'Mater - '77 Cherokee S 4-door
- Thread starter bigwalton
- Start date
- City
- Bedford
- State
- NH
I did those yesterday and found that my electric pump was putting out a bunch more than the 5.5-6 psi that the Edelbrock wants. Reconnected everything and it fired right up. Went for a drive to get gas and no issues. Here's to hoping that this has it set for a while. Got to find somewhere to drive it today
I just went through the same thing with the 360 I have... a couple of broken spark plug wire ends, new plugs, cleaned up the cap and rotor contacts, and a new pressure regulator that gives it that magical 5.5-6 lbs and it fires up without pumping the pedal continuously and runs oh so smooth now... before it was hit or miss, now it is begging to go for a hard ride each time I start it up!
cb
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
It quit starting on me again yesterday, at least now I knew it was definitely an ignition problem and saw a nice 5.5 psi confirmed via the gauge.
Tried a spare spark plug grounded to the block and was getting no sparky love. Hooked a jumper wire from batt + to HEI, fired right up.
Went under the dash and tried to cram the connectors back on the ignition switch as hard as I could. Swapped HEI power feed back on and tried again... fired right up. Went to get coffee.
I can juggle the key all I want while it's running and there's no hiccups, so I really don't think it's the ignition switch itself, but I was planning on ordering one today anyway just to be sure.
Anyone know if you have to drop the column to get the switch out? If not, I'll pull it out to check the terminal condition, maybe there's some corrosion or something causing this grief.
Tried a spare spark plug grounded to the block and was getting no sparky love. Hooked a jumper wire from batt + to HEI, fired right up.
Went under the dash and tried to cram the connectors back on the ignition switch as hard as I could. Swapped HEI power feed back on and tried again... fired right up. Went to get coffee.
I can juggle the key all I want while it's running and there's no hiccups, so I really don't think it's the ignition switch itself, but I was planning on ordering one today anyway just to be sure.
Anyone know if you have to drop the column to get the switch out? If not, I'll pull it out to check the terminal condition, maybe there's some corrosion or something causing this grief.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Looking good
But, I want to see some "action pictures"
Gracias, but action pics of the Jeep, golf or fishing?
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
The jeep
Kind of funny, yours wont stay running, my Tan Scrambler wont shut off, trade you
- City
- stafford
- State
- va
I haven't had time to check a wiring schematic to find out what this is, but I believe it is a breaker
Bottom right corner of pic
Before I started the tear down for this rebuild, I was having problems with it starting sometimes and sometimes not
I was actually going to drive it to the meet and greet two years ago and it wouldn't start
Not having problems with it now, but I did do some repairs to the wires leaving the starter relay
A bad connection could cause high amperage, opening the breaker, and possibly that black wire goes to the ignition??
Bottom right corner of pic
Before I started the tear down for this rebuild, I was having problems with it starting sometimes and sometimes not
I was actually going to drive it to the meet and greet two years ago and it wouldn't start
Not having problems with it now, but I did do some repairs to the wires leaving the starter relay
A bad connection could cause high amperage, opening the breaker, and possibly that black wire goes to the ignition??
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
I don't have any breakers that I'm aware of between the ignition and the HEI, but a bad one definitely could do it.
Just today at lunch, I replaced the ignition switch (what I thought was the ignition switch was actually the reverse light/neutral safety swtich) Not sure why having played with the wires at the NSS/brake switch would have allowed it to start, maybe it was unrelated and I just got lucky
Great news is that I HAVE WIPERS and ACC POWER NOW!!!
It did start up, after a couple tries when I finally tried giving it some gas pedal. Need to put the dash back together before I can drive it and it also looks like my plugging job at the outlet for the aux gas tank has failed. Last time I went down the driveway I left a trail of gas
, pulled back in and parked it until I can fight this stupid aux tank again 
I'm one step away from pulling the tank and finding a stock filler neck to just go back to the main tank. 
I need a fuel-proof "hose cap" that's a solid, molded piece of material that has an ID that matches the OD of the outlet. For the life of me I can't find one anywhere!!! I'll buy a 12-pack of beer for anyone that can point me in the right direction!
Just today at lunch, I replaced the ignition switch (what I thought was the ignition switch was actually the reverse light/neutral safety swtich) Not sure why having played with the wires at the NSS/brake switch would have allowed it to start, maybe it was unrelated and I just got lucky
Great news is that I HAVE WIPERS and ACC POWER NOW!!!
