1984 SL Restoration

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I agree that shimming behind the bearing would be a better option, if you knew about the end-play issue ahead of time. With the outer shim method, I'm a little concerned that the bearing retainer could rub on that shim. It's unclear from the photos whether or not the bearing retainer clears the shim.

That retainer just floats in there, keeping the rollers aligned, and it spins at half the speed of the inner race (so not super fast, in a wheel bearing application). If it can still float freely with the shim installed, then you're probably okay, but if there's any pressure from the shim on the bearing retainer, you could have some metal scraping going on in there.

I know you know what you're doing though, so it's probably a non-issue. I love watching this thread! :headbang:

20210220_141122-jpg.91694

20210220_153913-jpg.91702

You might be right. That shim might be touching the inner roller retainer/cage. I can't remember if when the inner bearing is fully seated in the outer race, IF the inner bearing cage is flush to the outside like the outer race, or if it sits a hair inward.

When I mocked it up, without the external seal in the way, I could turn the axle shaft, bearing would spin, the shim was held stationary because it is pinned between outer race and the brake backing plate.

I will grab an extra bearing from NAPA and experiment with an extra shim and see if there is clearance, or if the inner cage will rub on the backside of the shim.

I don't think it does, or if it does, it is negligible? If it is rubbing, I guess the force against the shim could try to twist the shim, tearing it to pieces, and making it become metal shrapnel inside the bearing, and causing excessive free play in both axle bearings.

I will investigate some more and report back :thumbsup:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
This picture is the best one I have: bearing, shim, brake backing plate installed.

Hard to tell if shim is touching the inner bearing cage? It spun free by hand, but that really won't tell the whole tail?

20210220_154449.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
This is the rear axle bearing:


When you blow up the picture, IF the picture is correct for this bearing, it looks like the shim could be preventing the bearing from sitting flush to the outside of the race. But, I don't think this is right? I beat the passenger side axle with a 2 pound maul to seat the driver side axle bearing/race to the backing plate. The beating would have deformed the shim IF the shim was riding on the bearings inner cage, correct?

I'll buy a spare bearing and investigate. For $15.00, cheap insurance. Worst case, IF the shim is touching, I can take the driver side back a part, remove and replace this one bearing, and shim the new bearing outward off the axle shafts stop collar, then shim the bearings on the outside like the FSM details.

But, might not have to do anything :fingerscrossed:

Thanks for looking and pointing this out to me @CJ7Pilot :thumbsup::cheers:
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
So, bought a new rear axle shaft bearing, here are the pictures, clear as mud LOL!!!

Using my straight edge, and at these tolerances on the tail gate, not the most scientific, but here we go.

20210222_171920.jpg

20210222_171952.jpg

20210222_171959.jpg

Maybe, maybe, the bearing cage protrudes a hair past the outer race. At best, they are flush. At worst, maybe the bearing cage protrudes .001?

This is where it gets interesting. The shim I used ID is very close to this inner bearing cage OD. But, the bearing cage is not straight, it is chamfered down at the OD. So, does the shims ID even touch the bearing cage?

20210222_172029.jpg

20210222_172040.jpg

20210222_172245.jpg

Like I said, clear as mud LOL.

When I turn the bearing by hand with the shim over it, does it rub? Hard to say. If it does, it is very minute/minimal.

With the axle/bearing/seal installed in the axle housing, IF the shim is rubbing the inner bearing cage, I can't tell? Even if it is, is it enough to cause a problem? One thing working in my favor, the bearing is packed in grease, so there is lube between the shim/bearing cage.

One thing I did discover - I do NOT have any shims that will fit behind the axle shaft bearing/over the axle shaft to shim the bearing outward.

Not sure what my next move is. I am now about 85% confident the bearing/shim situation is OK.

I am going to think about it over the next few days then make a decision before I tear the rear end back down.

Out of curiosity, I am going to dig out the two used differential centering/thrust blocks and compare their over all length, just curious.

Feel free to discuss.

I wish the shim I used had a slightly larger ID LOL!!!!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Took a break from axle bearings, worked on drum brakes, again, and parking brake cables.

Since I am a glutton for punishment, pulled the drum brakes back apart and swapped in new wheel cylinder rods.

20210222_172715.jpg

The two on the left are new, the one on the right I found in my spares. The NAPA replacements seem like they will work out just fine.

Getting this parking brake cable grommet in place is fun!!!

