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Meet Rusty, 82 5.0 Build

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
I am so embarrassed, I forgot I taped that up when I removed the tub.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
OK, I have the 5.0 engine and correct bell housing and pilot bushing to install the t176. The only two things left are the hydraulic pedal setup and cutting 5/8 of an inch off the tip of the t176 tranny. But I really don't want to do that. I was looking around for a T18 or T19 but then I would have to pay for the conversion to the transfer case. I saw this add locally and think it might work-

For a Scout II a complete conversion from automatic to manual w/ the best rock crawler tranny ( T19 tranny is fully synchronized granny gear (1st ) ......and a 30% over drive in high gear also includes all pedals linkage driveshafts and a dana 20 transfer case

So in theory I could use the T19 and it already has the matting to my transfer case without the conversion? Then I could sell my rebuilt t176.
 

barrys

Scrambler Junkie
Lifetime Member
City
East Norriton
State
PA
I never heard/knew that a T19 (or any 4 speed) had an option for 4th being an overdrive.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
I never heard/knew that a T19 (or any 4 speed) had an option for 4th being an overdrive.
My first 67 Mustang had a transplant toploader 3 speed overdrive (4th was overdrive). I asked him if the T19 was rebuilt that way since he told me it was a fresh rebuild.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Rusty, no more... New floors welded in and entire inside of the tub media blasted. Made a barrier in the garage that worked great. Already started sanding the exterior. Going to Por15 the inside tub once we get nicer weather.
 

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don87401

Original Owner
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Farmington
State
NM
You can do a lot in plastic shacks!
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Ok I have the 94 Mustang 5.0 Cobra engine installed to the rebuilt M5R2 to the Dana300. It's gonna have a short rear driveshaf I still need to purchase the block hugger headers because I don't believe the stock exhaust will clear the frame rails. I have the transmission resting on the original skid plate and will have to modify it to drop the angle a few inches. Plan on test fitting the body today to see where the shifters locate in the tunnel and to see if I will need a one inch body lift. I am so glad I purchased that garage heater.
 

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cbford

Legacy Registered User
City
CLT
State
NC
Pace Setter F150 shorty headers for 90s trucks will work. Probably any brand for those pickups... I ordered "Summit Racing" and they came with a Pace Setter model plate tacked on.
I am guessing you will need to use a hydraulic clutch for the M5R? You may be able to make the stockers work if you get creative with bends.

I bet that transfer case handle will be about mid-thigh position for your passenger. That may take some special bending sprinkled with curse words.
Good progress.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Pace Setter F150 shorty headers for 90s trucks will work. Probably any brand for those pickups... I ordered "Summit Racing" and they came with a Pace Setter model plate tacked on.
I am guessing you will need to use a hydraulic clutch for the M5R? You may be able to make the stockers work if you get creative with bends.

I bet that transfer case handle will be about mid-thigh position for your passenger. That may take some special bending sprinkled with curse words.
Good progress.
Thanks. I got the Summit Block Huggers and they look like they may fit but are really close to the mini starter. Yes I heated and bent the twin sticks pretty far but still had to cut the floor. I could have modified the sticks to fit but got really lazy.
 

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STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Scratch all of that- The hugger headers (SUM -G9063) dont fit the passenger side with the MORE mount. Going to try another set.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Been making some strides with the build. I was able to bolt the body back to the frame and surprisingly the body mounts that I had to initially rebuild lined up. I am currently doing the body work. The inline air sander makes the flat panel work quick but I find myself getting smoother panels with just a long sanding block. After paint, I will document the Cobra 5.0 swap. Since I have to go with all the emissions stuff here, I went with the BBK shorty headers that have the tube from the header to the EGR valve.
I have done some research and wanted to know everyone's thoughts on heater/AC options. I looked at VintageAir and JeepAir and for those that have used those systems, do the heaters work? My two options are to rebuild the current heater with the Blazer blower motor upgrade and add an under dash system or just buy the new heater/ac unit from Vintage/Jeep air and be done with it. I am amazed there are no complete heater rebuild kits available for CJ's and have watched a few utube videos on what needs to be purchased. Another consideration is if I go with the aftermarket systems for air/heat, I will need to figure out what to do with the heater cable holes in the dash.
 

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Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
What’s your priority? A stock system with the Blazer motor upgrade is tough to beat. But under dash air isn’t super efficient. Vintage air takes a lot of mods, I’m doing one now. I have been told that the Vintage air units work well though. You can check my build thread to see how I dealt with the stock control holes.
 

sdsupilot

CJ-8 Member
Member
City
OKC
State
OK
Nice work on the passenger side rear quarter! I agree with Randy that the Blazer motor in the stock heater box works great. I did that with mine years ago.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
What’s your priority? A stock system with the Blazer motor upgrade is tough to beat. But under dash air isn’t super efficient. Vintage air takes a lot of mods, I’m doing one now. I have been told that the Vintage air units work well though. You can check my build thread to see how I dealt with the stock control holes.

Nice work on the passenger side rear quarter! I agree with Randy that the Blazer motor in the stock heater box works great. I did that with mine years ago.
Thanks for the feedback, I replaced that corner and A LOT of hammering to get the crease out of the metal. Just to note, if you ever have to replace the rounded corner be sure to save the tab that locks your the tailgate from your original corner to re-weld to the new corner.

I will rebuild the original heater setup with the blazer blower since heat is more of a priority.
 

STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Still priming and sanding but I forgot when I purchased it the previous owner had provided a new dash because my original had a few rust holes. It was edp coated and started sanding it to prime it as well. It came in the original packing from Quadratec but it has a metal dash attached to it that is 8" deep and it will not accept the original glove box lock assembly and the box door has a heavy duty piano hinge. I looked up their site and cannot find a similar item. I know I can use a cabinet type lock to close the door but my big concern is making sure the heater will fit. I see the replacement glove box doors are only 6" deep. Does anyone remember this being offered. Looking at the shipping label it was shipped in 2017.
 

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STSFCTN

Active member
Silver Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
This is picture of the new v's old dash, sorry kinda blurry but it is 201K miles on the OD.
 

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Randyzzz

Blown Budget
BENEFACTOR
Gold Member
Lifetime Member
SOA Member
City
Redmond
State
OR
Still priming and sanding but I forgot when I purchased it the previous owner had provided a new dash because my original had a few rust holes. It was edp coated and started sanding it to prime it as well. It came in the original packing from Quadratec but it has a metal dash attached to it that is 8" deep and it will not accept the original glove box lock assembly and the box door has a heavy duty piano hinge. I looked up their site and cannot find a similar item. I know I can use a cabinet type lock to close the door but my big concern is making sure the heater will fit. I see the replacement glove box doors are only 6" deep. Does anyone remember this being offered. Looking at the shipping label it was shipped in 2017.
That’s a sweet glove box! I’m having my son-in-law fabricate something similar out of aluminum currently.
 
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