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bigwalton's Postal Stroker

spankrjs said:
The OEM 4.0 evap canisters have worked perfectly on both of my Scramblers with fuel injection. No real reason to reinvent the wheel?
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Under hood space is going to be at a premium. Don’t want that monster under there.
 
I believe the TJ/LJ has the system tucked up behind the rear wheel, may save a bit of lines running up to the engine compartment.
I'll try to check the FSM later.
 
Late model TJ/LJ are an evap nightmare. The fuel tank has a pressure pump, ecm randomly activates pump to pressurize tank, pressure sensors monitor leak down rates......

The OBD1 4.0 underhood canister fits inside the OEM CJ bracket, so doesn't really steal space, it's all hid below the coolant overflow tank and windshield fluid tank. At least on regular hand drive, wrong side drive might be different?
 
I had the ‘97 4.0 canister in it and hooked up all official on the firewall so I am aware and would rather have that space back. I was ignorantly expecting something very simple and cheap in the aftermarket just as a basic filter.
 
spankrjs said:
Late model TJ/LJ are an evap nightmare. The fuel tank has a pressure pump, ecm randomly activates pump to pressurize tank, pressure sensors monitor leak down rates......

The OBD1 4.0 underhood canister fits inside the OEM CJ bracket, so doesn't really steal space, it's all hid below the coolant overflow tank and windshield fluid tank. At least on regular hand drive, wrong side drive might be different?
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Thanks, saved me the trouble of looking.
I never had an issue with mine so wasn't aware of the headaches, did have the slow fuel fill problem though.
 
bigwalton said:
I had the ‘97 4.0 canister in it and hooked up all official on the firewall so I am aware and would rather have that space back. I was ignorantly expecting something very simple and cheap in the aftermarket just as a basic filter.
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It touches fuel/emissions...can't be anything simple or cheap.
 
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Used a long stainless screw to put the split ring inside the tank. When you let go of the ring, the weight of the ring cocks the screw and it stays put. Made it easy to get the gasket on. Painted it with non-hardening permatex fuel proof gasket maker.

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Had to cut down the upper shackle bolt and pull the washer I had in there, but the new tank is in.

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All I know is that I would NOT want to have to drop this beyatch with fuel in it on the side of the road. Holy crap. Very happy with a proper skid, in-tank pump and the hatch.
:bacon:

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bigwalton said:
Had to cut down the upper shackle bolt and pull the washer I had in there, but the new tank is in.

View attachment 122905

All I know is that I would NOT want to have to drop this beyatch with fuel in it on the side of the road. Holy crap. Very happy with a proper skid, in-tank pump and the hatch.
:bacon:

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Used to use the stud trick for assembling parking lot fixtures, I liked to use a stud so it could easily be removed and replaced with the fixture bolts after the other bolts were in. (y)
 
FLCJ8 said:
Used to use the stud trick for assembling parking lot fixtures, I liked to use a stud so it could easily be removed and replaced with the fixture bolts after the other bolts were in. (y)
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No need to replace it. This seems to work perfectly and I have plenty of clearance for it.
 
Kind of cool how you can see that the Postal undercoating went on after assembly (at least after the fuel tank/hoses/filler were in.)

Still pliable and tenacious as hell. Cleaned this up prior to reinstalling.

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Pretty sure they applied the undercoating after the full assembly. Got that stuff all over the Overlander. Axles, brake lines, fuel lines, wire harnesses. Like a rubber asphalt mess.
 
ag4ever said:
Pretty sure they applied the undercoating after the full assembly. Got that stuff all over the Overlander. Axles, brake lines, fuel lines, wire harnesses. Like a rubber asphalt mess.
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But damn if it doesn’t work well!
 
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