20210222_195407.jpg

I still need to hook up/adjust all 3 cables to the equalizer thingy, which I just painted yesterday:

20210222_195425.jpg

On the driver side cable, I guess since it is not hooked up to the equalizer, the cable/spring portion inside the drum is not fitting/sitting right, and is interfering with the self adjuster:

20210222_195455.jpg

If I pull this cable out very slightly, like it would be if it was hooked up to the equalizer, it fits/clears everything fine.

Going to do some more simple chores over the next few days, that's it for now!!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Not the most exciting update, but everybody likes pictures, just doing some simple odds and ends.

The original Dana 30, Dana 300, and AMC 20 vent hoses, which are pretty nasty and deteriorating:

20210223_170615.jpg

Reusing the plastic one way vent valve things, a few hose clamps, some new hose:

20210223_181025.jpg

The hose I am using, nothing really special or expensive:

20210223_181113.jpg

The OEM metal hose clamps are still salvageable, but I am tired of cleaning and painting rusty stuff. Unfortunately, and I have never looked too hard, but you can't readily find off the local shelf replacements.

I am using these, they are OK:

20210223_181050.jpg

The biggest problem - the holes in the new ones will not go around a 5/16" bolt, like the front axle vent hose to radiator bolt connection:

20210223_181209.jpg

A few minutes with the Dremel, problem solved:

20210223_182046.jpg

The rubber that comes on these clamps is not worth a crap. It peels right off. The ID of the clamp could be a bit tighter for the OD of the hose I am using, but they work fine. With the plastic vent valve inserted in the end of the hose, they will not pull through the clamps. And, I guess it is better to be a hair loose versus too tight and crushing the line.

A regular hex bolt will not work with these clamps, a socket will not clear the hex head, even thin wall 1/4" drive stuff. No big deal, at the radiator, I substituted the hex bolt for an allen head bolt:

20210223_183323.jpg

The Dana 300 clamp uses a #10 screw to secure it to the fire wall, so no modifications to the clamp holes needed:

20210223_185528.jpg

Ran out of hose for the rear axle. The good news, this OEM tub still has the original rear axle vent hose clamp riveted in place up above the fuel filler stuff/passenger side tail light, so some more hose, done deal.

Kind of boring, but progress.

That's it for now!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
More simple stuff, some more boring pictures, and more problems!!!

Easy stuff, rear axle vent hose, the OEM clamp/bracket up behind the rear tail light:

20210224_202216.jpg

I need to drop the fuel tank and do some other work back here, just left the vent hose loose and long for now:

20210224_202256.jpg

More problems:

20210224_210821.jpg

I found one of those red neck shims on the ground after I disconnected the rear drive shaft, found the other one stuck to one of the u-joint bearing caps, no idea?

One bearing cap dry/wasted, easy enough fix:

20210224_210835.jpg

A stock rear drive shaft will work with the RE 4.5" lift, but it is almost extended all the way out:

20210224_212012.jpg

Lucky for me, in the drive shaft pile:

20210224_212404.jpg

A new rear driveshaft I had made for a T5 equipped Scrambler with the 4.5" lift. This was on my red Scrambler before I swapped in the AX15:

20210224_212353.jpg

It has Spicer u-joints in it, built stronger then stock, still in great shape. I will wipe it down and put a coat of paint on it, good to go. It is a bit longer then stock and has a larger slip shaft:

20210224_212339.jpg

While I was messing with driveshafts, noticed this about the front output shaft:

20210224_211054.jpg

Seal is leaking, and the front output shaft/yoke has too much end play. Easy enough to adjust out the play on the front output shaft once I drain the Dana 300, especially with the rear drive shaft out of the way. Rear output shaft feels great.

So a few more problem areas, need to quit looking at stuff, but nothing major.

Finally getting close enough to "finished" to make my first "to do list", will help me stay on task:

20210224_220148.jpg

That's it for now!!!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Got a jump start on the weekend, dropped the gas tank. 20 gallon tank, OEM skid plate, PIA with greaseable shackle bolts, more on this later:

20210226_180816.jpg

The tank had new rubber lines installed 10 years ago, just regular fuel line, low pressure hose clamps. Nothing the matter with that if you never upgrade to fuel injection. Plan on starting with a carb on this one, but you never know what the future might hold:

20210226_180823.jpg

20210226_180840.jpg


Not the best pictures, swapped in Gates Barricade high pressure fuel hose, 1/4" on return, 5/16" for supply:

20210226_181611.jpg

20210226_181414.jpg

I carefully rerouted and secured these soft lines on top of the gas tank, being extra careful not to kink the supply line. The supply line makes a pretty abrupt turn, and it can kink. I had this happen on my tan Scrambler, OEM 20 gallon tank, stock fuel line routing. The electric fuel pump could not overcome the kink!! Since then, I have been pretty anal dealing with OEM 20 gallon tanks with stock fuel line routings:

20210226_184440.jpg

20210226_184448.jpg

Pretty easy to drop a clean/empty tank. Going to get it mounted back in place, trim the rear shackle bolts, swap in the HD rear shackle hangers, then work my way forward and up.

