• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

‘82 Engine Swap & Restification

I'm running 295/70/17 tires (measure about 33.5 dia. - most equivalent to a 34" tire) on 17" method wheels (8.5" W x 4.75 BS).

Tires stick out about 3" on each side... I know that 1" spacers wouldn't keep them out of my springs (tried). I do have a shackle reversal; but that shouldn't have affected the steering/width.

Custom backspaced wheels would have been better; but also more $$

jeep 1 05 14 2019.jpg
jeep 3 05 14 2019.jpg
 
Nice, I am really weighing my options.

New would be great, fast, and easy.

Rebuilt would be great, slow, and built (not bought).

I think I want near stock width. I have a set of MT 15x10 rims I could use (if I don’t end up selling them, not sure they are my style) and they have stock rim backspacing (or offset). That puts all the extra tire to the outside, so I don’t need extra axle width to compensate for wider rims/tires.

So a NT Wagoneer axle narrowed 4” is almost stock CJ axle width. I might go look at the axles the shop by my office has. They specialize in dismantling Wagoneers and other old Jeeps, so I assume they will have a stack to choose from.

I have ruled out the Scout II axles. Just not what I want.

Probably go for a new D60 in the rear, unless I find the right D60 locally I can cut down.

But new front and rear is still appealing (even though I like the built, not bought mentality).
 
I'm guessing stock width and 35s is going to give up some turning radius....

I'm likely going Izuzu D44 rear; just re-drill the rotors and add a locker and be done with it....

'63-69 J-200, J-2000 65.5"
'63-69 J-300, J-3800 65.75"
'70- 72, Gladiator J-2000 frnt-63.5" rr-63.81"
'70- 72, Gladiator J-4000 frnt-63.8" rr-64.38"
'73 J-2500 frnt-63.5" rr-63.8"
'73 all other J trucks frnt-63.9" rr-64.4"
'74-75 J-10 frnt-62.9" rr-63.8"
'76-87 J-10 frnt-63.3" rr-63.8"
'74-75 J-20 frnt-62.9" rr-64.4" with disc brakes: frnt-63.0" rr-64.4"
'76-84 J-20 frnt-64.9" rr-65.9"
'63-72 Wagoneer 57"
'73 Wagoneer frnt-57.3" rr-57.5"
'74-75 Wagoneer frnt-59" rr-57.5"
'74-75 Cherokee (full size) frnt-58.8' rr-57.5"
'76-91 Wagoneer, '80+ Cher frnt-59.4" rr-57.8"
'76-79 Cherokee (full size) frnt-59.2" rr-57.8"
'76-78 Cherokee S frnt-59.5" rr-58.5"
'76-80 Cherokee Chief 2 dr. frnt-65.4" rr-62.3"
'81-83 Cherokee Chief 2 dr. frnt-65.3" rr-62.3"
'67-71 Jeepster C-101 50"
'72-73 Commando C-104 frnt-51.5" rr-50"
'72-83 CJ-5, frnt-51.5" rr-50" (so called-
'76-81 CJ-7, CJ-8 ('81 only) frnt-51.5" rr-50" narrow axle)
'82-86 CJ-7 frnt-55.8" rr-55" (so called- wide axle)
'82-85 Scrambler, CJ-8 frnt-55.8" rr-55" wide axle )
'84-87, 93 up Cherokee XJ 58"
'88 up Cherokee XJ 57"
'86-92 Comanche, 57"
'87 up Wrangler, YJ/TJ 58"
'93 up Grand Cherokee, ZJ/WJ 58"
 
tower210 said:
I'm running 295/70/17 tires (measure about 33.5 dia. - most equivalent to a 34" tire) on 17" method wheels (8.5" W x 4.75 BS).

Tires stick out about 3" on each side... I know that 1" spacers wouldn't keep them out of my springs (tried). I do have a shackle reversal; but that shouldn't have affected the steering/width.

Custom backspaced wheels would have been better; but also more $$

View attachment 72709
View attachment 72710
Click to expand...
Love where your front axle is in the front fender opening. Does the shackle reversal move it forward? I'm having my new axles made with the perch 1" aft, thus moving the axle forward to centre it in the front wheel well better. I've never liked how it sits in front opening.

Did you have any interference issues with the Pittman arm / drag link and the tie rod? Mine looks like I've got about an inch to play with. I'm thinking about moving the steering box forward about 2" to have some room to move the axle forward.

