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Someone called it a TJ 6

Trying to get the A/C charged up and working. No luck, all the A/C hoses I made are leaking so taking it a part and having hoses made. I guess I missed some thing in making them seemed simple enough.
 
I'm so glad this build popped back up! I didn't put 2 and 2 together till just now when I actually looked at the link in your sig! Almost the exact way I was planing to stretch my TJ. What did you end up at for WB? I'm looking to end up around 110-114, pending how everything lines up with the firewall.
 
neilconnolly79 said:
I'm so glad this build popped back up! I didn't put 2 and 2 together till just now when I actually looked at the link in your sig! Almost the exact way I was planing to stretch my TJ. What did you end up at for WB? I'm looking to end up around 110-114, pending how everything lines up with the firewall.
[/QUOTE.

I only stretched mine to 101 1/2 inch wheel basse what the original CJ 6 was. I ended up with the back edge of the body hanging over by a 1/2" to give fire wall just a bit more clearance.

I used the later model fenders hood grill. Lucked out that they lined up with the TJ frames grill mounting on the frame, didn't need to modify it.
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Kinda of a quick up date on this. Been taking it on short drives and trying to work out bugs. There have been a few. Thought I had the cooling figure out took a longer drive and it was getting hot again. Figured that out, to small of a circuit breaker for the fan it was shutting off took out the breaker installed the proper value fuse instead. Took it to a shop to get the A/C system charged. I installed the system myself from parts from Jeep Air. Bought a crimping tool made my own hoses. First time at that and all but one leaked. So off the hose shop, had them make me new ones. Charged the system, it worked. In the process of changing the system we started and stopped the engine several times through out the day then all of a sudden it would not start. I had no idea why. The mechanic and chased that for half a day trouble shooting guide from Howell sent us to a couple of different parts to change no luck. He was out of ideas. Called Howell they said check for voltage drop at the injectors of the throttle body, if it drops below 11 volts it is a power issue feeding the ignition system. Found that was the case. Thought about that for a while and checked the fuses to the system. Found a fuse that tested good with the ohm meter but on close examination with bright light you could see that it had burned. Must have fused back together to make continuity but not carry the current needed. Replaced the fuse and it started again. Drove around parked and tried to start. Wouldn't start check fuse again it had blown. Replace with a stepped up current rating and so far it is working good again. Drove it home about half way home the NEW (rebuilt) A/C compressor siezed up burned up the belt, Made it home got another compressor under warranty have changed it out now to the the A/C shop for service again. My Speed Hut oil gauge quilt. Hooked up a mechanical gauge and have oil pressure. Have to trouble shoot that still. BUT when it is on the road it drives pretty nice.
 
Took the CJ6 to the AC shop they have had it for a week and a second compressor failed we are tying to find out why. Talked to a lot of people about why. Gave up on the "New Compressors" and flushed out the old orginal one that was on the motor. One of the experts said we were not putting in enough Freon resulting in low pressure (Kit book said 15lbs.) He said at just 15 it would not carry the oil through the system, need to up the pressure. He recommended 30 but the guys in the shop tried that and the high pressure be came to high so the went down to 25 and the high settled down. Every thing was cooling good they let it run for and hour and every thing worked. Ran it another hour the next day still good. Picked it up this morning and drove it home stopping for and errand or two and everything worked fine so maybe we have finally have it figured out and done! I now have 99.6 miles on it. We have a local Jeep show tonight I am going to take it down and show it off. The local Jeep Club, Cliffhangers sponsors a week long event here in Farmington NM and most years end with W.E. Rock having there finals just out of town.
 
Looks like it is in the ignition switch, jumped the solenoid and it started. I had issues getting the steering column switch set when installing, looks like a revisit is at hand.
 
jammer1 said:
If it's just misadjusted, that will be a cheaper fix.
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Yep I may try and loosen it up and see what i can do with it. But it will be a while of on another vacation so it has to wait.
 
