‘82 Engine Swap & Restification

ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
After searching the web and really scratching my head, I am fairly certain it is a 241. Might be why I got it for $200, if they thought it was the less desirable 231.

I went with the electronic version since I’m gonna run a speedhut gps speedo. I can use the electronic sensor for the computer if needed, but then again, I’m running a NV4500, so that might not be needed too.

Just gotta crack the case to see if it is a narrow or wide bearing and get the 32 spline input and get the SYE kit.
 
City
Vero Beach
State
FL
Found a few minutes to work on it between yard work, HOA meeting, and bed time routine. Pulled the sway bar, and ground off the passenger side sway bar frame bracket.

View attachment 70275
If you decide not to put that sway bar back on, I'd like to buy the complete thing from you minus the frame mounts and spring pads. Mine came with the sway bar removed.

Thank you for the details about the hydraulic clutch conversion. Very helpful.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
You might check with cb (certifiablejeep). He parts rusted jeeps out and went through a few recently. I’ll bet he has a couple to sell.
 

tower210

Scrambler Junkie
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Olathe
State
KS
If you decide not to put that sway bar back on, I'd like to buy the complete thing from you minus the frame mounts and spring pads. Mine came with the sway bar removed.

Thank you for the details about the hydraulic clutch conversion. Very helpful.
I’d sell you a sway bar...... pm me
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
I would suggest ordering the SYE right away as it took a couple weeks to receive mine. You also have the short front output. I put a 1310 non CV yoke in place of the factory GM flange.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
What u-joint setup should I get? I’m leaning towards a CV in the rear and rotating the axle to point at the Tcase.

Can’t see the front being as critical as I don’t drive that fast in 4wd. Most of my driving in 4wd has been in lo gear. Lo gear and 5th gear on my former t5 was always plenty fast on dirt. But, after this is finished I hope to take it more places than the deer lease. At the same time, I don’t plan to mess with the front axle rotation and therefore the corresponding need to change the knuckles to keep the caster close to stock.

So, do I go 1310 CV or 1350 CV? Is it wise to go 1350 with a 6.2L L92? Am I crazy to run the AMC20 with this setup, and really need to go to a D44 or D60? Don’t really want the D60 due to weight and size.

Where do I get a non-cv front yoke?
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
CJ-8.com Member
City
OKC
State
OK
https://www.cj-8.com/threads/the-story-of-peggys-jeep.48070/page-5

Post #84 has a 1310 non-cv front yoke part #. You also need a different front output seal as the diameter is different.

I ended up with a 24.5" 1310 CV rear with 8 degree Rubicon Express steel shims. However, you are going to be making much more power. JB also has flange options. With a 6.2 I don't think either a 20 or 44 are going to be long term options.
 
City
Vero Beach
State
FL
Just looking through the thread quickly I couldn't find what you finally did about your hydraulic clutch pedal. I bought a YJ pedal assembly but it is the later model like yours. Has anyone gone with a YJ master cylinder in addition to the pedals and simply plumbed that in? It wouldn't go in the stamped hole: looks about 1/4" lower, but i don't see why that wouldn't work. Anyone?

I've got the full extreme Fab clutch conversion, but I can buy a YJ master instead.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
Just looking through the thread quickly I couldn't find what you finally did about your hydraulic clutch pedal. I bought a YJ pedal assembly but it is the later model like yours. Has anyone gone with a YJ master cylinder in addition to the pedals and simply plumbed that in? It wouldn't go in the stamped hole: looks about 1/4" lower, but i don't see why that wouldn't work. Anyone?

I've got the full extreme Fab clutch conversion, but I can buy a YJ master instead.
I broke down and bought a CJ hydraulic pedal assembly. Mine was originally a 4 cylinder with a hydraulic clutch, so the holes were already cut. It had been converted in the 80's to a linkage clutch setup whenever the 232 was swapped in. If I did not have the holes in the firewall already cut I would probably go with the late yj pedals. It would give slightly more space for a power brake booster.
 
City
Vero Beach
State
FL
Good to know, thanks. I'm putting power brakes in too, so I figure I'll go with YJ booster stuff now do you reckon? From that link you posted and just looking at mine, it looks like the YJ pedal tree should bolt right in. Did you find that?

Great work on the frame find. Mine had the Poison Spyder sliders and it looks Mike the PO changed the frame mounts like you're doing. Wish I'd known about that....
 
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ag4ever

Average Nut
LIFETIME
CJ-8.com Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
I never tried to bolt in the yj pedals, but they should just bolt in (except the clutch master cylinder holes) since the CJ and yj used the same tub. They only changed the windshield and dash overlay.

I thought about raising the body mounts 1" since I will probably need a body lift for the NP4500. In the end I decided to leave them at stock height. Where they are being cut loose it is to fit the frame plates.

With the cost of the frame, the engine I'm planning to use, the work installing the plates, I wish I had just gone with a TDK frame. I would have then gone hybrid, driver side drop and TJ axles. Guess I'll have to save that for a future project. After all, I still need an '81, '84, and '85 to round out my collection. Would love the '84 to be a postal. '81 to be a TDK hybrid trail rig and '85 to be a stock barn find.

But, that is just a dream right now.
 
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