- City
- Allen Park
- State
- MI
What rod ends were you using that melted? Just their 'standard' end?
My old 1981 SCRAMBLER returns 25 years later
- Thread starter jbeemer
- Start date
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
All of my links have Ballistic joints. Awesome joints, hold up great, but just can't take that much heat.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Sooooo...........The Jeep been doing good. But The last day at Windrock the t-case jumped out of low range 2 wheel drive a couple times when going down hill. My debate is to rebuild the Dana 300 since it already has the 32 spline output shafts and air shift or buy a atlas. I'm leaning towards the rebuild since I have a spare 300........and.......rebuild is $400-$500 and a Atlas is $3K.
93_Fummins
CJ-8 Member
- City
- Edmond
- State
- OK
Yes, $400-$500 and how much of your time? How much money can you make in the same amount of time it will take you to rebuild the D300? If you really consider all the variables, that $3k may be money well spent... But if you get enjoyment out of spending the time to rebuild, then that's value added.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Want for the cool factor YES
But I don't know that it would be better in the low range. The 300 is 2.69 to 1. With the 6 speed it's almost too low. Closest the atlas has is 3.0 to 1.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Time is kind of irrelevant. I'm going to be in the shop screwing around with something, might as well be this........And it is one of a couple pieces of the original Jeep yet.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Atlas 3 speed!
No room for longer than stock. The 2 speed with the short output is the same as a 300. My rear driveshaft is on the verge of binding at full droop..........with a 1350 high angle CV.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Pulled my in cab cage out today. Then I moved the drivers seat back about 3 inches. More leg room for me 
Mine plan is to either build a whole new one piece cage that covers one back seat all the way to the front. Or modify the "kid cage" I have and add to the front to cover the "cab" portion. The down side is if I want to put on the half cab I'll have to swap cage to stock roll bar.
Mine plan is to either build a whole new one piece cage that covers one back seat all the way to the front. Or modify the "kid cage" I have and add to the front to cover the "cab" portion. The down side is if I want to put on the half cab I'll have to swap cage to stock roll bar.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Working on planning and design. I'm thinking I'm going to do the upper front corners like this JK cage. I've always wedged a piece of rubber between the windshield frame and the cage to keep the proper angle with the full softtop. If I do this it'll have a adjustable rubber bumper for the windshield frame to rest on. And the curved side to side bar will make hard top install way easier.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
I had some time to work on the Jeep a bit. Took the kid cage apart, set it in the Scrambler, and started tacking in tubes.
Since you guys like pics around here. This is where I'm at so far. Still need to rework the back seat frame to one seat and frame that is bolt in. And add some tie down points for wheeling gear.
Since you guys like pics around here. This is where I'm at so far. Still need to rework the back seat frame to one seat and frame that is bolt in. And add some tie down points for wheeling gear.
Attachments
mysunnshine
Legacy Registered User
- City
- Phoenix
- State
- AZ
It looks cold outside-
- City
- Rochester
- State
- Mi
That is some serious protection
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Not much today. I did get the front part welded up. Cut the rigid 2 seat mount out of the rear section. And test fit the bolt in single seat mount. Looks like I need to move the seat back about 6 inches, But I can use the same harness bar as the front seats. Witch makes it simple to remove the seat for hauling "stuff" or putting in wheeling gear.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
Did a test fit of the cage after it was welded about 90%.......................since I ran out of welding wire!!
Since there is only one seat now. I tipped the rear hoop forward about 12 of 14 inches. and while I was at it I made a new center bar with a flat spot for Mag mount antennas. I like the lines of the new angle better, less of a "boxy" look. I added a old pic for reference.
Since there is only one seat now. I tipped the rear hoop forward about 12 of 14 inches. and while I was at it I made a new center bar with a flat spot for Mag mount antennas. I like the lines of the new angle better, less of a "boxy" look. I added a old pic for reference.
- City
- Conklin
- State
- MI
I did get the cage installed. It warped and twisted worse than any cage I've done in the past.
...........Like get out the torch, water, wet rags, and start heat shrinking warp. I got it most of the way back in shape, however There is a 3/8" under on of the rear pads.
I did remember to drill the tubes for wiring, before assembly. After several attempts at getting a wire snake through the pipes. which had three 90 degree turns, through 5/8" drilled holes. I sat back, had a beverage, and got a Idea.
I taped off all the holes except where my pull string was going in and exiting. Then I tied a few knots in the nylon string to create about a 1/4" ball. Then I stuffed the ball and a few inches in the hole. Next was the fun part. I put a blow gun in next to the string and gave it some air blast. Not Crazy, but enough it started taking string. Within about 3 seconds the string came out the exit hole. It worked so well I ran individual pull strings for each speaker and the dome light. Yes I finally have a dome light.
I also got the new GMRS antenna mounted on the light bar.
...........Like get out the torch, water, wet rags, and start heat shrinking warp. I got it most of the way back in shape, however There is a 3/8" under on of the rear pads. I did remember to drill the tubes for wiring, before assembly. After several attempts at getting a wire snake through the pipes. which had three 90 degree turns, through 5/8" drilled holes. I sat back, had a beverage, and got a Idea. I taped off all the holes except where my pull string was going in and exiting. Then I tied a few knots in the nylon string to create about a 1/4" ball. Then I stuffed the ball and a few inches in the hole. Next was the fun part. I put a blow gun in next to the string and gave it some air blast. Not Crazy, but enough it started taking string. Within about 3 seconds the string came out the exit hole. It worked so well I ran individual pull strings for each speaker and the dome light. Yes I finally have a dome light.I also got the new GMRS antenna mounted on the light bar.
