82 UK Spec Laredo Scrambler Build No 2

[Dave The Sparky]

Hubs are back together, old stickers temporarily sat back in place until the first gust of wind hits them.
Thought i would look at the task of sorting out the RHD steering tie rods etc whilst also having a beer it is fathers day after all!.
Think i either need to buy or make new ones the rustiness of this lot worries me and i quite like my steering to work, well as good as CJ steering can work anyway.
The other CJs are on Heim joints but may try and keep this one a bit more standard.

Happy fathers day to all dads hope your children remembered!..

 

[certifiablejeep]

Happy Fathers Day! Looking good on the hubs.

cb

 

[Dave The Sparky]

Happy Fathers Day! Looking good on the hubs.

cb

Thanks hubs can be reinstalled next time i am at the workshop still on with that RHD steering linkage at the moment!.
The steering tie rods are causing me to do a lot of research as its all odd ball lengths and only Crown seem to make any of it for RHD vehicles which judging on past purchases i would be best off avoiding.
In France of all places i managed to find a genuine RHD Mopar tie rod end that accepts the tie rod from the Pitman arm, very strange as they drive on the left in France wonder if it fits other vehicles?.
This is the funky shaped one that is needed as there is only one hole in the left hand steering knuckle so hopefully thats on its way to me now.
This is the part for anyone who is interested, i guess any unmodified Postal and Overlander owners will have them as well.

 

[certifiablejeep]

I remember seeing that!

cb

 

[Dave The Sparky]

Steering abandoned for now, need parts!, moved on to mounting the fuel tank complete with the Holley in tank pump to run the Chevy, expensive but hopefully worth it.

 

[Dave The Sparky]

Also making a start on the brake lines,, this adjustable Willwood proportional valve bolts straight up to the factory holes in the chassis, probably not necessary as brakes will be standard but good for future proofing and the original proportional valve could be in any condition.

 

[Dave The Sparky]

I need all sort of parts that are either delayed on the way or i havent had chance to collect but i feel like its taking a bit of shape now.
Hopefully the polybush kit lands this week so i can get it sat on its axles again although i still need to get the AMC20 back together first but waiting on new bearings to appear for that as well!.

 

[walkerhoundvm]

Also making a start on the brake lines,, this adjustable Willwood proportional valve bolts straight up to the factory holes in the chassis, probably not necessary as brakes will be standard but good for future proofing and the original proportional valve could be in any condition.

View attachment 84823

I like that prop valve - are the fittings OEM or are you having to change fittings on your lines?

I've been trying to find a solution for my leaking prop valve for a while now. Can't trust any of the typical OEM-style valves but this wildwood has great reviews. It'd be nice to be able to adjust to take into account my larger rear drums, or at least try to dial in my brakes a little.

 

[Dave The Sparky]

I like that prop valve - are the fittings OEM or are you having to change fittings on your lines?

I've been trying to find a solution for my leaking prop valve for a while now. Can't trust any of the typical OEM-style valves but this wildwood has great reviews. It'd be nice to be able to adjust to take into account my larger rear drums, or at least try to dial in my brakes a little.

All my brake lines will be new so not an issue to me but i still have the OEM valve so i can hold it against the Wilwood one and compare it for sizes next time i am up at the workshop if it helps you out all fittings are standard 3/8 UNF i believe.
I have one of these on the blue 8 as i stuck a earlier 44 with the 11" drums on the rear and it works a treat.

 

[certifiablejeep]

Don't feel too bad on the missing parts... I ordered up 4 things from Quadratec yesterday and 2 are backordered and 2 will be here end of next week... they are normally pretty good, in stock and 1-3 days... it is just the times right now.

cb

 

[Dave The Sparky]

Don't feel too bad on the missing parts... I ordered up 4 things from Quadratec yesterday and 2 are backordered and 2 will be here end of next week... they are normally pretty good, in stock and 1-3 days... it is just the times right now.

cb

Yeah know what you mean, i am a patient man and quite happy to wait as the world has gone a little bit mad to say the least at the moment!.
One thing that does not help and this may only apply to the UK but no one seems to keep stocks of anything anymore.
It all seems to be held in a remote warehouse somewhere which isnt necessarily in this country either and that doesn't apply to just Jeep bits it can be anything.

At least my Mopar RHD steering linkage has arrived from France it appears to be the genuine article too so if any RHD Overlander/Postal owners need one there was one more on his shelf if only to save buying a Crown reproduction..

 

[Dave The Sparky]

I like that prop valve - are the fittings OEM or are you having to change fittings on your lines?

I've been trying to find a solution for my leaking prop valve for a while now. Can't trust any of the typical OEM-style valves but this wildwood has great reviews. It'd be nice to be able to adjust to take into account my larger rear drums, or at least try to dial in my brakes a little.

Sorry @walkerhoundvm its quite different to the OEM lines looks like most if not all of them would need a rework.
Apologies if thee photo makes the scaling look a bit odd didn't want to drip old brake fluid on my shiny chassis paint

 

[Dave The Sparky]

I did get some parts today the AMC20 pinion and carrier bearings have landed, suddenly plenty to do and no time to do it!

 

[Dave The Sparky]

Managed to get a bit of time to re-assemble the AMC20 Never done a crush sleeve before and thought it might be a complete pig to do as it turned out wasnt actually too bad.
I did have to use the impact gun on it though, there was no way the 1/2 bars and my weedy arms were shifting that thing.
Once it started to crush it wasn't too hard to get the preload correct, just took it steady and certainly far easier and quicker than using shims.
One piece axles are also now in with the shortened spacers so stuck the lid on (with hex head bolts!) and put a bit of oil in through what must be one of the worlds worse filling points to see if it leaks overnight.

 

[Dave The Sparky]

One side of the brake shoe puzzle done and the brake hard lines also done.
Was tempted to not follow the factory brake line route and make my life easier and just go direct from cylinder to the T piece but decided AMC knew best in this instance!.

 

[ag4ever]

I bet that extra bend is there to allow for brake cylinder replacement. It would be rather difficult without a little flex in the line.

 

[Randyzzz]

Also the bump stop contacts the top of the axle. Don’t want a brake line there!

 

[Dave The Sparky]

Also the bump stop contacts the top of the axle. Don’t want a brake line there!

Yes of course it does its obvious when pointed out! good job someone is on the ball round here

One other thing i had to do when building these was look up which shoe went where as there were massive differences between the size and thickness of brake material on each shoe, i am sure they are the same size on the Dana 44 with the 11" drums.
Workshop manual said the secondary shoe which is the one nearest the rear that the E-Brake lever goes in has the thicker,bigger lining f anyone wants to know!

 

[Dave The Sparky]

When i did the blue 8 build i got some comments about using copper as a brake pipe.
You can actually buy and use copper brake pipe in the UK but i much prefer to pay a bit more and use this which is a copper nickel alloy and as such is reasonably easily bent and formed but really strong and resists corrosion and more importantly salt!.
Stainless pipe just is not used here at all so this is why the pipe on my rear axle is a copper colour before the comments start!.

 

[93_Fummins]

... but i much prefer to pay a bit more and use this which is a copper nickel alloy and as such is reasonably easily bent and formed but really strong and resists corrosion and more importantly salt!...

I've used the copper nickle stuff before and it is an absolute joy to bend and route.