Gr8Dain's 4.0/aw4 swap from a 97 XJ
- Thread starter gr8dain
- Start date
I want to say 5/16, but I’m not positive.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
What do you do between meetings? Clean and paint the things.
Here is what the intake looks like now. This motor will look so good the day it gets i stalled. Then of course it will get years of oil leaks all over it and will look like every other Jeep. But you need to start clean, right?
Here is what the intake looks like now. This motor will look so good the day it gets i stalled. Then of course it will get years of oil leaks all over it and will look like every other Jeep. But you need to start clean, right?
Attachments
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Got the transfer case taken apart (as much as I needed to -or a little more than I needed to) and installed the little blue gear on the output shaft so that my speedo gear turns to tell the vss my speed (as well as my speedo). $20 in parts from Advance Adapters, including a new o-ring for the speedo gear housing. Baby steps
Attachments
PetesCj-8
CJ-8 Member
- City
- slatington
- State
- pa
I need to start doing this. If I took my parts to work my projects would get done alot faster. ?
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Every once and a while, working an office job has advantages. Like when working from home.
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Question. I am now wondering if I put the wrong dust shield on between the bellhousing and the transmission. The one I put on worked and the holes lined up. But I found another one in the parts pile this morning and I cannot recall which came drom the 4.0 and which came from the 4.2. And I am really thinking I put the one from the 4.2 on last weekend. Would it matter? I assume the hole for the starter should be in the same place.
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Second question, I believe that the computer needs a pre-cat O2 sensor, correct? Can I have a bung welded into the exhaust manifold? Or does it need to be in the pipe after the manifold? My Sniper had it in the exhaust manifold, so I would think that would work, right?
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
The only thing I can offer here is that the Mean Green 4.2 starter I had bolted up to the 4.0 (but it didn't work to start the Jeep, which I assumed was something to do with the starter's gear/solenoid not matching up). So I think you're fine, but bolting the starter on is the way to know.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Yes, that sensor is the entirety of the A/F ratio feed to the ECU, to my understanding. The other O2 sensor after the cat is purely for emissions to check the performance of the cat.
The idea with the O2 sensor is to get all of the exhaust included so that the system isn't acting on just one cylinder, but the average of all six. So as long as you're after the collectors, you should be ok. Looking at the location of that sensor in the stock application should help with location. Just remember to put the sensor in so that the tip is pointing down as much as possible (so the tip doesn't collect condensation).
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Thanks. I remember from the sniper i stall that it needed to point as straight down as possible, so on the exhaust manifold that may be more difficult than the headers I used to run. But I will mock it up and see. I am not sure I want to run the post cat O2 sensor , u less I HAVE to.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
It's a CEL non-stop if you don't.
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
If you use the 4.0 flywheel, use the 4.0 starter. If you use the 4.2 flywheel, use the 4.2 starter.
My red Scrambler has a 4.0, but with 4.2 flywheel/clutch/starter/bellhousing.
I also used all 4.2 accessories/brackets on the front end.
It all works fine, but kind of crazy. Especially since I have a 4.0 transmission, the AX15 ?
My red Scrambler has a 4.0, but with 4.2 flywheel/clutch/starter/bellhousing.
I also used all 4.2 accessories/brackets on the front end.
It all works fine, but kind of crazy. Especially since I have a 4.0 transmission, the AX15 ?
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Thanks. I do have a starter for the 4.0, so that should work.
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Since my wife is out of town from tonight through Monday, her spot in the garage is empty! So that means I can do stuff after work and not have to put everything back like tetris and therefore do little bits at a time while working the rest of this week and weekend.
So tonight I went out to mess with attaching the transfer case to the transmission, but decided to mate the XJ shifter to a riser from a B&M shifter I got a while ago. I like the height and it is comfy without having to lean to shift. Good news. Bad news is that if I want to use the plastic housing to hide it, I will need to move my CB speaker, and maybe the extra fuel and temp gauges. Not a big deal, I can decide later.
So tonight I went out to mess with attaching the transfer case to the transmission, but decided to mate the XJ shifter to a riser from a B&M shifter I got a while ago. I like the height and it is comfy without having to lean to shift. Good news. Bad news is that if I want to use the plastic housing to hide it, I will need to move my CB speaker, and maybe the extra fuel and temp gauges. Not a big deal, I can decide later.
Attachments
- City
- Ashburn
- State
- VA
Took a quick break from work to see about attaching the transfer case to the transmission. Something is not letting them mate. The outer diameter of the output shaft is about 2 and 1/8”. The inner diameter of the seal on the transmission is about the same. They should slight right together. I cannot tell if the seal is what is keeping it from going all of the way in or not, but it appears to leave a gap of about 3/8”.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Attachments
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
I forget, were these together previously? Can you measure the shaft length and the female spline on the Tcase? Did you lubricate the seal?
- City
- Redmond
- State
- OR
First thing to do is measure the distance from the spacer outer flange to the end of the t/c input snout. Then run a straight edge across the trans, and using a thin rod measure the depth alongside the splined output into the trans. If there’s adequate clearance there perform a similar check except for the t/c bearing retainer vs trans end housing. Something will be off. I’m assuming you checked the depth of the t/c input compared to the length of the trans output already? You have to go by spline depth on the input as I don’t think they are cut all the way to the bottom.