Odd timing, but I have a friend with a 454 in his Scout. Apparently its common for the solenoid to overheat and cause extra resistance that the start signal from the key is unable to overpower. With the Scout we were able to jump the solenoid and get it to start as well. He bought a kit that switched to an external Ford style remote solenoid and hasn't had the issue since. Something to think about before you pull your column/ignition switch.

With his the symptoms were that it would start fine every time when cold/cool. After a longer drive and shutdown when hot it wouldn't restart. If you let it sit for a while and cool off it would magically restart.
 
sdsupilot said:
Odd timing, but I have a friend with a 454 in his Scout. Apparently its common for the solenoid to overheat and cause extra resistance that the start signal from the key is unable to overpower. With the Scout we were able to jump the solenoid and get it to start as well. He bought a kit that switched to an external Ford style remote solenoid and hasn't had the issue since. Something to think about before you pull your column/ignition switch.

With his the symptoms were that it would start fine every time when cold/cool. After a longer drive and shutdown when hot it wouldn't restart. If you let it sit for a while and cool off it would magically restart.
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I have let it sit for a few days and no change I am going to have go looking.
 
Finally got some time to mess with the CJ6 without having to run off for something else. Messed with the switch started once then not again. Took the switch off and plugged every thing back in and actuated it by hand Jeep started. Put it back on wasn't set right not in sync with the key position, took it off reset it to right place and tried again every thing seemed correct with the key activating like it should but not turning over. Back to the drawing board (now remember I am not a pro mechanic). Thinking to my self why is it, I have checked every pin on the switch with meter and it should be working. Then it hit me. I don't have a boot over the floor shifter and the neutral safety switch is there, 12V to the starter goes through it, so I put my meter on the switch and tried it again and low and behold there was 12v there. Then it hit me like a hammer I have been barking up the wrong tree. Went down to my favorite independent auto supply shop and ask for a starter solenoid. He looked it up and told me he could get me a new starter and solenoid for what it cost to get just a solenoid. I said you are kidding, he said no! The solenoid listed for $90.00 the starter combo was only $50.00 so took the new starter and solenoid and ran. Installed it, turn the key and it cranked over. YEA......it did not start. Ok why did it not start. Check voltage to the coil none! Started digging through paper work where does the 12V come from. The starter switch, to the fuse block, to the coil. OK fuse block, check it. While building this Jeep I added a piggy back fuse holder to power something else and messing with everything under the dash I had pulled this out of the fuse holder, it had been plugged into the coil position, plugged it in, hit the starter the rest is history now.

Just a reminder check the easiest thing to replace first!
 
Before the starter issue I had been driving it and the brakes were not quite right. So after I got it going again I took to the shop I had got the power booster from (Navajo Brake Booster/ OffAgain) to have them look at it and check the brakes. They gave me the rod for the brake pedal and set the distance so I figured I would let them figure it out. Told I was not in a hurry so they have been taking their time. I check in once in a while. But they have not found the final solution yet. The rod and setting was wrong when I put it in. They pulled the booster and figured that out but being I had been driving it they said that they were not going to take a change with that master cylinder so they ordered a replacement and installed a new one. They pressure bled the system test drove it not happy still looking for and issue. The pedal feels good when you drive it but after coming back and letting is sit the pedal goes away again Sooooo................
 
Got my CJ6 back from the shop they found the elusive, unusual, problem. And the mechanic had a good laugh. The issue with master cylinder was necessary and everyone was perplexed when it didn't solve the problem. They decided to isolate the front and just test the back. Every thing worked fine. So they reversed the block and isolated the back and found the problem was in the front. They pulled the wheels and the mechanic spot the issue right away with a chuckle he said the brake pads are on the wrong sides of the rotor. The caliper pad was switch with other pad. Guess who didn't know better when he put them in............. me! Got them in right and a miracle happen the brakes work!!!.
Now on to the next gremlem that pops up.
.....
 
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