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Randyzzz Scrambler Restification Thread!

Nice, simple solution Randy. Ignoring all of the other issues, I'm jealous that you get to work on the rig that much ;) I've been a couple of months just trying to disassemble/clean/paint/reassemble my rear springs!!! :banghead:

Seems like there might be a market for those conversion plates if they'd allow you to bolt that engine to any 258 mount? Never looked at this swap so I don't know what the conversion usually involves...
 
bigwalton said:
Seems like there might be a market for those conversion plates if they'd allow you to bolt that engine to any 258 mount? Never looked at this swap so I don't know what the conversion usually involves...
Click to expand...

Thanks, Eric- yeah, the time is great, the unemployment, not.

I don't know what a 258 to LS adapter would take, although I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to figure out if I had a 6 cyl frame sitting here. These plates were pretty easy- just a lot of drilling. The MORE mounts make it pretty easy- if you are using stock Chev mounts there are a few more machining steps like countersinking 2 of the bolts. The hardest part was getting the position correct (I hope!). There are aftermarket plates available for $$, but they either move the engine another 1 1/2" forward into the radiator, or back another 1"- but those don't allow you to keep the A/C compressor. So I made mine a compromise. Once I get this all bolted up and make sure the fittment is good, I will probably offer plates for sale.

I'm going to work on the wiring for the next few days, along with the Waggy. Since selling the Unlimited this weekend, we're down to the Jeepster for a driver. My wife wants the Waggy done soon, and since the TBI 350 is already bolted in, it should be fairly easy to finish. I can post some Waggy/TBI350 pics up if anyone's interested...
 
Here's a couple of pics of the Waggy... this is the TBI350 that was originally going into the Scrambler. 700R4 trans and a 241c transfer case round out the package. Got a full house- 2 Jeeps in the garage undergoing drivetrain swaps at the same time!

***************Sorry...can't find these pictures. *******************

It was pretty cool, however....
 
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Wiring

Randy,

I spent a lot of hours reworking my wire harness. Just a thought that might save your sanity: have your stock harness "re-worked". It is a lot cheaper than a replacement harness. I think it cost around $400. What year is your motor? If it helps, you can have my manual. I don't need it now that I have a diesel.

Bill
 
Hi Bill!

Those pics you sent were great. It's probably your LS Jeep that influenced my decision to go this way. I am pretty set on doing the harness myself- I've rewired complete vehicles, a harness should be doable. Already started. My LS is from a 2004 , 5.3, flex fuel. (The flex fuel is the only thing throwing me for a loop.) If you have a manual you don't want, I'd sure appreciate it!
 
Made a major decision today. Seeing as I already passed the Christmas deadline, and seeing as I currently have more time than money, I'm going to pull the body off the frame and do it right. It may take more time, but it will be worth it. I'll get some pics up when progress is made, but my main focus is the Waggy right now. Sooner it runs, sooner I can get back on the Scrambler. So- as soon as I can get it out of the shop, off comes the Scrambler body!:D
 
Second major decision. Going to sell the NV3550 and related stuff and put in a 4l60e. My neck/shoulder injuries are seeming to dictate an automatic is the way to go. Posted it in the "For Sale" section if anyone's interested.
 
Still dealing with the "less money than time" obstacle, so I'm doing "housekeeping" projects on the Scrambler. The first on was the dash wiring. I built a new dash a couple of years ago, and just spliced the wiring into the existing harness. Then I ran all the new wires through a grommet to the new senders and speed sensor. Well, under the dash was a mess. So this week I pulled the dash, harnessed the VDO gauges, and ran all the wires that go through the firewall into the OEM bulkhead connector. There are many unused terminal openings on the bulkhead connector. Just got some factory style terminals and ran all the wires through the connector. The biggest advantage of this is I can remove the dash as a complete unit just by unplugging the bulkhead, column, wiper, taillamp, blower and stereo plugs. Here's a couple of pics...I know it still looks like a lot of wires, but you should have seen it before!

