spankrjs's Biloxi, MS '83 Scrambler

[spankrjs]

Is a half nut a different thing in the States?. i meant one of these, looked like there was room for one on your photo and made for the job.
Let me get out of the way now and you can carry on the way you were, you seem to be managing fine without me.

No worries LOL

I see, when you say "1/2 nut", it means "thin/low profile/jamb" nut". Gotcha, that might have fit back there, but the OD would make it tight, and be a pain to hold in place while threading the idler pulley/bolt through the plate, and then into it. But, could be a solution


Regarding "half nut", me and John were referring to this LOL

https://www.cj-8.com/threads/my-newest-project-me.47417/


I ordered a M12x1.75 allen head cap screws from McMaster-Carr yesterday, should be here today

I couldn't remember the length I needed, so I ordered them 100mm long, thank God for the Dremel!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Belizeit]

Now I understand what you ment by 1/2 nut. I have no idea what the correct name is, but I always just referred to them as thin nut.

 

[spankrjs]

Finally finished my idler pulley modification.

My 12mmx1.75 Allen Head bolts got here, and my thin/low profile nuts fro the timing chain cover studs:



The Allen Heads give a bit more clearance than a hex head, not much. Looking down, you can see the hex points sticking out beyond the round allen head bolt's head:



Big problem with the allen head bolts: the head is way thicker than a hex head or hex nut:





The thin jamb nuts worked perfectly on the timing chain studs to secure my idler pulley mounting plate:




More clearance around bolt threads then originally thought:



Unmodified allen head bolt head fouls on the timing chain cover:




Added a third washer between the idler pulley mounting plate and the timing chain cover, allen head bolt's head still fouls, but better. Still have full thread engagement into the block with 3 washers on the studs, but do not want to space them out any further:



Tried this next, regular bolt with flange nut on the back:

 

[spankrjs]

The flange nut fouls on the timing chain cover, too:



No worries. I had to break out the grinder to cut down the length of the allen head bolts, so I have the technology to reduce the head height of the allen head bolts, too:



Initial trim:



Much better, the head barely touches the timing chain cover:





Good belt/pulley alignement:



So, I ground down the head a little bit more, hit both modified ends with some paint:





The finished product, finally:



Just what I wanted. A bunch of extra work. IF I would have offset the idler pulley bolt hole down from center a couple more millimeters, none of this would have been necessary. Live and learn, but what I have now works. Bolt threads into the plate from the back, bolt head bears on rear of plate, lock nut on front of plate, thread locker at idler bolt to plate threads. I am not worried about this bolt working loose LOL.

 

[spankrjs]

No worries about the allen head bolt's head rubbing a hole through the timing chain cover, plenty of clearance:







Good belt/pulley alignment:




Added some tension where I thought it needed it:



Still clearance between AC clutch pulley and "tensioner" pulley:



Drove around about 4 hours this weekend with AC on. No AC belt squealing, or hot fuel issues. So, very happy about that.

I need to add carpet to keep some of the heat from the hot floor boards from migrating into the cab while the windows are up and the AC is on. Other then that, pretty happy with everything.



And find a new front cross member cover.

That's it for now