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Pappy's Adventure - 1981 restomod

Not doing a full rebuild of the D300 while it's out but all new seals are planned. JB conversions heavier ball and springs to reduce the chances of the twin stick popping out as much going down hill.

Lots to do. Back to work...

My wheeling buddy always eager to get his hands dirty.
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Sucks to read the issues with the cage as I was considering it down the road. Looks like I might have to reconsider my options now. Excellent progress on the rest of the project though!
 
Make sure that pilot bushing does NOT stick to a magnet. The one Novak sent me years ago with my AX15 did not last long. Make sure you use a real Oilite bushing. Stronghold makes a great shifter boot.
 
spankrjs said:
Make sure that pilot bushing does NOT stick to a magnet. The one Novak sent me years ago with my AX15 did not last long. Make sure you use a real Oilite bushing. Stronghold makes a great shifter boot.
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Thank ya Spank. I referenced your install extensively. I'll check to see if it's magnetic. Novak sent me it.
 
After a lot of fitting then removing them fitting again the trans is finally in. For good hopefully this time.
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I was able to use the stock skid with Novak's adjustable mount. Pretty tight clearance on one of the bolts to the drain plug but that'll rarely be an issue.
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The B&M shifter comes through the tub in almost the same position as the SR4. Pretty happy about that. Feels good from the driver's seat. The shifter that came stock had a vent on the top. Has anyone run into venting problems running the B&M? I've seen a few posts about tapping an NPT nipple into it.
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I settled on the 16* clocking angle. The 8* wouldn't work as I don't have a body lift. I ended up cutting off one of the mounting ears as it hits the transmission otherwise.
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I'm using a combination of hardware from JB Fab and Novak for the twin sticks as the transfer case is about 3 inches further back. It's tight. The outboard shifter rubs the tub. I'm thinking about cutting them at the red line and welding them lower. Should gain 1/2" of clearance by doing that. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Hoping to start the D300 tear down this week.
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Without a body lift that gold bolt head is going to be banging against the body tub with any powertrain movement. I'm not sure how you could cut/reweld the shifters and keep that bolt from hitting. I could be wrong. On my red Scrambler, even with a 1" body lift, I have definitely lost some paint in that area, even after adjusting washers/shims/etc to gain clearance. :shrug:
 
Thanks for all the suggestions folks! Body lift is out. I'm very close to my clearance limit on my garage door as it is... Not sure knocking down the garage is ok with Mrs Pappy right now... :ROFLMAO:

I may grind down the head of that bolt at an angle to start.
 
cut / reweld.... if you can cut and reweld, you for sure have a grinder. We even have those in Canada!! :D
Besides, if your drivetrain is moving that much, time for some stiffer engine and trans mounts!!
 
TimmyTooTall said:
I settled on the 16* clocking angle. The 8* wouldn't work as I don't have a body lift. I ended up cutting off one of the mounting ears as it hits the transmission otherwise.
View attachment 116188

I'm using a combination of hardware from JB Fab and Novak for the twin sticks as the transfer case is about 3 inches further back. It's tight. The outboard shifter rubs the tub. I'm thinking about cutting them at the red line and welding them lower. Should gain 1/2" of clearance by doing that. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Hoping to start the D300 tear down this week.
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To fit my JB fab kit I had the same issue with the shifter stick binding on the tub, I didn't want to do a body lift or transfer drop either.

I ended up cutting the tub and welding a relief area into it, I'd shorten the sticks though if I were you. Also it's very difficult to get the transfer case installed without dropping the transmission crossmember since you can't take the shifter stick bolt out.
 
TimmyTooTall said:
Thanks for all the suggestions folks! Body lift is out. I'm very close to my clearance limit on my garage door as it is... Not sure knocking down the garage is ok with Mrs Pappy right now... :ROFLMAO:

I may grind down the head of that bolt at an angle to start.
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Great job with all the work Tim!

I was planning on running 37's on my Scrambler. It will fit in my garage without the soft top on, but the extra height of the middle bow would prevent that. Even with the 35's, before the new leaf springs settled a bit, I hit the top coming in one day that I had the spare tire off. I had to seal a couple of pin holes the stucco made in the top. I do have a 1" body lift. Next house will need taller garage doors! (or better yet, a separate shop)

I saw on your punch list "AC Install". I am getting close to pulling the trigger on that too with a Jeepair kit and compressor for my Chevy 350. I just need to make sure the motor that goes up under the dash will clear my custom AutoMeter gauges. The tach and speedometer are pretty deep.

Take care,

George
 
When you guys want those bigger shops with taller doors, you know a guy :thumbsup:

I LOVE having the 1" body lift on mine for access for maintenance alone.

Seriously though, how did no one suggest a rounded allen head bolt instead? Lose the washer and switch it out.

Other thought, a hole saw and a matching rubber/plastic cover/plug in the tunnel would give access to that bolt to get the shifters out if you ever needed to remove them with the t-case in place. Something to think about if you're already considering welding in a relief.
 
Before
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After!
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All new seals, fresh coat of paint and JB fabs spring kit in the shifter rails. Getting those in and out we're a bugger. It's in and working well. MT90 fluid in the AX15, tom woods double cardan rear shaft and I've gotten a few break in drives done. I'm thankful and always surprised when I put something back together that the TC hasn't grenaded 🤣🤣

Had to adjust the clutch linkage a bit as it was releasing almost all the way to the floor. It's better now but still needs some adjustment. The pressure plate went from a 3 finger to a LUK one with finger all around. It's a bit harder to push the pedal. I assume that's normal and will break in with time? Also the throw out bearing makes a screech noise on initial contact with the pressure plate. I've read that noise will subside with time as well.

The B&M shifter is sweet. Crisp tight shifts. It'll take some time to get used to vs the slop the SR4 had. Good to have 5th gear back.
 
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Sticks cut shorter and rewelded for tub clearance.
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Check out my woody!
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I wanted the sight tube since it's "clocked"
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Allen head bolt gave the necessary tub clearance on the shifters. That stupid bolt was $12 from Fastenal 😬
It was pretty tricky to get this extended linkage and the shifters bent in the right position. Had to find a happy place that gave clearance with the center console but also the jeep air unit that's going in shortly.
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Talking with stronghold about boot options. With the TC clocked it moved the sticks a bit closer to the trans than before.
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