Quick simple fix: T5/T4 use a different reverse light switch then the T176. One is NC, one is NO. The wrong switch was installed in this transmission, so the lights would not work in reverse, but they worked in every other gear including neutral!!
So, all the column stuff works, BUT sometimes the Jeep will still not turn off with the key. All other ignition switch controled items shut down EXCEPT the Sniper and the MSD ignition. No big deal, diode is on the way, will install it on the brown alternator wire. This is a some what common issue with some fuel injection/ignition set ups. The MSD 6AL actually includes a diode. A little bit of current will back feed down the alternator wire. Not a lot, but enough to keep the ECU/MSD on.
On the stiff clutch, maybe a solution.
On a stock CJ, and stock YJ (1987 - 1990, later years could be different), the clutch master cylinders are a hair small then the slave cylinder:
CJ Master - 13/16
CJ Slave - 7/8
YJ Master - 11/16
YJ Slave - 3/4
So, I went to NAPA and spent $32.00 on a 1990 YJ clutch master cylinder:
Top to bottom:
OEM CJ (replacement)
Novak 3/4" MC
NAPA 1990 YJ
The YJ unit bolted right into place, no issues.
And, the clutch is much easier to push down.
I have too much play at the slave cylinder right now, need to tighten this up. The clutch works perfectly, but all the action is at the floor and 2" off floor. Once I tighten up the slave cylinder, it should be perfect.
Not going to say this is a cure all just yet until after I adjust the slave cylinder. But, it is working great now, almost as easy to work the clutch as the stock CJ AMC 4 cylinder set up.
IF this slightly small master cylinder works out, Wilwood makes a single cylinder master cylinder that should bolt up to a CJ, just a little bit of work on the pedal end: Wilwood GS Compact Integral Master Cylinder 260-15097 (.70", 11/16" is .6875 so close enough). The Wilwood has an integral reservoir, not the crappy plastic type like the parts stores carry. It cost around $80, but might be the ticket.
I am NOT a hydraulic expert, so I can not tell you why a slightly smaller MC in comparison to the slave makes it easier to push in the clutch
All I know is that AMC/Chrysler did it this way, and the clutch pedal is easy to push. Personally, I prefer my mechanical linkage. It is easy to push down and works. I do go trail riding, never have had the linkage fall to pieces (I am using heim jointed rods, but stock bell crank). IF I had tires bigger then 35" and played with the big boys on +4' tall boulders and had one ton axles, I can see the hydraulic option making sense. But for me and mine, and my use, the OEM mechanical linkage works