I really like your rig. Very pretty. Like the drive train, stance, modern flair. Just about everything.
 
Last edited:
I might have cheated a bit on the front axle placement; but not with the shackle reversal (that I know). The SR was on it when I got it; so I didn't have a before and after to compare.

When I got the custom springs; I wanted it centered a tiny bit more; Alcan put the spring perch pin either 1/2" or 1" forward (I forget). I did have to go to the MORE HD steering box (that moves the steering box forward too a bit); but this was almost a mandatory upgrade in my mine anyway. I already had the tie rod flipped to the top... It did make the factory sway bar mounts unusable. But I've found with the Alcan springs (your results might be different) that I really didn't need a sway bar on the streets.... I might at some point put an anti-rock style bar...

I appreciate the compliments. I love it too; the last swap to the 34's really hit the sweet spot in my opinion for getting the jeeps proportions they way I like it. My only regret is....the new wheels and tires weigh so much more than the 32s that it doesn't ride and drive quite as perfect as it did before. I actually think I can fix that; if I weighed everything again and got in touch with Alcan..... That'll be after new axles (if it happen); still rides/drives better than 90% of the CJs I've driven.
 
Looks like 1" to me, maybe a bit more? I like it a lot- perfect proIortions.

I've ordered a new PBR box from Morris (which has been back ordered for weeks with no word on when I'll get it) and a TDK heavy duty mount waiting to go on. I'm toying with mounting that forward an inch (i wish I'd known someone made a mount which did that for me) just for piece of mind. I've got the drop Pittman arm on there, so perhaps with less drop I could avoid hitting the tie rod with less effort, we'll see.

Mine came with 4" lift springs (i don't know the make, though they have "made in Canada " stickers on them.... any thoughts? ) but I would also have the spring pin moved forward if i ordered new springs. My new axles have the hole in the perch drilled at centre and then also 1" aft, so that will accomplish the same thing really.

Anyway, enough hijacking this thread.
 
Hey guys

quick question :the axel builders just called me. I have the throttle down customs steering Box heavy duty bracket. wondering if I need to get the more bracket to move the steering Box forward one inch. I hate to do it given I just put my new steering Box on and the new heavy duty bracket but is this necessary?
I have the high steer conversion on the new Dana 44 front axle and he reckons that with the high steer I may not have a problem. but I am moving the axle forward 1". what would you guys do?

The MORE box is only $105 but i just put the TDK mount on.....
 
I am not sure. I plan to run YJ spring, so that will move my spring mounts forward, I think this can affect the steering box mounting??

I have not settled on axles or steering setup yet. Might go hi steer, or just keep the stock setup. If I go 35’s I figure high steer might be needed. :shrug:

Just broke the 241 apart so I would know if it has the narrow or wide bearing on the input. Gotta switch from 27 spline to 32. Now I need to get the SYE kit ordered. That and get back to welding the frame up. Had some slag burn through my shirt sleeve when doing overhead position inside the spring mount boxes 2 weeks ago, and been a bit gun shy on repeating it. Have 4 nasty burns on my arm (almost healed up). Usually the cotton shirts keep the slag off, but not this time. Now I have some thick leather arm sleeves (which won’t be fun in 90 degree weather).
 
I've got high steer coming on my new Dana 44 front, so that may alleviate the problem with the drag link hitting the tie rod. I think I'll wait and see whether i need the MORE box. I wish I'd known about it before i got my TDK box as i would have liked to move my box forward anyway just because I'm moving my axle forward.

I've got the Dana 60 for the rear and I'm moving it aft 1", so my wheelbase will increase 2" in total. It'll be interesting to see whether that makes any noticeable difference to the ride.

That's a bugger about your arms. I burnt my armpit welding my new rear cross member on a few months ago and it took weeks to heal. Part of the fun being handy I guess.....
 
Sunday I went to weld the second frame plate on (rear), and I was out of C25. So, no welding till I swapped the bottle. Got the bottle swapped yesterday, took today off and was ready to start welding. Made a few tacks and my welder started to cut out like a thermal overload. It kept doing this after 2 tacks of 5-10 seconds each. Called the mfg, tech walked me thru a diagnostic, looks like my power switch failed and is not sending power to the secondary transformer that powers the control board.

