Gr8Dain's 4.0/aw4 swap from a 97 XJ

[gr8dain]

That was the problem. Installed the new one and voila! Starts right up. And only in Park and Neutral. So I am safe too.

@Randyzzz , here is a pic of the new part on the website. And here is the one I took off. No taking it apart to fix.

 

[Randyzzz]

That was the problem. Installed the new one and voila! Starts right up. And only in Park and Neutral. So I am safe too.

@Randyzzz , here is a pic of the new part on the website. And here is the one I took off. No taking it apart to fix.

I just saw the pics on your FB post too. I’ve never dealt with the NSS on an AW4- I have rebuilt many AMC/GM column mounted switches. Hence my astonishment at the high price. So glad you got it all figured out!

 

[bigwalton]

I’ve never seen a NSS that was that much. Can I you post a pic up just to satisfy my curiosity?

They're crazy expensive and just about the only real weakness of the AW4. People have had luck opening them and cleaning the contacts, assuming it's otherwise mechanically ok. The contacts will get dirty and become problematic.

If mine ever went, I was thinking it would be a good thing to use as a theft deterrent. Wire it up as a bypass with a hidden switch you could kill. Only issue is that I believe it's the feed (ground IIRC) for the reverse lights too, so if that goes, then you have issues.

If anyone remembers, a bad NSS on the 999 was the reason the PO parked my Postal before I bought it. I grounded the solenoid and ran it that way for years. Funny enough, I never once tried to start it not in P or N

 

[gr8dain]

Well it looks like the brake switch that was included in the harness from hotwire has an output to control the lights, so I guess I do not meed the original switch hooked up as well. I tested power when the plunger was out and the power feed out through the wire was 12v so that is a plus

 

[gr8dain]

This weekend I plan to find my wiring issues. Hopefully grounds. I went out at night tonight to validate that I do actually have reverse lights, but no other tail lights. And driver side front marker lights but no passenger. And driver side headlight only works on hi beam and the passenger side not at all.

Such a challenge.

 

[gr8dain]

Gave up on the wiring. It is not my thing. I need “pro” help. So I went and took it for a drive and adjusted the TV cable to see if the shift points improved.

At the gas station I discovered that my sending unit was not tightened down all of the way. Oops. Food thing I have the access panel!

But I will say that I am happy with the way it drives. I will have to get used to the auto though. I keep wanting to press a clutch pedal.

 

[bigwalton]

 

[Belizeit]

Glad you got it rolling. That trap door is pretty handy

 

[gr8dain]

Glad you got it rolling. That trap door is pretty handy

Yes it is. Very glad I put that in.

 

[NHScrambler]

Ugh. Never mind. My mistake. I had the supply and return lines on the wrong ports. Switched them and now my fuel makes it and is at a good pressure. Now on to test spark

Just a quick question for you. I am putting a 4.0L in my Scrambler and was going to go with the same fuel pump/filter set up. My question is where did you plumb the extra line off the filter? Does it run back to the tank or to an evap canister?

 

[gr8dain]

Just a quick question for you. I am putting a 4.0L in my Scrambler and was going to go with the same fuel pump/filter set up. My question is where did you plumb the extra line off the filter? Does it run back to the tank or to an evap canister?

It runs back to the tank as a return.

 

[gr8dain]

Big day for me. I made a lot of progress on the lights. I got the radio working again yesterday, which was super important.

But today I played hooky from work and played with the scrambler. I cleaned up a ground for the passenger headlight, swapped in a new hi-beam pedal, ran a new power feed to the brake pedal switch, swapped in a few new bulbs and found out that my turn signal flasher was destroyed by water. Switched it with the hazard flasher and now I have side and rear turn signals, but not the front. But tail lights and brake lights work, along with low and high beam and the front markers. Although the passenger marker is a little dim. So it may be a ground. And maybe that is causing them to not flash as turn signals. Anyway, I am very happy. Especially since I hate wiring.

 

[gr8dain]

Sprayed primer on the Barnes 4WD crossmember. Will add paint when I can, then start to see about mounting.

 

[NHScrambler]

Sprayed primer on the Barnes 4WD crossmember. Will add paint when I can, then start to see about mounting.

What amount of drop did you go with? I have been thinking of going with a Barnes crossmember as well.

 

[gr8dain]

What amount of drop did you go with? I have been thinking of going with a Barnes crossmember as well.

I went with the 2” drop hope I chose wisely

 

[gr8dain]

So, I got my passenger side front turn signal to blink. It was a weak ground. Solved it by removing some grill paint for the light housing to make good contact. Yay.

But the same cannot be said for the Driver Side. I did the same, but no luck. Ran a test ground wire from the battery to the housing and still no luck. So I don't think it is a ground.

I found the color wiring schematic in the tech section, but cannot read it and it gets blurry when I zoom in. Can anyone tell me if I am right when I think that one of the wires is for the low and the other is Hi since it grounds to the grill? And I get 12 v to the one wire which stays on constant when I have the lights on/ But the other wire is not giving any voltage when the turn signal is on and the fender turn light is blinking.

I get 12 V on the Green w/ white wire for the left turn signal coming out of the bulkhead. But before I disect the harness, I was hoping that someone could tell me how the power splits to the fender light vs the grill marker light.

Or does someone have a better wiring diagram that I can zoom in on and not lose clarity?

 

[FLCJ8]

So, I got my passenger side front turn signal to blink. It was a weak ground. Solved it by removing some grill paint for the light housing to make good contact. Yay.

But the same cannot be said for the Driver Side. I did the same, but no luck. Ran a test ground wire from the battery to the housing and still no luck. So I don't think it is a ground.

I found the color wiring schematic in the tech section, but cannot read it and it gets blurry when I zoom in. Can anyone tell me if I am right when I think that one of the wires is for the low and the other is Hi since it grounds to the grill? And I get 12 v to the one wire which stays on constant when I have the lights on/ But the other wire is not giving any voltage when the turn signal is on and the fender turn light is blinking.

I get 12 V on the Green w/ white wire for the left turn signal coming out of the bulkhead. But before I disect the harness, I was hoping that someone could tell me how the power splits to the fender light vs the grill marker light.

Or does someone have a better wiring diagram that I can zoom in on and not lose clarity?

Here's the diagram from the FSM:



Here's an explanation I saved from another site:

On next post

 

[FLCJ8]

Explanation:



Diagrams of flash functions, next post.

 

[FLCJ8]

Diagrams of wiring and functional operation:
May be a little confusing with some of the markings.



The Parking Light circuitry comes from the headlight switch
The Turn Signal circuitry comes from the turn signal
The two filament lamp is the grill light
The single filament lamp is the fender light
The turn indicator is in the speedometer

 

[FLCJ8]

Note the lamps illuminated.