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Giving it a Jolt

gr8dain

Old and Slow
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
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City
Ashburn
State
VA
wow. have not checked on this in a while. Looking great. Can't wait to see how it performs when done.
 

Chamba

Not obsessed: focused.
Member
City
Vero Beach
State
FL
Any further progress on a hydraulic clutch? I converted mine using a YJ pedal tree and Novak slave when I whacked the ax15 in my 8 (it's getting hard to find 4 cyl CJ7/8 pedal trees these days). I've been very happy with the results.
 

Kane

CJ-8 Member
City
Berlin
State
ct
Any further progress on a hydraulic clutch? I converted mine using a YJ pedal tree and Novak slave when I whacked the ax15 in my 8 (it's getting hard to find 4 cyl CJ7/8 pedal trees these days). I've been very happy with the results.
When I converted to my AX15 and hydraulic clutch I just drilled a hole into the mechanical clutch pedal lever and it worked great for 4 years until I pulled it.
 

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
Lifetime Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
The YJ pedal setup is a little more rigid as it has the "arm" that goes from the assembly to the firewall and through it... makes it a bit more tight with wiring if you run a clock, but overall gets rid of some of the flex... and allows for the hydraulic setup with the piece already on the pedal to receive it...

Those YJ pedal setups are out there, just not as plentiful as the CJ ones.

cb
 

RockTractor

Basic User
Silver Member
City
Albuquerque
State
NM
I used a the CJ pedal assembly. With a little effort, it can be made to work quite well.

Unmodified assembly showing natural position of push rod;
48F4D8AF-405A-4EE4-902D-3A8217BED476.jpeg

Small piece of steel cut to fill in the location where the pivot will be:
30459661-9F14-4238-9173-33F5DE57A23B.jpeg

Steel welded in and new hole drilled:
83672E03-819D-44C1-84BC-050CD5D44C8A.jpeg

New SS pin made from 1/2 bolt:
FF1B4BC3-5947-4CF5-977D-54911F0FDBEF.jpeg

Final assembly:
29FB7165-0CA0-4AB9-BFDF-7D357C776B2A.jpeg
 

Chamba

Not obsessed: focused.
Member
City
Vero Beach
State
FL
Here's the little brace cb is talking about on my conversion
 

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RockTractor

Basic User
Silver Member
City
Albuquerque
State
NM
Here's the little brace cb is talking about on my conversion
Nice. I never knew that existed (and even had a YJ pedal assembly in my old CJ-7).
I don't think that would be too hard to fab up and add to a CJ assembly if needed.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
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City
Richmond
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TX
The YJ pedal setup is a little more rigid as it has the "arm" that goes from the assembly to the firewall and through it... makes it a bit more tight with wiring if you run a clock, but overall gets rid of some of the flex... and allows for the hydraulic setup with the piece already on the pedal to receive it...

Those YJ pedal setups are out there, just not as plentiful as the CJ ones.

cb

As I understand it, early YJs used the CJ style brace, latter YJs used a brace with wider spacing on the master cylinder.

YJ vs CJ Pedals

0CEB726F-9416-4963-8EAD-EA3401ACB6EA.jpeg
 

certifiablejeep

Definitley Certifiable
Lifetime Member
City
Bedford
State
NH
Nice. I never knew that existed (and even had a YJ pedal assembly in my old CJ-7).
I don't think that would be too hard to fab up and add to a CJ assembly if needed.
OK, I was talking about inside the tub/firewall, not the engine side... but yes, there is a bracket on the other side of the firewall as well.
I was referring to the arm that goes from the pedals through the firewall... it is shown here.
It is connected to the left of the pedal assembly and goes over and up through the firewall... like an arm/brace.

100_1420.jpg


cb
 

FLCJ8

Legacy Registered User
City
Palm Bay
State
FL
Sorry, been awhile. I have made some progress on wiring, pedal placement, and others but big stuff happens soon. Batteries arrive Monday. Will post pics later.
Glad to see you back.
Looking forward to getting back on topic...
not sure how this sidetracked.
 

timo439

Scrambler Junkie
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
City
Portsmouth
State
NH
Any further progress on a hydraulic clutch? I converted mine using a YJ pedal tree and Novak slave when I whacked the ax15 in my 8 (it's getting hard to find 4 cyl CJ7/8 pedal trees these days). I've been very happy with the results.
I kept the original set-up, just had to adjust the length of the arm(?). It will have very little use so should be fine and if it breaks, I dont need it at a dead stop.
 

bigwalton

Alaskan Postal nutjob
FORUM MANAGER
SOA Member
City
Dexter
State
MI
Do you have a way to test the motor mount before you go much further? I had the same concern about dealing with the torque and would hate to see it come up way down the line.
 

timo439

Scrambler Junkie
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
City
Portsmouth
State
NH
Do you have a way to test the motor mount before you go much further? I had the same concern about dealing with the torque and would hate to see it come up way down the line.
Same concerns. I had some discussions with a few folks who assured me it’s all good, but as soon as I have powered, I plan to go through some basic tests with the wheels chocked and the e brake on to see if I get any movement. One thing I don’t knows is how much I should torque the band closed. For now, it’s on the one grunt scale with my breaker bar.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
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Richmond
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TX
This makes no sense to me...
Someone please tell me this is shown installed upside-down and on the wrong side of the firewall....

I was only holding it there to show the bolt hole discrepancy. It mounts on the other side of the firewall. The pedal pivots run through the large round hole, the 2 holes mount to the master cylinder and brace it from the pedal assembly.
 

RockTractor

Basic User
Silver Member
City
Albuquerque
State
NM
I was only holding it there to show the bolt hole discrepancy. It mounts on the other side of the firewall. The pedal pivots run through the large round hole, the 2 holes mount to the master cylinder and brace it from the pedal assembly.

Whew!
 

timo439

Scrambler Junkie
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Gold Member
Lifetime Member
City
Portsmouth
State
NH
It’s been awhile since I’ve posted. Been sidetracked by summer. Below are a few pictures of progress. For those of you worried, I have created additional bracing from the bell housing to the chassis to manage the rotational torque.
First a dry fit of the rear battery box bracket. I will be supplement the cross member as the fully loaded battery box will be twice the weight of a full 20 gallon tank.
B764FDBA-E279-498C-B3B3-E12D48FECBDC.jpeg
F2E5A950-BA89-4672-8E21-912CC15AE434.jpeg
Now the front ladder brace before welding (still perfecting my welding skills but I have a 4 hour class Sunday so should be a pro by then 😉).
6C27F9FE-443C-493F-9B0E-8FD400537DA4.jpeg
Finally, the dry fit of the front battery box. Tighter fit than I planned but I have wiggle room. Glad I could use the motor mount locations.
CBBFB67E-02BB-40F9-BB0E-2E674F722EFB.jpeg701BDA2C-1BE3-4976-827A-DCAD1A10F276.jpeg
 

Chamba

Not obsessed: focused.
Member
City
Vero Beach
State
FL
How are you cooling the batteries?

Do you still have the 20 gallon tank? I'd be interested in the complete setup (I'd be replacing a 15 gallon tank) if you'd be willing to do it to Florida.
 
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