That's it for now!!!
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
Dropped my tank a few days ago also. Didn't realize the 15 was set up a little different than the 20. This is my 3rd tank in 37 years in mine. Originally had 15 gallon metal, then went to a 22 gallon metal after market, but it just hung to low so about 15 years ago I went back to a 15 gallon plastic. Now I'm going to try and go with an intank pump with this tank.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Hey Spanks, the Hospital just called and they want their towel back! j/k
Saw an install on an old Ford 150 behind the seat fuel tank that used some of the PEX style pinch clamps like these...
Pretty slick looking
LOL, I never noticed that on the towel, but Tommy stole it first!!!!

I have never seen those fuel clamps before, I might have to take a look.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Easy stuff first. Got the gas tank reinstalled.

Loosened the passenger side shackle bolts to get a little bit of clearance.

20210227_082947.jpg

Used two long bolts on the back of the skid plate/gas tank while jacking it up to keep it lined up correctly, and temporarily suspended:

20210227_083002.jpg

While it was hanging by the long bolts/supported by the floor jack, hooked up the supply/return/vent hoses. Make sure you hook them up correctly!!!

20210227_084606.jpg

Finished, pretty easy:

20210227_091847.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
And then the four bolts that took 6 hours!!!

Started on the passenger side, frame on jack stands, rear axle supported by floor jack, bottle jack under leaf pack to fine tune suspension load to free the shackle, easy enough:

20210227_093516.jpg

Popped out the bushings before I broke out the torch to prevent burning rubber!!!

20210227_093526.jpg

Torch did not save the day, so all the tools come out!!!!

20210227_104457.jpg

One inner frame nut on this side was already broken free from the frame. Cut the head off the bolt, fished out the broken parts, installed a flange nut in the frame and a new bolt, done. The other bolt head snapped off, so I center punched the bolt, drilled it out, re-tapped the original inner frame nut, done.

For some reason, I ordered YJ rear shackle hangers, which is fine, but they use larger bushings then CJ's. I keep spare Rubicon Express bushings, so I had some new leaf spring bushings/inner bolt sleeves that fit the shackle hangers perfectly. Lucky!!!

20210227_112302.jpg

IIRC, CJ's equipped from the factory with 20 gallon tanks have the rear shackle bolts installed with the bolt heads to the inside, nuts on the outside. You can't do this with greaseable shackle bolts where the zerk is in the bolt head. With a thin OEM skid plate, I just space the bolts out with two washers under the heads to get a bit of clearance between the end of the bolts and the side of the skid plate:

20210227_132350.jpg

20210227_132425.jpg

In the above two pictures, I only put the washers on the center bolts to show the desired clearance. I space all the bolts outward. On my red Scrambler with a 20 gallon tank, thick GenRight skid plate, and the same shackles/bolts, I had to cut the bolts down some and use thinner top lock metal locking nuts to get clearance. Just something to watch out for.

This side finished:

20210227_133229.jpg

The driver side was more fun then the passenger side. Both bolt heads snapped off. I was able to drill out and re-tap one of the inner frame nuts. On the other broken bolt, a drill bit snapped off inside the broken bolt. So, I carefully ground down the welds on the bottom of the frame nut, knocked it loose/out of the frame with a punch and hammer.

Still need to reassemble the driver side, but the hard work is over with:

20210227_173251.jpg

If these four bolts would have simply unscrewed, I would have finished this simple job before lunch. I called it a day at 6pm, still not finished, but almost!!

These four bolts were rusted pretty bad, but the frame is in great shape, strong. I have been beating the hell out of it and drilling on it for hours, still solid.

My green Scrambler has no rust at all on it anywhere, but I had the same problem on the driver side rear shackle hanger bolts.

That's it for now!!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Finished up the shackle/shackle hanger install from hell, cleaned up my huge tool mess from yesterday, took it easy today and worked on simple stuff for a change.