Transanddash002-1.jpg


Transanddash003-1.jpg
 
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I just supplemented my vortec swap funds with $1500, so I have enough to get me darn close to having all the parts I need. I am still having a tough time figuring out what manifolds will work with my 03 5.3 motor, and researching how some say the novak 4l60e to dana 300 adaptor will work and the other half says it works with some tranny modification. I'll keep checking back to see your progress though.

jake
 
And here I was looking forward to tackling the dash wiring.... maybe I'll put that one a little lower on the list.
 
jeepinarkansas said:
I am still having a tough time figuring out what manifolds will work with my 03 5.3 motor, and researching how some say the novak 4l60e to dana 300 adaptor will work and the other half says it works with some tranny modification. I'll keep checking back to see your progress though.

jake
Click to expand...

My research points towards Camaro manifolds for best clearance.

The 4L60E adapter requires replacement of the transmission output shaft, which requires transmission teardown. There are other ways to do it, but Novak's solution is the most sanitary. Remember- the speed sensor MUST be between the transmission and transfer case for the 4L60e to shift properly.

Are you outboarding the front? There are clearance issues with stock axles...
 
bigwalton said:
And here I was looking forward to tackling the dash wiring.... maybe I'll put that one a little lower on the list.
Click to expand...


You just need to ship it out to "RandyzzzCustoms" :D

(Those are the "after" pics...you should have seen the before...)
 
jeepinarkansas said:
I am still having a tough time figuring out what manifolds will work with my 03 5.3 motor

jake
Click to expand...

On my 04 5.3 Vortec I used LS2 Exhaust manifolds (Corvette, Camaro, Firebird)

Brand new takeoffs, with gaskets $140 deliverd (3/28/08)
from www.racepartsdirect.com (found them thru ebay)

Their part numbers from my receipt
manifolds = KLSMAN
gaskets = KGAS-LS

Hope this helps!
 
CHIEFWAHO said:
On my 04 5.3 Vortec I used LS2 Exhaust manifolds (Corvette, Camaro, Firebird)

Brand new takeoffs, with gaskets $140 deliverd (3/28/08)
from www.racepartsdirect.com (found them thru ebay)

Their part numbers from my receipt
manifolds = KLSMAN
gaskets = KGAS-LS

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

It does thank you!
 
Randyzzz said:
My research points towards Camaro manifolds for best clearance.

The 4L60E adapter requires replacement of the transmission output shaft, which requires transmission teardown. There are other ways to do it, but Novak's solution is the most sanitary. Remember- the speed sensor MUST be between the transmission and transfer case for the 4L60e to shift properly.

Are you outboarding the front? There are clearance issues with stock axles...
Click to expand...

Yeah the novak kit has the VSS sensor in there housing for that issue. As far as outboarding, I wasnt planning on it. Basically have no idea as to what it is.

Randy, I have a reworked harness coming any day in the mail. Let me know if I can snap some pictures for you.
 
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It's naked!

The tub, that is. I got finished removing pretty much everything in the tub today, with the exception of the brake pedal and booster. Now I just have to get the Waggy done so I can yank off the tub. Man, a lot of crap collects in all the nooks and crannies. I'm planning on welding up all the unused little screw holes, modifying the firewall to accept a Vintage Air heat/cool/defrost unit (for whenever I can afford it), installing LED taillights, and then doing another coat of liner on the inside. I'm also going to line the underside, and probably call in a favor and get it painted while it's all apart. I have been toying with yellow, or blue, or green....I'm leaning towards repainting the stock color now. But...that's a while off. I might stir the pot and do a poll when the time comes. :D

Here's the required pic for now.

Tub32609001-1.jpg
 
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Nice work

on those wires, slack loops 'n everything; entered NT (No Text) in title but rules is rules so you have to read this.

well, as long as I have to fill space, the waggy exhaust manifolds-- paint or some sort of sandblast/metal/ceramic/geewhiz space shuttle coating?
 
40below said:
on those wires, slack loops 'n everything; entered NT (No Text) in title but rules is rules so you have to read this.

well, as long as I have to fill space, the waggy exhaust manifolds-- paint or some sort of sandblast/metal/ceramic/geewhiz space shuttle coating?
Click to expand...

It's just some of the "high temp header paint". I have used it before, it doesn't work that great but at least it keeps the rust away. Ideally HPC or other coating would be used, but they cost $$
 
Wow Randy, after reading your entire thread, this really gives me the itch to get a Scrambler to go along with the J20...daydreaming again! You'll love the LS engine...my wife drives an 02 Tahoe everyday...great engine...just a little noisy at startup...don't be alarmed, that's one of their few quirks! Looking forward to your updates...and some under-tub & frame pics when you get it pulled! ;)
 
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