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Rusty Floor Panel and No Welder

L

LBJeeper

New member
City
Long Beach
State
CA
When I went to remove the full roll cage out of my 82, I found that theres a big hole in the passenger side. Thankfully I never rolled or the cage would have poked through. Anyway, I've purchased a new panel from Quadratec but I have no welder or any welding skills whatsoever. How much would a shop charge to weld a new one in? I have a few other rusty spots that could use some new sheet metal, so I might take advantage and get those changed too.
 
If paying a shop to weld them in. Do as much prep work to save money. A cheap welder might not cost much more than a shop would charge. Find some scrap metal a pratice if you have a place to work. Find an old washing machine/dryer and use the sides to practice welding on.
 
I was in a similar situation when getting my cage made. Needed the driver floor pan replaced before the cage could happen. I drop shipped a panel to the shop and they got it in but it isn’t done any better than I could have managed with some practice with my welder.

worth getting a quote (as long as they see the issue in person, don’t just call and ask sight unseen) but I have to think you’ll end up well more than the cost of a welder that will get this done.

I’m about to start the same thing in multiple places on mine without any prior experience with sheet metal work. Intimidating as hell, but it’s got to be done :shrug:
 
I am in the same situation myself with the driver's side floor board. Not a big repair, but just enough that I haven't figured out how best to proceed. Looking forward to learning how you both make out with your repairs.
 
go get you some 18 ga sheet, clean it up and practice, practice, practice. Just be very mindful of the heat so as not to warp the panel.
 
1” weld at most, then skip 12”, 1” more weld, skip 12”.... go back after first weld cooled and add 1” weld ... keep going till all welded up.

But first, run some test beads.

There are some good (and cheap) Chinese inverter welders on the market. I bought an ahp alphatig 201 for under $700 and I like it for what it is. They also make a mig, but it is being sold by eastwood and ahp won’t sell them direct. I don’t have personal experience with them, but some claim the harbor freight inverter welders are decent too. But their prices are near the other Chinese inverter welders. I’m not a huge fan of flux core mig, but that is really the cheapest way to get started. The gas shielded mig costs more due to the bottle, regulator, and gas, but I think produces a cleaner weld.

If interested in learning, surf weldingweb.com They will point you in the right direction on how to get started.

Also, most community colleges have leisure learning welding classes. I took one with my wife almost 20 years ago and enjoyed it. They did a good job teaching the basic fundamentals. After that class you would be more than able to weld in new floors.
 
Awhile back I cut out a big section of the driver side floor, fit the new replacement panel, and took to to a local muffler shop and had them weld it in along with all the other cracks that needed welding. That might be a less expensive option for you.
 
When yall cut out the old metal for a floorpan, do you leave a hole smaller than the replacement panel and overlap the edges, or do you try to make the panel fit perfectly in the hole? Looks like the overlap would be sturdier, but the overlapped edges would give a spot on the underside to trap dirt and moisture, possibly creating a problem in the future.
 
If doing the overlap method, you can use panel adhesive and get a very sturdy repair that does not trap moisture/dirt. (No welder needed)

3M Panel Adhesive

If welding in with the overlap method, seam sealer is suggested.
 
3m also has a Structural panel adhesive that works well. Did patch repairs on 2 work trucks.
 

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One of the good by products is what ag4ever said. If you lay the patch 1/2" or so over lap, and make sure the surfaces are covered with the adhesive (brush the adhesive over the lips on both sides) you have a water proof/rust proof seal. Seam sealer can always fail in time. Especially on the inter side that you can't reach.
 
All- I haven’t posted here in a few years (and glad to see some familiar faces), but I’m updating a thread of mine with this specific topic. Fire away with questions if you’d like! I’ve put in 2 floorpans from Key Parts and they’re turning out nice. Butt welded them both.
 
Wow thank you so much for all the replies. I think I'm going to end up welding the thing myself. It'll be good experience for a future truss on the Model 20.
 

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If I was keeping my 20, that is the one I'd buy. Still might get it for a different project.
 
Pman said:
All- I haven’t posted here in a few years (and glad to see some familiar faces), but I’m updating a thread of mine with this specific topic. Fire away with questions if you’d like! I’ve put in 2 floorpans from Key Parts and they’re turning out nice. Butt welded them both.
Click to expand...
Pics pics pics!
 
jammer1 said:
3m also has a Structural panel adhesive that works well. Did patch repairs on 2 work trucks.
Click to expand...

The next floors or sides I do for a Jeep that deserves less than full restore I am going to flange the sheet metal, panel bond and leave the edge on the inside/underside. So much quicker and probable stronger.
 
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