Installed new gas tank fuel/fill hoses, and the rear wheel well plastic liner things:

20210228_104114.jpg

I use these plastic push rivet things to secure the plastic liner things, seem to fit/work fine:

20210228_104120.jpg

Fuel tank fill/vent hoses and rear axle vent line installed:

20210228_111411.jpg

20210228_111434.jpg

I left plenty of slack on the rear axle vent hose, need to fab up a bracket for the PS parking brake cable still:

20210228_111503.jpg


Passenger and driver side plastic wheel well liner things, the old undercoat is stuck on there pretty solid:

20210228_111857.jpg

20210228_112211.jpg

All pretty easy stuff, more parts off the floor/rear bed and on the Jeep!!!
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
I decided to go back with a Carter BBD on this Jeep dor now. I am NOT installing all the feed back/computer stuff, so I went in search of a non-stepper motor BBD.

I told JeepAddict to buy this off eBay awhile back:

20210228_113202.jpg

"New" BBD non-stepper carburetor, but big problem:

20210228_113208.jpg

Tell tale signs of a "clone", the gold choke plate and the color of the vent bowl plastic port thing:

20210228_113220.jpg

Now, it might be a fine carburetor, but I am not going to find out on this build. This carb will be shelved for now, might experiment with it later on.

I found an old stock rebuilt carburetor on eBay for a 1981 CJ7, purchased it. Rebuilt by whomever this is/was:

20210228_113252.jpg

Still sealed in plastic!!

20210228_113258.jpg

Sticker from the rebuilder, and original Carter casting numbers:

20210228_114137.jpg

20210228_114149.jpg

Non-stepper version:

20210228_114202.jpg

I have never seen this little sheet metal cover over the choke pull off mechanism?

20210228_114228.jpg

No plugs over the mixture adjusting screws:

20210228_114254.jpg

Going to bolt it on, fire it up, see if it will adjust out and run "as is" in the near future. Not going to pull it to pieces unless I have to.
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Tailgate full of miscellaneous stuff:

20210228_114944.jpg

Distributor base gasket and air cleaner to carburetor gasket:

20210228_114955.jpg

Radiator drain cock to replace stupid plastic one:

20210228_114959.jpg

Air cleaner to valve cleaner mounting hardware and old stuff to make choke wire harness:

20210228_115003.jpg

Coolant over flow hose that does NOT work well, reused the original stuff:

20210228_115016.jpg

There are a few random holes in the firewall, just one or two. I bought a bunch of various sized plastic plugs from Lowes, they are cheap enough to just buy a pack of every size and keep them on hand.

20210228_115021.jpg

The mystery bracket thing, we solved the mystery a few pages back LOL:

20210228_115025.jpg
 

spankrjs

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Biloxi
State
MS
Bolted the carburetor to the intake, installed the fuel filter, metal fuel lines, and associated rubber fuel lines. I use high pressure hose and clamps, over kill for a carburetor, but I keep this stuff on hand:

20210228_131046.jpg

Coolant over flow hose installed. For some reason, the OEM 3 core radiators have the over flow nipple on the radiator pointing toward the passenger side, but the overflow tank mounts to the driver side fender. Pretty easy fix.

20210228_132707.jpg

20210228_132719.jpg

A real drain valve, not the crappy plastic plug thing!!!!!

20210228_133728.jpg

Initial air cleaner install, need a longer stud on the valve cover bracket, easy fix, more on this later:

20210228_143226.jpg

Filled up the radiator and PS system with fluid, some other simple stuff, checking stuff off the list and adding more stuff to it:

20210228_143434.jpg

Pile of stuff in the bed is getting smaller, and different LOL:

20210228_144902.jpg

The speakers are out of my red Scrambler, this bed has become a junk storage yard!!!

Called it a day around 3, went for a drive in this one since the weather was nice!!

20210228_152354.jpg

Will piddle around some more this week, easy stuff on the above list, not really picture worthy, but I'll post up.

Field trip to Baton Rouge next weekend to dump left over crap off, pick up some needed parts, check out the inventory, and go see my poor abandoned 1985 Spring Special CJ-7!!!!!

That's it for now!!!!
 

Trevor Davidson

New member
Member
City
Kitchener
State
On
Good afternoon
Awesome write up, curious what drain cock you used to replace cheap plastic one ?
Any part number or size would be greatly appreciated.
 
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