip stick tube.
Coil installed, coil connector harness finished, coil connector in place.
Worked on installing the battery cables next. Grinding more new paint off, this time off the firewall, for a ground strap.
I mocked up the strap, traced its outline, grinded off the paint, wiped off the marks.
Changed out the coil next. Three things to note in the below picture:
1.) Where my finger is pointing on the coil bracket, the FSM mentions a "Radio Interference Capacitor" mounting here. The spare red wire that comes out of the OEM coil connector is supposed to plug into it. I have NEVER personally seen one of these capacitors present, let alone plugged in? Besides helping with interference on your AM radio, I wonder if it might help protect the ICM/feedback computer from the coils firing pulses?
2.) The shiny screw that tightens the coil bracket takes a small Phillips head screw driver.
3.) I loosened the coil bracket screw that is NOT visible in this picture to swap out the coils. The rear bolt is easier to get to. It is a T40 Torx, and the easier to get to back one took some effort to break free. The front bolt is a PIA to get to with the coil bracket in the way. Also, this front bolt secures the dip stick tube. Since the rear one took some manshit to break free, I decided to let this one alone. It would suck to bust it off in the block or strip it out. Let sleeping dogs lie, so to speak.
The coil that was installed looked like an old FoMoCo item:
I made sure my replacement coil matched the other one up top, so an OEM style coil connector could be used:
I left the rear coil bracket to block bolt loose while I tightened the bracket screw. Note the small screw driver. I also removed the cap and rotor to make it easier to get the screw driver back there. Also, you have to "clock" the coil so that the coil connector will slide on and not foul on the dip stick tube.
Coil installed, coil connector harness finished, coil connector in place.
Worked on installing the battery cables next. Grinding more new paint off, this time off the firewall, for a ground strap.
I mocked up the strap, traced its outline, grinded off the paint, wiped off the marks.