• Notice for iPhone users: DO NOT use the image size reduction option when uploading photos to the forum. This causes portrait images to post as landscape. We have added a warning to the image insert pop-up as well.

Dammit! Transfer Case is leaking like a sieve. Please help me as I remove it.

If its the output seal area that you sanded, its aluminum. Magnetic drain plug wont pick up that dust. Aluminum is softer than the steel bearing, so you should be fine if you got most of it when you wiped it.
I wouldnt worry about it.
 
If you really want to learn some new words, wait until you decide to take the roll bar out.:woohoo:
 
Bad Karma said:
If its the output seal area that you sanded, its aluminum. Magnetic drain plug wont pick up that dust. Aluminum is softer than the steel bearing, so you should be fine if you got most of it when you wiped it.
I wouldnt worry about it.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected.
 
John N said:
If you really want to learn some new words, wait until you decide to take the roll bar out.:woohoo:
Click to expand...

I did take the roll bar out today and there were rust holes in my rust free scrambler! I'll be posting pics. It's interesting, I started taking the paint off the bed and it really is rust free, except where the roll bars connected. I'll be wanting people's opinions on whether it is worth getting some welding work done.
 
redking11 said:
I did take the roll bar out today and there were rust holes in my rust free scrambler! I'll be posting pics. It's interesting, I started taking the paint off the bed and it really is rust free, except where the roll bars connected. I'll be wanting people's opinions on whether it is worth getting some welding work done.
Click to expand...

I think you might have to start a new thread or change this thread to your build thread....

http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php#7695
 
can_of_worms_ahead-1.jpg
 
Here are pics of the can of worms. The rust appears to only be under the rear roll bar mounts. But just seeing it freaked me out enough that I went ahead and striped the paint off the entire bed which is clean thank heavens. I also stripped the roll bar and started sanding it. I know some people are going to hate this, but I think I am going to put a liner in the bed. Nothing looks worse than a painted bed that has a ton of chips, not to mention, chips mean rust. So...... can anyone make a suggestion of what brand of bed liner they recommend and should I put on the P-15 or what ever that anti-rust stuff is? 20140219_095659_resized.jpg20140219_095709_resized.jpg20140219_095717_resized.jpg20140219_095723_resized.jpg
 
The frame on this Jeep looks great, the body looks great everywhere but the two spots above. It is normal for rust to be in just to spots or am I fooling myself and if it is under the roll bar mount it is other places too and I just haven't found it yet?
 
Those spots don't look all that bad. Should be pretty easy to cut and patch.
If you do decide to line the bed, I'd recommend having it done professionally. I had mine done by Rhino Liner about 20 years ago (it had just come on the market then), and it still looks great (can't say the same for any of the do it yourself products I've seen over half that time).
 
Spieg said:
Those spots don't look all that bad. Should be pretty easy to cut and patch.
If you do decide to line the bed, I'd recommend having it done professionally. I had mine done by Rhino Liner about 20 years ago (it had just come on the market then), and it still looks great (can't say the same for any of the do it yourself products I've seen over half that time).
Click to expand...

Should I put anti rust on it before it is lined?
 
redking11 said:
Should I put anti rust on it before it is lined?
Click to expand...

Yes, I would. There are some pretty good rust converters on the market now that I would use anywhere there is a hint of rust (get all the nooks and crannies where panels meet). Since you already removed a lot of paint, I'd probably scuff sand everything and then prep and spray a coat POR 15 over the whole bed before doing the bed liner.

I was also going to recommend you pull out the bulkhead and have a look while you're at it. Like the roll-bar, the bottom edge of the bulkhead is another area that can trap moisture and get a bit rusty... now would be the time to do it.
 
I'd look into Line-X if you've got one near you. Back when my fire department had the bed of our grass truck done we had Rhino Lining do it. The difference between Rhino and Line-x is: if you need it repaired, you have to take it to the original shop that sprayed it with Rhino. (the shop that sprayed our bed is gone now, if it needs fixed
we're SOL) With Line-x ANY Line-x dealer will fix it IF it's laid down over ORIGINAL PAINT. You may want to check with them before you put anything on the bed.
 
I don't know that it matters, but that sure doesn't look like original paint to me. If I was guessing, I'd say someone in the past found that rust, cleaned it up, and painted it.

Otherwise, I agree that it doesn't look all that bad. IMHO, you go two routes here 1. Complete disassemby and take the next 3 months to 3 years completely restoring EVERYTHING, or 2)clean it up, put the roll bar back on, put the transfer case back in and be driving this weekend.

You still have time to put the lid back on the can of worms.
 
rustycrawler said:
It's not just me, this thread has been read close to 1500 times at this point, there are a lot of folks tracking this one. I'm sorry if it's frustrating for you at this point, but it's baptism be fire and so far your holding up OK. I appreciate the fact that you had the balls to dive right in, maybe over your head just a little, but you haven't given up. Hang in there, I really can't wait to see what happens next....you are going to do fine.
Click to expand...

Yep. You da man, pulling the Tcase right right out of the gate!

Watching this seal replacement puts me back about a year ago when I decided to buy a $400 Honda Foreman that needed "a little work".

Ended up having to tear the whole engine down and replace the crank, and there were a few seals just like the one you had to pull. I did the whole scream, throw tools, cuss, tell my kids I better not ever see them screaming, throwing tools, or cussing like daddy just did, etc etc.

Got it back together (took back apart a couple more times and then put back together before it was right) and rode it around last weekend.

It's worth it, just not fun the first time you do it, cause you're learning.

I've got a 420 Rancher torn down right now, doing a complete engine rebuild. New crank and seals came via UPS yesterday. The 2nd time is MUCH easier.
 
John N said:
If you really want to learn some new words, wait until you decide to take the roll bar out.:woohoo:
Click to expand...

Something I haven't done yet, and I KNOW I have rust under both of my CJ-7 roll bars..... Maybe they'll just come right out.....:fingerscrossed:
 
wm69 said:
Something I haven't done yet, and I KNOW I have rust under both of my CJ-7 roll bars..... Maybe they'll just come right out.....:fingerscrossed:
Click to expand...

Heat the bolts up really good with a small propane torch, works great:twocents::thumbsup::wave:
 
Got the new seals in. Put the seal into the rear output of the Tcase, went in nice and smooth with a little RTV and the PVC pipe trick. Thank you for the advice, without this forum I wouldn't even have attempted this!
 
My "rust free" Scrambler had the same rust under the rollbar. In fact, mine all had holes. They will be cut out and patch panels welded in before paint. No paint or primer was applied under the rollbar feet from the factory!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top