Belizeit's 1984 CJ-7 Engine Swap/Upgrade
- Thread starter spankrjs
- Start date
- City
- Richmond
- State
- TX
Just a fine point on AFR, 14.7 is the “ideal” air fuel ratio. This is the balance where it is not rich nor lean. “stoichiometric”
Anything numerically under 14.7 is rich, anything over 14.7 is lean.
9:1 would be considered very rich, without catalytic converters, I would think you could see brown smoke out the exhaust with that much fuel.
Here are the target AFRs I am using:
Here is my monitor display, note the start target AFR is 12.1
I have not noticed any bogging or pinging at WOT with the 13.0 target, but I think it could be a little richer. I still have some adjustments to make on my throttle linkage as I am only getting 80% when the pedal is on the floor. I have a spacer under the pedal, so I get more throw on the pedal than stock, but it might not be enough with the weird RHD setup. Just one more thing to look for, especially useful since the ecu reports throttle position as a %.
When I coast to a stop my AFR spikes to between 15 - 16, but settles down once stopped and fuel is added to maintain idle rpm. You might not see that with a manual transmission unless under engine braking while in gear.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Smells a tad rich but not terrible. Also smells like engine paint/exhaust pipe oil burning off. We only drove it about 70 miles or so, the more we drove the better it got. Might just need to drive it some more.
Too many new variables at one time - new engine, fuel injection, and ignition system.
Air fuel was around 12 while driving, would drop to 9 when accelerating. Monitor still says learning.
Besides the tingling, no real issues. I am going to recheck base timing, maybe dial it down from the current 8-9. But, total timing while driving at speed is around 30 total, up to 32 max. This engine has a mild cam, I don't think they decked the head to increase compression ratio or anything crazy.
No noise at idle or cruise, just on initial acceleration. I put 87 octane non-ethanol in it. Could always add octane booster, but I am hoping it is just a Sniper learning issue, but it is never that easy for me......
Too many new variables at one time - new engine, fuel injection, and ignition system.
Air fuel was around 12 while driving, would drop to 9 when accelerating. Monitor still says learning.
Besides the tingling, no real issues. I am going to recheck base timing, maybe dial it down from the current 8-9. But, total timing while driving at speed is around 30 total, up to 32 max. This engine has a mild cam, I don't think they decked the head to increase compression ratio or anything crazy.
No noise at idle or cruise, just on initial acceleration. I put 87 octane non-ethanol in it. Could always add octane booster, but I am hoping it is just a Sniper learning issue, but it is never that easy for me......
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Did some adjusting/test driving last night, some good results:
1) I had originally set the base timing at 8. I then "ear balled" it later on. Well, I had the base up around 16, backed it back down to 8, no more "tingling". I am going to go back with two "medium" strength springs, I currently have two "stiff" springs installed. The advance is really slow as it currently sits.
2) I had originally commented on how this thing sounds kind of like a diesel, and Andy noticed it, too. It only sounds this way at idle. Last night I got out my "RedneckRay stethescope" (i.e. a 3' long piece of heater hose) and listened to the engine. Good news, valve cover area, head, block, and all front accessories sound normal. The noise comes from the driver side, and I found it. The noise is from the Sniper injectors cycling at idle, they are really loud!!!! Once above idle, you can't hear them, but at idle, even with hood closed, you can hear it. I have had Howell and GM TBI before, and you could kind of hear a slight tick from the injectors pulsing/firing. The injectors on this Sniper are super loud, so much so I at first thought it was valves clattering!!! I kind of figured it was not engine related because it does not coincide with RPM, only at idle. I am going to verify fuel pressure to make sure that is not a cause for the noise, but I doubt it. I have no performance complaints, the A/F is getting closer and closer to target the more I drive it, might just be the nature of the beast. Google revealed a few people commenting on how noisy there Holley Sniper systems are, anybody else run across this issue before???
That's it for now
1) I had originally set the base timing at 8. I then "ear balled" it later on. Well, I had the base up around 16, backed it back down to 8, no more "tingling". I am going to go back with two "medium" strength springs, I currently have two "stiff" springs installed. The advance is really slow as it currently sits.
2) I had originally commented on how this thing sounds kind of like a diesel, and Andy noticed it, too. It only sounds this way at idle. Last night I got out my "RedneckRay stethescope" (i.e. a 3' long piece of heater hose) and listened to the engine. Good news, valve cover area, head, block, and all front accessories sound normal. The noise comes from the driver side, and I found it. The noise is from the Sniper injectors cycling at idle, they are really loud!!!! Once above idle, you can't hear them, but at idle, even with hood closed, you can hear it. I have had Howell and GM TBI before, and you could kind of hear a slight tick from the injectors pulsing/firing. The injectors on this Sniper are super loud, so much so I at first thought it was valves clattering!!! I kind of figured it was not engine related because it does not coincide with RPM, only at idle. I am going to verify fuel pressure to make sure that is not a cause for the noise, but I doubt it. I have no performance complaints, the A/F is getting closer and closer to target the more I drive it, might just be the nature of the beast. Google revealed a few people commenting on how noisy there Holley Sniper systems are, anybody else run across this issue before???
