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Scout the Scrambler

ag4ever

Average Nut
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
I suggest welding a large nut to the roll bar bolts. The heat breaks the rust loose, and the large nut gives a better surface to grab.

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jc_chandler

Active member
Member
City
Denver
State
CO
She's free! My little hoist setup worked well, however I'm definitely going to replace the 2x4 with a steel c-channel or something similar. Next up is stripping down both sets of doors and then everything is off to the blaster.

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jc_chandler

Active member
Member
City
Denver
State
CO
While all of the metal is at the blaster I decided to take a pass at the top. It was in rough shape from a life on the farm (multiple layers of paint, some pretty heavy gouges, and a few random holes. I sanded off the old paint, filled the gouges and holes with fiberglass filler, sanded, sprayed a sandable primer, sanded some more, then finished with a couple of coats of semi-gloss enamel. It's definitely not 100% perfect but from 5 feet it looks miles better than before (and at a fraction of the cost of a gr8tops replacement). I've never done fiberglass work and I honestly hope I never have to again.
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jc_chandler

Active member
Member
City
Denver
State
CO
Back from the blaster, no major surprises other than this cement-like seam sealer looking stuff on the inside of the firewall that was applied by a blind person with a brush three sizes too big. Is that from the factory? Should I heat/grind it out?
 

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Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
Yes that is factory, just like mine, only I have original silver still on it.
 

Belizeit

CJ-8 Member
Gold Member
City
River Ridge
State
La
Once it is cracked or opened up to weather and water behind there, then rust and trouble can happen in there over time. Under the rollbar can be the most troublesome area.
 

ag4ever

Average Nut
Silver Member
Lifetime Member
City
Richmond
State
TX
Once it is cracked or opened up to weather and water behind there, then rust and trouble can happen in there over time. Under the rollbar can be the most troublesome area.

Once rust starts behind it, it pops right off.
 

STSFCTN

Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
Back from the blaster, no major surprises other than this cement-like seam sealer looking stuff on the inside of the firewall that was applied by a blind person with a brush three sizes too big. Is that from the factory? Should I heat/grind it out?
What did it cost you to get all of that blasted?
 

STSFCTN

Member
City
Centennial
State
CO
What primer are you going to use? Are you going the POR15 / rust encapsulator route? I blasted the bottom of my tub and my next step is to blast the inside of the tub and will go with the por15 since I have used it before on my Tacoma's frame.
 

jc_chandler

Active member
Member
City
Denver
State
CO
What primer are you going to use? Are you going the POR15 / rust encapsulator route? I blasted the bottom of my tub and my next step is to blast the inside of the tub and will go with the por15 since I have used it before on my Tacoma's frame.

I haven't fully decided yet but I'm leaning towards a wipe-down with Ospho, then Eastwood's 2k epoxy primer over everything, followed by their 2k chassis black on the frame and undercarriage. I'll probably also use their internal frame coating inside the frame and the body supports.
 

jc_chandler

Active member
Member
City
Denver
State
CO
Slowly working through the metalwork. So far I've replaced the rollbar support panels, welded up the dozen or so small holes the PO drilled for unknown reasons, installed seatbelt bosses following @Randyzzz 's excellent tutorial, cut tach and clock holes in the dash, and enlarged the blower motor hole in the firewal for the chevy swap.I also tore down the axles and sandblasted, replacement parts are on their way. Next up I'll be tackling the fixing and reinforcing of the doors along with a few cracks and dents in the fenders. The grille and hood are both tip top but the bulkhead is in rough shape (rusted out bottom mounting flange and a lot of dents). Not sure if I'll try and fix or source a new one, maybe the gr8tops fiberglass one.

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jc_chandler

Active member
Member
City
Denver
State
CO
Buttoning up the axles now that the temps are back in the double digits. I had a local guy do the TrueTrac install in the rear and install the ubolt yolks with new seals in both. Today I finished getting the one piece shafts set up along with the TSM disc brake kit in the rear. I was worried the disc kit wouldn't allow for the oem wagon wheels but there's about a quarter inch of clearance. Very relieved. I also put new ujoints, ball joints, spindles, hubs and brakes in the front, mostly wrapped up, just ran out of lock nuts and needed a beer. The TDK frame should show up within the next week along with the BDS YJ suspension kit.

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jc_chandler

Active member
Member
City
Denver
State
CO
Look what I found! $300 for the set. :woohoo: The passenger and rear are in near perfect condition, just dusty, even the carpet parts are pristine. The driver has the usual few cracks/tears, not sure if repairable. Came out of an 87 YJ Laredo. And I got bluebird Colorado views on the drive down to pick them up.

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