Craigslist. It was posted on a Friday, I found it Sunday, and bought it on Monday. Just absolute dumb luck. I was grinding on my frame on Saturday and was fretting over what I was going to do when it came up on a search for cj8. It did not come up when I searched for cj or jeep or any other term. It was weird how you almost had to match the listing name for it to come up in the search results.
Regardless, I am feeling lucky.
It also came with:
Couple sets of spring brackets
4 Mickey Thompson 15x10 rims
Smithybilt stinger bumper
D300 in a box (disassembled)
Box of D20 parts
Unknown transmission case
2 speedometers, oil, volt gages
2+ sets of manual clutch linkages
6 round headlight bulbs
Fender turn signals
Grill turn signals
2 sets of Bimini top windshield brackets
15 gallon poly gas tank
DJ (?) grill
Set of seat belts
3 side rear view mirrors
Misc bearings and seals and u-joints
Dash (DJ ?)
And some other yet to be identified stuff
Also got a rotisserie as well.
But the frame was really all I wanted, but it was an all or nothing deal. He offered a set of DJ axles, some seats, and other parts for free as well, but I had no need and my truck and trailer were full up.
CJs came that way from the factory, so I assume it will fit no problem. I have manual brakes on mine currently, but plan to use hydroboost since I am going with the LS and don't want to deal with vacuum issues. So, I don't envision a clearance issue for my setup.
Mine was originally a 151ci I-4 "Iron Duke" base model, with power steering, manual brakes and hydraulic clutch setup. Previous owner's uncle had it converted to a 232ci I-6 from a '79 AMC Spirit. They pulled the hydraulic clutch setup and installed the manual linkage setup, including replacing the brake pedal assembly with the manual linkage part.
Also interested in the frame plate protocol. I think sleeving mount holes is generally a good idea, but there might be enough surface area on the mounts to not collapse the frame box too much. My worry with sleeving is if it removes too much of the frame beam material to clearance for the sleeves to ultimately compromise the frame rigidity or promote crack areas. However I tend to err on the side of caution...
I am giving thought to having the “new” frame galvanized. But I am determined to have the waho plates on it front and rear. In doing some research it is recommended to have 3/32” space between overlapping parts to ensure the molten zinc can get in and drain out. Without the space, you could have rust seepage from the joint.
Has anybody had experience with galvanizing a frame with plates welded on? Should I weld them tight to the frame? I don’t like the idea of a plate spaced off the side of the frame. Just sounds hokey.
Full perimeter welds are a no no, the air pocket can expand and explode in the tank.
I bought this “np241c” transfer case on Monday. It arrived today, but the wrecking yard had it tagged as a 231. Anybody know how to confirm if it is a 241 and not a 231? Supposedly came from a ‘90 suburban. Did they make any 231 passenger drop with electronic speedo outputs?
I was very clear with the wrecking yard that I wanted a np241c passenger drop. Only issue, I need a 32 spline input, and this one has 27 spline. No big deal, plan to rebuild it and use the SYE kit from JB Conversions and the cable shifter from JB Custom Fab.