That's it for now
Trevor Davidson
Member
- City
- Kitchener
- State
- On
Good afternoon,,
First off awesome job on Jeep !! During the test runs hows has the hydraulic clutch set up been working ?
First off awesome job on Jeep !! During the test runs hows has the hydraulic clutch set up been working ?
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Thanks
Unfortunately, the hydraulic portion of the clutch system has not been working well at all. Stiff pedal, inconsistent feel, inconsistent engage point, and half the time the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. Not happy with it at all.
I was pushing the clutch pedal in and out by hand tonight in the garage, and this happened:
Clutch master cylinder puking fluid out where the plastic reservoir fits into the metal body. At least it is not dripping on sheet metal.
I am going to reinstall the original clutch master cylinder and see if that fixes all the clutch woes.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Swapped in the two medium strength advance springs and swapped out the blue stop bushing:
It is possible to swap these bushings out without pulling the distributor, but it will test your patience!!
I swapped in a green bushing. I find it easy to bump the engine over with the starter to get this bushing post more accessible.
I took this picture just to make sure the bushing and washer were still on the post when I got the nut started, hard to view by eyesight alone:
A quick test drive showed a bit of "tingling" again, so I will swap out one medium spring for one hard spring and retest. At least the springs are easy to swap in and out!!!
That's it for now
It is possible to swap these bushings out without pulling the distributor, but it will test your patience!!
I swapped in a green bushing. I find it easy to bump the engine over with the starter to get this bushing post more accessible.
I took this picture just to make sure the bushing and washer were still on the post when I got the nut started, hard to view by eyesight alone:
A quick test drive showed a bit of "tingling" again, so I will swap out one medium spring for one hard spring and retest. At least the springs are easy to swap in and out!!!
That's it for now
Chamba
Not obsessed: focused.
- City
- Vero Beach
- State
- FL
I have the Novak clutch master and slave in my AX15/351 (with a YJ pedal tee). It's definitely not as smooth as I'd like and it's really hard to push. I've always chalked that up to my choosing the medium pressure plate instead of the soft, but now you've got me thinking.
I've not had any of the inconsistency issues you've had though, nor the regurgitating fluid issues. But it does leak very slightly (I top it up every oil change-2000 miles- about 1/2" up the reservoir) and it's pretty stiff.
You're far smarter and more dedicated than I am, so I'm anxious to see your solution. My solution has been to wait until I can afford the R2.8 swap and hope their master/ slave setup is better.
I've not had any of the inconsistency issues you've had though, nor the regurgitating fluid issues. But it does leak very slightly (I top it up every oil change-2000 miles- about 1/2" up the reservoir) and it's pretty stiff.
You're far smarter and more dedicated than I am, so I'm anxious to see your solution. My solution has been to wait until I can afford the R2.8 swap and hope their master/ slave setup is better.
Trevor Davidson
Member
- City
- Kitchener
- State
- On
I have the 7/8 novak slave cylinder and the same master cylinder pictured,which is very inconsistent feel.
The 7/8 slave cylinder is pretty easy to push but engagement is way down at firewall and the master almost feels notchy if that makes sense.
The 7/8 slave cylinder is pretty easy to push but engagement is way down at firewall and the master almost feels notchy if that makes sense.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Pushed this one outside this afternoon to swap out clutch master cylinders:
I was going to swap in the clutch master cylinder that was installed in this Jeep, and was working a few years ago. But, the piston is frozen in the bore, I couldn't get it loose, even with compressed air. It also had a lot of gunk inside of it, and very nasty fluid.
So, I reinstalled the Novak master cylinder. It was leaking fluid where the plastic reservoir goes over the metal body. I tightened the little spring screw thing as tight as I dared, seems to have quit leaking. I pumped up the pedal, held it down, and loosened the metal line fitting at the master cylinder, bleeding the MC first. Did this three times, then bled the slave. Hosed everything down with water to rinse off the brake fluid, hence why I pushed it outside!!!
So, quick test drive. The clutch works, and works consistently. No leaks so far. But, the pedal is still stiff, I would say it is stiffer then the OEM mechanical linkage. It works, but it is not a "light feel" like the stock '85 four cylinder CJ-7 in the yard. More research needed
The StrongHold shift boot for the T176/twin stick Dana 300 showed up today, so I installed it. Looks great, fits perfect, excellent product IMO:
Swapped out one medium advance spring for one stiff spring, seems about perfect.
The Jeep decided to not want to shut down with the key OFF randomly a few times over the last couple of days. Today it randomly shut off twice while driving down the road. The ignition switch does not really positively lock into position(s) anymore, probably wore out after 240k miles!! Will swap in a new switch and report back.
That's it for now.
I was going to swap in the clutch master cylinder that was installed in this Jeep, and was working a few years ago. But, the piston is frozen in the bore, I couldn't get it loose, even with compressed air. It also had a lot of gunk inside of it, and very nasty fluid.