It did start up, after a couple tries when I finally tried giving it some gas pedal. Need to put the dash back together before I can drive it and it also looks like my plugging job at the outlet for the aux gas tank has failed. Last time I went down the driveway I left a trail of gas
, pulled back in and parked it until I can fight this stupid aux tank again I'm one step away from pulling the tank and finding a stock filler neck to just go back to the main tank. I need a fuel-proof "hose cap" that's a solid, molded piece of material that has an ID that matches the OD of the outlet. For the life of me I can't find one anywhere!!! I'll buy a 12-pack of beer for anyone that can point me in the right direction!
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
No, completely random thing I need to make my setup work. Something an industrial supply joint might have or something like that.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Actually, I figured out what the problem was on the gas leak this morning before work and it's not at all what I thought. My plug setups on the aux tank outlet and stock tank inlet are still holding fine, it's the rubber return line on the stock tank at the top on the rear end of the tank. It has cracked through.
The little bit of gas I left in that tank (just as a last resort if I should run the aux tank dry or something goes wrong with the aux tank) is enough that when I back down our driveway, it sloshes to the back of the tank and comes out the crack.
Easy enough to fix, but I got this
notion to go ahead and do my idea to:
1. Splice a 2-way brass Y-valve into the stock tank return line right at the tank.
2. Run one side of the valve to the tank return line
3. Run the other side of the valve to my spare fuel pump and from there run a "pickup line" with a cutoff valve in it.
This would allow me to fill the stock tank through the spare fuel pump from the pickup line with jerry cans (with two valves between it and the outside world) if I ever wanted to run long distance and use both tanks. Nothing appeared wrong with the stock tank, I just didn't like the uncontrolled setup with the overflow method to fill it from the aux tank
I'll probably whimp out and just replace the cracked line to get it running, but it brought the "long-range" setup thought back to mind.
The little bit of gas I left in that tank (just as a last resort if I should run the aux tank dry or something goes wrong with the aux tank) is enough that when I back down our driveway, it sloshes to the back of the tank and comes out the crack.
Easy enough to fix, but I got this
notion to go ahead and do my idea to:1. Splice a 2-way brass Y-valve into the stock tank return line right at the tank.
2. Run one side of the valve to the tank return line
3. Run the other side of the valve to my spare fuel pump and from there run a "pickup line" with a cutoff valve in it.
This would allow me to fill the stock tank through the spare fuel pump from the pickup line with jerry cans (with two valves between it and the outside world) if I ever wanted to run long distance and use both tanks. Nothing appeared wrong with the stock tank, I just didn't like the uncontrolled setup with the overflow method to fill it from the aux tank
I'll probably whimp out and just replace the cracked line to get it running, but it brought the "long-range" setup thought back to mind.
- City
- Cincinnati
- State
- Oh
Any luck? Anything I can help you locate?
I still have the nice original tank here for you if you need it.
I have a nice, original tank for you, too, but you gotta take the rest of the Waggy along with it.
Back to topic, you may not have any breakers up there, but you Should have a couple fusible links.
- City
- Cincinnati
- State
- Oh
The jeep
Kind of funny, yours wont stay running, my Tan Scrambler wont shut off, trade you
Hijack - You haven't upgraded the alternator, have you?
- City
- Biloxi
- State
- MS
- City
- Cincinnati
- State
- Oh
Nope, mine was simple, I wired the factory coil/ICM wire straight to the battery
Well, at least it should keep you warm this winter.
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Back on topic
The leaking line was the vent line, not the return, have it fixed for the time being, what I really need to do is rework the tank vents entirely, but I tested things and no more leak.
This was the first test drive out of the neighborhood with the new ignition switch and I'd swear the engine is running much stronger. Is it possible that the ignition switch hurt the voltage to the Mallory HEI to the point that it degraded performance? I was also having that random cutting out issue, maybe that was when the voltage dropped way too low? Here's to hoping this is the fix!
The leaking line was the vent line, not the return, have it fixed for the time being, what I really need to do is rework the tank vents entirely, but I tested things and no more leak.
This was the first test drive out of the neighborhood with the new ignition switch and I'd swear the engine is running much stronger. Is it possible that the ignition switch hurt the voltage to the Mallory HEI to the point that it degraded performance? I was also having that random cutting out issue, maybe that was when the voltage dropped way too low? Here's to hoping this is the fix!
- City
- Dexter
- State
- MI
Should say that I checked the voltage to the HEI at idle many times during troubleshooting things and it was fine, maybe it heated up over time as current was pulled through it?
Anyone ever seen a relay setup to feed the HEI? Relay in a feed straight off the battery/alt, would ensure a clean power source regardless.
Anyone ever seen a relay setup to feed the HEI? Relay in a feed straight off the battery/alt, would ensure a clean power source regardless.