Grrr, every time I get a moment to work on the Jeep something happens. Grrrrr.

I guess on a positive note, just got these parts in for a totally separate project.

69EFBABE-4AF3-4254-B97A-8D40CC372165.jpeg

BEA12C0E-0540-45A3-892C-D771125945EC.jpeg

B2288757-3373-44F4-A989-B579790D44C6.jpeg

‘94 TCM, ‘96 ECM, and ‘96 wire harness. Gonna mate them up to a ‘92 AW4 I got from a coworker for $150 and the ‘98 4.0 I got 6 years ago. But that is a different project.
 
I guess working on the Jeep would have been a bonus, it was not the reason for taking the day off, so not all was lost.
 
Spent an hour testing continuity on various circuits, only potential issue might be the contactor, but I think it is ok. Doing the tests I disconnected various circuits to isolate them. Found no “smoking gun” so I buttened it up.

Came out this morning planning to do the same with power to the machine, and it powered up. Ran some test tack welds, seems to be doing fine. Maybe there was a loose connection on the low voltage transformer or one of the others :shrug:

Either way, got the second plate all tacked in place.

0362A200-745F-4EEE-A209-E9DF4CD25BDB.jpeg

Now is the real test with a continuous bead.
 
Last edited:
Welder decided to cooperate this morning. Got a solid continuous bead around the rear plate. Once that was done, I was done. Getting way to hot!

02746C65-8770-4D8B-BE4A-402DE330918F.jpeg
 
Been a while since I update the build. Got the JB Conversions SYE kit. Got the 1310 CV yoke, but I might change that if I go with a drive shaft parking brake I think it requires a flange style drive shaft. I have a coworker that ran one, and he loved it.

A264B84E-26C2-450D-83CE-C29F1B5E51A5.jpeg

I also flipped the frame over and started on the right side frame plates. Got the rear one welded up and the fron one partially tacked in place. Have to trim a little more on the spring mount to clear the plate.

B3FC8D80-2E34-41B7-9007-D276B200EB6D.jpeg

3EDE341C-2D88-415D-B074-3235C9F24A53.jpeg

I will say the frame is getting heavier and harder to manhandle by myself. Once the rear frame crossmember is on it will be really heavy, and strong. :fingerscrossed:

Hopefully I will be starting the drivetrain mock-up soon. Need to decide on axles, really leaning towards the D44 front and D60 rear. Rear would be easy to order with loose spring perches and weld them on once I have the final weight on the suspension and final springs to get the proper pinion angle. Not sure what to do about the front as you would need the knuckles and spring perches loose, and one spring perch is the housing, right? Are the front angles not as critical?
 
Front angle is critical for tracking, not as much for pinion angle given you're mostly going to have your hubs unlocked at speed.

Remember with drive shaft brake they can be dicey with an open diff on slippery, icy or uneven surfaces as the two wheels can spin opposite one another and allow the car to roll while the drive shaft is locked solid. Why would you go that route rather than the far more reliable rear brake parking brake?
 
Chamba said:
Remember with drive shaft brake they can be dicey with an open diff on slippery, icy or uneven surfaces as the two wheels can spin opposite one another and allow the car to roll while the drive shaft is locked solid. Why would you go that route rather than the far more reliable rear brake parking brake?
Click to expand...

Houston gets ice on the roads about once every 5 years. If it is icy out, I would NOT be driving the scrambler. I think it would take a very unique situation for the vehicle to rotate around the pumpkin. To do that the front would need to go sideways, or one tire would need really poor traction to break free and allow it to spin opposite to the the ground travel direction. Can it happen, yes, is it likely, no. I also plan to run a limited slip of some fashion.

Only real benefit is easier parking brake cable routing and hookup. Prevents cable binding while the suspension flexes too.

For right now, I probably will run conventional parking brakes. Just one of those option I can choose latter.
 
I had my FJ40 roll down a ravine when we were camping. The grass was wet with dew and my cousin went over to get his backpack off the front bumper. The movement let the inner wheel spin and it rolled about 30' down before gaining enough traction to stop. Scared the hell out of me.

That was the last rig i had with a drive shaft brake. In 1981 model year Toyota moved it to the rear wheels after getting sued when one of their brakes slipped crushing a person. I never had any issues with axle brakes but I can see your point.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top