So, I reinstalled the Novak master cylinder. It was leaking fluid where the plastic reservoir goes over the metal body. I tightened the little spring screw thing as tight as I dared, seems to have quit leaking. I pumped up the pedal, held it down, and loosened the metal line fitting at the master cylinder, bleeding the MC first. Did this three times, then bled the slave. Hosed everything down with water to rinse off the brake fluid, hence why I pushed it outside!!!
So, quick test drive. The clutch works, and works consistently. No leaks so far. But, the pedal is still stiff, I would say it is stiffer then the OEM mechanical linkage. It works, but it is not a "light feel" like the stock '85 four cylinder CJ-7 in the yard. More research needed
The StrongHold shift boot for the T176/twin stick Dana 300 showed up today, so I installed it. Looks great, fits perfect, excellent product IMO:
Swapped out one medium advance spring for one stiff spring, seems about perfect.
The Jeep decided to not want to shut down with the key OFF randomly a few times over the last couple of days. Today it randomly shut off twice while driving down the road. The ignition switch does not really positively lock into position(s) anymore, probably wore out after 240k miles!! Will swap in a new switch and report back.
That's it for now.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Swapped out the ignition switch tonight:
The old one definitely had some slack to it, the new one is nice and tight. Unfortunately, this just really brought to light how wore out the lock cylinder is!!!
I will pull the column apart tomorrow night, Andy should be by Saturday morning with some new parts.
That's it for now
The old one definitely had some slack to it, the new one is nice and tight. Unfortunately, this just really brought to light how wore out the lock cylinder is!!!
I will pull the column apart tomorrow night, Andy should be by Saturday morning with some new parts.
That's it for now
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Waiting on the replacement lock cylinder:
The steering wheel lock pin was sticking, a little lube freed it up. The lock cylinder partially fell apart while removing it, and it definitely does not turn freely. The little rack and cam gear look and move good. Hopefully just a new lock cylinder will fix it up
The steering wheel lock pin was sticking, a little lube freed it up. The lock cylinder partially fell apart while removing it, and it definitely does not turn freely. The little rack and cam gear look and move good. Hopefully just a new lock cylinder will fix it up
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
Andy made it over, we installed the new lock cylinder, some improvement but still not right.
We got about 3 hours of driving in today, Jeep is running great, no real issues. The Sniper is still "learning" according to the LCD.
I will try to get this steering column issue nailed down tomorrow.......
We got about 3 hours of driving in today, Jeep is running great, no real issues. The Sniper is still "learning" according to the LCD.
I will try to get this steering column issue nailed down tomorrow.......
- City
- Redding
- State
- Ca
That looks great! Jason at StrongHold is working on one for me now. NV-4500 and Twin Stick Atlas II.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
I was not happy with how the whole ignition key/switch was working, so down the rabbit hole:
First clue of what the issue could be, 36 years of grime:
All of the little fiddly sliding/rotating parts were covered in ancient thick grease and grime:
I was thinking the little rack and gear were buggered up, nope, just jammed up with crud:
Not doing a step by step rebuild, I did that in my red Scrambler thread. Non-tilt columns are pretty easy to rebuild. A little grease, the FSM, and patience are all it takes. Cleaned all the parts up, no damage or issues found, just jammed up with grime.
And with the miracle of the internet, all back together and working properly, smooth as butter:
A few more little odds and ends to clean up and this one will be going back to Andy. Took it for a 30 minute drive this afternoon, running great. The Sniper still says it is "learning", with only maybe 250 miles on it I guess that is to be expected??
I really like the way the 3.54 gears feel with the 31" tires. My green Scrambler has 3.31 gears and 31'" tires, and I wish it had just a bit deeper gear. After driving this one around I will probably spend the money to swap in 3.54's. Not much of a gear ratio jump, but it is a noticeable difference.
That's it for now
First clue of what the issue could be, 36 years of grime:
All of the little fiddly sliding/rotating parts were covered in ancient thick grease and grime:
I was thinking the little rack and gear were buggered up, nope, just jammed up with crud:
Not doing a step by step rebuild, I did that in my red Scrambler thread. Non-tilt columns are pretty easy to rebuild. A little grease, the FSM, and patience are all it takes. Cleaned all the parts up, no damage or issues found, just jammed up with grime.
And with the miracle of the internet, all back together and working properly, smooth as butter:
A few more little odds and ends to clean up and this one will be going back to Andy. Took it for a 30 minute drive this afternoon, running great. The Sniper still says it is "learning", with only maybe 250 miles on it I guess that is to be expected??
I really like the way the 3.54 gears feel with the 31" tires. My green Scrambler has 3.31 gears and 31'" tires, and I wish it had just a bit deeper gear. After driving this one around I will probably spend the money to swap in 3.54's. Not much of a gear ratio jump, but it is a noticeable difference.
That's it for now
Trevor Davidson
Member
- City
- Kitchener
- State
- On
In regards to sniper install ,did you guys up the fuel supply line size from 5/16 to 3/8?
