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What's on your Work Bench?

Have an oil furnace to install... Eventually


 
Bad Karma said:
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I still have to build a workbench. But i have to finish the inside of the new shop first!
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What a view! Cant say I am not a little envious...

Nice job and I am sure you will fill it up sooner than later with toys.
 
Nice Job on the shop. My suggestions:
1 Finish the inside.
2 Seal the floor if you haven't.
3 Lights: either T-5 or T-8 check picture. I have 60 4ft tubes in mine and they don't burn much electricity.

I could kick my own butt for not sealing my floors BEFORE I did anything else. Also, it's to late now but every garage/shop should have a floor drain in at least one bay.
 

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I'll second the finish the inside.
Once you pile stuff in there, you can't do anything.
My ceiling is still half insulated because of that.
It is now I don't have the time to push it all outside to do it and then sheetrock it... I will get there eventually, but if I did it years ago, it would have been so much easier.

cb
 
Also wire in like 100 outlets...everywhere and anywhere, both 110 and 220... just in case.

cb
 
Last yr started the t5 fixtures. This yr I installed the last 2. What a difference over the t8 bulbs, the 5000k bulbs give off twice the light as the t8's. EBay has a guy selling them. I even built 3 light stands to do body work or throw a lot of light when doing brakes,etc.
 
As you can see my floor needs a lot of help. Wish I would have seale it before anything else.
 

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Utility station like this can help. Water, air, electricity and pressure washer.
 

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I also prefer the metal sheeting on the inside instead of dry wall. I can just wash it with a pressure washer. But I don't live in the frozen North.
But wood is a better insulator than metal.
 
Magic Mike,
I am also jealous. That looks awesome. My father-in-law stated mine was too small when I built it & he was right, I hope that will not b the case with you. I will also concur on finishing the interior as the insulation & Sheetrock made a huge difference.
 
zr10054 said:
Nice Job on the shop. My suggestions:
1 Finish the inside.
2 Seal the floor if you haven't.
3 Lights: either T-5 or T-8 check picture. I have 60 4ft tubes in mine and they don't burn much electricity.

I could kick my own butt for not sealing my floors BEFORE I did anything else. Also, it's to late now but every garage/shop should have a floor drain in at least one bay.
Click to expand...

Yes, I love my bay with the tapered floor and drain. It's also heated and has both hot/cold water and a big ventilation fan. I can keep my wife's vehicle clean all year round.
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Back to the bench. I think Santa is bring the missing link to the bar and chain

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cb
Sent from the garage
 
The bench is getting better. To the right of the bench is my New Years resolution
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All good ideas and suggestions: water,floor drain, super good, electric outlets, insulation and metal siding. Since you were at my shop at Silver Lake I changed over to 4 foot LED shop lights. unbelivible difference. :wave:
 
MrBeep said:
All good ideas and suggestions: water,floor drain, super good, electric outlets, insulation and metal siding. Since you were at my shop at Silver Lake I changed over to 4 foot LED shop lights. unbelivible difference. :wave:
Click to expand...

Great point on the LED's.
They are the future. Not only are they more energy efficient than fluorescent or HID, but at the higher mounting height the maintenance savings is a huge factor.
Here is an example of some of the benefits for low bay/high bay lighting use.

"Cree said the product is comparable to 400W MH fixtures or six-lamp T5/HO or T8 fluorescent fixtures. Dixon said that the LED lamps can even be spaced at 1.4 times the density of standard 400W MH fixtures in new construction or in cases where a building owner wanted to minimize fixture count.
To illustrate the capabilities of the product, Cree provided two prototypical comparative scenarios each involving 15 fixtures. In both cases the scenario included a 28-ft ceiling, but in one instance the target was 50–60 fc and in the other the target was 20–30 fc. That resulted in 20×17-ft and 30×30-ft spacing respectively. Cree compared the 230W CXB against 400W MH, 400W pulse-start MH, 361W T5/HO, and 222W T8 fixtures. Note that the actual power consumption on the MH fixtures with a ballast is in the 450W to 455W range.
The CXB fixture delivers 56.1 and 24.02 fc in the two target scenarios. That performance is better than the standard MH fixtures and within 2–6 fc of the pulse-start MH and T5 fixtures. The T8 fixture can't meet the minimum fc requirements.
Cree followed up the photometric comparison with a ten-year financial analysis of such a 15-fixture installation. In the MH case, a building owner would need to replace 34 lamps over ten years, incurring $1500 in lamps and labor cost and the inconvenience of disturbing workflow. The LED fixtures would deliver $19,000 in annual energy savings based on 12 hours of use per day and the national average of $0.11/kWh in electrical cost. Cree says that payback occurs in three years. A similar comparison against T5/HO fixtures results in a four-year payback.
While Cree makes a compelling case that the CXB fixture delivers price and performance that makes LEDs competitive with incumbent technologies, the company did not compare the product directly to other LED high-bay products that use different form factors. Many such LED high-bay luminaires use a rectangular form factor and presumably spread the beam far more effectively than the reflector that's designed for an MH lamp."

Again just an example but the point is, on new construction this would require less expense on installation time, materials, and circuits needed.
 
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