Hayduke's Operation: Scrambled Scrambler
- Thread starter Hayduke
- Start date
- City
- Cobourg, Ontario, Cana
- State
- da
yup, its great in the summer, keeps the boys cool when wearing shorts!
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
And after a rain or wash, if the windshield/cowl leaks, it will wash "the boys", too
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
Thanks for the info Guys! The weather was so nice today (70 degrees in WI) I hit the boneyards with some friends and came home with a NV241C from a 1989 Suburban 2500. So I guess I've started purchasing the driveline backwards...
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
I did some more work on the frame last night. I drilled drain holes inboard of both main eye spring hangers, and then holes back where the rear of the frame rusts out. I found that right at the bend the frame was very hard to drill through (seemed thicker) and it was much easier a few inched back from this.
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
I picked up a set of 1986 CJ Dana 44/20 axles at the Boneyard to replace my old axles. These axles are in much better shape. I sold the old set of very rusty axles already as well.
I decided to go disc brakes on the Dana 44 when I install it. I'm thinking of going with the Rough Stuff weld-on brackets? Anyone here tried those yet?
I decided to go disc brakes on the Dana 44 when I install it. I'm thinking of going with the Rough Stuff weld-on brackets? Anyone here tried those yet?
mhinchliffe
CJ-8 Member
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
I got mine from Speedway Motors. All of $10/ea. I used Chevy S 10 front calipers. Easy as pie
mhinchliffe
CJ-8 Member
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
I've got the AMC20 with Moser 1 piece axles. I want to say that I was able to use the same rotors as the front. They are 7/8" thick. The older CJ's are 1 1/8" thick. I'll look back at my thread and see if I can jog my memory. Great score on the 44, any idea of the ratio?
mhinchliffe
CJ-8 Member
- City
- W-S
- State
- NC
Page 8 of my build. GM metric calipers and brackets
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
The axles are 3.31 x 1 gears.
I've finished the frame work for now, Welded 4 patches and fixed one threaded insert. Going to coat the frame in Por15 outside and Eastwood inside frame coating inside. Used Metal Prep (Phosphoric Acid, Zinc Phosphate) on the outside & rinsed in prep for Por15 already. Here's what it looks like:
I've finished the frame work for now, Welded 4 patches and fixed one threaded insert. Going to coat the frame in Por15 outside and Eastwood inside frame coating inside. Used Metal Prep (Phosphoric Acid, Zinc Phosphate) on the outside & rinsed in prep for Por15 already. Here's what it looks like:
- City
- Bedford
- State
- NH
It will all be worth it... looks good.
cb
cb
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
Hello, I'm back at work on the scrambler, I took some pictures of the new side panel and old.
First I cut and peeled off the old panel as I decided it wasn't good enough. Air chisel helped. This is partially the YJ front panel anyway.
Here's what I found:
I cleaned it up. Here are both panels:
And cleaned tub:
First I cut and peeled off the old panel as I decided it wasn't good enough. Air chisel helped. This is partially the YJ front panel anyway.
Here's what I found:
I cleaned it up. Here are both panels:
And cleaned tub:
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
So the panel didn't line up perfect, it was a tiny bit short at the end, I also wasn't thrilled with the new panels Wheel arch, So I made a backing plate and welded the factory one back on.
Before burning in the new panel, I drilled holes to "spot weld" it on, Then I POR-15'd the open box and areas that would get covered. This is clear POR-15.
I then slowly trimmed the new panel back to meet the wheel arch piece. I then added a thin backing plate.
I also cut the flange off the section between the box and rear. This was done because that section is double layer = twice as thick so the panels would not end up flush. I put a metal level on the panel to align them as I welded this section.
I tacked the rear, then the front.
Now I have a LOT of tack welding to do! I plan to burn in / tack the top edge, then do the underside and mid panel behind "Jeep". I think I'll end up making this side of the tub stronger in addition to smoother!
Before burning in the new panel, I drilled holes to "spot weld" it on, Then I POR-15'd the open box and areas that would get covered. This is clear POR-15.
I then slowly trimmed the new panel back to meet the wheel arch piece. I then added a thin backing plate.
I also cut the flange off the section between the box and rear. This was done because that section is double layer = twice as thick so the panels would not end up flush. I put a metal level on the panel to align them as I welded this section.
I tacked the rear, then the front.
Now I have a LOT of tack welding to do! I plan to burn in / tack the top edge, then do the underside and mid panel behind "Jeep". I think I'll end up making this side of the tub stronger in addition to smoother!
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
I hope in the end I feel like this was worth it! What do you think? 
Putting this panel in is not a quick process and I'm only part way done. I do realize I'm attaching it to a already modified body, which is why it ended up a hair short.
It's the body filler step I don't feel great at, have not decided what to do there...
Putting this panel in is not a quick process and I'm only part way done. I do realize I'm attaching it to a already modified body, which is why it ended up a hair short.
It's the body filler step I don't feel great at, have not decided what to do there...
Last edited:
- City
- Withrop Harbor
- State
- IL
Warm crotch air !!!I'm thinking of starting over with a Vintage Air system or the like.