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bigwalton's Postal Stroker

spankrjs said:
The OEM 4.0 evap canisters have worked perfectly on both of my Scramblers with fuel injection. No real reason to reinvent the wheel?
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Under hood space is going to be at a premium. Don’t want that monster under there.
 
I believe the TJ/LJ has the system tucked up behind the rear wheel, may save a bit of lines running up to the engine compartment.
I'll try to check the FSM later.
 
Late model TJ/LJ are an evap nightmare. The fuel tank has a pressure pump, ecm randomly activates pump to pressurize tank, pressure sensors monitor leak down rates......

The OBD1 4.0 underhood canister fits inside the OEM CJ bracket, so doesn't really steal space, it's all hid below the coolant overflow tank and windshield fluid tank. At least on regular hand drive, wrong side drive might be different?
 
I had the ‘97 4.0 canister in it and hooked up all official on the firewall so I am aware and would rather have that space back. I was ignorantly expecting something very simple and cheap in the aftermarket just as a basic filter.
 
spankrjs said:
Late model TJ/LJ are an evap nightmare. The fuel tank has a pressure pump, ecm randomly activates pump to pressurize tank, pressure sensors monitor leak down rates......

The OBD1 4.0 underhood canister fits inside the OEM CJ bracket, so doesn't really steal space, it's all hid below the coolant overflow tank and windshield fluid tank. At least on regular hand drive, wrong side drive might be different?
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Thanks, saved me the trouble of looking.
I never had an issue with mine so wasn't aware of the headaches, did have the slow fuel fill problem though.
 
bigwalton said:
I had the ‘97 4.0 canister in it and hooked up all official on the firewall so I am aware and would rather have that space back. I was ignorantly expecting something very simple and cheap in the aftermarket just as a basic filter.
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It touches fuel/emissions...can't be anything simple or cheap.
 
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Used a long stainless screw to put the split ring inside the tank. When you let go of the ring, the weight of the ring cocks the screw and it stays put. Made it easy to get the gasket on. Painted it with non-hardening permatex fuel proof gasket maker.

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Had to cut down the upper shackle bolt and pull the washer I had in there, but the new tank is in.

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All I know is that I would NOT want to have to drop this beyatch with fuel in it on the side of the road. Holy crap. Very happy with a proper skid, in-tank pump and the hatch.
:bacon:

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bigwalton said:
Had to cut down the upper shackle bolt and pull the washer I had in there, but the new tank is in.

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All I know is that I would NOT want to have to drop this beyatch with fuel in it on the side of the road. Holy crap. Very happy with a proper skid, in-tank pump and the hatch.
:bacon:

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Used to use the stud trick for assembling parking lot fixtures, I liked to use a stud so it could easily be removed and replaced with the fixture bolts after the other bolts were in. (y)
 
FLCJ8 said:
Used to use the stud trick for assembling parking lot fixtures, I liked to use a stud so it could easily be removed and replaced with the fixture bolts after the other bolts were in. (y)
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No need to replace it. This seems to work perfectly and I have plenty of clearance for it.
 
bigwalton said:
No need to replace it. This seems to work perfectly and I have plenty of clearance for it.
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Just throwing it out there for times when one doesn't have clearance but needs to accomplish the same task. :thumbsup:
 
Kind of cool how you can see that the Postal undercoating went on after assembly (at least after the fuel tank/hoses/filler were in.)

Still pliable and tenacious as hell. Cleaned this up prior to reinstalling.

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Small victories… just the new lines, power and electrical bits for the fuel tank. Was nice to put the cap back on…
 

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Pretty sure they applied the undercoating after the full assembly. Got that stuff all over the Overlander. Axles, brake lines, fuel lines, wire harnesses. Like a rubber asphalt mess.
 
ag4ever said:
Pretty sure they applied the undercoating after the full assembly. Got that stuff all over the Overlander. Axles, brake lines, fuel lines, wire harnesses. Like a rubber asphalt mess.
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But damn if it doesn’t work well!
 
Big day. Kate decided the engine needed to be in and so it was.

Swapped in the MORE motor mounts with Kate between the frame rails.
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Our ACE had heavy grade 8 washers, so I got them and ground them to fit each spot on the mounts. Didn’t get a pic of the other side.
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She’s in. Next up is fuel lines and fuel pressure regulator, then getting the electrical done on the engine side enough to get it to fire.
 
bigwalton said:
Oh boy...

I committed to buy a stroker build that @Cincyjeeprs son Sam built for his Scrambler and has had for some time, but never put the Jeep together with it. (Sam is @Samweldspoorly on here but I think he only posted once.)

As sad as I am to see Sam's rig not get finished, I get it, and I hope to give this a proper home.

This will fulfill two needs: my years' long plan to end up with a stroker and this sick engine to be powering a Scrambler.

Build was targeting: 325hp/350tq with peak tourque around 1800rpm and run on 87. Should be fun :smokin:

When I swapped the 4.0 in the Postal years ago, this was the plan.

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(It's so pretty, it's almost a shame to be putting in my junk :rotfl: )


More details to come, lots of things to finalize yet and TONS more photos to post. Sam documented the CRAP out of this build.
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That looks beautiful!
 
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